Lilith_envy studio diary

Thanks John, thats the one I was looking for.

Hey Lil - Looking great gal! Keep 'em coming. :wink: Forgive the 'chime-in' but: Elliot Wrote:

Yes Lou and I will attempt to catch up for a studio tour (I am drooling already to see 2 x Tascam DM4800s slaved - I use one myself and it is the most amazing desk IMHO (the old analogue 2442 sits under the stairs collecting dust). Then stonehenge is 30 mins up the road and the pub is just over the road from Lou's - sounds like a marvellous day. I will have some family with me and Lou may be busy with bookings but hopefully we will at least get to say hi and have a quiet one over the road.

You need to lose the words 'attempt to' there my friend. :wink: If you guys can check into the Travelodge opposite for a couple of days, we can do Studio stuff first day, and if you'd like I'll pick you all up in the morning, take you to Stonehenge, and then on to 'Avebury Ring' which is another 20 mles up the road and an even older Neolithic Monument. Great place for lunch! (Totally cool if you want to go it alone of course). :wink: Regards, Lou. 8)

lilith_envy wrote:

I am the man! In pic 3090054 you can see the 120mm over hang(left side) of plasterboard/drywall that will in theroy home with the long wall. I'm just trying it out as an experiment. The corner will be completely un-accessable during the build. Also did you know there is another website for studio builds! Called studio tips 8) I found a great pic of a ceiling design (below) and will go this. I'm not going back to the web site as this one eats up way too much of my time! Anyway in this design the rafters only run 3/4 of the way to the outer top plate. With additional timber boxing the whole ceiling in.

HA! Thanx.... my build eats WAAAAY too much of my time too!! :D I haven't been too active over here for awhile, but I refer folks over here all the time. It was kinda' spooky to see a pic of my CR framing in your thread, but hey... If it helps anyone out... that's the whole purpose, right? Just to be sure it's clear, the rafters go all the way to the end of the top plate, less the thickness of the banding board. Overall, your build is lookin' good!! Keep up the good work, and hope you enjoyed your time off!

Hi all , not a studio update as such. But on the weekend I picked up a Shure brown Bullet Mic model 9846B. from a car boot sale. Talked her down to $40. I'm going to use it as a talkback mic in the studio. great find

every harp (mouthorgan) player is going to be envious. ;)

Cool! Now all you need is a real dynamo telephone, and candlesticks for your lighting, to complete the medieval atmosphere! :) Maybe put a horse trough out front, too... :lol: (Sorry! Couldn't resist the dig! Great looking mic, by the way...) - Stuart -

And don't forget those chickens!!

How can I, they are the most annoying animal!

Haha Yes!!!! Sweet mic too Lil

lilith_envy wrote:

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How can I, they are the most annoying animal!

yes - but they make good pets :) and good casseroles. what more could you want. :)

:( I don't eat chicken john! It tastes like chicken

Ha, I'm a sticky! and a senior member! I've just had a "big" birthday and thats not helping ...senior..>grumble! Ok, I ordered a timber sliding door, 10mm lami glass with rubber seals.....$1400 ouch! I'll look at something different for the 2nd one. Also order 170 x 45 Hi span timber ceiling beams and 2.5 soundscreen isulation. Hoping to be finished the shell in 2 weeks.

Congrats Lil!!!! Place is lookin sexy too!!!

lilith_envy wrote:

Ok, I ordered a timber sliding door, 10mm lami glass with rubber seals.....$1400 ouch! I'll look at something different for the 2nd one.

Can I ask for specifics on this door and what sort of sound transmission ratings it gets? I'm researching materials at the moment and will probably be looking at similar suppliers. Good job on the build too.

Progress! :yahoo: Way ta go!!!!!

Drummer wrote:

lilith_envy wrote:

Ok, I ordered a timber sliding door, 10mm lami glass with rubber seals.....$1400 ouch! I'll look at something different for the 2nd one.

Can I ask for specifics on this door and what sort of sound transmission ratings it gets? .

check out the seal features in this aluminium sliding door. It rates at STC32 with 10mm plate glass.

Im lost, is that bad?? haha

:) I'm hoping that the timber frame will act as mass more so than the aluminum sliding doors, which are hollow. I have the specs at home and will post tomo. lil

It was the seals I was pointing out - it is the same for either timber or Aluminium.

Yes thats the 1st time I've understood that diagram. Could never work out what I was looking at. Thanks John for adding the "glass" text. I can always add or alter the seals later if the STC is not sufficient.

Just a quick update. Bit the bullet and ordered 6 solar panels DJ-170 and a small inverter. love the idea of running a "green" studio. The Aussie goverenment is giving a $8000 rebate so it works out pretty cheap. Still waiting on my sliding door! So decided to lay the flooring and start banging in the rockwool. pics.This is the 1st load of fluffy stuff I got, but didn't like it. Have moved on to Sound screen rockwool. Makes a huge difference to the deadening of the wall.

Jealous!!! :)

me too! :(

Hi all, Short update and some questions- sorry no photos My very expensive door arrived yesterday.And I’m not impressed. The door in basically un-finished. Bare wood with “no more nails” oozingout of a few of the joins. The glass has been installed by what I would call a dry install. With just wood strips holding it in place. No visible signed in caulk or rubber beneath the glass. Obviously the high cost relates to the lami glass NOT the workmanship. Q1- Should I apply a thin, neat strip of silicon or black acoustic caulk to one or both sides of the glass-frame joins?Q2- Should I bother vanishing or waxing the raw timber. Q3-As I’m building directly on the on the slab. What should I lay under the door frame. I have Wide/flat backer rod type material (expansion joint) or the laminate flooring underlay (3 in 1- moisture, temperature, cushioning ) or some thing else? Q4- Joining the frame to the stud. I think in Rod’s book he recommends sandwiching a ½ inch layer of compressed insulation (203) between the frames? Then I assume screwing through the door frame at multi points into the stud. Any other thoughts Q5-the door frame is 150mm wide, my wall is 120mm wide + 16mm plasterboard. I was thinking of installing the door flush to the inner wall. Finish off the inside with some “nice” timber strips to hide the cloth and staples. This would leave 30mm over hang on the out side, which would have the plasterboard butted up to it. I could also use it as a sort of shelve to attach some sonex (14mm). That would finish off the “look” between the rooms. Hmmm, I think that’s it.

Q1- Should I apply a thin, neat strip of silicon or black acoustic caulk to one or both sides of the glass-frame joins?

If you feel there's leak I would - a small hole the size of a nail hole can ruin the STC.

Q2- Should I bother vanishing or waxing the raw timber.

definitely - untreated timber will easily stain and you can't remove it.

Q3-As I’m building directly on the on the slab. What should I lay under the door frame. I have Wide/flat backer rod type material (expansion joint) or the laminate flooring underlay (3 in 1- moisture, temperature, cushioning ) or some thing else?

I'd put a vapour barrier and the laminate flooring underlay should serve the purpose well as well as sealing the join.

Q4- Joining the frame to the stud. I think in Rod’s book he recommends sandwiching a ½ inch layer of compressed insulation (203) between the frames? Then I assume screwing through the door frame at multi points into the stud. Any other thoughts

I would hope you have measured your space correctly so shouldn't have to fill to much. Just make sure the drywall seals right up to the door frame and seals all the way around.

Q5-the door frame is 150mm wide, my wall is 120mm wide + 16mm plasterboard. I was thinking of installing the door flush to the inner wall. Finish off the inside with some “nice” timber strips to hide the cloth and staples. This would leave 30mm over hang on the out side, which would have the plasterboard butted up to it. I could also use it as a sort of shelve to attach some sonex (14mm). That would finish off the “look” between the rooms.

can't quite follow that last question - maybe some pics??