WHAT Floats a Room?

Started by AndreasB on 16 January 2006. 7 replies.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 5463.

Ok, I found this http://www.ashikacommercial.com/cimage8/104116AV-plate.pdf it's an .pdf of something called Novibra Plate. I was told that this would float my room, which is 17.5m2 floor and 3.5m high, a calculation of the linear weight of the walls with the ceiling laying ontop of that gives me the number 230kg so I guess I have to devide that on the number of floaters I have to put on the floor. NB That is if I let the ceailing rest ONLY at the walls and without any attachments to the top-ceailing, so the weight could easily be reduced by taking that off.. So, my question is if anyone could look at this product and tell me if the 8mm double plate version would hold. Or if you had any previous experience with this product. This is by far the cheapest product I found but then again, does it work? :?: best regards andreas
This is also something I found that might be interesting (not for my construction, but maybe for someone else). http://www.nivellsystem.se best andreas
Andreas, I'd keep looking if you really feel you need to float your room; that stuff gives no durometer or hardness values, and is pretty thin - you'd need to use several thicknesses of it to make a decent "puck" and you'd need to glue the layers together. The ribbed part makes it even harder to anticipate what it will do under compression, so about the only way I can think of to make it work would be totally "cut and try' - not the best plan if you actually want your finished room to WORK... YOu're pretty close to where Sylomer is sold; I know it's not cheap, but how cheap is it to build something that won't work? :cry: Steve
Well, I talked to the guys at Vibratec (who i tend to rely on) and they told me that they sell something similar but that it wouldn't work, they said the same thing as you Steve. So I guess I'll go for the CDM L-30 pucks..they turned out to be costing exactly as much as the Auralex U-Boats, BUT they are reducing a lot more and they especially reduce that thumping structure noise from drums and bass.. I just found out that there's several rehersing spaces in building across the yard and yesterday I could actually hear them playing even though they were pretty far away and in a different building. So I guess the option to NOT having the structure floated is out of question. I did check up on Sylomer, but I couldn't make out what density I needed and in the end I'm pretty sure about the CDM's.. The walls will not be CDM since that system rely on the studs beeing bolted to the existing walls and I don't want that since it reduce the reduction :o Anyway, I'll try to keep you updated and perhaps I'll take some snapshots when I'm building and post it here. Just one more question though; how much is it for a 15litres bucket of Green Glue? Just to compare prices with noisekiller... best andreas
Ah, well the Noisekiller is sold on tubes too, but I don't have the current price on that. I presume that shipping etc. would make the green glue more expensive if not purchased in large quantities.. Vibratex told me that they are going to test the noisereducing qualities of NoiseKiller on sandwhiched walls in Spring as they still haven't tested it for anything but glueing floors. best andreas
It should work about the same; a floor is just a horizontal wall... :wink:
:P finally decided on the Vibratec solution and got the pucks today, very helpful people, I even got the right 'cc dimensions of where to put them :D It's the CDM 30mm ones and I'll simply glue them to the wooden studs. And on top of that I got the 15 litre bucket of NoiseKiller for the sandwhich! I posted a new question (since it might regard some others) about density of insulation. I hope someone has the time to check it out before I start to put it in there :? best andreas