Expanding home studio into garage - questions and pix 'blog'

Started by MatthewDudman on 25 December 2008. 101 replies, 2008–2009. In the Library under Build diaries. Key posts in this thread.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 11511.

Take heart. As Phillip Newell wrote in Recording Studio Design
There are essentially three aspects to sound isolation; mass, rigidity and distance. Taking the last one first, if we can get far enough away from noise sources and our neighbours, then we will have solved our isolation problems. That is probably the one and only thing that is totally obvious in the field of acoustics.
The bolding is mine. There things that are constants due to acoustics, that (again) are not intuitive. Quoting Newell again:
It is often difficult to get the fact across to people that 70 dB or 80 dB of isolation demands the same degree of treatment, irrespective of the purpose for which it is needed. ‘But I only want it for practising my drums’ is a cry so frequently heard. It is as though people expect that the cost of isolation somehow reflects the cost of what they are doing. Because they are only spending the cost of a drum kit, they expect that the isolation to the bedroom of a neighbour will somehow be cheaper than if they were spending a hundred times as much on a complete set of studio equipment. Obviously, (or at least it should be obvious) the two situations will have identical isolation requirement, whether the drums are used for practice only, or for a very serious recording process. Basically there are only two factors involved in extreme cases of sound isolation; great weight or great distance. This brings us nicely back to the consideration of the layout of rooms in multi-room studios, as the isolation between sections can be destroyed by inappropriate door and window systems.
We want your studio to be the best possible. Very little is obvious. Andre
guess i'm just a simple novice amongst giants.
I can identify with that!! That sounds like me, a few months ago! Been there, done that. But hang in there, after a few weeks it starts making sense, and you start understanding the terse responses from the real experts here. (I'm not one of them! I'm just a good parrot.. :) ) - Stuart -
Current outstanding questions, if anyone has time/inclination, I’d surely appreciate it! Thanks, Matt 1) Are there any 3 leaf or other problems with putting up a double MAM wall against the garage door. i.e. garage door – 2” air – 2 sheets rock – stud/insulation – 2” air – stud/insulation – 2 sheets rock. 2) Any problems with the following plan? • West (exterior) wall . Remove inside rock, leaving exposed studs and (fluffy) fiberglass. One sheet of rock remains on the outside. Build new wall 2” from existing exterior wall. No rock on side of new wall that faces old wall, then alternating studs packed with mineral wool, then a sheet of ½” rock caulked to the studs and caulked to a sheet of 5/8” rock on the side facing into the tracking area. • East wall (1/2 exterior, ½ connected to interior of house). Only need to use same method as west wall on the southern ½ where the iso booth is (i.e. NOT in the pantry area, where the wall can stay as-is). • North (control room) wall. Same as west wall. • 2 walls between the 3 iso booths. Build 2-leaf as above, except dbl rock on BOTH sides. • Interior wall separating pantry from large tracking room: This one I’m not sure. Would single stud with single rock work, since I don’t really need isolation from the pantry?
What did you do with the sheetrock you cut out of the perimeter wall? Has that been installed to the outside or no?
xSpace wrote:
What did you do with the sheetrock you cut out of the perimeter wall? Has that been installed to the outside or no?
no. was not able to salvage rock and did not attach to exterior wall, which is already sheetrock and stucco. more would have been better? thanks matt
Thank you for adding your location to your profile. You are using words to communicate things that are effectively done by visual means. Do another Sketchup WITH DETAILS for us to follow. How much detail you may ask. Enough that we could build what you are describing from the drawing. You wrote the exterior is gyproc. This is never done because gyproc is water resistant. Take a break of at least 2 months and and ask questions, get replies, grasp the replies, and ask further questions. You have many world class designers reading your thread. If you follow what is recommended, you will endup with amazing results. Much of the initial stages of designing a studio for a client consists of walking them through basic questions abut what is wanted, and politely getting the information required. The latter is accepted because regardless of what was asked of the customer to prepare before hand, any time extracting that information is billable hours. If you do not help the people giving (free) advice here, some will not even react to your posts. It is important to recognize that a studio is sum total of its parts. You have been asking questions based on where you are in what you are doing at the moment. Things are obvious looking at the big picture, but will not be addressed if people are focused on answering your specific questions. A perfect case in point is your desire for 4 isolated spaces. With an 18' by 22' space, this works out to 4 spaces of 8'6 by 10'6" allowing for a standard wall of stud and single layer of gyproc. You are taking space for the water heater etc, so the rooms are even smaller. With rooms that small, large amounts of thick absorption are required. Typically 4" thick. You will end up with dead rooms 7'10" by 9'10". A room that size has no acoustic to help the performer on an acoustic instrument. Andre
Are there any 3 leaf or other problems with putting up a double MAM wall against the garage door. i.e. garage door – 2” air – 2 sheets rock – stud/insulation – 2” air – stud/insulation – 2 sheets rock.
Yep, that is three-leaf already. It might be acceptable. It might not. It depends.... How much isolation do you need, and how loud are you? Those are basic questions. Without answers to those (in real decibel numbers, not guesses) you cannot possibly decide on a plan for building your walls. If all that you play is the harmonica and you don't care about isolation as your nearest neighbors are two miles away, then you don't even need any wall at all. But if you have a heavy-handed drummer bashing away at 120 dBC with all his might day and night, and your neighbors who live five feet away have a tiny baby that needs to sleep 23 hours per day, then you need one hell of a wall! Two totally different scenarios. Unless you put in the effort to do your homework and come up with real numbers and a detailed model of what you have, then folks here won't be able to help you, no matter how much they might want to. Believe me, I've learned the hard way: If you want answers here, then you need to first do the research on this forum (the "search" button is your new best friend!), then take the time to build a 3D SketchUp model of exactly what you have, in full detail, and exactly what you think you might do with it. Then you need to ask specific questions, and wait patiently for days, maybe weeks, for answers. Yeah, it's frustrating to have a hammer in one hand and a pile of studs on the floor, and just have to leave it there for a couple of months while you get your plan in order, but it would be an awful lot more frustrating to go ahead and spend all your money and all that time, and the time of all your savvy friends, building something that turns out to be an acoustical trash heap. But at least you are in the right place: This forum is just chock full of all of the information that you need to know. All you have to do is read it and assimilate it, and that takes time. If I recall correctly, just reading through Sharward's thread took me about 20 hours, because I kept on following side threads to learn more, then coming back. And then I was really disappointed when I got to the last page, and discovered that he still hasn't finished his build... And his thread is just one of many that are really, really worthwhile following. Lou's is another that comes to mind.
• West (exterior) wall . Remove inside rock, leaving exposed studs and (fluffy) fiberglass. One sheet of rock remains on the outside.
Depending on how much isolation you need and how loud you are, one single sheet of drywall on the outside is probably not nearly enough. But the good news is that you can beef it up from inside the wall, by cutting strips of drywall to fit in exactly between your studs, up tight against the existing layer, sealed all around the edges with caulk. Two layers of 5/8 drywall, maybe 3 or 4 layers, depending on your calculations that you do...
Build new wall 2” from existing exterior wall. No rock on side of new wall that faces old wall, ...
so far so good! But...:
then alternating studs packed with mineral wool,
Why "alternating"? You need the ENTIRE air space FILLED with mineral wool, ideally (depending on how much isolation you need). But the very worst case would still have mineral wool (or fiberglass) packed the full depth of the stud, in every single stud gap, on at least one side of the wall.
then a sheet of ½” rock caulked to the studs and caulked to a sheet of 5/8” rock on the side facing into the tracking area.
There is no need to use different thicknesses of sheetrock. It won't buy you anything worthwhile, regardless of what you might have read on other web sites. AFAIK, this is one of those "... but everybody says to do it that way to avoid resonance ..." legends that seems to stick around, but try to find some actual hard data to show that it makes a worthwhile difference... Just go with two layers of 5/8.
and caulked to a sheet of 5/8” rock
Forget the caulk in between the layers! Bad idea. Another legend. If you caulk the layers together, then it becomes one solid layer, which you don't want. What you REALLY should do (but probably will not be able to afford on your budget) is to spread Green Glue between the layers. Green Glue is not glue at all: it is a special acoustic damping "gunk" that works really, really well at low frequencies, such as those where your drum kit and bass guitar live. If you can afford it, then get it. If you can't afford it, then a third layer of 5/8 sheetrock will help nearly as well. - Stuart -
"AFAIK, this is one of those "... but everybody says to do it that way to avoid resonance ..." legends that seems to stick around, but try to find some actual hard data to show that it makes a worthwhile difference" I'm thinking it more relates to refraction rather than resonance. But at this time in the life of myth, tAmatoe tOmatoe :) Like you said, find support that it makes any difference.
AVare wrote:
Do another Sketchup WITH DETAILS for us to follow. How much detail you may ask. Enough that we could build what you are describing from the drawing.
Ok I will try. I need to learn the program better because right now I'm trying to reconcile you telling me to leave "components" out of it up above, and now to include everything. I'll work on it. Thank you.
AVare wrote:
Take a break of at least 2 months and and ask questions, get replies, grasp the replies, and ask further questions. ... You have been asking questions based on where you are in what you are doing at the moment...
Well, we may have a major issue here. I only have help right now, and I need the new tracking space for a band coming in Feb 1. So it really only leaves me with the option of 'consult as i go.' if this is unacceptable, i totally understand. i also don't expect anyone to answer right away. it's nice when it happens.
Soundman2020 wrote:
[your southern (garage door) wall] is three-leaf already. It might be acceptable. It might not. It depends.... How much isolation do you need, and how loud are you?
bummer. i figured when andre said "The garage door itself is too thin to be of any value in isolation." that meant i could put up a MAM double wall next to it. what is recommended? in any case, as mentioned above, i have no concern about how loud my music is to neighbors. we could play out on the front lawn at midnight and not bother anyone. my only concern is trucks going by getting on the mics.
Soundman2020 wrote:
Unless you put in the effort to do your homework and come up with real numbers and a detailed model of what you have, then folks here won't be able to help you, ... build a 3D SketchUp model of exactly what you have, in full detail, and exactly what you think you might do with it. Then you need to ask specific questions, and wait patiently for days, maybe weeks, for answers. Yeah, it's frustrating to have a hammer in one hand and a pile of studs on the floor, and just have to leave it there for a couple of months while you get your plan in order, but it would be an awful lot more frustrating to go ahead and spend all your money and all that time, and the time of all your savvy friends, building something that turns out to be an acoustical trash heap.
Yep. unfortunately, i don't have that luxury. i basically have to begin now. i realize that may end my welcome here (if i ever was). if not, it may be fun, and useful to others, to have a "comment as you go" type thread ... it sure would help me.
Soundman2020 wrote:
Depending on how much isolation you need and how loud you are, one single sheet of drywall on the outside is probably not nearly enough.
actually, there's a stucco wall on the actual outside of the house (western & eastern walls).
then alternating studs packed with mineral wool,
Soundman2020 wrote:
Why "alternating"? You need the ENTIRE air space FILLED with mineral wool, ideally (depending on how much isolation you need). But the very worst case would still have mineral wool (or fiberglass) packed the full depth of the stud, in every single stud gap, on at least one side of the wall.
sorry, i meant the studs are not aligned. wool will go in all the gaps. thanks! matt
Image not preserved: SWCorner.jpg
"Yep. unfortunately, i don't have that luxury. i basically have to begin now. i realize that may end my welcome here (if i ever was). if not, it may be fun, and useful to others, to have a "comment as you go" type thread" People come here all the time in a hurry, got to have it now!!! So this is just one in a long list. I know, for me, it doesn't change anything that you are in a hurry. But I lose interest in projects that have much potential that is not met due to haste:) The good thing is you got the sheetrock off from the interior. You will not ever know how much that is going to help your isolation having nothing else to compare to. The less then ideal thing is, with just a few days extra planning, you could have beefed up the exterior walls which would have helped in a positive way. You had mentioned somewhere that isolation where your pantry is wasn't a big concern. One of the things I have learned is that isolation wants to be contigious, unbroken. So anywhere that the materials change or the methods are modified in a negative way, isolation is the first thing that suffers. So if you treat this pantry area like it doesn't need so much, it winds up being the weak link and lets sound out. When it lets sound out, in this instance, it goes directly into your home. Think about that :)
xSpace wrote:
The good thing is you got the sheetrock off from the interior. You will not ever know how much that is going to help your isolation having nothing else to compare to.
thanks to YOU!!! :) :) major improvement, on the fly. i love it!
xSpace wrote:
You had mentioned somewhere that isolation where your pantry is wasn't a big concern. One of the things I have learned is that isolation wants to be contigious, unbroken. So anywhere that the materials change or the methods are modified in a negative way, isolation is the first thing that suffers. ...
Yeah that was certainly my mistake. we will do it right. good call (once again). thanks matt
Ok I will try. I need to learn the program better because right now I'm trying to reconcile you telling me to leave "components" out of it up above, and now to include everything. I'll work on it. Thank you.
What André means is that there is a "bug/feature" in the SketchUp program. If you create any "components" (a component is basically a group of surfaces/lines/objects/other components/whatever) then it is stuck inside your SketchUp file forever, even if you then delete that component. So, if you create a 2x4 as a component, then you immediately delete it, it isn't really gone. It is still part of your file. Even though you deleted it, it is still there. So over time, your file just grows and grows, as it accumulates dead components. The trouble is, that you absolutely do need to make components in SketchUp! Things need to be components to be useful. You do need to make your SketchUp model as accurate as possible, including everything, all components. But just be aware that the "bug/feature" will make your file huge eventually. So you are stuck with a growing file. What Andre was telling you was to not make anything that you don't need. There are ways around that: You can copy all of the actual real "good" components to a brand new clean file every now and then, but it's a pain! There is also a tool that is supposed to purge those "unused" components, but it doesn't seem to work too well.
Well, we may have a major issue here. I only have help right now, and I need the new tracking space for a band coming in Feb 1.
Frankly, even if you had a rock-solid perfect plan in place as of right now, and a professional studio construction team waiting at your frint door with a truck load of matirials, I'm skeptical that you could be finished inside of five weeks! Especially if you aim to do it right. Not unless your savvy group has an awful lot of members who are absolute experts in several fields that you have not even considered yet. You have not mentioned anything about your electrical or HVAC systems, for example. A split system aircon will cool your air, but how are you going to silence that? You can kid yourself that you'll just turn it off while you are tracking, but the heat in that room is going to build up really fast with a bunch of musicians and equipment in there, all going full bore. You are going to build a really, really well insulated air-tight bubble, and then put hot people and hot equipment inside. Heat has no place to go. It stays inside, and builds up and up, unless you remove it. So the air conditioner will have to stay on, even if you are tracking in midwinter with six feet of snow outside the door. So the air conditioner has to be very quiet. Where are the plans for your silencers and ducts? And even so, the air con won't give you fresh air, which you kind of do need if you plan on not passing out each time you work in the studio. You are going to build an airtight room. It has to be airtight, in order to achieve isolation. Putting live creatures (such as people, for example) in an airtight box for lengthy periods of time is not know for promoting good health or long life! You need to design your ventilation system, as well as your cooling. You have to get fresh air in, and stale air out. It's a complex system, as it has to have silencers of some sort. And it has to be planned carefully to move enough air to keep you all alive and comfortable: You cannot just guess at how big the ducts need to be, what size fan to use, or how fast the air must move. I just don't see where you have planned that, or even allowed space for it. I'm rather well aware of this, as I'm at that exact point in my design: trying to figure out where to run my ducts, where I can find space for my silencers, etc. It ain't easy! :)
So it really only leaves me with the option of 'consult as i go.' if this is unacceptable, i totally understand. i also don't expect anyone to answer right away. it's nice when it happens.
Well, I'm thinking that you probably will not like the answers too much, even if they do come right away! Many of the posts I see on this forum are along the lines of "Why did you just build it that way?" followed by a "Damn! So what do I do now to fix my goof?". And those are threads from people who actually have taken the time to plan carefully. So my guess is you are going to see a lot of answers that you don't like. I'm not trying to discourage you! You have to work with what you have, for sure, but the kind of situation you are putting yourself into does not bode well for seeing a lot of "Nice job, Matt! That's a great idea to build it in that new and totally untested way!" type of posts.
bummer. i figured when andre said "The garage door itself is too thin to be of any value in isolation." that meant i could put up a MAM double wall next to it. what is recommended?
You could do that, yes. If you do it right, and are aware of the limitations regarding low frequency noise, such as comes from trucks, for example. Search the forum. Several people have the exact same issue as you do with garage doors like yours. They have asked the exact same question. I'm one of them, but I have not yet gotten to that place in my design, so I have not researched that yet, and therefore I'm not the one to answer.
in any case, as mentioned above, i have no concern about how loud my music is to neighbors. we could play out on the front lawn at midnight and not bother anyone. my only concern is trucks going by getting on the mics
Sound goes both ways. If drum sound leaks out, then truck sound will leak in. You can't stop it just going in one direction. How loud are the trucks? You need to get out your sound level meter and actually measure the sound level, right there at your garage door, both outside and inside, as trucks go past. If you have an RTA or a spectrum analyzer, or if one of your sound-savvy friends can get one for you, that would be excellent as you would be able to see exactly what "truck" frequencies are giving you a problem. But even a set of simple readings from any old half-decent SPL meter will give a rough idea of what you are dealing with. But you DO need real numbers. Nobody can tell you how to build your walls/celing/doors/window without knowing how much of a problem you have. Does the ground shake/vibrate when the trucks go past?
Yep. unfortunately, i don't have that luxury. i basically have to begin now. i realize that may end my welcome here (if i ever was).
I hope we haven't come across as not welcoming you here! Its not that at all! You are actually VERY welcome here! Like I tried to explain in some of my other posts, you have to get used to this place. People often make very terse, biting comments that hit you between the eyes, but they ONLY do that because they are trying to HELP you. If they didn't want you here, or were not interested in your project, they just would not comment at all! You'd have a silent thread. The fact that you have an active, lively thread going here, with many searing comments, shows that many people ARE interested, and ARE trying to help! I only hope that I get this much activity on my thread when I start to build, and I pray that the comments are all along the lines of "That was dumb! You need to rip that out right now and do it the smart way!". If all I get are comments saying "Way to go!", then I'll be REALLY worried! In short, I WANT people to tell me what I'm doing wrong, not what I'm doing right! That's what you are seeing here: folks see great potential for your build, and they are all warning you that you are going about it the wrong way. They are doing that because they want to help you, not because they want to discourage you.
if not, it may be fun, and useful to others, to have a "comment as you go" type thread ... it sure would help me.
Like I said: I'm sure you'll get "comments as you go", but you might not like them very much! My guess is that you will see a lot of reference to other threads, where other builders had the same issue that you just ran into, and that you could have avoided if you would have searched the forum before you started. I think you might see a lot of "I told you so" comments, too.
I only have help right now, and I need the new tracking space for a band coming in Feb ... Yep. unfortunately, i don't have that luxury. i basically have to begin now.
I hear what you are saying, but it isn't making very much sense. You are basically saying that you want to go ahead with your build, spending all of the small amount of money that you do have, even though you know you cannot finish in time, and have no idea if will not turn out well? In your shoes, I think what I'd do is stop and re-think the whole plan through, and then rent space elsewhere for the February session, or maybe just track as best I can in the empty shell, and live with multiple re-takes to deal with the truck noise issue. If it were my seven grand, I would not want to waste it on a job that can't even be done properly in the meager time available, based on no real plan. I think I'd rather just go to Las Vegas and have fun blowing all that money on the slot machines, rather than blowing it on building a studio with no plan. At least in Vegas I'd stand an extremely remote chance of getting some of the money back! Sorry for being sarcastic, but I think you have false expectations if you hope to build an entire studio properly, with no plan, in less than five weeks. If you do, you'd be the first to ever managed that, I think.
if this is unacceptable, i totally understand.
It's acceptable to me! After all, it's not my money! :)
actually, there's a stucco wall on the actual outside of the house (western & eastern walls).
Right! I missed that. You had mentioned it before. That helps a bit, probably. How thick is the stucco, and how is it built? Is it just drywall with stucco on the outside?
sorry, i meant the studs are not aligned. wool will go in all the gaps.
OK, now I understand. I think. Or maybe not. Are you talking about a staggered stud wall, where you have a common top and bottom plate with two sets of studs, one for the inside leaf and one for the outside? Or are you just saying that you will have two separate frames but that you'll take care to make sure that the studs one the two frames do not line up with each other? Of it is the former, then you are not maximizing isolation. If it is the latter, then I don't see the point. It does not matter, as far as I can see, if your studs happen to line up or not, as long as the frames are totally decoupled. Anyway, to summarize: five weeks is an unrealistic time frame to do what you are thinking you can do. Even five months would be pushing it. What will you do if you get to February, the musicians are knocking on your door, and your room is nowhere near ready? Or it actually is finished, but sounds like junk and is unusable? You have not even mentioned the acoustic treatment that you will need once the room is finished, in order to make it into a usable recording space. Isolation and treatment are two totally different, diametrically opposite, mutually exclusive issues. Another thing you have not mentioned is permits and code: Do you have all your paperwork in order, and will your structure meet code and pass inspection? The saddest thing of all would be if you just happened to get lucky and build a usable studio, then have an inspector show up and tell you to tear it down again, as it is not legal... Once again, if I were in your shoes, I think I'd take a deep breath, realize that February is totally unrealistic, and put the build on hold. Then I'd start looking for alternatives for that tracking session in February. Because there is no way I'd risk dumping seven grand down the drain just because I'm in a hurry to do something that I don't know very much about, while people who do know a bit about it are telling me not to do it! But that's just me. After all, it's your seven grand, not mine! - Stuart -
You have people that care about you posting here. If you want to have a chance at your February goal, start doing things as soon as they are suggested here. Have your Sketchup file ready yesterday to post. The only thing you can do expediently is what you can do. Regarding components, what I meant is do not try for a moment a drumset or couch etc. in the file. The moment you put it in , the file size will grow permanently. this will restrict your ability to post it here. If you are expecting to meet your February goal, answer my remarks about having small dead spaces. You do not have the luxury of lolly doodling responses to serious comments if you are serious. You have comments to work with regarding doors, seals, windows, and venting. Add to that budgeting for electrical and signal wiring. Show your HVAC system. Budget all of the above. See my tagline. Do not sleep accordingly if you hope to have the February deadline met. Do you have Rod's book and MHoA? If not, order them yesterday and read them and absorb them completely. In your spare time read the last 25 threads in each of the three top forums here, and Lou's great thread. Do al of this and you will have half a chance of meeting your goal. It is up to you. Read my tagline. Forget about tearing down. Document your plans. Andre
Soundman2020 wrote:
What André means is that there is a "bug/feature" in the SketchUp program. If you create any "components" (a component is basically a group of surfaces/lines/objects/other components/whatever) then it is stuck inside your SketchUp file forever, even if you then delete that component.
ahhhhh! ok! thank you!
Soundman2020 wrote:
... You have not mentioned anything about your electrical or HVAC systems
good point. we've discussed it and started planning. hvac guy coming over today.
Soundman2020 wrote:
Well, I'm thinking that you probably will not like the answers too much, even if they do come right away! Many of the posts I see on this forum are along the lines of "Why did you just build it that way?" followed by a "Damn! So what do I do now to fix my goof?". And those are threads from people who actually have taken the time to plan carefully. So my guess is you are going to see a lot of answers that you don't like.
thank you. i'm sure that's true. i'm totally ok with that.
Soundman2020 wrote:
How loud are the trucks? You need to get out your sound level meter and actually measure the sound level, right there at your garage door, both outside and inside, as trucks go past.
ok. i do have one of those. will do. thanks.
Soundman2020 wrote:
I hope we haven't come across as not welcoming you here!
Frankly, that's exactly it. But I'll just chalk it up to my own sensitivity.
Soundman2020 wrote:
Its not that at all! You are actually VERY welcome here!
Cool. thanks for saying that. so, i'm over the social stuff and ready to move on to the task at hand.
Soundman2020 wrote:
You are basically saying that you want to go ahead with your build, spending all of the small amount of money that you do have, even though you know you cannot finish in time, and have no idea if will not turn out well?
basically, yes. i don't mind rolling the dice. the recordings i've already completed without this room are excellent and have gained notoriety in my little world, so i expect this to be an imperfect improvement. and i'm totally ok with that.
Soundman2020 wrote:
How thick is the stucco, and how is it built? Is it just drywall with stucco on the outside?
ok, my buddy is here now this morning and he says it's about 1" thick stucco, then wire mesh, then 3.5" insulation. that's it. our wall (studs/wool, the 1/2" rock, then 5/8" rock) will go in 2" of air from that (photo above).
Soundman2020 wrote:
are you just saying that you will have two separate frames but that you'll take care to make sure that the studs one the two frames do not line up with each other? ... It does not matter, as far as I can see, if your studs happen to line up or not, as long as the frames are totally decoupled.
correct, and gotcha. thank you for your post(s)! very helpful! matt current status of sketchup attached, fyi. NOT COMPLETE. STILL WORKING ON IT.
File not preserved: studio122708.skp
AVare wrote:
answer my remarks about having small dead spaces. ...Do you have Rod's book and MHoA?
see below re: small dead spaces. do have the Gervais book and absorbing best i can. no re: MHoA(?).
AVare wrote:
You will end up with dead rooms 7'10" by 9'10". A room that size has no acoustic to help the performer on an acoustic instrument.
there's no question here, but i will respond per your request. i'm ok with rooms that size. if i really need 'space', i'll put that instrument in the larger room in the plan. close miking will apparently be essential. dead rooms, close miking. reverb later. yes? thanks! matt
Good luck with your build, and you are more than welcome here. Your self imposed timeline makes normal social dialogue moot. You are welcome here. I am Andre. You have met several other great people here. Get your project going. You have specified that the room room size limitation is recognized and understood. Great. Where is your accurate Sketchup drawing? You want things done by the February, get going. Now. Plan HVAC. No keep the doors open between takes. At least one electrical outlet per space. Mic lines per space. Get quotes on glass. You are slipping. Get local quotes on supplier on door seals. Include ceiling in budgeting. Tell us about truck noise. Skip sleep for the next while. MHoA is Master Handbook of Acoustics by F. Alton Everest. Have you read the last 25 threads in the top the three areas here and Lou's thread? That is not a rhetorical question. This is abrupt because of your self imposed timeline. Good luck, and good sleep at the end of February! Andre
Where is your control room layout? Room ratios affect Room ratios which way is up Use putty packs on your electrical boxes... Get familiar with your ceiling (putty pack link above/ half-way down) Electrical wiring high Audio wire low No HVAC blowing in the direction of your monitors Solid core doors are required ... ...but the solid jamb perimeter and SEALS make them work! Thanks to Cram for his well documented build thread. No rest for the weary!!! Good luck, I'm going to rest on the couch, Brien
Like Andre said: MHoA is Master Handbook of Acoustics by F. Alton Everest. Also known as "The Bible" of acoustics. You definitely, definitely need to have finished reading it by the end of last week, or maybe a few days before that! :) Seriously, it is THE book to get you going on understanding acoustics. Get it and read it, right in between your 12 hour daily research of this forum, and your 12 hour daily building activities. You can eat while you read and build, but sleep will have to wait! :)
ok, my buddy is here now this morning and he says it's about 1" thick stucco, then wire mesh, then 3.5" insulation. that's it. our wall (studs/wool, the 1/2" rock, then 5/8" rock) will go in 2" of air from that (photo above).
So your wall is just stucco on mesh, with no base underneath? Hmmmm... I think you might need to beef that up, but probably Andre can give you a better recommendation on that than I can. An inch of stucco doesn't sound like much to me. And if you do beef up the wall, you might need to seal up that wire mesh first, to avoid creating hundreds of tiny air gaps in your wall. But Andre is the master on that. It might not be necessary.
the 1/2" rock, then 5/8" rock
Once again, you don't need to do that with two different thicknesses. Contrary to internet urban legend, it won't gain you anything worthwhile. Better to go with two layers of 5/8 and green glue. If you already bought some 1/2 and some 5/8 and can't return the 1/2, then so be it: Just use it like that. It wont do any harm, but 2 layers of 5/8 would be better. And do NOT caulk or glue the layers together!! Bad idea! Just screw/nail the layers to the studs, with nothing in between. The only exception is if you use Green Glue in between the layers, which is highly recommended. Take a serious look at Green Glue, (which isn't glue). It is expensive, but WELL worth it. It works miracles on your low end. No other product even comes close, so far. - Stuart -
[quote="xSpace"]Where is your control room layout? [\quote] control room remains as since pre-expansion for now (after february will tune further). you can see a little of it in the first sketchup still, north of the north wall (on the western side. bathroom on the eastern side, north of the pantry).. window will go in on the north wall, looking from the control room straight out across the larger tracking room and into the three iso booths. [quote="xSpace"]Room ratios affect Room ratios which way is up Use putty packs on your electrical boxes...[\quote] thank you for these. i've taken a quick look and will delve further as i can. [quote="xSpace"]Electrical wiring high Audio wire low[\quote] ok this is VERY useful. thank you. [quote="xSpace"]No HVAC blowing in the direction of your monitors Solid core doors are required ... ...but the solid jamb perimeter and SEALS make them work![\quote] awesome. thanks! latest pix attached . matt
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ok it's still not even close to perfect but here's the current sketchup. thanks! matt
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I don't know what the problem is, but I can't open your sketchup files. When I try to open them, I get the message "This file was created in a newer version of SketchUp", yet when I check for updates, it tells me that I already have the latest version!
hmmm, sorry! wish i knew how to help. i'm really not good at this program. it does say it's sketchup version 7.08657. attached is a still of it, if that helps! matt
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Hi folks, anyone having trouble with sketchup? I've been digesting Gervais. Great help. Got some green glue (to put between dbl rock walls). Today HVAC guy said keep it simple. Will get cool air into main tracking room and return out. Open iso booth doors between takes (similar to Gervais’ “Through the Wall Systems” ideas on p.124 ). Planning on putting electrical plugs in each tracking room, coming from the dedicated circuit currently at ceiling level in the middle of the garage. Also planning on putting a plate in each tracking room with a couple of mic inputs and a 1/4” input, as well as a headphone output. Next job (tomorrow) will finish putting wool in West/South/East walls. then construct pantry wall. then interior (iso booth) walls. front of iso booth walls will be the only ones done as in the attached diagram, since most of wall will be a (solid core fiberglass, with dbl pane window) door. (rest are MAM double walls with GG). then North wall, which has lots of challenges. need door, control room window, and move washer/dryer plumbing. Bought some recessed lighting from ikea, but rethinking that: might be too hot up near the fiberglass. Thanks matt
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Hi Matt,
Today HVAC guy said keep it simple.
But does he understand the issues of HVAC in studios? Most likely not. For example, did he tell you how many 90° bends you need in each leg? Did he tell you about the insulation in the ducts? Did he tell you how to build the silencers? Did he even MENTION the silencers? If you do HVAC wrong, then you might as well not bother building isolation walls at all. Just think that the ductwork is a direct path for sound that bypasses your walls: It is an open hollow tube. Sound like to travel down open hollow tubes. You have to do it right in order to PREVENT the sound from traveling down your open hollow tubes...
Will get cool air into main tracking room and return out. Open iso booth doors between takes
Opening the door to the booths may or may not be a workable solution: Those are really small booths, as Andre pointed out. Not much air in there. They are also air-tight. (They have to be totally airtight in order to isolate sound). It's not a good idea for a human to be inside a small, sealed, air-tight box for very long, if he plans on staying conscious... People have this bad habit called "breathing". If they don't do it several times per minute, then they don't stay being "people" for very long!!! People also have this bad habit of giving off something called "body heat". So you will have hot bodies inside these small, air-tight, extremely well thermally insulated boxes, perhaps with lights (that give off heat) and equipment (that gives off heat). All that heat has no place to go: it is trapped inside the booth. How quickly do you think the temperature will rise to be very uncomfortable, with no ventilation and no air-conditioning? In other words, you need ventilation in your booths too, if you plan to use them for more than a couple of minutes at a time. Ventilation means insulated ductwork, silencers, and fans. All of this takes up lots of space somewhere. That's why we suggested that you should design carefully BEFORE you start building. Now you are stuck with the problem that you already started building, and you have not thought out any place to put your silencers and ductwork, which are rather large. So either you have to tear something down and re-do it, or you have to use up some of the very small amount of space that you have available in those rooms.
Bought some recessed lighting from ikea, but rethinking that: might be too hot up near the fiberglass.
How are you going to install recessed lighting in a sealed leaf? Your ceiling is your inner leaf. If you poke holes through it to install lights, then you no longer have a sealed leaf. You no longer have isolation. A leaf is only as good as its weakest point. If you cut a hole in it for the light, then that hole is the weak point. Sound will easily leak out through a hole that size. Unless you can find a light fitting that is just as massive as sheetrock and you can seal it in place such that it remains acoustically impermeable, then there is no point in spending all that time and money on doing a proper two-leaf system if you punch holes in it. - Stuart -