Stockholm Studio Diary

Hi, I'll just post some pics and comments of the construction of the studio I'm currently building, some earlier posts to this is http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5407 http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5463 http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5565 first image was shot when I was a bit underway, so some explanations might be necessary; the floor was first covered with Platon, that will keep moisture away from the construction, the Platon goes about 10cm up on the walls. On top of that is 12mm thick particle board. Then comes the Vibratec Pucks which is the same as the ones which comes with the CDM system, they're glued onto 45mm thick studs and then it's filled with low desnity insulation. on this second shot you see the whole floor from inside the "office". You also see the first layer of 22mm particle board. Then we started with the Noisekiller Yellow..and it sure was yellow..glueing a second layer of 22mm particle board making a big fat sandwhich of it.

and suddenly all of the studs for the walls and insulation arrived and so did the gypsum..about 1000kg, thankfully my dad was there to help out.

and here's the startingpoint of the walls.. one showing the rubber that the walls are resting on.. I haven't been taking any more photo's since this last one but I finished the walls and added vinylstraps.. also the two doors were installed, one really good way of doing it is by bulding the wallstuds after fixating the doorframe, no leakage there...

no update for a month, just got back from Japan but started working on the construction again. Finsished most part of the Insulation, 95mm Roxull and started to put the first layer of gypsum in place.. the 3.5m high walls hurt my back and I guess I have to buy a gypsum-"lifter" or "elevator" or whatever you may call it in english to get them in place in the ceiling. so some pictures should arrive here soon. In the meantime I was wondering if anyone ever tried to install the electricity and mounting the multi cable and connectors AFTER building the walls or if it's a LOT more easy to do it before actually putting the gypsum in place. Also, what brands of multicables/boxes do you reccomend? best andreas

Hi Andreas, Vendor details appreciated for the Vibratec pucks. Do you have any specs for the ones you used? Regards, JPS

Check my other threads in the beginning of this one or just go to http://www.vibratec.se/ and download a catalog. I got the impression that the system called CDM is sold in many countries so you could probably get hold of them locally..(don't know where you from since you haven't posted your location). I got the 30mm LAT30, which is the softest one.. you should calculate the linear weight of your structure to get the number of pucks correct and of course you have to know what CC you should put them in. mine are 200mm cc under the walls and 400cc under the rest of the floor, so about 160 pucks for that room. best andreas

here we go! the first two shows the way I fitted the roxull and a corner of the room with the first layer of gyproc..

and here's one of the straps used for keeping the roxull in place and not letting it fall out when the gyproc is pushed against it..

so the final two pictures for this session; One is showing one out of two ventilation inlets/outlets that I've been consider getting fitted into the ceiling..but perhaps I just forget about it since the room is opened right into the yard. The other shows the fusebox that according to regulations has to be accessible from the front so I have to fit in a metal frame and lids for an isolated box around the fusebox. Or is there any other ideas about how to do this? best andreas

nifty pix :) Are ye sure you don't wanna replace that OLD fusebox? -> why not add it ON the sheetrock instead of inside the frame? (no big hole in your wall, only for the pipe/cable and much better reachable) What did u use for the straps that hold the isolationsheets? keep it up! ro

err, well I could do that, it's just a matter of money, as always, but perhaps I do that. The frame I bought is buildt for two layers of 13mm gyproc so that would work and I've been considering adding extra layers of gyproc ON TOP of those two layers that's slightly larger than the frame so that it plug the "hole" tight. I used a rubber strap, just like the ones used for fastening stuff on vehicles.. at least in Sweden..they're generally used on boats.. you probably know what I talk about, they're striped. best andreas

aah, those rubber thingies. thanx for the info, sounds like a good and cheap solution (Aren't you afraid they "run" out of strength or will retire? Unless the strain is not very tight, you might consider that. Good ventilation space between walls will help ofcourse.) About fusebox, also consider is SAVER to get up-to-date (and make your code inspector happy :) ) It'll cost you about 300 euros extra tho...

Yup that's the ones I've used, they're sure flexible so you have to be rather strong or preferrably two people getting them fixed without slacking too much. :shock: you could probably use something a lot more unflexible just to make sure they don't slack. There's acutally two separate fuseboxes for the building the one depicted is the one facing the "live room" and the other will be hooked up to the control room and the office.. but I can of course just get rid of this one and forget about it, or move it to the opposite wall where the second fusebox is located. A lot of possibilities, I just wanted to try out the cheapest or best way of doing this. I was told by my electrician that the option to move it will cost at least as much as buying a new one. best a

update, without pic's :roll: The ceiling is now finished and the first layer of gypsum is up (thank god for panel-lifters). I have now decied (and ordered) a new inspection door for the fusebox and will be putting it in as soon as the electrician's done. BUT before I can put up the last section of gypsum I have to decide on which cable/snake I'll use just to make sure the hole I drilled between rooms are big enough. (whirlwind is one brand up for consideration). The really really interesting thing that happened lately regarding the studio is the fact that the neighbouring studio is getting a real workover with floated floor and heavier walls, so Isolation on my side is getting less and less needed. But, I'm preparing for building a real heavy booth facing the other studio's wall. As soon as the last gypsum is up I'll do a quick isolation test and cross my fingers (nah not really) that it'll work. best a

Update (slow progress here, I know, not beeing lazy though) Got a Whirlwind 12/4 snake installed and tested, Installed all three doors and did a Sound Test after the first layer of gypsum was up and it sounded (or in this case not sounded) good, but I decided that we should put in the second layer so I started with the first lower half of the walls, I sanwhiched them together with the NoisKiller Glue. I still have to find a nice wooden floor that's less then 14mm thick. Hopefully the room will be documented better with pictures and so forth, it's just too dusty right now I don't want to bring my camera into that place yet..but hopefully things look better next week. a

Ok, here's some picture of the progress: This is one pretty bad shot of the second gypsum layer and here's a better one :lol: also showing a bit of the unfinished ceiling. this is the Whirlwind 12/4 cable going through the wall, prior to caulking. the doors inside the LR, took me some time to get them installed in the right way, I actually had to tear down a bit of wall to readjust one of the studs to get in level. 15 litres of Noisekiller's gone! but I still have some gypsum left... and as soon as get these instruments out of the way I start with the booth 8) best andreas

wonderfull! I'll mail you my post adress for the left-over gypsum ;) keep on rocking!

haha, well, it's for the booth. :lol: Tomorrow I'll install the new floor and do the last touches on the walls. But the real big challange is the ceiling; I'm considering building a lot of roxull panels and put them in different angles, trying to get rid of the parallel surface between ceiling and floor and also reducing a bit of low end. I guess I'll nedd a corner basstrap too... anyways, posting again as soon as something new has happened. a

As the LR is soon done I move on to the CR and I have this idea: Is this a good way to do it or would you do it in another way? I plan on putting a cloud in the ceiling and diffusing the rear wall to get a LEDE control room.. I want to keep the windows as I like to have some daylight. But the question is if it's necessary to angle some more walls and do I need more Helmholz resonators for that space... anyways, some small progress here and I also found this; "Swedac DG A2 Damping Glue is a water-based acrylic glue designed for the control of structure borne noise and vibration in sheet material and wood products. Such stiff materials require very little excitation to produce resonant vibration and it is quite easy to produce structure borne vibration which is reradiated as noise in other parts of a building construction. Just how big a problem the noise becomes is dependent on the overall Loss Factor of the construction. Typical construction materials such as plywood, chipboard and plasterboard have very small loss factors in the region of 0.01 to 0.03 - that is to say, very little internal damping. By means of Swedac DG A2 Damping glue, the loss factor can be raised to 0.2 to 0.4 - the effect of which is to provide a noise reduction of 8 to 16 dB. Use: Control of structure borne noise and vibration in sheet material and wood products." Would that be eqvivalent to greenglue? It's more than half the price of Noisekiller!! a

one question. don't you want to see the ppl in the two live rooms? otherwise, I like the idea of having the kitchen and bathroom in connection to the CR.

one question. don't you want to see the ppl in the two live rooms?

No, not really. I'm more interested in the way they sound.

therwise, I like the idea of having the kitchen and bathroom in connection to the CR.

Ah, well so am I, but really there's no other place to put the CR, at least I think there's no other way. a

Diffusion in CR - what's the approximate distance from the back of your head to the rear wall? Steve

Roughly 3.2 meters, but I could go as far as 3.8. Sorry, I should post the room size again of course.. the CR's maximum size is 4150 mm x 4820 mm but the angling of walls and the monitor wall will reduce it quite a bit... perhaps there's some exact size that I should work with to get a better frequency response. best a

Painted the walls 3 times :shock: and I guess I need a 4th round...well well. I also put in the floor today; pretty nice I think... a

ok, here we go! I got my arm back after 3 months in a cast locking my thumb in position. It feels great beeing free again.. but as some of you know I couldn't wait for it beeing removed so I got around building my studio console desk. you can watch that thread here http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8166 but now things are going faster and I finished the back wall. The wall is build as a slot resonator with an angle of about 8-10° and a pretty wide frequency absorbtion. The slats range from 70 to 160mm and the slots are ranging from 50-5mm. here's some pics: the first one showing the angle and the second one with the desk in place and a layer of Timberex oil. so the next step is the cloud and panels for the live room. best a :arrow: