Doors & Windows

im currently working on drawings to convert my garage into a semi-pro studio and im looking for door and window details. can anyone point me in the direction of some or does anyone have any typical ideas?

Yup, this is the right direction. Best investment you'll make for your studio. And it'll save you a LOT of time searching for answers (and make sure the answers you get are the correct ones), and a LOT of money on the construction. Cheers.

I'll second that recomendation.

i will third that. i just received my copy on monday of this week and haven't been able to pull my eyes away from it during the evenings. it's an exceedingly well put-together book custom built for folks doing what we're trying to do. -= george =-

Read... Door seal - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#70907 Latch - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#69258 Window Glaze - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#68861 Window Angles - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#68066 http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#68064 http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#68024 Glass Mass - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#67261 Window Frame Material - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#67239 Hinges - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#66838 http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#66834 http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#65764 these are all by searching a couple of respectable usernames on the forum. You could search on threads with high post counts for complete projects and find multiple angles on particular projects.

so, who fancies scanning in the door and window details and pdf-ing me them? lol but seriously, back to the build: im definitely gonna have an inner and outer door, solid timber, rubber seals, extra lining to the inner door blah, blah, blah... but what should i do about the windows? im not sure if i really want to go to the expense of buying 2 windows. how else have people came up with good isolation in and around this area? cheers. - posted before your reply Cram, cheers!

any comments on the following:

I'm not sure if i read your plan correctly, if not please accept my apology. From what i can see you plan to use the room within a room design, fine. But the way things are on your plan your ceiling is hard coupled with the outer leaf and rendering the double wall assembly almost pointless. If you're not building another ceiling on top of the inner walls the you must use some decoupling mechanism for your ceiling. Then there is the light issue, building a so called "soudproof" :wink: room requires all component of the assembly to be airtight, very hard to achive with some 4" hole in the ceiling here and there. If your don't want to put your lights surface mount, what would be the best idea, then you can built some iso boxes around the lights fixture inside the ceiling. Make sure the fixture in question can be placed in a closed sealed box without any air circulation around it before actually doing the work, otherwise there maybe is a risk of fire. My 2Cents

good points! cheers. see, ive got one half of an existing detached double garage so, the main structure is already there. i couldnt really drop the ceiling any further (for the floor i have thought of laminate on board underlay on plywood on 50mm timbers with rockwool between). could i maybe use a different floor makeup and use the floor timbers for a new ceiling?

for the floor i have thought of laminate on board underlay on plywood on 50mm timbers with rockwool between).

I understand that it's not your intention to built a wooden deck floating floor, but it's almost that you are going to built. And let me tell you, it is a very bad idea. Have a read here : http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8173 For your ceiling you can use RC channels to decouple sheetrock from the building structure without loosing much height. Keep reading regards

ok mate, so i could probably get away with just the floor finish and underlay? btw, what do you mean by RC Channels, reinforced concrete?

elektrasoul wrote:

btw, what do you mean by RC Channels, reinforced concrete?

RC == Resiliant Channel There are several grades like RC1, RC2 etc... Albeit, redundant to say RC Channel...

Ok, so if I were to use these resilient bars, would they require to be placed above the proposed internal blockwork? Also, whilst searching these channels I found that they can be used on walls. I could gain more space inside the room using the RC’s straight on to the existing masonry walls (possibly on the floor aswell, if required?), but how would that idea affect the door & window details? The more I research the more confusing its becoming! Lol Also, how would the cost measure up?

I think you would still need to use some sort of framing before the Rc to house your insulation. If its not structural you may consider using metal framing, its cheap and easy to use an fit. I used Lafarge Cormet studs but there are a load of other makes, Sheffield insulation make there own and the larger B & Q's (like new craighall and the new one at Hermiston Gate) Also stock metal framing systems. You will probably need to go to a Building supplier to get RC's, I used Sheffield Insulation for my insulation and they were pretty clued up. Also in Edinburgh The Thistle Timber Sales manager known his stuff as well. cheers Alan

i thought i could just insulate between (& above), and fix the rc channels to the existing trusses? b&q and thistle are literally 2 mins along the road from me, so ill probably nip in there at some point. the idea will probably be to get a company in to do most of the work though. btw, heres a screenshot of my flooring idea, but after reading previous posts it seems that there is no need for the insulation etc. could i get away with just laminate & board underlay, thus giving more headspace for rc channels (+ maybe rubber/timber)?

Also, whilst searching these channels I found that they can be used on walls. I could gain more space inside the room using the RC’s straight on to the existing masonry walls (possibly on the floor aswell, if required

Yes RC channels can be use on walls But not in the way you implied above they would not be very efficient. See it like this, true double frames room withing a room is the best for isolation, RC channels are a compromise where for some reason we can't built a double frames assembly. Height considerations, load considerations, space ect... RC's are not as performant as double walls assembly., so stick with double frame where you can. Obvioulsy this all depends on the isolation you need. And no you can't use that on floors.

The more I research the more confusing its becoming! Lol

I've been there too, and still confused on some issues :?

i thought i could just insulate between (& above), and fix the rc channels to the existing trusses?

That's it ! Wich brings us to the next question, how's build your building roof, metal sheets, fiberglass sheets, Plywood ?

after reading previous posts it seems that there is no need for the insulation etc. could i get away with just laminate & board underlay, thus giving more headspace for rc channels (+ maybe rubber/timber)?

If your concrete floor is fairly straight, seal it then, just put your laminate & board underlay directly over it. you'll avoid a low-mid nightmare :shock: If your serious about building this, get Rod's book mention earlier, it will answer 95% of your questions, it is a very well written, practical, easy to understand piece of work.

great responses again, thanks! yes, i am serious. it will be built asap, hopefully completed before the end of may. im working on warrant drawings now. i might even do a photographic diary thread! ;-) so, floor: slab perimiter sealed to new blockwork/bnoard underlay/laminate finish. walls: cavity/blockwork/double plasterboard. roof: insulation between existing trusses/rc channels/double plasterboard. door: internal + external - OK window: TBC - im thinking of having no window, but for selling on purposes, i dont know... regarding the book: i might just go and buy it now. wheres the cheapest place to get it?

floor: slab perimiter sealed to new blockwork/bnoard underlay/laminate finish.

I'm not sure about that, by "blockwork" do you mean framing ? I know we get anxious before starting construction, but please don't rush things there are thousand of little details that can affect the acoustic performance of your construction. Also, do not expect to rely on regular construction contractor to understand what you want to do.. they won't. Even with a detailed plan they will probably cut corners, thinking that this or that doesn't have to be done this way, affecting the performance of your built. Most of these guys see the plan as a guideline not something to tell them what to do and how to do it. From all the post we've got so far, i'd say that your not ready for construction yet IMHO. Get the book, read the reference aera :http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2125. There are other options beside the ones i gave you, get the whole picture before poking a nail, you'll never be sorry you did. You can ignore my warnings and it's fine with me, i'll still answer your post when i can. regards

by 'blockwork', i mean something like thermalite or besser block. masonry blocks. im gonna buy the book now! ;-)

Ok, that’s me bought the book. I just need to wait on it turning up now. While im waiting I want to get cracking with the drawings & build, so im wondering if I do the following then that would be the correct way to go? 1) Form a new opening in the side of the building and install the external door. 2) Brick up the existing garage door opening and install the window. 3) Install rc channels from existing trusses. 4) Electricity cable locations (trunking at later date) 5) Blockwork internal leaf (slab to u/s of rc channels) Hopefully once I get this done, itll only be the internal/insulation details to worry about?

elektrasoul wrote:

yes, i am serious. it will be built asap, hopefully completed before the end of may. im working on warrant drawings now. i might even do a photographic diary thread! ;-)

Here's a fun activity: Save that statement of estimation on this project. Then when you're finally getting around to treating the room sometime around July, 25 - you'll be able to reflect on the detail work that was not known about when you made this estimate... best of luck!

maybe someone can help me here. my new window (where the garage door used to be): i need to get a size of window to use (i dont want to use A.C. so a window will suffice, along with shutter doors on the inner leaf) and im also thinking about corner traps at the same time. this idea may contribute to the structural opening size. if you lot can check the drawing attached and see if youve got any other suggestions! thanks in advance ;-)