Please Help me - Building My Studio With Noise Isolation! ;)

How about this? Best of both worlds: one beam to support the upper floor, and two beams (one on either side) to attach your lower floor ceiling rafters to. They do NOT make contact with each other. Use however many layers of drywall across the bottom of the two lower beams that you'll be using on the ceiling and walls so that you have the same amount of mass to complete the envelope. Hey, something tells me that with that neighbor of yours, you're going to be very glad you're putting so much effort into your isolation. I have a feeling you'd have been in for a very hard time with the authorities if you hadn't! ;-) --Keith :mrgreen:

Keith, Thanks for the suggestion on the LVL placement. Something like that may be the answer. Guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it in a couple weeks. :lol: As for now, I got the back wall moved in, and started the Balcony off the second floor. Its turning out very nice. I am sorta glad the neighbor complained after all even though it was a ton of extra work. :lol: :lol: Below are pictures the day my friend and I moved the back wall in, then also a picture after we started framing out the balcony yesterday. Had to get that done because tomorrow is,,,,,,, ROOF/TRUSS day!! :D Starting at 7AM placing the truss brackets, then at 10AM I hired a crane to come in and place the trusses,,,then we plan on sheeting the whole roof and putting the felt paper on it tomorrow. :wink: That will be it until the following Tuesday as I was invited/asked to attend a 4 day concert involving a couple dozen National Christian Rock Bands. I get to play with sound, and help the bands set up etc. :D :D Should be exciting, and a ton of fun. They sent me my "band work schedule" of Bands I have to handle, and some include (for any of you Christian Rockers out there): Switchfoot Skillet Casting Crowns Third Day Reliant K Thousand Foot Crutch Disciple Kutless Barlow Girl KJ 52 David Crowder Toby Mac and the list goes on (I was assigned 27 bands over the 4 days) Soooo after tomorrows truss party, I will be signing off until the following week. I hope to bring home some cool pictures of me with these bands for the Studio. ;) :wink: I will post more pics tomorrow evening. Thanks AJ

There he is! :) I was waiting for you to comment on my utterly brilliant plan... ;-) Huh! You've got some kind of elevated header on pillars thing going on with that balcony... You going to screen that in or something? Looks like it will be cool! Of course, it also kind of defeats the purpose of opening that area of your neighbor's view up, huh? ;-) :lol: :P It's looking really good, AJ! I'm (still) jealous at the pace you've set for yourself. --Keith :mrgreen:

Real quick before my wife shoots me for not packing to go away tomorrow morning..lol :lol: :lol: Today we got the Trusses all on, and started a couple rows of sheeting. It was over 100 degrees up there and the heat took a severe toll. We continued though until about 4PM, then that was it for the day. We couldnt go on. Guess we will finish sheeting the roof when I get back. Only took 1 1/2 hours with the crane to set all the trusses, but they then advised me after the fact, that there was a 3 hour minimum. :twisted: :lol: Live and learn I guess. Anyway, here are some pictures and I hope to finish the sheeting, get the windows in, put on all the siding and stucco on within the 2 weeks of my return from the concerts. Then finally get to start inside. :wink: Here are a couple of the many pics from todays events. AJ

now you just need to put a clock tower on it and you'll have the tallest building the county... ;-) looking good!

That is so friggin' cool that I can hardly stand it!! 8) 8) 8) AJ, you're an inspiration. Period. --Keith :mrgreen:

well, other than your GIANORMOUS addition for your studio... i'm jelous of your gig too!!! it looks like you should have a huge roman marble thrown on the balcony to speak to your subjects below. the only other people who should be on that list is charlie hall ;) (i was lucky enough to run for them when they played at my church, awesome group of guys btw) sandled

YAWN!!!!,,,,STRETCH,,,, :shock: :roll: :D Well, I made it back from the 5 days of total rock and roll chaos, working with over 30 National Bands. Although I didnt have to work all of them, which was nice, I did get to hang, and meet with a couple cool bands (Skillet, Switchfoot, Reliant K, Toby Mac, Casting Crowns, Thousand Foot Crutch, Pillar, Third Day) and that was an experience in itself. I know this event I just worked isnt about "building a studio" but below I posted a couple pictures of the chaos from the last few days. Going to bed at 2 or 3AM then back up and at it by 8Am beats ya up. :shock: I took over 600 pictures. lol Makes me want to go back to building the studio. Seems easier!! :lol: :lol: On that note, tomorrow my friend is coming, and we are going to try to finish the roof sheeting and paper it. My agenda for the next 2 weeks is to get the roof all done, the siding and stucco on the exterior, the 2nd floor windows and 1st floor entry doors in. That way the whole place will be buttoned up. :D This concert break has thrown me off schedule. :twisted: I had to laugh at a couple of your above comments while I was gone. My wife thought they were hilarous as well (especially about the marble stone and bell tower..lol). :lol: :lol: I do have a question since I spent today working on my next materials order. In the tracking room, I will have 10 ft ceilings (there is 10ft from the floor to the bottom of the 2nd floor I-joists). To get maximum height in the tracking room, can I make a flat ceiling in the tracking room instead of a pitched one?? Then maybe add something (maybe hanging down) to help diffuse the sound in the tracking room?? I was going to make 8ft side walls, then run 2X6X10's on a pitch to the center beam of the ceiling at a slight pitch, but am kicking around just making the ceiling flat (keeping an air space between the ceiling and the 2nd floor joists so there is no flanking). Anyway,,,any suggestions??? Oh yes, also I am passing on adding the LVL Beam to strenthen the 2nd floor under the I joists. The engineer said all is good and most of the deflection will go away when the floor has some stuff on it. Said it was exactly how its supposed to be (although next time I dont think i would use wooden I joists. They just seem weak) :? Ok, I need some sleep before tomorrrow, so in closing I will show you some of the pictures of the bands and crowd I had to deal with. Approx 100,000 people for 5 days. :shock: :shock: :wink: But it went fast with only a few small technical difficulties which were easily fixed. :wink: (Except the one which was Reliant K's tour bus catching fire on the way out after they played, and they lost a ton of their own equipment. :cry: Anyway, Thanks as always!! :wink: AJ

Hi all, Yes much has transpired since my last post. Just been "bell to bell" on the project, so have not got the chance to post pictures regularly. :cry: I took pics today and will post the progress tonight. :D But,,,in the meantime, I have a dilemma and hopefully some of you can give me insight. Yesterday the inspector came by,,and good news,,,I passed my exterior framing inspection with flying colors :D :D . Also all my doors and windows are now installed (pics to come) and I built a rather large brick porch and sidewalk that leads from out front driveway, around the garage, to the studio enterence door. :wink: Now today I took off work, because I wanted to insulate the exterior walls where the tracking room "room within room" will be framed. This way it will be faster and easier then framing the inside room THEN trying to fish in the insulation through all the secondary framing to the exterior walls,,,,,right?? :lol: Ok..heres the question,,,,Again I took off to insulate, and was just out with staple gun in hand, then stopped :evil: :shock: and figured better ask first. :evil: Please try to respond ASAP if you can. ;) All is on hold till I get this answer and I dont want to waste a day I took off work. :roll: :lol: Question: My inspector requested that use R-19 insulation that has the paper back facing/barrier. This insulation will be put inside of the 2x6 exterior walls only. The inside TR 2x4 walls, will not have insulation in them. :?: Wont that paper faced insulation create another leaf in the system (I think I already know the answer) BUT if I DO use faced paperback insulation to appease him, will that thin paper leaf really make much difference with the isolation?? Is that thin paper on the insulation enough to compromise the whole isolation process??? :?: I will put todays insulation task on hold :cry: pending input from you all. I will admit, I didnt search this question on here in depth (if it may have been posted prior) because the clock is ticking, and a day off work cant be used sitting indoors online. I'll head back out and start working on something else to make the most of the day. :wink: Please respond ASAP, and maybe I can start insulating tonight yet once this question is answered. You guys are great, and Thanks As Always! Progress pics will be posted tonight. (And wait till I tell you about what I did with all my tons of scrap plywood,,,,talk about ripping down plywood to 14 1/2 inches, using a ton of caulk, and creating more exterior mass :lol: :lol: :lol: ) Thanks AJ 8)

Ok...I couldnt wait. My patience got the best of me :lol: So after I did some odds and ends today, I just had to start the insulation. :shock: :lol: Soooo... I think I played the safe card and just went back to the store and bought additional NON Faced insulation and put that up. I figured I would use that around the tracking room area where its double wall constructed, then the rest of the place and upstairs (normal construction) I will use the faced R-19 like the inspector wants. I am sure he will pass me on the unfaced area too since he said "Since this is a Studio, I will make considerations for that in passing certain things you do, as long as they are safe" Pretty nice guy huh??? :wink: :wink: So,,,below are a couple more pictures of progress. Since last pictures posted, I have: ** Sheeted the roof ** Installed the ridge vent ** Papered and shingled the roof ** Built a Brick sidewalk and porch area to the Studio from the driveway ** Put the rubber roofing/flooring on the balcony area (its ready for railing) ** Put up the Attic Vents ** Put in all the exterior Doors and Windows ** Insulated exterior walls where the TR will be ** Added a 21ft - 11 7/8" LVL (monster beam) under the floor where the upper back wall is located for additional support. That puppy was HEAVY getting up between the wooden floor joists! :shock: ** Started the exterior Stucco 4x10 sheeting, but ran into a logistics accesory problems, to be remedied tomrorow, then the Stucco sheets and siding can go up. ** And did plenty of "punch list" odds and ends. Here are some pictures. :D Thanks AJ

Also I forgot to mention, Due to a slight mis-measurment in framing the exterior first floor back wall :evil: , we double sheeted everything, BUT we couldnt double sheet the back wall (forgot to set the wall in the extra 1/2". So, as mentioned earlier, I had a bunch of extra scrap OSB laying around from the build, so I ripped it all down to fit tightly in between each of the back wall studs, attached it with construction adhesive, and then caulked all the seams (as seen in one of the pictures above). It took time, but now we have equal mass (equal to double sheeting) on all the walls on the whole studio. :wink: Just wanted to mention that for anyone with extra scrap sheeting, add it to the mass. :lol: :lol: It gets rid if it, and benefits the structures mass, as long as you dont create another leaf by doing it. (right guys??..or did I just give some bad advice??) :oops: :D Also, here is a picture with the Marvin brand windows ($736.00 each) :evil: and the doors installed. My sister is married into the owner of the Marvin Window Company's family, and told me "Dont go out and buy windows, he will all but give them to you from Marvin" then I come to find out giving was only a $200.00 dollar discount on some VERY EXPENSIVE (more then I needed) windows. lol :roll: Was an expensive lesson in buying windows. :lol: :lol: Make sure to check the price first even if its is supposed to be a deal. :roll: Also speaking of windows, remember to tell your window people, or keep in mind yourself, that since you double sheeted the exterior walls, you need to add that extra 1/2" to your window and door frames,,,,,or plan on using a bunch of trim! (Like I will be doing now) lol :lol: :lol: Custom window makers WILL make the windows to fit that extra 1/2" if you ask them. :roll: :lol: Maybe this needs to be in Lens "how not to" post! :lol: :lol: Thanks AJ

Hey Keith, Just wanted to ask you what made you finally decide to go with the Sanyo Mini Split R 410A? I was reading studio_drums post on HVAC Units,,,where you directed him to another HVAC link which I also read,,,and I have also read some, but not all of your posts on your thread, and followed your HVAC install, but didnt see why you chose that particular unit? I am getting to the point of needing to make a decision myself for my Studio, and am clueless about HVAC. (also read Rods book) Next, how did you deal with the "adding fresh air" situation since the Mini Splits arent supposed to add fresh air into rooms???? Maybe you can help me here, but what I have is the following within my new Studio building: It is 2 Stories: 1st Floor has a 10ft X 20ft Control room with 10ft ceilings (that has 2 doors to the outside world in it) (total of 200 sq ft) Then also I have a 17ft X 20 Tracking Room with 10 ft ceiling on this same 1st floor. (340 sq ft). This room only has the one entry door from the control room into it, and one window between the CR and the TR. The rest is sealed up like a drum (or will be). Then the 2nd floor is basically a large open 20ft x 26ft area (Game room, computer area, etc) (520 sq ft) This 2nd floor has 4 - twin double windows and 1 door out onto a balcony. (if this all matters for the HVAC end of things) I was thinking,,,,maybe put a smaller Mini Split unit (or inside head unit) in the Tracking room to cool and heat that area seperate,,,,,,then put a larger unit upstairs to cool and heat the 2nd floor area, plus maybe the downstairs CR area as well. Since there are open stairs going from this 2nd floor area down to the CR area, between the 2 units, I thought they might then be able to heat and cool the CR. I assume when not recording, I could always keep the TR doors open into the CR to also help with the cooling and heating from that unit??? Any thoughts?? Also what about the "fresh air" situation? Will the doors opening and closing from time to time in the CR, to the outside world, be enough fresh air for the situation?? or will I need something more for the TR? You help is as always very much appreciated. Thanks AJ

studio911 wrote:

Just wanted to ask you what made you finally decide to go with the Sanyo Mini Split R 410A? I was reading studio_drums post on HVAC Units,,,where you directed him to another HVAC link which I also read,,,and I have also read some, but not all of your posts on your thread, and followed your HVAC install, but didnt see why you chose that particular unit? I am getting to the point of needing to make a decision myself for my Studio, and am clueless about HVAC. (also read Rods book)

The Sanyo system I chose is the 09KHS71. R410-A is the refrigerant it uses, also known as Puron, which is the replacement for R-22 (Freon) as it is phased out. I chose the Sanyo unit because it was "middle of the road" in terms of costs, and I was comfortable with the brand name. I had actually looked for the Mitsubishi Mr. Slim line of mini splits, but I had some difficulty finding an online retailer for them. I figured Mitsubishi was pretty strict on selling to authorized resellers and perhaps had more control over the distribution channels... But I did find at least one company supposedly selling them after I bought the Sanyo. I made my purchase via AM Royal. I was pretty impressed with them overall, but disappointed that it took a few days for my order to ship. At the time I purchased, I think my choices (low price to high price) were Soleus, LG, Friedrich, and Sanyo. Those familiar with my "less than stellar" experience contacting Soleus about their portable air conditioners know why I steered clear of that company! :P My "gut feeling" about LG wasn't very good (I thought they were a new company, but I now realize they were formerly known here in the US as "Goldstar"), and I had personally never heard of Friedrich. Sanyo I knew. I went to their Web site and saw that they had great documentation of the specifications and the installation manual. I read the installation manual cover-to-cover, which raised my confidence in doing the installation. Then I went back to AM Royal to purchase it. I should mention that the certified HVAC technician that I had do the final hook-up last week was very impressed with the decision to go with Sanyo. He said they're great quality machines. I told him I had actually wanted a Mitsubishi, but he told me that I made the right choice because the Mitsubishis are way more expensive and that he considered the Sanyo units to be of the same quality caliber. 8)

studio911 wrote:

Next, how did you deal with the "adding fresh air" situation since the Mini Splits arent supposed to add fresh air into rooms????

I started to cover this in page 21 of my monster thread. There have been numerous twists and turns in the specifics of the plan (duct runs, number of silencers and their locations, etc.) since then, but the basics of my "using a mini split for cooling and using a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) for fresh air" plan were born at that time.

studio911 wrote:

I was thinking,,,,maybe put a smaller Mini Split unit (or inside head unit) in the Tracking room to cool and heat that area seperate,,,,,,then put a larger unit upstairs to cool and heat the 2nd floor area, plus maybe the downstairs CR area as well. Since there are open stairs going from this 2nd floor area down to the CR area, between the 2 units, I thought they might then be able to heat and cool the CR. I assume when not recording, I could always keep the TR doors open into the CR to also help with the cooling and heating from that unit??? Any thoughts??

They make two-in-one and three-in-one systems, where you have one outdoor unit and two or three indoor units feeding from it... [url=http://us.sanyo.com/industrial/HVAC/Flexi-Multi/Heat_Pumps/]See Sanyo's Flex-Multi mini split heating/cooling systems[/url] Here's Sanyo's full A/C and heat pump catalog.

studio911 wrote:

Also what about the "fresh air" situation? Will the doors opening and closing from time to time in the CR, to the outside world, be enough fresh air for the situation?? or will I need something more for the TR?

Nooooooooooooooooo!!! That is not sufficient and not to code. I had a similar plan in mind when I first approached my city building department with sketches, and I was literally laughed at for that approach! Rod and I have discussed this with forum members on multiple occasions. Perhaps the most infamous discussion is eruss' "Ventilation and Code" thread. As unpleasant a read it may be (The guy was, ahem, rather disrespectful), it's still got a lot of great information in it. Beyond that, doing a search for the terms "fresh ventilation mechanical code," using the "Search for all terms" option, will uncover a series of threads in which this has been discussed. I'm usually the one who brings it up. ;-) Hope that helps, AJ! 8) --Keith :mrgreen:

As always, Keith, great info. Thanx for taking the time to sit down, strutt yer stuff and keep us on edge. I'm currently having the HVAC plan done by the singer of my band who has that stuff for a profession. But I'll keep an eye him, just to be sure ;) Keith, what was the total cost of your airco split system?

Thanks, Ro. :-) Actually, yesterday's post from AJ started as a private message to me. I encouraged him to post it on his project thread instead so that I can respond in public for the benefit of others as well. I'm glad I did that! :-D As for the final bill for my mini split, I recall getting three estimates for systems from Mitsubishi-authorized dealers/installers a couple of years ago, before I began construction. The lowest was around US$2,800 intalled and was for 8,800 BTU cooling only (no heat pump). The system I bought was 9,000 BTU cooling and heat for around US$1,400, plus the cost of the 50-foot insulated refrigerant line set (US$150 I think? :oops:) and the expensive insulated drain hose I got (around US$200! :shock: Probably a waste -- I could have used PVC pipe and insulated myself). The electrical stuff was probably a couple hundred dollars because of the distances involved, and made worse by my errors that required corrections. Of course I had to pay a pro for one hour of labor (US$89), some extra R410-A refrigerant due to the length of the lines (US$75), and an adapter (US$20) to get the thing up and running last week. I figure I saved around $1,000 by doing the labor myself. However, as you know, I may be paying for repairs now, because the f&@*ing thing isn't working right now... :x :evil: :-( --Keith :mrgreen:

Ok,,I have been reading away on vent systems and HVAC on here. :shock: Now I have another question (I am sure one of many). Lets say I get a mini split for heat and cooling for the studio (the whole building, not just the tracking room), and so then I would need a source for the fresh air for the tracking room since its sealed. Couldnt I keep it rather simple and inexpensive by just maybe installing a basic 2 fan system up in the attic, which will send air in, and also vent air out of the tracking room and into the Attic area which is over the 2nd floor? The attic area has a rather large sturdy ridge vent (allowing a bunch of air in) and also has vented soffets on the sides (I also used attic mate duct so the insulation wont block this ventilation over time). So, that means, I SHOULD have a pile if fresh air up in that attic/truss space. Cant I use that as a sort of "exchange room" between the fresh air and the exausted air from the tracking room?? I am sure codes wont say anything about it, as they have yet to mention anything about the need for fresh air (which I know is a must, they just arent used to worrying about somethign like that in this small po-dunk town. A town of ZERO studios or "sealed" rooms) :lol: :lol: So, would the below drawing work?? Also, I have seen some of the "silencers" you guys came up with?? Are you actually using them,,,and do/did they really work well?? And finally,,,,even with the baffles/silencers, etc,,,I still can not believe that all the hard work and effort for sound isolation dosent just go out the window when you breach the TR walls to add these or any sends and/or returns. Am I missing somethign here, or is there a way to keep the seal of the room while installing these either fresh air ir HVAC sends and returns to and from a Tracking Room?? (Just dosent seem possible to keep the isolation once those holes are cut in the walls or ceilings>?>?) :shock: Here is the picture of a quick drawing with my simple and basic dual fan vent system concept. :roll: Let me know your input and what you thnk,,, and as always Thanks a bunch! :wink: AJ

Nope, mechanical fresh air ventilation must port directly to/from the outdoors. I'm pretty sure exhausting into an attic is against code (I know it won't pass in the case of exhaust fans in laudry rooms and bathrooms), and I'm nearly certain sucking air out of the attic is a no-no as well. Have you studied the benefits of HRV and ERV systems? There's great information about them on the Fantech Web site. Mind you, the systems are designed for whole houses and are designed to improve indoor air quality with relatively small amounts of air exchange. In our case we're using them in lieu of operable windows, so the exchange rate is higher, but the square footage is lower to make up for that. In short, during the heating season, warmth from air being exhausted warms the incoming air, so the room is not chilled as much, which saves energy. A similar effect occurs during the cooling season, when cool air being exhausted is warmed slightly by the warm air entering the system, thus transferring some of the heat out of the incoming air, which has the effect of cooling it slightly. More energy is saved during the heating season than the cooling season to be sure, but it's still a pretty cool concept (no pun intended ;-)). Rod is arguably the most knowledgeable person on the forum on the subject of HVAC, so you might PM him with an invitation to visit your latest posts for his feedback. As always, his words on the subject trump mine! :lol: --Keith :mrgreen:

Ok..I am clear on the fresh air vent concept, and the proper way I need to do it. Now I am weighing out the cost differences, and total involvement between going with Mini Split unit plus then an HRV,,,,or,,,,just going with a heat pump for Heat and Cooling. (thus understanding it correctly, will or should bring in fresh air or have that option without an HRV (right??) :roll: Anyway, today I made more progress. After fighting with my vendor (Home Depot) on the Stucco sheet 4X10 siding panels I bought (over $1,000.00 worth) that I can not use because they dont sell the accessories needed to go with them to install them, I called the Coorporate Office in Atlanta, and got them to return these panels. What a mess that was :cry: :roll: Anyway,,,as I was saying, after all that, I managed to get the interior tracking room walls framed and up today. :D This Sunday I will be framing out the CR walls and any, and all other walls that are to be built. The walls we did today, are the ones which will be totally de-coupled from everything else. (and yes the bracing(s) in the pictures holding these walls plumb, will be gone then too) :lol: As you can see in the one picture below, I put a line sorta indicating the pitched ceiling (like a 2/12 pitch)I plan to have in the tracking room, instead of a plain flat ceiling. Next is the big decision to be made on the HVAC system, and getting at least the ducts (if needed) in place for that so I can start the electrical wiring. :D Here are a couple pics of todays progress. :wink: Also as you'll see, I found a use for my plastic fencing I was using outside too. (I think I may have seen this idea on here before somewhere) but anyway, figured it will help hold the unfaced insulation in place around the tracking room exterior walls. :D QUESTION on insulation,,,,does it matter if I insulate the INTERIOR tracking room walls or not?? I read on here Yes and No>? Some say fluffy OC insulation does nothing for sound isolation, but some then show pictures or diagrams with it in these interior TR walls?? Anyway, we are projecting at this point about a month till we might be totally completed, and able to move in. (but we know how projections like that go) :D :lol: :D :lol: :D :lol: :D Enjoy the pics... and always open for input and advice from you guys! :wink: Thanks AJ

studio911 wrote:

just going with a heat pump for Heat and Cooling. (thus understanding it correctly, will or should bring in fresh air or have that option without an HRV (right??) :roll:

Studio - you really need to find a contractor you'll be comfortable with - and work through this with him. Heat pumps are not effective in your part of the world unless they are water to air........ and water to air systems are quite expensive. Therefor I find myself thinks you are talking air to air heat pumps - and that paces us back to where they really don't work in your part of the world. picture yuor winters - you spenda real large amount of your time with temperatures below 35 degrees F - and at that temps range you have no heat pump - and all electric heat - which is VERY VERY expensive to run......... You might be better off investing a little more money and buying a system that will operate with enough energy savings so as to pay for itself in one or 2 years of operation. A good HVACcontractor could guide you thorugh understanding that process....... Rod

Hey Rod, Thanks for the information. Actually is was one of the areas known HVAC contractors who recommended the heat pump system to me>? :roll: (now even more confused) lol :lol: My house even had a heat pump system in it when we bought it, as do many houses in this area (South Central PA) but my wife has always said "Heat pumps just dont ever feel like they blow really warm air". So we tore out the heat pump system, and went with Oil forced hot air. :wink: She says that blows hot air that you can feel. Anyway, again, lots of homes in this area use the heat pump systems (air to air), but there is always that looming question, are they efficient, and will they heat once it gets below freezing. We typically only have maybe 20 or 30 days a year below freezing (lately at least) but with weather, as we know, anything can happen. The HVAC guys (I guess maybe just to sell them) say "yea heat pumps are way more efficient today then years back, and will keep you warm". I find that hard to believe though, and still believe as you stated, they wont work well under 32 degrees. And I can imagine how much it would cost to run electric back up all the time. :shock: :evil: But again, it was a known area HVAC contractor who recommended the heat pump to me for the studio, so thats why I threw that option out there.>?>? Can I ask,,,,what kind of system are you referring to, that may be a little more expensive, but may pay for itself in a couple of years?? I would be willing to spend the extra couple dollars for something like that. OR does that type system all depend an ones location?? (sorry for sounding dumb, but I just never had reason to look into, or try to understand HVAC until now). :oops: Thanks again :wink: AJ

AJ, Looking sweet. I know progress and hard work when I see it. You're a monster. I think I lost ten pounds and gained some muscle through my build. Just an observation and hard to tell from the pictures. But the framed window looks like it might be too low if you are standing. Keep up the good work Tom

Hey Tom,,,Thanks for the compliments. :wink: And speaking of weight, I lost 18 Lbs since about 6 weeks ago when we started framing. I needed that since I was 250lb. :shock: :shock: . So thats also my motivation in doing the 10+ hour days of labor,,,,,losing all the weight. :lol: :lol: Now, onto your comment about the window :oops: . Last night with my wife came home from work, and I, as always, was eager to show her what all was done that day. As soon as I showed her that wall (and window) she said the same thing,,,, "isnt that a little low" What I did was basically figured for the top of the desk being about 30" off the ground (same as my computer desk, and the desk at my other studio) then added another 8" for the height of the back of the console, then started building the window from there. The window opening is currently 4ft wide and 2ft high. It seems perfect for me when sitting down in front of it, but yes, being 6ft 2in tall I do have to bend over a little to look through it while standing. :roll: I am now thinking about raising the header up a foot so the window is 4ft wide by 3ft high. That should do the trick. Ok...now you got the wheels spinning,,,,guess I am going to sign off and walk downstairs and do some more measuring. :lol: :lol: :lol: Would what I have now worked?? Yea probably, but your absolutely right, why have to bend over to look through it while standing. :roll: :lol: Thanks for the catch Tom. :wink: AJ

Just went and measured. And although a little low, its actually not that far off to see through while standing. I think I need to raise the header only about 8" which will give me a window opening that is about 32" high instead of 24". (also just FYI,,, keep in mind, the floor to ceiling span in the pictures is 10ft high) Anyway, moving it up 8" will put it above my standing line of sight by about 2". :wink: Guess thats on the "to-do" list for tomorrow. lol Thanks again AJ

For what it's worth... In our current house, we have 10 foot ceilings, and the bottoms of all the windows are about 37" from the floor. In our previous house, we had 8 foot ceilings, and the bottoms of all the windows were about 31" from the floor. In both cases, the windows were taller than 24". ;-) --Keith :mrgreen:

OK..I moved the window top header up 8", and the bottom is 38" off the floor. Looks like it will work well now both sitting and standing now. :D Also cut all the ceiling rafters with a 2/12 pitch and plan to install them tomorrow for the TR ceiling framing. Pulling a 16 hour OT tonight with City Fire, but cant wait till I get off tomorrow to rip back into it. Who needs sleep?? :lol: :lol: Anyway, I did a search on this topic and didnt come up with exact answers,,,I insulated my exterior walls around the TR, but now need to know whether I need to also insulate in inside TR walls as well?? Some posts show it and some dont. OK...just wanted to jump on here quick...back to protecting the citizens of the City. :roll: :lol: Thanks AJ