New studio

Dont go crazy with little details. Use your common sense. The stops, are for holding the glass in place, you can use whatever you want as long as its secured to the frame.. if you need to cut the rockwool, then do it In my case, I didnt use rubber for the glass, I just caulked it over my frame and I got excelent results (120w guitar amp cranked to maximun, I couldnt hear anything from the other side) So, like I said, as long as you understands the basics, make it work About the glass, you need LAMINATED GLASS, I guess its available by the same name everywhere in the world (hint: Laminated glass is often used on Cars), if you smash it with a hammer, it wont break up in peaces, it wil hold the crack by the laminated layers thats inside

Thanks jbassino. I ll jump & make it.

Laminated glass is therefor also known as Safetyglass. the way to install glass; - Add a rubber or foam strip all round the frame - add 2 windows setting blocks at 1/4 from the side on the bottom part of the frame to put the glass on. - add glassstops, thick/storng enough to keep the glass in place. add rubber/foam on the inside (where the glass will be) also. - Leave a gap (about 6mm in depth and 4mm in width) above this rubber/foam strip to caulk the window (use sealant for glass) - paint if you like Laminated glass is the way to go.

Thanks very much Ro . If I put glassstops (in the inside) 2cm high do you think I need something like 4cmx 2cm wood glassstops or just 2cmx2cm ? I have a small window between voice & studio 58cmx58cm high. between cr & voice that s 116cmx 55high between cr & studio 116cm x 74high with laninated glass of 10mm & 12mm still don t know the weight & $.

garlo wrote:

If I put glassstops (in the inside) 2cm high do you think I need something like 4cmx 2cm wood glassstops or just 2cmx2cm ?

It kinda depends if your pane is angled or not. But a 2x2 will do. tho, you might (for better looks) make it wider, as wide as your frame. If your window sill is 10cm and your glasspane (say 1cm thick) sits at 2 cm from the outside, you'll have 7cm left on the inside to put a glassstop on. It'll cover the whole frame. Makes a better finish (get it?) If you have angled glass you'd better put a strong stop at the top. (secure it tight)

I have a small window between voice & studio 58cmx58cm high. between cr & voice that s 116cmx 55high between cr & studio 116cm x 74high with laninated glass of 10mm & 12mm still don t know the weight & $.

Glass weights about 2500 kg/m3 (roughly)... So, A piece of 116x55x1 (cm) will have a mass of about 16kg. Where I live, you'll pay about 150-200 euros for one piece.

"Laminated glass is therefor also known as Safetyglass." In vertical building, it goes by "missile grade".

Thanks Ro & Xspace. Can t get prices for laminated glass before end of August. Every retailers are closed in August. Looks like in Bordeaux I m the only one working, others are on the beaches lookin at the peaches ! ---- Ro Do I need to put rockwool between the windows stops inside ? If so maybe I can go with 2X2cm window stops to have more rockwool inside ? Don t sure 2cm of rockwool will do somethin but ? If not ok I can go with 2x7cm & if so I leave the space between the 2 structures empty ? ---- Can t go further on the windows so I begun the wood walls at the back of the CR with oak & merbau I found on sales

garlo wrote:

Can t get prices for laminated glass before end of August. Every retailers are closed in August. Looks like in Bordeaux I m the only one working, others are on the beaches lookin at the peaches !

don't you hate that!

Ro Do I need to put rockwool between the windows stops inside ?

Not sure what you mean

If so maybe I can go with 2X2cm window stops to have more rockwool inside ? Don t sure 2cm of rockwool will do somethin but ?

If you have a double studd wall (seperated leafs) then you have to make sure you have disconnected windowframes as well. It's just a piece of the wall actually, no need to stuff extra wool there. Here's an recent post by Jester with a picture of his frame. Check it. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1929&p=93047

If not ok I can go with 2x7cm & if so I leave the space between the 2 structures empty ?

Yes, leave a space between (disconnected) leaves. Again, your window is just a part of the wall. It's special because you can look right through. Nothing more, nothing less.

Thanks Ro for explanations & links. very useful.

I v worked on the left wood wall of the CR. & begun left bass trap. I use the loud speaker stands of the ancient studio, very heavy steel stands full of sand, I take the rollers out & put one in the future bass trap. For bass traps I will search for a solution where you can easily take off the front fabric so you can easily change loudspeakers . Just in case.

working on bass traps

Bass traps ready for loud speakers & fabrics, but first I need my doors & windows. Next step is the back wood wall of the CR.

Hi...hey I was wondering if you could take a few minutes and explain the method behind what it is you are doing in your corner bass absorbers. It looks like you have pieces setup on top of each other, sort of like they are stacked with voids every other layer. Is that what is going on or is it a trick of the light? Thanks for any light you may be able to shed on this...

That s right 1 layer of rock wool acoustished 8cm & 15cm of air ( so 1 cut some pieces of 15cm rockwool) & another layer and so on. So it s 9 layers of rock wool.

Is that to save money? (as opposed to the complete-filled-corner type aka superchunk)

No my friend acoustician Christian Malcurt says he prefer to have 15cm of air between each layer. I would ask him technical datas s.

yes, please ask. I'm just curious!

Ro wrote:

yes, please ask. I'm just curious!

+1!! This sure seams counter to everything out there as far as data showing better LF absorption by using two different materials in a vertical plane... as opposed to a horizontal plane.

Think like this, you are building a big 'ole speaker and all that insul is mere dampening. I had a set of soffits that just had foam junk dropped in place. worked great.

Bass traps need air to work just in the bass frequencies. A whole corner of rockwool & fabric will work in a larger array of frequencies. So bass trap is made with 9 layers of acoustished = rockwool 8cm ( 90Kg/m3) with a space of 15cm of air between each. Small pieces of acoustished 15cm high are there just to hold the layers. Walls The front of the cr & roughly 55% of the walls are made with Rockwool 8cm & fabric. The back wall & the rest of the walls are made with wood. There s just small bass traps at the back in the corner. Ceiling The whole ceiling is made with rockwool 8cm (90Kg/m3 ) + air 7cm + rocksol 4cm ( rockwwool 120Kg/m3) except in the middle of the cr in the false ceiling there s more bass traps + rockwool 8cm + air + rockwool 8cm.

garlo wrote:

No my friend acoustician Christian Malcurt says he prefer to have 15cm of air between each layer. I would ask him technical datas s.

That is a good idea. It is no secret that LF waves are the one thing folks with musically tuned rooms have the biggest issue with. The longer and stronger low frequency waves need dense/heavy things to slow them down so you can understand my surprise when I see what is basically a bass aborber cut in half. The air doesn't help, you can ask any body who is anybody, this is not a good idea when it comes to slowing down the effects of LF. It is akin to creating multiple skinned wall layers in an attempt to arrest the overall sound frequency. Not that it doesn't work, but it takes so much room, so much material, and so much labor it is just not worth the effort. I can see some aspect of what is a true bass trap in this design. Problem, to me, is that it does not have the depth or breadth that a true bass trap has in order to make this type of panel design function. But hey...I'm just a carpenter :)

Johns simple bass trap designs work... Tried and tested in a small 11x13' studio and with multiple applications of the portable bass trap treatments.

Is this one of Johns designs, if it is I am not aware of it. Even if it is...I do not much care for it and do not care who supports it.

xSpace wrote:

Is this one of Johns designs, if it is I am not aware of it. Even if it is...I do not much care for it and do not care who supports it.

No this is not one of Johns Designs. Nor am I stating this design is of his.... However, Johns Designs DO work. This design is questionable.

Very questionable...thin is a word that comes to mind. I apreciatte your helping me with this Bryan.