Please Help me - Building My Studio With Noise Isolation! ;)

I believe that I'll have a beer. (I also believe in Keith's belief that 2x4's on 24" centers will be fine for 2 layers of rock, unless you intend to balloon frame with 16 foot ceilings :wink: ) But I definitely, positively, absolutely do NOT believe in letting beer get warm... Steve

As far as the 24" O.C. would it be ok to make the interior tracking room 24" O.C. as stated, but the exterior 2x6x8 walls of the structure keep at 16" O.C.?? Also the interior tracking room will be the one thats built with 2x4x8's and have Green Glue between the 2 sheets of 5/8" drywall. Would this design work??? (also remember the exterior will still have a double layer of OSB on it then Stucco'd on the outside. I am hoping this does the trick so the neighbors who live 20ft away dont hear the drums and bass that much. Also...lets say my tracking room ends up being 19ft wide by 17ft deep room (we are still working on the designs) and has 8ft walls all the way around and a 15ft peaked ceiling, whats the total surface SQ FT I am dealing with in order to buy the right amount of green glue? :oops: I know lenth X width will give you base square footage, but what about the peaked ceiling area?? (dosent the slant/raise of the ceiling have to come into play here?) I Googled, but everyone just talks about simple L X W or L X W X H. I came up with guessing I would need about 4 cases>?>? :?: Yes?? No??? Thanks again AJ

As far as the 24" O.C. would it be ok to make the interior tracking room 24" O.C. as stated, but the exterior 2x6x8 walls of the structure keep at 16" O.C.?? Sure; just use unfaced fiberglass batts between outside frame studs, hold it in place with fiberglass pallet strapping, then put the strapping across the backs of your inner frame BEFORE you stand it up - place insulation between inner studs, add drywall... (several threads on drywall in the REFERENCE section) Also the interior tracking room will be the one thats built with 2x4x8's and have Green Glue between the 2 sheets of 5/8" drywall. Would this design work??? (also remember the exterior will still have a double layer of OSB on it then Stucco'd on the outside. I am hoping this does the trick so the neighbors who live 20ft away dont hear the drums and bass that much. With 2 OSB layers and stucco outside, 2 5/8 gyp and GG inside and about a foot air gap, you'll be in good shape - may not even be able to tell anyone's inside unless they have a pretty heavy foot... Also...lets say my tracking room ends up being 19ft wide by 17ft deep room (we are still working on the designs) and has 8ft walls all the way around and a 15ft peaked ceiling, whats the total surface SQ FT I am dealing with in order to buy the right amount of green glue? I know lenth X width will give you base square footage, but what about the peaked ceiling area?? (dosent the slant/raise of the ceiling have to come into play here?) I Googled, but everyone just talks about simple L X W or L X W X H. At last, someone who's as math-challenged as I am :lol: See if this sketch helps - if your ceiling is peaked in the MIDDLE it's still the same - 1/2 x B x H for EACH SURFACE... Steve

[quote="knightfly" Sure; just use unfaced fiberglass batts between outside frame studs, hold it in place with fiberglass pallet strapping, then put the strapping across the backs of your inner frame BEFORE you stand it up - place insulation between inner studs, add drywall... (several threads on drywall in the REFERENCE section) Thanks once again Steve, but your saying to insulate BOTH the exterior AND the interior wall with insulation?? I thought I would be ok with using unfaced between the studs on the Exterior wall and nothing on the Interior>?>? I'll change it if need be, and do both>? :wink: Also, below is the latest drawing. I am sure glad I am waiting till Spring to frame, because things change every day. I think I am getting real close though to how it is going to be now. I took away the walkway between the Studio and the house and just ran the Studio up against the house. This will give me 3 more feet of width. :D I do however have a couple questions, either because of my curiosity, or codes requirements. Maybe you guys can help me. (reference the letters on the picture below) A - Codes says I need a 2nd exit door from the building (tracking room area) to the outside. If I make it this way, would this design compromise the isolation much?? I will be using a metal solid entry door (or solid wood if thats better)>?>? B - Will this area suffice as a "sound lock" area if I leave the wall space (by A) open so they arent flanking? Also I will have about 3 feet above the tracking room ceiling between it and the actual roof. Will all this help with isolation? C - I will be putting an entry door at this location. This way people can come in off the driveway. It is however on a side of the building I can not see from the house, so I want it secured. I was planning on using a solid metal entry door here. I dont think Isolation from the control room should, or will be much a problem. I doubled the walls on the "B" side anyway just for M - A - M on the neighbors side from the control room. D - This is the existing rear garage wall. I guess its safe to assume that any control room sound that goes through here should isolate a bit within the garage area itself?? Again, I dont see any reason for any very loud sound in the control room area. E - Are these 2 walls in the tracking room splayed and angled enough so there are no parallel walls to worry about? I guess after its built, I will also be using absorbers and traps in the corners and walls as needed. The excavator called today and wants to start digging Monday. I am not sure if I am ready that soon, but we will see. I have to get the plumbers in first to get the pipe in before the footers and slab gets poured. Today I pulled up and moved about 600 more bricks :evil: , relocated the gazebo and hot tub out of the way, which was wayyy heavy, and man the back is feeling it tonight. I hope to finish the bricks tomorrow so the area will be ready for excavating. Least I can get that part done before snow falls,,,,,then I will cover it till next Spring when the framing starts. Anyway,,,let me know whats up, and also if anyone can make the below drawing in a Sketchup design, (with any corrections of suggestions) that would be awsome!! I cant seem to get my sketchup to work (operator error I am sure) . I get basic framing done, but thats it. :oops: :cry: So I am stuck using Smart Draw 7. :roll: And finally, I came up with 4 1/2 cases of Green Glue that will be needed to do the job with the tracking room area! :D Thanks again AJ

Hey AJ, Nice thread you got going here. Nice to see some who can babble more then I, and even stay on topic. :twisted: I can address a few concerns from your last post, but not all. Also have some other concerns about your design so far.

insulate BOTH the exterior AND the interior wall with insulation?? I thought I would be ok with using unfaced between the studs on the Exterior wall and nothing on the Interior>?>? I'll change it if need be, and do both>?

That’s a yes, insulate both. All guides & ”how to’s” for building double 2x4 frame iso walls state insulate both frames. Each wall gets more dampening as a result.

I think I am getting real close though to how it is going to be now… E - Are these 2 walls in the tracking room splayed and angled enough so there are no parallel walls to worry about? I guess after its built, I will also be using absorbers and traps in the corners and walls as needed.

I just skimmed through your thread and could not find these things mentioned before. 1. Symmetry in CR is very important. 2. In CR always try to face the short wall, not the long the wall… especially in smaller rooms. 3. Side walls in CR should be off min by 12 degrees or splayed 6 degrees each. Room should get bigger toward the back. 4. In TR, Johns guide line is to throw parallel walls off by 24 degrees. How he comes up with complete designs seems magic sometimes. 5. Maybe a butchered version of Johns Small Studio In 3D http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5457 would be a guide for your design shape.

A - Codes says I need a 2nd exit door from the building (tracking room area) to the outside. If I make it this way, would this design compromise the isolation much?? I will be using a metal solid entry door (or solid wood if thats better)>?>?

Solid Metal Entry Door… hard to find one that is really solid, cost effective and not already two leafs. The best most cost effective option I’ve seen so far is surplus/old big heavy wooden doors and build your own door frame. Note I did buy a metal exterior door, need it for code, it's going to make my end double door assembly kind of triple leaf BUT I plan to make the other door a SUPER DOOR. Oh and yes every time you add a door you comprise sound iso some, how much depends on how much money you spend on the door and how well you install it. Some pro, studio doors cost $4,000 plus.

Today I pulled up and moved about 600 more bricks , relocated the gazebo and hot tub out of the way, which was wayyy heavy, and man the back is feeling it tonight. I hope to finish the bricks tomorrow so the area will be ready for excavating.

That’s it? You’re almost done moving things out of the way to build studio… I started moving countless things (a lot of things more then once) this past January and am finally at the stage to put up my exterior wall frames. My advice on SketchUp is spending some time with it just goofing to get the hang of it. There are a few little glitches to work around (at least with my version). And stay in 2D as long as you can, resisting the urge to see your project in 3D. Un checking “perspective” and “field of view” under Camera helps to keep it in 2D AND every now and then hitting “TOP” button (the view button looks like house top) will keep you off the 3rd axis which makes a 2D drawing a headache... cause (I’ve done this many times) a line gets drawn into the 3rd axis and then becomes a lot of work to correct. To check if you’ve gone into 3rd axis rotate a bit and then hit TOP again. Hope this all helps you out. Keep posting. Marc

Hey Marc,,,,Thanks for the reply. :wink: I'll try that with Sketchup. I think I need to reinstall it because it just seems like not all is loading upon bootup. I'll play with it then. And yes, I do have the art of babbeling :lol: I am not a builder, so I have a bunch of questions. I have learned plenty so far form this site and the books I have read. I am still fighting with the 2nd door from the tracking room, that I need per codes. I asked earlier about a single sliding door on the exterior wall. My latest question is, I see John uses double sliders between alot of the rooms in his sketchup designs. Would a double slider on the corner of the tracking room (as below) work?? Or would that really open up for sound to get through?? (if this would work, it would take me right out onto my pool deck which would be sorta cool) :D And I am talking standard slider patio door, since I dont have 4 or 5 grand for special doors for a home studio. (although I'd love to be able to afford them) :D Anyway, using double sliders as below, would that work or no?? And I guess I would have to get sliders with only one pane of glass in each of them, to keep the total of only a 2 leaf system>?>? If this would work, I would need to know before they dig footers. Sorry for beatng a dead horse with this 2nd door issue, but I am just trying to resolve the situation asap. They want to start digging footers. and I have to be sure I dig them right. :oops: Thanks again AJ

The double sliders would be beautiful... But unless you're willing to spend big big bucks, it wreak havoc on your isolation. Sliding glass doors: Great for saving space and lots of see-through glass, terrible for isolation. :( I also noticed that the splaying of your walls is not at a good enough angle to control flutter. I think the minimum is 12 degrees (or 6 on each of opposing walls). Or maybe that depends on the size and purpose of the room...? :roll: This is me pretending, badly, to know what I'm talking about when it comes to acoustics. :oops: --Keith :mrgreen:

I also noticed that the splaying of your walls is not at a good enough angle to control flutter. I think the minimum is 12 degrees (or 6 on each of opposing walls). Or maybe that depends on the size and purpose of the room...?

Pretending..... Keith, 12 degrees (or 6 on each of opposing walls), purpose (not size of room) = sidewalls of CR. 24 degrees off for all walls in TR is preferable, or so John says and designs all the time. AJ, I didn't "click" till you posted last diagram, I agree with Keith on the sliding glass windows. Have you posted your layout out in the design forum for John to see and maybe help? Curious too, I thought I read on here you're pulling a permit. Should you not already have approved plans before you start digging, including layout of entire addition. (my building department charges partial by sqft, plus code can vary size of addition, also the one thing my architect stressed was don't do anything till I have stamped plans/permit). Marc

Curious too, I thought I read on here you're pulling a permit. Should you not already have approved plans before you start digging, including layout of entire addition. (my building department charges partial by sqft, plus code can vary size of addition, also the one thing my architect stressed was don't do anything till I have stamped plans/permit). Marc

Yes Marc, I already got the approved permits for everything. But I told them that I will be changing some of the walls, and also might go with another plumber before its all said and done. They said I just have to make sure to run it by the codes officer who seemed very cool with all this. But i will be sure to confirm before any changes are done so I dont have to waste time and money on something just to tear it back down. So I guess the sliders are out :( I'll have to resort back to the previous drawing I guess. Its a shame to because the only neighbor I have to worry about is located 20ft away on side B of the building. I was hoping if I put the door(s) on Side D (totall facing away on the other side) it wouldnt effect the neighbors on side B that much. I guess once the sound is out, its out in all directions. :( O'well...back to the drawing board. I just need that 2nd doorway per codes from the TR. :evil: Or a very large openable window. :evil: I'll throw a post up in the design section. Maybe John can help me out. Thanks again AJ

Yes Marc, I already got the approved permits for everything.

Cool, just thought I'd ask on that one. With my building department it's a pain in the butt... revision is supposed to be submitted and approved before the change in work is done (I can't change either, my architect has to make change) BUT from experience (so far) I'm almost sure the on-site inspector either would not notice the change or for sure would miss a mistake. :roll: Maybe too, ask John what sort of isolation he gets from what type of double sliding glass doors. He puts them in studio's all the time. There may even be a few threads on this forum with iso of sliding glass doors as topic... I think I've read John talking about them somewhere. Marc

If you'll be using J-bolts set in your concrete to anchor your wall soleplates, then you'll definitely want to have your layout finalized before you pour. When your outer dimensions are finalized, you can dig though... And if inside wall placements are not finalized when digging starts, you can always dig the interior wall haunches with a shovel once they are. Yes, once the sound is out, it doesn't "play nice" and go straight. Well, maybe it does to a small extent... But in your case, no way. I had the privilege of seeing a very nice pro grade studio in Stockton where "sometimes" forum member Mike Klooster does work a year and a half ago. It's actually a nice custom 1960s home with some additions. Its tracking room uses sliding glass doors to the exterior. I think it's two sets. Anyway, we stood at the farthest end of the property and we were amazed at how loud the drums were in spite of them being closed. It amazes me that the slightly newer homes in the area adjacent to the lot tolerate it... Something about the studio being "grandfathered in" and that they couldn't do anything aabout it. That was an early and easy lesson for me: even the pros get it wrong sometimes, and failures can be big. I resolved then and there that my project's results would be far superior to that. Thankfully, with this forum and Rod's book, I imagine such failures will become far less prevalent. 8-) --Keith : mrgreen:

Great info guys. Yes it seems as though the codes and zoning officers here are pretty relaxed. But either way, my excavator just called about Monday, and I told him to hold off until I call Monday and talk to codes department and get their conformed ok on the new design. Well, that bites about not using the double sliders. That would have been very cool, but I cant have the neighbors hearing the drums beating. I will stay with the double room construction without any breach to its integrity, except the door into the control room, and the other door into the hallway area which will then lead to the outside through a 2nd door. I guess this door from the tracking room (door "A" in the upper drawing) should definetly be one of those "Super doors" huh? Well, today I moved my huge double wood pile on the side of the house so the backhoe can now get in, and I put up 4ft construction fence around the perimeter of the project as well. Now I have this huge flag dirt area/ mud pit where the studio will be built. :lol: Only other latest changes to the plan is, I/we just found there is actually footers below the florida room here at the house. That wasnt anticipated as most are just built on slabs in this area. Anyway, now we cant figure a way to realistically get the water and drain pipes through that, and then through the dirt behind that footer,,,then also through the block into the basement wall. This is the only way to access the basement and tag into the existing house plumbing. So we are scratching our heads :evil: . I think maybe I will just scratch the whole bathroom idea and save the hassle and save the $4,000.00. :cry: I am talking pictures most everyday, and there are very noticable changes happening. I'll post a couple then when I get them off my camera. I'll keep posting them as I progress. Hopefully by next June, i will have a semi finished very cool Home Studio. :D Finally (see,,here I am babbeling again) :D I started a post in the Design Section reference my design questions. Hoping maybe some will respond over the weekend. :wink: Thanks again for everything folks!! AJ

WOW ...What a day today!! Wife and I were out back looking over everything and I was buggin her for any last minute suggestions so I dont get a bunch of "you shoulda's,,,," afterwards. :lol: Anyway,,,we noticed with the new side door that has to be installed per codes, that if you walk out of that door off the new side hallway, and walk about 4 steps forward,,,PLUNK,,,you walk right into our rather large fish pond we have there. So,,,she looks at me,,,laughs (she get humor from all that needs to be done to make this Studio happen) :lol: :lol: but she laughs and says, "well honey,,,guess ya better get diggin,,,,you need to move that pond!".. The last thing I wanted to hear after Church when I was getting ready to watch my favorite football team on TV. :evil: Anyway, I accepted the challenge, and went to the other side of the yard and started diggin.,,,,,and diggin,,,,,,and diggin,,,, :roll: Make a long story short, the pond is completely relocated now. I had to finish doing it under the lights tonight because it was dark out, but the fish tonight are swimming around in their new home. The old pond was wheelbarreled full of dirt, which also took forever! :evil: Plumber (friend of mine) just called,,,said he was going to stop by tomorrow. I told him of the pond story and he laughed and said "all ya had to do was Nextel me, I woulda brought the Kabota up and dug it for ya in no time!" :twisted: Story of my life!! :lol: What a day its been!!!!! :? But my football team won again, so thats a good thing!! (even though I didnt get to watch them play) :roll: I do have pictures of all these things unfolding. Maybe later this week, I can get some posted. Also I am still waiting, and hoping for a sketchup idea under the Design Section. I worked with Sketchup again, and tried the suggested things, but still dosent work for me. :roll: I get walls everywhere and on all different planes. :oops: :lol: I guess the moral of this story is,,,,I might be about as dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to building and Sketchup,,,,but I am not afraid to work my butt off to make this Studio happen! :D :wink: Anyway, thanks again all, AJ

That's a funny story! :lol: It's great that your wife is so supportive. :) --Keith :mrgreen:

AJ, Glad you had fun with the wheel barrel and shovel. :D I can relate, glad I'm not the only one who has "missed something". I've moved to many things for my small room. I am surprised how quickly you're getting these things moved. ME, I would have looked at the fish pond, probably would have thought "well if I'm going to move/rebuild it, may as well make it better", spent more time and money to make fish, wife and mainly myself happy. Usually when I've moved a "thing" it causes other work too... be glad you're not messing with a storage area in your garage and have a baby on the way like me :twisted: if you can make it through all the babbling on my thread most of the "moving things, multiple times" is in there. I'm going to make an attempt at a design suggestion for your space. Don't be surprised if someone comes along and does a better job then me, I'll post on your design thread. No more bath right? BTW Gulfo (who posted on your design thread) is new to the site and has come up with some pretty good designs. AND... wish I could have made a trade with you... I've got 2 sliding glass doors, single pain glass that eventually I want to get rid of. Would have loved to trade these doors for you Florida room WITH FOOTERS!!!! I just had to add a footer to a patio (could easily be converted to a Florida room). Marc

sharward wrote:

Sliding glass doors: Great for saving space and lots of see-through glass, terrible for isolation. :(

Actually Glass itself is a great isolation material (great mass, about 2500 kg/m3. roughly 3 times as heavy as GB)

No more bath right?

Again thanks guys for all the responses. guitardad72, the plumbers are coming back out today to re-look the situation over. They along with the excavator think we can make the bath happen, and get the pipes ran. I'd like it that way when recording (especialy some of the people I may have in to reherse or record) in that those people arent running all through the house if they have to go to the bathroom. Plus the family dosent want the intrusions. Today they are moving in equipment to start the footers and clearing the area better. I guess I will have to finally just go with a 32ft X 21ft square pad. I will make haunches where the main cross wall with be between the control room and tracking room. Then after the pad is poured, I can still make changes as to the interior layout. You mention that you'll be putting up a sketch idea for me to look at. I really appreciate that! :wink: I dont think they will be dropping concrete for several days yet (until its totally ready that is) so I still have time to work some things in or out of the design yet. i havent got much feedback on my post in the Design area. :cry: Maybe they read on here and thought I was too much a rookie to try to accomplish this task. :oops: :lol: Well,,,,back out to the mud pit to play. Wonder what today will bring?? :P Like they say in the military..."Its not just a job,,,,its an adventure!" :lol: Thanks again AJ

You mention that you'll be putting up a sketch idea for me to look at.

YUP, and should add Time permitting. Plan was to draw last night but I ended up spending that time posting on several threads. I will still give it a go (unless someone else gets to it before me) How much room does the stair case (approxamite square footage) take up. Are you set on stairs being in the CR's space. Although really inconvenient it would be great for staircase to be outside or even in the TR or Garage (if feasible) or entry from house???? AS IS the stair case is taking valuable real estate of CR. It will not be the end of the world pouring slab before you finalize room plan, maybe just make the cut across haunch 3 or 4 times wider then usual. Won't hurt anything and compared to your entire cost of project, it would only be a small, small increase. BTW what's your guess on entire cost at this point? Marc

The stairs will be 3ft wide.....and they should only take up (being L shaped) about 7ft or 8ft on the back wall. The bathroom then will be like 5ft long but only 3ft wide to stay inline with the steps. The toilet and sink will be on the ends facing each other. :? (its what the plumber suggested for the space) It looks as though the bathroom will be a GO. The plumbers were here today, and said they will just have to cut out some of the garage floor and run the pipes through under there. They said its no big deal and will be 1 days work. (I am just having them rough in the plumbing for now) As far as cost, here is a breakdown so far as to what I got prices on: Diggin Footers, pouring the 6" foundation, laying the 8" blocks in that foundation, back filling, then pouring the 21ft X 32ft 4" think pad with #4 rebar thats 12" O.C. and fibermesh in the concrete,,,,, price for all is $5800.00 (He said will be less because I moved out all the bricks etc, and also said if I pay for the concrete when its delivered instead of running it through him, that will knock off 10% from the concrete price. HVAC - 1.5 Ton Frigidare Heat and AC Heat Pump Unit with electric back up,,,installed,,,$3000.00 Bathroom - To do the whole project, with all the piping, the ejector pump, and all the bathroom fixtures,,,,,$4000.00 (since I am only roughing it in, it will probably only be $800.00 to $1000.00 for now, then the rest later when I finish it. I priced the following at Home Depot (I know, DONT get stuff from Home Depot, especially lumber, but I just was pricing) They said they would give me 10% off everything since I am building an addition. (Contractors price) What all I priced included: All the 1/2" Plywood sheeting for roof All the Roofing paper and shingles All 2x6x8 for exterior walls All 2x4x8's for interior walls All 2x8x14's for interior tracking room ceiling All 2x10x14's Floor joists for loft All 2x10x14's for roof joists All 2x6x8's Pressure Treated Bottom Plates for walls All 2x4x8's Pressure Treated for interior wall base plates All 7/16" OSB exterior sheathing (2 layers)for whole building All R-19 insulation for walls All the R-10 insulation for under the pad (per codes) All the Interior and Exterior doors needed 12/2 Romex Wire 1 - 6ft Pella Sliding door (if I use that from the hallway to the outside) All the Sill Seal (per codes) All additonal lumber for headers and framing out windows and doors etc House Wrap for around structure All the 5/8" drywall for tracking room (double Layers) All the 1/2 " drywall for Control room and Loft area All Gutters and Downspouts Total thus far for the above is $ 4484.53 - 10%= $4036.00 So...so far its costing roughly: $13,836.00 (plus then add an additional approx $3000.00 for when I get bathroom finished) That price does NOT include the following: 4 cases of Green Glue Flooring covering (will probably use hardwood and carpet) The Stucco on the exterior Misc Electrical supplies (boxes, outlets, switches, plates, etc) The Roof Trusses for over the Tracking Room area. Painting as needed Windows between tracking room and control room (also between loft and tracking room) The R-38 roof insulation Ok...what am I forgetting>?? :shock: :D The bottom line is I have a budget of only about $22,000.00 +/- to work with. If I spend much more then that, the wife says I have to take her on a cruise! :roll: :lol: The incidentals (like even the electrical stuff and paint) I will pay for as I go, out of pocket, and not out of the proposed budget. A couple hundred dollars here and there will be no problem to cover out of pocket as I go. Ok...so,,,how far off am I and what MAJOR things am I forgetting?? :lol: :lol: Thanks AJ :wink:

studio911 wrote:

It looks as though the bathroom will be a GO. The plumbers were here today, and said they will just have to cut out some of the garage floor and run the pipes through under there.

That's great. :) Hey, any chance of a little shower in that bathroom?? :roll: We drummers can get awfully sweaty! :twisted: Even Stick's small studio has a shower going into it. 8)

studio911 wrote:

12/2 Romex Wire

Isn't it outrageous how expensive that is right now? :shock: You may need some 12/3 if you intend to run any 3-way circuits and/or split outlet runs. You may also want to look at star grounding. If you do that, plan on spending some more money on electrical.

studio911 wrote:

The bottom line is I have a budget of only about $22,000.00 +/- to work with. If I spend much more then that, the wife says I have to take her on a cruise! :roll: :lol:

That's hilarious! 8) "Honey, I spent too much money... So I guess we'll have to, uh, spend more money?" :lol:

studio911 wrote:

Ok...so,,,how far off am I and what MAJOR things am I forgetting?? :lol: :lol:

What kind of insulation will you be using? I'm known around here for being a big fan of Thermafiber Sound Attenuation Fire Blankets (SAFB) - Nominal Density (2.5 pcf), or the competitive Canadian product, Roxul Acoustical Fire Batt (AFB) - ≥2" (2.5 pcf). They perform a bit better for isolation than regular fiberglass, plus they're quite superior in their fire resistance. I got my hands on 3" x 24" x 48" Thermafiber SAFB locally for 55¢ per square foot, plus a flat $25 for delivery. The home improvement stores don't carry it -- you have to go to an insulation supplier and it might be a special order. --Keith :mrgreen:

and what MAJOR things am I forgetting??

-Acoustic treatment materials: Rigid Fiberglass, Fabric, 1x4 & other lumber and other nifty stuff for bass traps/hangers, speaker soffit, etc... -Maybe drum riser. -Maybe custom desk(s) -Couch for back of CR -Although under category of electrical: nifty lights for different moods inside CR's. Are you going for greater iso in TR than in CR? AND... Why are you bothering with 1/2" drywall? Combining different thickness improves iso in mid range BUT worsens in low end (TL) performance.

Flooring covering (will probably use hardwood and carpet)

Hardwood and RUGS is better. For fun, I'm going to take a wild guess, you're going to spend more then you're planning. You might hit 30K. Marc

So, will that cruise be Carribean or Norweigan? :-P

Actually we talked about that :lol: :lol: We agreed Royal Carribean would probably be the best one to take for us at our age. LOL Not till next summer though. (Hey,,she gets the cruise,,,I get to spend more money of Studio is how I see it!!) :lol: :lol: Anyway,,,WHAT A DAY!! Woke up this AM to excavators unloading a backhoe and 3 large dump trucks rolling in. :shock: It was officially game time. :D We spent all day diggin footers, diggin to grade and trying to make things work. The area is pretty much enclosed on 3 sides by my house, the neighbors house, and the back fence, so the backhoe operator had one hell of a time making the digs without getting himself trapped in the yard or project perimeter inside the footers. (I already had one backhoe operator with another company refuse the job because it was such tight quarters in and out) Anyway,,,mission accomplished. We got footers dug and rebar set!! :D I also had the luxury of relocating a 10ft high weeping pine tree because the wife "loved that tree". 3 hours later, it was in its new home across by the newly relocated fish pond. :D :twisted: Tomorrow at 9:30AM the Borough will be here for the first inspection (of the footers). :D :D Around 2PM today the sky opened up (first time in days) and the rain fell. Its supposed to rain off and on till tomorrow at noon, then clear and hit 70's, and nice the rest of the week. They said they are planning on pouring concrete Thursday for foundation,,,then lay the block Monday or Tuesday,,,then get the pad done later next week. WHAT A MESS my backyard has become!! lol :twisted: :lol: I have been talking pictures each day as far as the progression. I will start to post them tomorrow when its raining out. (tomorrow is to be my first day off within the last 7 days from starting this project due to rain,,,,will be a good catchup day) One cool thing today was, I was the Fire Chief in this town for many years. The boys at the local Fire Station heard I started digging today, they drove by, and saw the HUGE mess in the driveway and out in the street from the backhoe and dump trucks (about 10 to 12" of mud),,,so later in the afternoon, they drove the Fire Engine to the house, blocked the street and off came the fire hoses. :lol: :lol: They had the whole area cleaned up in no time (saved me several hours with a garden hose). What a bunch of great guys huh?? :wink: :D Ok..enough babbling. Pics will be posted tomorrow. Thanks AJ

Ohhhh, mannnn, you're such a tease!!! :shock: What's this "pics tomorrow" nonsense?!?! :evil: Can't wait to see 'em! 8) --Keith :mrgreen:

Here are a couple pictures of the first week. Basically moving everything around, breaking ground, and getting the footers dug. It's raining out now pretty good, and I am waiting on the inspector to come out to inspect the footers. (First official inspection) lol :lol: The rain is to stop this afternoon maybe, and get nice out, so tomorrow they want to put in the 6" concrete foundation for where the footer blocks will go. Man,,,,what a mud pit out back. :twisted: :shock: :D Anyway, here are a couple pictures to bring you up to speed. Thanks AJ