Lilith_envy studio diary

Problems- Concrete contractor!! After raising the frames there is a rather larger gap under the left edge. About 10mm drop just in that corner of the slab. It will affect where the two walls meet. I will go in to Clark Rubber as per Johns suggestion and find some rubber.

Wow! Those inside out walls seem like a job to do! But you got it going. As they say here, you da man!

I am the man! In pic 3090054 you can see the 120mm over hang(left side) of plasterboard/drywall that will in theroy home with the long wall. I'm just trying it out as an experiment. The corner will be completely un-accessable during the build. Also did you know there is another website for studio builds! Called studio tips 8) I found a great pic of a ceiling design (below) and will go this. I'm not going back to the web site as this one eats up way too much of my time! Anyway in this design the rafters only run 3/4 of the way to the outer top plate. With additional timber boxing the whole ceiling in.

Yes, I have heard of studio tips. I get involved in where I am at too, so there is usually no reason to leave unless requested to do so ;) I would bet money that the picture you are showing is from the build Mad Max is doing at recording.org, he lives a few states North of me. I have watched that thing develop for 2 years and would know that fire caulking job anywhere!! edit: Yep, there it is, about half way down the page: http://recording.org/ftopic-21631-days0 ... c-390.html It is the ONLY build going on @ recording.org...so you tend to remember these things :)

hmmm?? Yes I see. I wonder if you need to plaster all the way to the top? Sealled correctly wouldn't 120mm Pine frame work as well or better than 16mm plasterboard? [edit-stuffed up wording]

Lil are u still building all this without a gun?

YES! I finished another frame last night. boy O boy is it FUN! I might have a little helper next weekend. She has just finished a carpenter apprenticeship and owns all the tools. Go Girl power! I ran into another problem- the bench/drop saw I bought doesn't cut the 120mm timber standing on edge! The roof line is at 15 degr which is a real bugger to do with a circular saw. But I'm getting there.

Lilith, Looks like you are on your way :) cool! The wall and caulking look wonderful!. Just remember that each completed ceiling section will be lifted into place on a slight angle to get them between the beams. So a little gap above the studio roof is an advantage :) I am unsure of what your question is meaning at top of this page - re gyprocking all the way up? Can you elaborate please? For a simpleton like me - ta. If I am comprehending your quiz you don't need gyprock everywhere. The timber does a great job as well - mass is mass ;) All the best and "go girl!" Hope your carpenter friend can help move things along - it is even more fun doing the build with friends. Cheers El (SideShow @ SongCave Studios)

lilith_envy wrote:

YES! I finished another frame last night. boy O boy is it FUN! I might have a little helper next weekend. She has just finished a carpenter apprenticeship and owns all the tools. Go Girl power! I ran into another problem- the bench/drop saw I bought doesn't cut the 120mm timber standing on edge! The roof line is at 15 degr which is a real bugger to do with a circular saw. But I'm getting there.

We might have to all chip in and get you one at your rate, haha. As they say in my neck of the woods, you're a savage!!!

Hi sideshow, Sorry I went back and edited my mis-wording, yes your right Ther is no ned to platerboard all the way to the top of the cieling joist if there's a solid 120mm timber frame closing it all in. The ceiling is a real worry for me. I was thinking of having everything done but the final platerboard on the top and then just reach over the sheets too screw them home. One sheet at a time till I get to the front wall where I have full access from outside the studio in walk way.

Framing of 3rd wall finished. I had to raise the other frame to make some room, tied it to the roof with a temporary solution. Finding space has been a constant head ache. This new frame has been the best work so far, but the spacing of the centres didn't match up with one of the peaks in the cieling line (see pic) I don't think this will be an issue as the rafters will sit directly above the wall @ 600 centre, so there will be no load on this join. Comments???

OK To make the ceiling you need to make light frames which fit almost snugly to the inside of the ceiling joists. Whilst the frame is on the floor - you cut the gyprock to cover the top of the frame and glue/screw in place. Once dry lift the frame up on an angle between the ceiling joists and have a friend hold in place (timber frame section facing down - plaster on top.) You can then nail or screw the frame to the inside of each joist. We hired a nail gun and bought industrial earplugs. The space between our ceiling joists was the width of the rockwool + 2 x the frame width. Once nailed I applied sound check to the inside corners of each frame and slipped the rockwool neatly into each frame - the frame actually holds the rockwool in place. I think I have a drawing of the ceiling plans on my build. Cheers El

Hey Lilith, way ta go, girl! Progress! One comment: On your "ceiling peak" photo, there is a 2x4 with a very nasty looking knot in it. I don't think I'd use that piece if I were you. That knot will bring you trouble, sooner or later. I'd suggest that you replace that chunk of wood with a better chunk, and then use the knotty one for smaller pieces elsewhere. All except for the knot, of course. - Stuart -

Ok thanks, I never even thought of that. Hey can you read my post in the wiring section please. lil

Sideshow wrote:

El (SideShow @ SongCave Studios)

so you are going to meet up with Lou and see Stonehenge - Cool :)

After a monster effect with my mate to get the huge 3m x 4m wall off the ground to about belly button height. I decided to go to the local hire guys down the road and get a good old fashioned Chain Block. I use them all the time at work winching lighting truss, but there are ssooo many uses for them! Once the wall was up and secured. We re attached the block to the side of the wall and slowly slide it into place...perfect. Then couldn't sleep all night worrying about what might have went wrong. any hoo, caulked and sealed power pulled through to points. Now I just need to find those pictures of the sound proof GPO's

And you managed all that without a single chicken in site? :) Nice work! It's so good to see progress... - Stuart -

Lilith, Looking good! Keep the updates coming! John, Yes Lou and I will attempt to catch up for a studio tour (I am drooling already to see 2 x Tascam DM4800s slaved - I use one myself and it is the most amazing desk IMHO (the old analogue 2442 sits under the stairs collecting dust). Then stonehenge is 30 mins up the road and the pub is just over the road from Lou's - sounds like a marvellous day. I will have some family with me and Lou may be busy with bookings but hopefully we will at least get to say hi and have a quiet one over the road. ;) El

Does any-one have a suggestion on GPO's or point me to another post?

Lilith, Why do you need sound proof GPOs? Is that your question or are you asking about how many/where you need em? cheers El

Where the cables run in through the layer. into the outlet- wont sound get in and out there?

Yes use firesound in and around the single cable entry. If you bring 240v in via a single hole in the timber at the top of the wall it is a lot easier to plug (and more thickness). BUT on page 1 of your post you already have 240v conduit inside the studio coming in under the floor. The GPOs mount to the vertical timber frames via steel backplates/brackets. The bezel front (where you plug in) only protrudes through the cloth. That is if you are still going for inside out walls? El

thanks, Yes inside out walls. Only the internel GPO-desk and rack run under the ground. I'm thinking of a few wall mounted ones for general things. So I'll just fill the hole up with caulk and next time come through the studs not thdry wall :oops:

It's OK, bring your cables through the existing gyprock hole and have fun with the sealant! No point making another hole except for audio and data - which you are keeping seperate. You can have seperate circuits for the GPOs on the walls and seperate circuits for the rack and desk etc (which is probably what you had planned anyhow). Unless of course you wish to have a trough cut in the concrete from the rack to the wall to run cable for the wall GPOs. Probably a bit extreme. Remember to run some cat5 ethernet cable from room to room as well as audio cable. Then you can have modern amps in iso room controlled by foot controller in control room. ;) El

Deanna - check the attached pic - it's a US outlet but the principle is the same. Sounds great El - hope you have a great time in the UK :)