Lilith_envy studio diary

Thanks John, you were up early this morning. :D

John Sayers wrote:

I would hope you have measured your space correctly so shouldn't have to fill to much. Just make sure the drywall seals right up to the door frame and seals all the way around.

Well..because I was un-sure what the door would look like. I have build and fixed the longest part of the wall(to the left of the door) but I left the smaller section (right side) un-attached. built but not dyna bolted. So the gap can be as tight or lose as I want. +/- 20mm or so. you can see it lying down in this pic. But, I'm assuming your answer is no 203, just a tight fit then, caulk caulk caulk?

But, I'm assuming your answer is no 203, just a tight fit then, caulk caulk caulk?

yes - :)

Sweet thanks. I'll have camera over the weekend- Then I'll go back to question 5.

lilith_envy wrote:

Q4- Joining the frame to the stud. I think in Rod’s book he recommends sandwiching a ½ inch layer of compressed insulation (203) between the frames? Then I assume screwing through the door frame at multi points into the stud. Any other thoughts

Hi Lil, My doors are the regular hinged type, but... I put up the gyprock over the door opening first, then cut the unwanted gyprock around the opening with a saw. This allows for a single sheet of gyprock with no joins above the door etc. Same for windows. Then added the maple door frame. Of course my door opening wasn't perfectly straight or plumb so needed packing with thin wooden wedges (made just with pine on the drop-saw) at a few points around the door frame - the frame temporarily nailed at a few points till the wedges were right, then nailed properly (and that was the same for windows too). Any gaps between door opening and the door frame I stuffed well with rockwool and put acoustic caulk over that. That will be covered by a maple "architrave" - when I get around to it :) Hope that helps some, Geoff

Yeah thanks, thats great. But , this door is 150mm (5.9in) in wide but my studs are 120mm (4.7in) so I want be able to plasterboard over the frame. Will just have to get it as close and square as possible.

You could also put the frame centered (widewise?) so its 15mm on each side. The frame itself will serve as a molding. But obviously try it first before nailing it to see how it looks

mmm, will do. :D

On a different note- Can I go with six dec side slat walls? or slightly increase it to 9ish. And, In scott's studio( johns studio pages) it look like he builds his soffits and slat walls over the laminated flooring? Is that right, or should I cut back the flooring and build directly on the slab.

Deanne - what are the dimensions of your sliding door?? Yes - build directly on to the concrete and add the laminate floor as the last thing - you then don't need flooring under the riser etc or under the speaker frames etc.

I got the smallest door I could get. There would be anything but ppl and guitars coming in and out. 1500wx 2200h I measured the opening last night 680mm Tight but, with the angled slat wall and riser thats the best I could do.

Lil, looking at that diagram, it seems that your "head" position is at about 50% of the room depth :shock: Your ears are going to be in every possible odd-order null and even-order peak known to man! I'd strongly suggest that you change your speaker angles to more like 90 degrees (instead of 60) in order to get your head closer to the front, and away from the dreaded 50% position, which is almost exactly where you are right now. If you go with a 90° speaker axis intersect angle, then you should also splay your walls more. 9° should work. That's what I'm using. It looks like you have pretty much the same problem I do: room geometry prevents you form using 60 degree axis intersection for your speakers while still keeping them far enough apart to get a decent image and also getting your head close the "holy grail" 38% mark. I checked this with John a long time back, when I ran into my geometry issue, and he suggested the 90° angle, which is what I did. The geometry works MUCH better for me now. My speakers are far enough apart for a decent sound stage, and my head is in a much better location, around 40% of the room. - Stuart -

something like this Deanne?

Stuart- ah I knew I'd forgoten something.. the 38% line. thanks 90 doesn't look much better though at that 38% point? Thanks John, the glass door is in a different spot. But I get the idea, Is there any problem with cut off the slat wall short, to allow the door to be part of the rectangle frame? Bit like this-

It shouldn't be a problem as it's past your listening position.

90 doesn't look much better though at that 38% point?

Well, yeah, but you moved the speakers way over into the corners, by the looks of it! At least, your 90° lines go through the room corners, while the 60° lines go through the ends of that "T" shape line at the front. If you slide your 90° lines forward so that they also go through the ends of the "T", then your head should be much further forward. In fact, you might not even need to slide the 90° lines forward that far. You might hit 38% before you get there, which is good because it means your speakers are further apart. And of course, don't forget that 38% isn't written in stone! Just a guideline... - Stuart -

Heres' the door. I have installed it directly to the studs, left and right. But due to some bad addvice from the "door man" allowed a 20mm space on the top. Which I will have to pack :oops: I had the door made with no latch or handle, so I need to look into a low profile plate type opener, and try my hand at some routing. The seals look pretty good, but I won't be able to tell till the rest is sealed up and I can do some tesing. I also had to move in my computer desk as IT IS HUGE and very heavy. It went in before the door went up. If I ever need a change i will have to chop it up in the studio and take it out in pieces! Next- last wall of plasterboard then on to the dreaded ceiling.

I also had to move in my computer desk as IT IS HUGE and very heavy. It went in before the door went up. If I ever need a change i will have to chop it up in the studio and take it out in pieces!

Lil, this might not be the time to mention it, but you might find that the individual doors can be lifted out of the frame without too much trouble, perhaps with some minor disassembling of some of the mounting hardware, such as removing the guides at the base, or on the rail. In which case you can take both doors out, leaving only the frame in place, for tasks such as moving "huge and very heavy" furniture in and out. Maybe you could check with the manufacturer, to see if your doors can be removed form the frame easily... - Stuart -

Well yes! Some times common sense isn't so common. :roll: When I bought my house I tried to put the desk in the spare room/ temporary studio and I couldn't even get it close to going in the house. Plus I truely believe it is made of lead. This time I had to buy a trolley. More pics- here is a C/U of the door and lintel. I went with black cloth on the front. You can see the noggens through the cloth due to the flash.

Finished the last wall !!! YAY!! Mud, tape and caulked bottom plate to slab. Will finish it off with some skirting board. Only really need to paint the 1m section that will be visable after the drum room is built. Pics backwards- sorry I ended up using all the left over pieces of Plasterboard for the top section. Which leaves me with more than enough for the ceiling and maybe even a start to the vocal booth

What's new? :lol:

Nothing! It's too cold to work at the moment. I did put up one ceiling joist by myself. Don't recommend it. Not good for the back. :cry:

Little update- (sorry no pics) 1) Finished lifting the ceiling joist into place and fixing off with a tri-way bracket. 2) Purchased two identical 2nd hand doors from a demo yard for a cool $340 Which compared to the $1400 I spent on the sliding door, this was a real find. the 2 doors look like there from a school, large double glaised window in the top half. I will fit them in the smaller booth. 3) Framed, plasterboarded and taped two of the booth walls. Getting much better at it! Question- I will need to build frames for the doors. This will be a 1st for me, so should I utilise the bottom plate at all for the door frame? Or just cut it away and build frame independently? Also what size timber should I use for the door frame? 20-40mm?

40 mm as you'll have a heavy door to hang, plus it looks better :)

Great thanks.

Sorry John, I'm angling this wall 12 deg. should I do any thing different to the end studs? Shown in red.