Marc's Patio & Garage Studio

Yes this is one case in which i'm a big believer in permits (i.e. when someone else is doing the work :wink: ) i had a new window and slider door put in the master bedroom of my house, and the inspector was all over those guys making sure they did it right -- to their frustration, they had to re-do at least a day's worth of work because they screwed up. i can't imagine what they would have gotten away with otherwise. even the stuff i could see was done wrong, and i had to stay on them myself. they even installed the slider upside down. :lol: apologies to you construction guys, i know you're not all bad :) ...

I had a gas line extended from my garage to my laundry room a few days after we bought the house. Apparently the previous owner was too cheap to buy the builder "option" to have the laundry room plumbed for gas. :roll: I'm pretty sure that work requires a permit, but neither I nor the contractor I hired obtained one. This was done about six months before I really started doing research for my studio project and, in the process, became a strong advocate of becoming familiar with and then complying with the laws that govern these things. Yes, that's right -- in a previous life, Keith used to be just a regular everyday non-permit-getter DIY'er! :lol:

and now you wouldn't even move an outlet without a permit .... oops! :oops: hahhaha :lol: just giving you a hard time buddy. :)

Man-oh-man it's hard to be humble around here! :lol:

Babble: One More Permit Story: This is related to my studio build, from removing the sprinkler manifold from the studio wall and the chain of events that has lead to building a fence in my backyard. :arrow: The huge bush I had removed and stump grinded was on a 90 foot wide 6 foot deep area on the back of my property. My survey says the back 5 feet of my property is Public Utility & Drainage Easement. I have 6 neighbors on my street; all backs of property are a straight line with an old orange grove behind us. 4 out of 6 have there fence on the back of there property not at the edge of the 5 foot easement. There is a power line running at the back of all properties and our transformers are on the poles of this power line. A couple days ago I called the code office about a permit for my new fence. I explained the above to plan examiner. His 1st response was “If it were me I would just build the fence and be prepared to take it down if needed, near the power line poles I would screw those sections of fence in” He did not say he would not get the $34 permit but he sure did imply it. :shock: I took the conversation on to find out I can get a letter & insight from the power company to build fence were I want it. Drainage easement issue could be handled at code office, but at what cost??? There is no drainage ditch or need for one in my opinion. Plus I just spent $650 to remove bush and stump grind this area, I want my 5 feet. :shock: Do you think I’m going to apply for a fence permit? :twisted: OK now some real questions: :roll: 1. My patio and garage concrete slab/floor have the same type of paint, presumed 40 years old, has chips and I have no idea of manufacture. For vapor barrier on my slab(s) I should just apply new paint of known manufacture so that I can adhere my chosen flooring to slab correctly? :D In this part of Florida we have less then 2 months of heating, maybe 5 nights a year it will freeze for less then 8 hours. 2. Slot absorber for mid or low mid will cause triple leaf effect. But what about Bass traps? I’ve borrowed this list of bass trap types from thread Explain function of "ported" bass trap (there are pics there too and a great post by Knightfly) Type 1 - Absorbent Corner Trap, corner absorber, fabric faced over insulation, no resonate panel, hanging absorbant panels. (like first drawing) Type 2 - Resonate Corner Trap, corner absorber, fabric faced over insulation, resonate panel on outside face, sealed cavity, . Type 3 - Ported Corner Trap, corner absorber, fabric faced over insulation, resonate panel on inside face dampened with insulation, sealed cavity, ported on bottom, hanging absorbant panels. (like second drawing - section thru corner soffit) Type 4 - Resonate Wall Absorber, Like RealTraps, sealed rectangular cavity of specific depth with resonating panel and insulation spaced 1/2" from panel, frequency depends on depth and panel rigidity. Type 5 - Dampened Panel Absorber, Like RealTraps, sealed rectangular cavity of specific depth but with resonating panel dampened by insulation glued to panel, frequency depends on depth and panel rigidity. -Obviously Type 2 - Resonate Corner Trap, and Type 3 - Ported Corner Trap will cause some triple leaf effect/isolation loss. -Type 4 - Resonate Wall Absorber and Type 5 - Dampened Panel Absorber seem as if they will cause triple leaf effect/isolation loss but less then Type 2 & 3. -Type 1 - Absorbent Corner Trap, seems to be the winner as far as the least triple leaf effect/isolation loss. Am I correct? :D I know this may be a difficult comparison; if I missed a thread some where’s explaining this, a link to that thread would be great. 3. With a sealed cavity absorber causing triple leaf/isolation loss, would the direction of sound isolation loss be only from studio to outside studio OR would outside sound still leak into studio at an equal rate? One more set of babbles: :twisted: Presuming I repaint concrete under studio this will lead to repainting entire garage and patio concrete… one more thing on my list of honey-dos. :mrgreen: I finally finished up with the walkway/ patio stones today, still need to get more river rock and plant things in the garden bed. Next task is to cut new access door to attic which needs to be done before whatever date electrician sets for panel move/upgrade and start on fence in back yard. Marc :twisted:

1 - Best bet is to ask the manufacturer of your flooring, being sure to explain your climate. Any vapor barriers in that climate need to be at the OUTER shell, either sealant on concrete walls/floors or for frame walls, just outside the outermost studs. 2 - KISS method usually works best; normal, absorbent corners. As thick as you can afford, no less than 4", 8's better, complete fill a bit better yet. 3 to 6 PCF for corner traps, if more than 3 PCF for side absorbers (first reflection points) I'd face it with fluffier stuff. 3 - Any weakening of the isolation due to resonant traps will always be a 2-way street. For a classic example of this effect, put a loud boombox in another room, separated from you by concrete block (hollow) - Hopefully this room has a door for more isolation from the room YOU are in - pick up a 4x4 foot section of plywood or gypsum, hold it in front of you like you're gonna hang a picture on the intervening wall, and slowly walk toward this wall with the board in front of you - note which frequencies change in loudness as you get closer, right up til you actually TOUCH the block wall with the 4x4 board. Note that the changes did NOT need a SEALED trap, only the air between the board and the wall... Steve

Only a small update on my progress... After staring at the quotes of my electric upgrade/panel move for over a week I finally conjured up the nerve to sign the one for $2,300 and fax it off. :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: Besides that I’m still reading info and trying to come up with a good design for room. I’ll be posting my options sometime. I’m at least 30-45 days away from starting the addition to my house for studio. Electrician has to get permit (1 week) then schedule with Power Company for a disconnect (2 to 4 weeks) and inspector for the same day the work is done. I’m not applying for addition permit till electrical is done. I've been working and will continue to work on my yard and landscaping while I wait. Also been making those "begging" type calls to increase gigs/income to pay for this project. Marc

I had to take a break from thinking about my studio for a bit… but I’m back now. :twisted: :twisted: I just updated my design thread, questioning where to place my outer walls with rough designs of options: Patio & Garage Studio Quest I am getting close to cutting the new attic access door; I may get it done this week. I’ve decided to put it in my patio as there is less stuff in the way above in attic. I’ve figured I can manipulate a deadbolt or cabinet flush mount lock(s) to make the door securely lock on one side, other side will be hinges or sit in a lip. It will be on the exterior of my house and my wife and I have watched too many episodes of CSI. Babble I have found my way to other pre-construction projects. Garbage Can Drain Field: I was not planning on even mentioning this but… TomM had questioned on his thread Basement studio thread.. time to start this thing if his drain field from down spout of rain gutters were affecting his studio. Just so happened that day I was working on a drain field for one of my rain gutters… again this job was sparked by my sprinkler rebuild out of studio wall. It’s further away from studio this time on the opposite corner of my garage, Tom asked for pics and rather than litter his thread I’ll post them hear: This is a cheap Florida Drain Field, a $5 garbage can drilled full of holes lined with $1 worth of weed barrier, an $8 end gutter piece and $5 dollar worth of rock: It works for me because I have great drainage any ways of all sand on my property. I choose not to dig a trench because a side walk was in the way. Reason I put the lid in prior to burial is that plants will eventual be above it. AND the end peice was straighter when burried. Old Chimney from old oil furnace in garage to remove from garage ceiling: Right where that sqaure and circle in ceiling is where my west outer wall is going. Got to rip that out and repair the drywall. You can see the chimney behind the air duct in the attic in next pic. This is where I’m planning to cut it near the top. This will also make a temporary nice hole in the ceiling to help electricians move my electrical panel. And the Chimney on the roof I’m not touching, I just have to make sure I don’t screw up the flu. And one more annoying task… :x :x Dryer Vent: My dryer currently and for the past 40 years vents into my garage. I’ve not only discover it is against code to not vent outside but it’s also a fire hazard, especially since my new electrical panel location is right where the vent is… which litters lint all over my garage. I’ve tried this water bucket trap thing but it doesn’t really work. So my best option is to go straight up and make a dryer vent chimney with the correct cap. I can’t use the old oil furnace chimney; even if it was close enough to dryer, it’s not the correct shape. I can’t relocate the dryer to an outside wall easily. If I were try to run a vent to an outside wall, I’d still have to go up 8 feet and then across 20 feet of vent pipe through attic and install a booster fan to get to the outside wall… just going straight up I’ll be going 10 feet to roof. Of course I have to make sure I have a clean out both from top and bottom, I have friends who have this style of chimney dryer vent in brand new houses. What a pain in the butt. :roll: Real question about studio: 1. I have 9 or 10 sheets of 3/4” plywood, smooth on one side that I would love to put to good use in studio. There just slightly cut up and cost me $40 a piece. They were used for hurricane shutters. I can not use them for sheathing. I could use them on my concrete slab and then put my hardwood floor on top of the plywood but I don’t know if that’s a good idea. Any suggestion where I could put this ¾” plywood to good use? 2. I’ve made a few mistakes/presumptions for my situation so far that have caused me to back track. Let’s see… floating floor, inside out walls, before finding this web site looked into QuietRock and Auralex MD vinyl, 2x4 joists on to far a span, not considered Green Glue, realized overstuffed fluffy fiberglass is almost the same as rigid and I am sure there are more… So question is anyone wanna take a guess at what mistake or presumption I’m going to make next that will cause me to back track? Marc :twisted:

Marc wrote:

Any suggestion where I could put this ¾” plywood to good use?

I am going to float the floor in the room I'm working on now. The existing "floor" was poured on top of a patio slab and has 2x4 nailers embedded in the concrete that were used to nail down the hardwood floors. The floor is very uneven - it wasn't finished smoothly because it was never intended to be a finished floor/slab. So I'm putting a layer of 1/2" asphalt impregnated sheathing (+/- 16 pcf) followed by 2 layers of 3/4" plywood, staggering the joints and alternating the orientation. On top of that I'll put a Pergo laminated flooring system. I'll also put a strip of the asphalt board around the edges of the plywood floor. Not only will this give me a floating and decoupled floor, but it will raise the elevation level to the finished floor in the rest of the house. :D

Marc, it's not too difficult to run a new duct out through a composition shingle roof, i don't know if you have done this before. it can be a little scary to cut a hole in your roof. :D make sure you are not to close to the peak of the roof, the flashing can be quite large and needs to stay below the peak obviously. it's a good idea to make a cardboard template of the bottom of your vent with the proper hole, and then spray paint works well to mark where you want to cut the hole. it's good to do this on a relatively hot day if possible, what i have done several times in the past is run a very long screwdriver or similar tool under the asphalt shingle rows where the flashing for the vent needs to go and simply lift until the roof nail is pulled through the warm/hot shingle. then i use a block of wood and hammer the nail head down through the upper layers, since it now will be protruding a bit, and get in the way. in manner way you can create a nail free zone for the flashing of your vent to slide up in. then i just nail the bottom corners down and put a little roof cement around the nails. i've done this at least 4 or 5 times for various projects, without any leaks. but that's just me "making it up," i'm not sure if there might be a better way.

I made a little mistkake above. how i nailed down the protruding nail IIRC was to put my screwdriver end over the top of the nail (under the roofing shingles) and then hammered it down through the shingle. it's been a while. but the main thing is you have to do it in a way that doesn't tear up the layers of roof above the nailhead.

This post is about pre-construction, moving things around and other babbling. :roll: I had an early gig tonight, full pay and home early. :D Dan, Cool 8) thanks for the tips. Now I only have to research 2 more internet guides to the task instead of 3. No offence but I’ve made it my own rule when looking for answers or “how to” on the internet to get at least 3 sources. I've not cut a hole in a roof before. I’ve done roofing/shingle work over 12 years ago, creating peaked roofs from flat roofs on 4 of my grandfathers 2 story apartment buildings. I don’t remember a lot, but remember enough to confidently get my self in trouble. :twisted: I won’t be near the peak of roof. The air vent part of water heater & washer drain is right where I’m going to put this vent so I have a guide from roof and in attic. I’m not sure yet if the AC ducts in attic will be in the way BUT… I could have looked today but did not have time to get on the other side of air ducts before my wife and son came home and… :D I had a rather pleasant trip in my attic today :D very safely on a path I built of plywood boards from my new attic access :D :D :D New Door/Scuttle Hole: (Remember I busted through ceiling drywall on another part of attic by accident) I found some good use for the smaller peices of my 3/4" hurricance plywood :!: Pleasant in the fact I felt safe on plywood not balancing on truss chords, I did not have to hurdle over AC duct (today), it did not take 15 minutes to go from “A to B” and I actually had a plugged in work light with me. The new access door or “scuttle hole” is not done, but atleast I have safe access for me and workers now. It still needs paint, weather stripping, hinges and a lock. The locking part is going to wait till the electric panel gets moved because I ended up right under my main 220V line and a 120V line for a light switch. :roll: I got the plywood path all the way to the new electrical panel location, which is further away from current location in a tighter spot. It would not be pleasant for someone over weight though or claustrophobic. I can barely squeeze my butt through parts of the “path” and I’m 5’11”, 180 pounds. :) Also today I started ripping out the old furnace chimney. I think I can finish that quickly tomorrow. The dryer vent/chimney is going to be a slightly larger job then 1st thought. When my house was built the entire garage had popcorn ceiling with the dryer venting into the garage. One of my neighbors has about 10% popcorn left still… I don’t know what the builder was thinking. I home repair guy down the street told me he took the popcorn out of my garage years ago… BUT the one part of my garage that still has popcorn is the washer/dryer area. So I have to remove shelves I built above washer area, remove washer and dryer and then knock out popcorn. Then I can run the dryer vent maybe even in the wall. I was able to peak down the wall today from above and noticed it had furring strips hopefully making the inside 4”, big enough for the vent pipe. Still I’m not actually working on my studio but at least I’m now in the house (attic) instead of playing with sand and landscaping outside. :roll: Marc :twisted:

Another post about pre construction, no questions. I removed the old furnace chimney from my garage ceiling, took out a bit to much drywall but at least it’s gone and out of the way. The actual chimney on roof was not brick like I thought; it’s just sheet metal with a brick molding. I’m not sure if I want to remove the chimney all together, even through it looks in decent shape. I would have to replace/install roof sheathing and shingles to cover the hole…I sure hope as is it does not leak onto my studio (through double ceilings), that area will be a rear bass trap. The hole in ceiling of garage will remain until electric work is done. I still don’t have a date for electric work yet, waiting on electrician to get permit as far as I know. I got my dryer vent installed through to a new roof vent with cap… only 4 or 5 trips to HD, Lowes & even Wall-mart to get all the right parts and tools. Dan, I ended up using a circle cutter Dremel Tool attachment to cut all the holes. The one through the roof I cut from the attic as I was to nervous to miss my mark. I got the vent and flashing into the shingles great… what you said was actually more helpful than the other DIY sources I found when it came to actually playing with the pieces on the roof. Using the block of wood was a good tip :D I couldn’t run the dryer vent in the wall like I wanted too, there was a truss in the way in attic… even though I was so looking forward to cutting out and replacing all the drywall and cutting through the top plates within a finished wall. To avoid going through popcorn ceiling on the side of the wall of the dryer, I went up the back side of the wall. To avoid air ducts in attic the entire 11’ of dryer vent runs at an angle. I did jump up and down on my roof when done; hot air from dryer blowing outside my house not into garage was enchanting. Best of all it’s built all to code, its safe and my electric bill should go down. Making all these trips into my attic has helped me determine a little more about my electrical upgrade/panel move. Not all my lines from panel to around the house run through my attic, a few run through the wall and I’ll have to tackle them the day of the upgrade. Now I’m on to relocating other things. I have 7 sections of walls to deal with for my single room. Every wall has more than one thing to be relocated, and then moving what ever item seems to affect other things… urhh. I've been shuffling stuff in my garage trying to find new "permanent homes" for them espeicially my tools. Tomorrow I’m relocating plants from the section of my garden that is adjacent to an eventually studio wall… but of course I had to build a planter box to move them to, bla, bla, bla… Marc

Tomorrow I’m relocating plants from the section of my garden that is adjacent to an eventually studio wall… but of course I had to build a planter box to move them to, bla, bla, bla… Ain't it the bleedin' truth - I think 97% of remodeling ANYTHING is solved when you finally (if ever) figure out which of 10,000 things you can actually DO without having to do something else FIRST... :? Steve

Marc, glad my post helped. Speaking of missing the mark as you said, i should have mentioned first drilling a locator hole thru the center of the location for ease of finding the spot from either side. my memory failed me on that one. on one project, putting in a thermostat controlled exhaust fan in my garage, obviously i did not want to have it straddle a rafter so i chose my spot from inside, drilled my locator hole and stuck a wire out so i could find it once on the roof. then i cut my hole from outside. but sometimes from inside is easier. another trick that may come in handy, say you are trying to drill down thru a top plate to run wire down your wall. you drill a small hole in the ceiling above your new electrical box, run a white coathanger thru the hole and then when you go up to the attic it's easy to find that coathanger & your exact spot. maybe you know this trick already but it took me a while to discover it. also i have recently discovered the wonders of fish tape. but that's another story :D

Dan, Nice new avatar but why is it all fuzzy? Yeah I thought about drilling a guide hole through the roof but in this case for me the cut was easier from inside the attic. That was another great tip about the drilling a guide hole in the adjacent ceiling for running a wire through a wall. Question for you, Dan about the thermostat controlled exhaust fan in your garage. How noisy is the fan? I’m considering installing one of these in my attic/roof to try and reduce the temperature in attic on hot days. Keeping a cooler attic is supposed to help in the cooling cost of the house. I may utilize the hole in my roof from old furnace chimney to install the fan. Fishing tape... I've been eyeing that stuff. I'm sure I'll get a lessen with that watching the electricians relocate my panel. And… I forgot to mention another point of progress. Arrangements for my “B” financing plan are on the way, I just have to finish my taxes this week in order for it to go through… urhhh I hate taxes being a sole proprietor, self employed musician. Marc

If you have a ridge vent, don't bother - it wouldn't do anything but lighten your wallet. If you decide you have to have one, I'll sell you mine cheap. :wink:

Marc, you don't think the blurry look is artsy and cool? dang ... :oops: As far as the fan, Sandersd may be right about ridge venting, my garage didn't have any. I put in the fan on one end of my garage, and a new ridge vent in the attic space above the breezeway adjacent to the garage. So i was hoping to create an airflow that way. Maybe he is right though about the ridge venting alone. In any case my garage was a helluva lot cooler after i put it in. And i have to say, this fan would have cooled down the attic very well in my estimation, and my attic did have ridge vents. however it costs money to run, probably 15 bucks a month during the summer i estimated (guesstimated?) ... i never did put one in the attic space because i had a whole house fan that did the same job. a whole house fan is the bomb by the way, i've put one in both of the other two houses i've owned, plus i did a friend's house. that's how much i like 'em. i haven't done my current house yet, go figure i haven't had time. :) the exhaust fan though was a littel noisy, the one that HD carries has a screen for keeping birds (and fingers?) out, which was lightly attached so it rattled. I used some rubbery grey caulk to adhere and dampen the screen which worked to fix that problem. but it is a pretty strong fan so yes the fan noise was there. inside the attic space i doubt you'd be able to hear it in the house though. i could barely hear it in the breezeway with the door to the garage open.

More pre construction talk, no questions :shock:

If you have a ridge vent, don't bother - it wouldn't do anything but lighten your wallet. If you decide you have to have one, I'll sell you mine cheap.

Sandersd, thanks :D You saved me time and money. I was wondering about the ridge vent thing (I got one) though I hadn't got to do the research yet. BTW to verify Sandersd comments I did some looking: From: http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/whyVent/evaluate.shtml

Common Mistakes: Too many times, homeowners install products that short-circuit their ventilation system. When designing a ventilation system, avoid these common pitfalls: Using a combination of different types of exhaust vents, like power vents with ridge vents. In this case, competing vents pull air from each other instead of from soffit vents.

Dan Fuzzy... oops Dan Blurry... Yeah it's cool avatar. Isn't it challenging to make a good pic fit into the size of an avatar? It's good to know what an exhaust fan can do. The only use for this house I could see now would be for garage, though I don't have a clue where it would go and don’t want to add another thing to my to-do list. Whole house fan, I've only seen or even heard of one in this part of Florida. They are not common here. I think it's just too dang hot most of the time here. My wife hates opening the windows, wants new windows and thinks the outside air is dirty. For comparison sake I just looked up Bay Area Climate zone (by hardiness of plants) and you're one zone (out of 11) lower in average temp to me (I’m 9b and your 8a) . I got one pre construction studio task done today, moved one plant out of the way of a studio wall. The other plants in effected garden area have easier moves or will just die where they are. But I got one helluva a nice new octagon shaped planter in my front yard featuring the plant I moved, a mini crape myrtle which I divided into 3, with 8 new heather plants on the outside border. I spent the entire day outside with my son digging in the dirt and having fun. It was a great day :D well... except when my son tripped while running and kissed the pavement :roll: Marc

the whole house fan is great in the evenings for when it is cooler outside than it is inside, yet the air inside won't leave, and the attic heat will keep radiating down into your house for hours. the fan gets cool air into the house and into the attic within minutes. don't know if that works in your area -- plus you probably have super humidity which means you just run the AC all the time. in that case the exhaust fan makes more sense. the heat in the attic needs to go away, otherwise your AC has to work much harder. to me the passive vents take too long to do the job. it's true that i actually did intentionally short circuit from the garage fan to the ridg vent, but hot air rises, so i thought the hot air would rise and be continually peeled off by the fan/vent system. anyway it seemed to work. let's just say i'm a fan of fans :o

Indeed -- you turned me onto Fantech! 8)

Marc, I did a two year stint as an estimator for an insulation and fireproofing contractor and learned a lot about thermal and acoustic insulation. There are three kinds of heat transfer: radiant, conductive, and convective. Each requires a different method of control. The most cost effective suggestions are: install a radiant barrier to the underside of your roof joists and add R-30 insulation batts to what is already there. The radiant barrier will reflect a huge percentage of heat and prevent your attic from heating up as much and the R-30 will isolate the structure below from convective heat transfer. Conductive heat is not an issue because the framing is wood and not metal. I used a spray-on radiant barrier, but HD and Lowes sell a staple-up metalized foil or bubble wrap looking stuff that does the same thing. Install it with the reflective surface facing down. HUH :shock: If you don't, it'll eventually be covered with a layer of dust that will render it ineffective. It will work facing either way. I've also installed unfaced R-30 batts perpendicular to my joists and on top of the existing pitiful excuse for insulation (3" blown in) that was installed 35 years ago. The attic is noticably cooler and no heat radiated into the house. :idea:

Sandersd, Thanks for the info on the attic insulation. You've now added something to the very end of my home renovation to-do list. :shock: Write now I'm working on moving the ceiling fan in my patio out of the way of an eventual studio wall. I almost got this small project done with only one trip to HD, but I got the new switch wire tangled in the wall and had to cut off just enough wire to not making it to the fan. Lesson learned in that wall (concrete block, furring strips and wood panel) with it was easier going down then up. With this done tomorrow I will have everything (except the screen wall) on the patio side of my eventual studio out of the way. 8) Announcement: I now have a due date for my studio, which the birthed the idea for my sound proof room, and I’ll explain in the way my wife told me. Son and I came to dinner. On my plate was a soft flour tortilla folded in three. On top was written “open me / lift”, under 1st fold was written “pull down” and the final unfold revealed “243 more days”. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D We’re pregnant with our 2nd child and the due date is around Dec 3, 2006. That is now when I want/need to have the studio room in working order. This adds in some room shuffling for me. :? The current spare room/new baby’s room is the only unused space in my house. It will soon be a temporary storage room for stuff currently stored in the garage, in the space where part of my studio will be. :twisted: Got to get things moving but I’m still waiting on electrical work. :twisted: When we have this baby, my wife will quit her job as a teacher and I need a work space. :!: And there I will be the dad who supports his family playing guitar. Marc

Cool I get to be the first to congratulate you on the announcement!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Congratulations!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Looks like guitardad is going to be a guitardad again! ;-)

Aloha Marc, Congratulations to you and your wife (and son)! :D Aloha 8)