Gleeman Studios Construction

nice job!

I bought resilient channel (RC-1) to be installed on my ceiling but am now having second thoughts. I need help deciding if I should use it or just go without. The walls are double wall steel frame construction but I think the ceiling may be a weak point. The ceiling consists of a layer of plywood on the upstairs side which I have beefed up with a layer or drywall. There is an 18” cavity and I am using r-19 fluffy fiberglass insulation. The joists are 20” OC and I was planning on installing the RC-1 16” OC with layers of 5/8” and ½” drywall. I have been reading that it’s nearly impossible to install without shorts and that even a single short will negate the benefit of using it. I’m also a bit worried about the RC-1 bearing the weight of 2 layers of drywall. I have already installed the RC-1 in my control room but I would be willing to remove it if people think the RC-1 is a bad idea. Would I be better off with just 2 layers of drywall and perhaps Green Glue? If I do end up using it are there any tricks to installing it? I can’t seem to find installation instructions anywhere.

Those are really nice silencer boxes. Now I have a simple question for the experts: do these boxes have to stand horizontally or can also perform efficiently when set on a vertical position? thanks in advance alex.

Resilient Channels: A Proven Liability : http://www.quietsolution.com/Multifamily_RC.pdf Just 'cause I like to be different...which is really difficult to do in a house full of people that just like to be different. http://www.dietrichindustries.com/produ ... _DMF07.PDF "Double leg resilient installation is typically used for ceiling applications with multiple layers of gypsum board." /quote Is there an echo ;)

What what. I read the “A Proven Liability” pdf while I think it raises some good points I find it suspect that it’s on a site selling a competitive product. I really wish the companies that make resilient channel would publish some info about their products. Still on the wall about using RC-1. I’m finding a lot conflicting views about using it.

There's some good posts (well, can anyone ever find a bad one?) by Rod on using RC on (double stud) walls. In general, don't. On ceilings, yes.

[quote="xSpace"]Resilient Channels: A Proven Liability : http://www.quietsolution.com/Multifamily_RC.pdf Just 'cause I like to be different...which is really difficult to do in a house full of people that just like to be different. http://www.dietrichindustries.com/produ ... _DMF07.PDF "Double leg resilient installation is typically used for ceiling applications with multiple layers of gypsum board." /quote Space, Quietsolutions is pushing much more expensive alternatives to RC-1 - so one would expect them to market how bad a less expensive alternative is. Contractors can prote ct themselves from liability by simply having field tests performed to prove the product prior to sales or tennancy (in the case of apartments) if they so choose - then anything that changes is obviously caused by the tennant or new owner. As far as the code requirements go - it's STC 50 min for apartments unless the test is in the field - then it's STC-45. And the key word with Dietrich is "typically"........ RC-1 is acceptable for 2 layers of 5/8" drywall - beyond that RC-2 is required. Sincerely, Rod

Let me explain. What matters is that there is a bill and it is alive that could be directly related to improper install. I know that 75 percent of statistics in any conversation are made up on the spot, fact remains, people install products incorrectly. Installing this specific product incorrectly leads to reduced or no benefit. edit: Plus, it has things to NOT do when installing It isn't about quietsolutions....

Well I passed my framing, mechanical and electrical inspections yay! I picked a ton of rockwool and had 190 sheets of drywall delivered. However it appears I did my walls wrong. I connected them directly to my trusses which I know from an acoustical perspective is not the best way to go. I felt more comfortable with them connected what with the heavy glass windows and doors. The real problem however is that my trusses are the prefab 2”x4” type and they are designed to deflect (bend). So you can’t build load bearing walls beneath them. So I have to redo all of my walls ahhh! It kind of annoys me that the 2 building inspectors and contractors that came by didn’t catch it. Rod caught this and has given me some good advice. Here is the thread http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3386&st=0&sk=t&sd=a I also contacted a mechanical engineer and he advised me to use a slip track to make my walls non-load bearing. I still figuring it all out but I’m going to have to do it quickly as all my drywall and insulation is sitting outside under tarps. In the meantime here are some pictures.

Jester wrote:

So you can’t build load bearing walls beneath them. So I have to redo all of my walls ahhh! It kind of annoys me that the 2 building inspectors and contractors that came by didn’t catch it.

That's news to me. As a matter of installation, it is recommended by manufacturers to first install a sheetrock ceiling to help bind the joists together and move as one. That is one of the benefits of these joists, freedom to place walls where one sees fit.

It was news to me as well! I was planning to be installing drywall starting last week. I talked to a contractor today who builds a lot of houses with this type of floor tress insist that building the walls like I did was fine. I’m a bit torn but I guess I will be redoing all my walls starting tomorrow. I talked to reps today and assuming everything goes as planned I will be picking up WIC sway braces and fast top clips tomorrow http://www.dietrichmetalframing.com/pro ... _20_21.pdf BTW has any one used the WIC braces and what spacing did you use?

It’s been a while since I have posted anything but I have been hard at work. After consulting with a structural engineer, a contractor, my building inspector and lots of advice from Rod I ended up redoing all my walls to allow for deflection. I used Fast Top Clips http://www.dietrichmetalframing.com/pro ... _20_21.pdf on all of the walls of studio 1, voc booth, and the airlock. The walls of the control room and studio 2 are no longer attached to the ceiling trusses at all but are instead attached to existing walls with WIC sway braces. I passed my inspection again. Here are some pictures of the insulation going in.

More Pictures

Here are some pictures of the drywall going up. All walls and the ceiling are getting a layer of 5/8" and a layer of 1/2". Since I am using slip track (fast top clips) I have to leave a gap at the top of each wall. It also means I am doing my ceilings last. I'm going to have to use some sort of trim and lot of acoustic sealer where the walls and ceiling meet. Seems like I have been drywalling forever! I finally finish a room and then I have to do it all again. Up until now I have done (with the exception of some of the electrical) all of the work myself. For the drywall I did hire a pro to help me. I also had a drywall party which ended in a mud fight. I'm almost done with my second layer of drywall and am just starting on the ceiling. I did buy a drywall lift to help and I'm so glad I did! I got a quote for glass today. My control room windows are 3'x5' and 3'x3' and each will have a pane of 3/8" and 1/2" glass. The quote was Annealed = $637.89 , Tempered = $841.10 , Laminated = $2266 I can't afford the laminated so I guess I'll go for the tempered.

Drywalling ceilings is more fun then being beaten with a 2x4 but only barely! After reading about everything that can go wrong with RC-1 I really didn't want to short it out by hitting a joist. I put chalk lines marking where my joists and my RC-1 were. I took a lot more picture of the ceiling but I can seem to find them :( I did 3 coats of mud to finish the walls and ceiling. I had never mudded before so it took a lot of trial and error (ridicules amount of sanding) to get it looking right. I'm so Glad to be done drywalling!!!! :!:

For my floors I decided to just stain the concrete. I looking into acid stains but then found an eco-friendly soy based stain called Soycrete. I didn't take very good care of my floors during construction so they were coated in drywall mud, paint, glue and all manor of nasty stuff. To get them clean I rented a floor buffer with black pads. I cleaned the floors with a cleaner/degreaser then rinsed (buckets of water and a wet vac). Applied paint stripper to all of the paint spots then used the buffer again and rinsed. Spayed an etcher with a pump sprayer then rinsed 3 times. After a week of cleaning the floors looked like new.

More floor cleaning pictures...

I bought a bunch of 1/4" masking tape (used quilting tape) and taped off a bunch tile like patterns. Soycrete is a great product to work with. It's non-toxic, doesn't stink and, there are a bunch of colors to choose from. I ordered two main colors and a bunch of samples. I just applied it using a sponge which was slow but it really gave me a lot control over the colors. Once I had all of the colors applied I used a pump sprayer and roller to apply 2 coats of Acri-soy glossy penetrating sealer and a coat of H&C wet look acrylic sealer. I then mopped on 3 coats of wax. ( Zep Wet Look Floor Finish ) I'm very happy with how it turned out.

More floor staining pictures...

A few more floor staining pictures

Absolutely Fantastic! you've done a great job. Will the wax have to be re-applied like a standard floor?

Wow! Pretty cool! Those floors look really neat. Hard to believe that it is just stained concrete. From the photos, some of them look like quality ceramic tile! If you ever decide to visit Chile, your are truly welcome to come work that kind of magic on my floor! :lol: - Stuart -

Lief, I have to say you out did yourself. I do stained concrete for my real job and know the work you went through to get the results. Fantasic job. Be aware of your top coat. Make sure once you see wear you seal it again or you will wear through the stain. Soycrete is on the bottom of my list because it does not penetrate as well as the others do. ( occasional Pealing) However if your top coat stays in tact, it will wear just fine. Just a heads up for the future. You did do it correctly by having the two coats of wax on top. We call those sacrificial coats in the industry. Once again Nice job Peace Tom

Thanks guys! I plan on reapplying the "wax" as needed. Hopefully it well hold up well over time.

Great looking floor, and nice tiling, jester! keep up the good work and post them pix, we love it.