door seal

hi everybody. It's been a while since I've last posted because I've been hard at work on my studio. I heartily thank all of you who have responded to my previous questions, as your help has been a life saver! It's just me and one other dude doing EVERYTHING, so we work hard. So far, our results have been nearly unbelievably good! Amazing separation and good acoustics, and this is our first build! The question: We are having a bit of trouble with door seals. Some one here recommended the "type-M" door seal from JC whitney. I bought that, but it's rather big, and I am finding that my door just butts-up against it when it closes. Is the seal supposed to slip between the door and jamb? Is there a better/slimmer seal available? Finally, how much gap should I be leaving between the door and the jamb, using "type-m" door seal, or another product? Thank you for reading this. I mean it, your help has been a big blessing for us!!!

Leave from 1/8" min to 1/4" max clearance at the door jamb for the door. This runner should be just snuggly fit to the door - it does not need to pass by the side of it. The trim should then be fitted to the rubber to complete a nice looking assembly. Finishing the isolation through the use of magnetic weatherstripping makes it the best it can be. Look at the details at on this sheet: Sincerely, Rod

Rod, What a great resource that file is. Question: Do you recommend the threshold be attached to the slab directly(as in drawing) Or can it go over wood flooring as well? Any difference? A GC I spoke with said it "looks better" when the flooring goes through the opening. Thanks!

how do you stick the rubber stripping up there in the first place? glue? staples?

Folks, Initial attachment is with staples. The rabbett in the wood stop (wne nailed) is the final attachment. And note that I added another file identifying the remaining components. Rod

studio_drums wrote:

Rod, What a great resource that file is. Question: Do you recommend the threshold be attached to the slab directly(as in drawing) Or can it go over wood flooring as well? Any difference? A GC I spoke with said it "looks better" when the flooring goes through the opening. Thanks!

Drums, thanks. Obviously I recommend what I drew -I like the threshold - and when it's attached to the slab on one side only - that allows for easy movement through the isolation joint in the slab. You have a problem with that joint if the flooring runs through the opening. If you wish you can always rabbett the 2 edges of the threshold and let the flooring run just bareley underneath. Sincerely, Rod

Ah, Rod, you got ye original account back online?! Welcome to this forum :twisted:

Hi Rod, Quick question about the diagram you added to this post about the top of the door sill. I've got a double door construction that is completely separate at present. The 2 doors are sitting in their own frames mounted in walls on opposite sides of my isolated slab. This slab is floated on a 20mm rubber profile mat provided by CDM-UK. There is a 10mm rubber edging strip separating the screed in my "studio" room from the concrete in the stairwell area where the 2nd door and frame are mounted in the 2nd wall which is built off the stairwell concrete. In your book you say that the door structure is one area you don't stress about flanking (not an exact quote)? In the diagram on this post I notice there is a break in the top of the door sill filled with rockwool and then went I'm guessing is either backing rod or acoustic sealant? What do you recommend here and I'm guessing this break should go all the way down the sides of the structure to the threshold which I can see is fixed on only one side? Thanks for any help.