from shed to studio?

Ok, i'll remeber that for the pucks. In regards to the insulation, I meant the entire building. Thanks!

so what do you guys think the best combination for insulation to be for the project? 4" SAFB? 4" Semi-Rigid Rockwool? 1" 703 with 3 1/2" Pink Fluffy from Home Depot? I need a definite answer because I plan on buying it tomorrow morning, thanks!

Given those choices, I'd go with the SAFB's or the rockwool - your floor and wall cavities should end up right at 4" with either the rubber pucks included or RC for the walls; So if the insulation is exacly 4" thick, it will be nearly perfect. If the thickness IS exact, I would buy a roll of the fluffy stuff and run about 4" wide strips down the center of each bay before you cover it. That will give enough damping without causing too much coupling... Steve

What a day, I called a place and they said they had rockwool. $.70 a sq ft, what a deal! I went down there (thinking about $450 total for the room) and the guy says no this rockwool is only for fire applications, I guess this kind would be useless. He tried selling me some semi-rigid 1" or 2" board for $1.50 a sq ft, I guess they use it in lining ducts and stuff and theaters. I guess i'll have to settle ordering in the SAFB and waiting. The guy explained that the rockwool i'm looking for is the acoustical batt version either in seperate pieces or in a roll. Unless there is another truth to this what you might know of? If not, i'll have to get SAFB. Next question, how am I going to mount surface mount electrical boxes onto drywall? The little plastic screws you screw in first then you use the metal screw (for attaching things to only drywall, not a stud), is rated to only the drywall being 3/8's of an inch. I'll be using two layers of 5/8s. Any insight? Thanks!

If you can tell us what the brand is and what the product # is. A lot of these guys have no clue, they only know what other people tell them. And those prices seem a bit high. But then I am in Michigan. (much closer to Canada, so trucking is lower) AFB = Acoustical FIRE batt so if that s what it was and the pcf is about 2.5 or 3 then that is the stuff we are talking about. the semi rigid has a pcf of about 4 and is used for surface mount uses instead of in the wall use.

Hey guys, I just got a quote on Roxul SAFE for $ .78 a sq ft. It's 4" with 4.5 PCF. Is this too dense? I think it's a pretty good price. He also has Roxul Rockwool 2.5 PCF same price but he only has it up to 3". (my walls are 4" air gap) What should I do? They have it in stock and whatnot...Should I go for the 4" stuff for everything or the 3" rockwool and stuff the rest with pink?

I was in the same situation. Steve told me to use the 3", then I added a few strips/scraps between the RC to help dampen the drywall. The main thing is to not compact too much, as vibrations will travel through it (I just discovered this mistake in one area where I just constructed the ceiling :( ).

So should I go for the 3"? What should I stuff the rest of with? Is there any possible way to maybe get RC that is a little bigger than 1/2" like 5/8 and to use the 4" safing? I just want to order it today so I can get it sooner! edit: I read on homerecording.org post from knightly that this stuff is good to use. I just don't understand how NRC ratings can go over 1. Either way, I looking for the best absorbtion as possible then I can treat the room later, this Roxul SAFE 4" I think is my best bet. I'll call in the order soon...Unless there are objections? I can't imagine the 4" SAFE to be so rigid that I can't slightly compress it when the drywall goes over, I think coupling won't be an issue, but correct me if i'm wrong.

When I started my project, I had filled the ceiling joists in the basement w/ 4" 4lb Roxul. This stuff is pretty rigid. Easy to work with, but it's more solid than the 3" 2.5 lb stuff. Everything else I used in the control room, etc is the 3" 2.5 lb... Scroll down about half way... http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic ... &start=210 Steve would be the person to ask for sure.

DC, Aaron is currently doing (or recently done) his studio, so he knows firsthand about what you can and can't squeeze into stud cavities - as to making deeper cavities with different resilient mounts, the RSIC-1 clips and hat channel increase air gap by about 1/2" over RC, but if your insulation is TOO stiff you might get too much coupling through the wall where the hat channel tries to compress the insulation. I don't think I'd try this. For lower frequency isolation, staying just under 3 PCF is your best bet - If you can get the 4" SAFB, I would just do that - then, buy just one roll of 3-1/2" fluffy fiberglass, cut strips of it about 3" wide, and place them in the centers of each stud cavity before you add the wallboard over it. That would be the simplest (and likely the best) way to handle the insulation for your wall frames. For your floated floor, either rockwool or the 4" SAFB's are fine but you still need those strips to make sure the floor doesn't resonate... Steve

I just ordered the 3" Rockwool with 2.5 PCF at $.30 a sq ft!! I ordered enough for the room and extra to cut down in 1" pieces to fill the space. $50 delivery charge from pomona this guy is great, also hes a drummer so me and him had a connection. A great guy if anyone needs cheap rockwool in Southern California, talk to Gene from Insulation Wholesalers, Inc. in Pomona, the company number is [removed], I can PM his cell number if you need it. Let him know that Toan from San Diego reffered you, hes a nice guy! Anyways, onto my questions. I don't think I asked this yet, but how do I attach surface mount AC boxes to a double layer of drywall without a stud?

Assemble the box with the interconnecting conduit or flat raceway so you have accurate dimensions, then hold the assembly against the wall with the covers removed, mark at least two holes for each box and one every two feet or so for raceway - drill these to fit plastic drywall anchors, making sure you have all studs and RC located with marks on masking tape so you can MISS them with the screws - then, just before you mount the boxes/wiremold with the correct screws for your anchors, spread a bead of caulk around each hole and force some into the anchor hole - "butter" the backs of the outlet boxes with caulk, insert anchors, tap flush with a hammer, and install the screws. Caulk around the finished box/wiremold assembly, wipe the excess around the boxes and wiremold and let cure. I like to put surface mount electrical around 2 feet off the floor, this gives a good resting place for bottom of acoustic treatments and keeps hum far enough off the floor not to interfere with any mic/guitar cords laying on the floor. What little damage this does to your wall isolation will be almost entirely canceled by your in-wall insulation... Steve

Ok, even though those plastic anchors are only rated up to 5/8s inch drywall or something like that. I don't think it'll be a problem since these boxes are so light. 1. Is RC-1 the type of RC I want to buy? 2. I don't remeber if we covered this yet, but RC-1 is strong enough to hold a double layer of drywall on the ceiling? 3. For double layer of drywall, the second piece will also screw into the RC correct? (just clarifying) 4. Is there a negative difference in using 4x12 pieces of drywall rather than 4x8? thanks[/list]

1. Is RC-1 the type of RC I want to buy? Yes, but be careful - USG stopped making this a while back, so you need to ask the manufacturer (whoever they are) about spacing when hanging a double layer of 5/8 drywall. Generally you can use closer spacing (such as 12" instead of 16" if your ceiling joists are on 24" centers, or 16" instead of 24" if your ceiling joists are on 16" centers. 2. I don't remeber if we covered this yet, but RC-1 is strong enough to hold a double layer of drywall on the ceiling? See #1. 3. For double layer of drywall, the second piece will also screw into the RC correct? (just clarifying) Correct - 1/2 the screws for first layer, then a full schedule for the top layer. LOnger screws for the top layer (actually the bottom layer phsically, when doing the ceiling - top layer means the last layer you put on.) It wouldn't hurt to re-read the "complete section", and search the USG manual for "fastener schedule". 4. Is there a negative difference in using 4x12 pieces of drywall rather than 4x8? Only if you have a bad back - otherwise, 12' sheets are better - less joints to mud and tape, less chance of sound leaks... Steve

Theres the insulation stuffed in with the extra 1". Kind of a pain, alot more work to seperate it (most of it is ripping it apart and having it come apart half way..sucks) but it can be done. I also put in just one piece of OSB, with the studs covered with a small layer of insulation to reduce resonance like you noted. Hopefully I can get this done by tomorrow all of it, then start on electrical. I keep jumping from one thing to another.

Hard to be sure looking at 2-dimensional pix, but it looks like about perfect amount of fill for your floor - So tell us, did you have any idea whatever that you'd be tackling this scope of a project three months ago? Not to mention the number of views your thread has had in the last 3 months - man, you haven't played a NOTE in there and yer already a star - If you don't find your thread next time you look, check out the TOP of the page - it's definitely seen enough action to warrant "sticky" status - I'll let you read this first so you don't panic when it's not where you left it, then tomorrow night I'll "sticky" it - Great job, and I know everybody is diggin' the pix - Thanks... Steve

Hi dietcookie, As Steve just said this thread has been great. Thanks for posting the pics and I must say that I really like the way you filled your floor with the "wool". That excess insulation sticking out over the top of the floor frame will dampen the floor really nicely I think...great job thanks for the pics again.. cheers

So tell us, did you have any idea whatever that you'd be tackling this scope of a project three months ago? Not at all; as you read, I thought this was just going to be a shed with drywall at the beginning :lol: It certainly came out to be more expensive but I am very satisfied with how it has come out so far, nothing short of looking like a building that was built by contractors but even better. I also thought it would be done alot sooner. I wish I took my pics of each step because I know it'll help someone but I always forgot, i'll try to take more pics. Thanks for the sticky, I had questions from both ends of the spectrum regarding everything and it will sure help other people.[/i]

It's now officially a "sticky" - If you think it's been expensive so far, compare your costs to having 3 different local contractors build it, tear it down, start over, and STILL not be able to practice without the neighbors calling the cops - as near as I can tell, maybe one in 1000 contractors (or worse) know enough to even put RC where it belongs, much less any of the other principles of physics that help isolation. Plus, if you're anything like me you'll take a LOT of satisfaction just knowing that YOU did this, not to mention the knowledge you've gained. Keep up the good work - the extra time beats doing it over or hating it... Steve

Here are some pics I took... I just got my door, I went with a solid core door with no window. Comes with a metal frame but the fram doesn't have a bottom piece? I thought it was supposed to be a complete square? I think the threshold at the bottom is my bottom piece (ive never purchased a door so I don't anything about em :) I also bought my RC. 1/2" RC-1 by phillips. The guy said I would be screwing the drywall into the RC as well as wood studs?? I said no, i'm only going into RC and I guess he has never done that before? This stuff feels kinda flimsy, is it supposed to be like this? I finished the floating floor today, about 75% done with outside electrical, got the wired buried, I need to mount the box outside and start drilling holes in the stud for the outlets. Am I doing 24" OC for RC? So ceiline or walls, same fastening method for RC..? Oh and if im seeing this correct, there are no screw holes on the fatter part of the RC, its the piece that extrudes from the actual part that you screw into your stud? Just screws on the top part of that, pictures of it are above.. For my door (pretty heavy as it is) is there anything I can do extra to get a better STC rating? As you said in the door sticky, you recommended adding MDF to it, would that work in my case? If I don't get my freebie A/C this weekend I might just go buy a 150sq ft window unit or some sort and throw it in the ceiling. For AC (i've asked a thousand times and still not clear.. sorry I know youve tried I just need you to say yes..Insulate the top of the attic with foam insulation, have A/C blow into the attic like I live there, have a duct opening through my ceiling past the ceiling drywall into the studio. From the top of the duct (attic side), have a duct with two or more turns drawing air from the lowest point in the room, somewhere from the duct and before the actual opening in the ceiling to the studio, there is a fan pushing the air along? Thanks! Side note, With all the knowledge i've gained from this forum and other online resources, everywhere I go, it seems that I know more than the person working there but I just don't know enough to make decisions on my own..kind of unfortunate, I need someone to hold my hand in person :oops:

does anyone have an answer? hopefully soon cause i plan on buying drywall and doing the ceiling tomorrow night!!

Ok nevermind I think I got the right stuff after re-reading some posts duh! But do I still need a hat channel? It looks like I got the TRU-25 philips RC1

I also bought my RC. 1/2" RC-1 by phillips. The guy said I would be screwing the drywall into the RC as well as wood studs??

Screw the RC to the studs. Screw the the drywall to the RC. Don't put screws where the studs/joists are.

This stuff feels kinda flimsy, is it supposed to be like this?

Yes. Most of the stuff I've picked up was 25 guage steel. When I did my walls, my stud spacing is 24" OC. I placed it 24" on the walls. The ceiling is 16" OC. (I'm getting ready to do mine this next week or so). I will probably be spacing it 16" perpendicular to the joists. Screws, I'll probably space the first layer at 16" and 12" spacing for the second layer.

i plan on buying drywall and doing the ceiling tomorrow night!!

I just went to HD 2 nights ago to pick up a couple sheets. Holy crap!!! The cost has gone up again. It was priced at $8.99 a sheet for 4'x8'x5/8" :shock: :shock: Aaron

That's cheap, it's like 9 somthing over here in MI Man a year ago it was 5.25 (when I built my studio.)

I know. I picked a great time to buy my house w/ low interest, but a bad time to do any construction!! :? :(