redeye - starts construction

Started by redeye on 9 May 2007. 34 replies. In the Library under Build diaries. Key posts in this thread.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 8752.

pics
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Hey Redeye, I was looking at your pics particuarly the one with your door frame. I'm not sure if having steel studs makes the difference but you need to add 2 king studs on each side of your jack stud (the jack stud is the wood 2x4 you've installed that are the "sides" of your door frame. You "may" not need the king studs if you will only have a regular door there, but if you're going to "beef up" your door, it will become a lot heavier, thus you will need more support from your door frame. In the event you need to add the king studs, do a search on here and you'll find some posts that show you what the frame should look like.
hey camiston, thanks for the advice. The door frame is 6"x2" . Do you think that is enough for a heavy door. As the wall gets more plasterboard added, the firmer the door frame seems to be. Ill check out the king/jack stud stuff though. Cheers
Hi there redeye...great project!!!! and fantastic space too :) i'm building(actually designing at the moment) a studio complex in a basement here http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8898 let me ask you this: in your design thread i saw a 2 leaf system including the outter wall as a first leaf...is that right? In this thread i see tha you have plasterboard on both sides of the studs in your outter walls......doesn't this create a 3 leaf wall? or i got it all wrong? would you be kind enough to post a plan of your walls? i know that you are busy right now but it would be very helpfull....my project also includes recording and rehearsal rooms.... what STC are you expecting from your design? thanks for your time and all the best for your project N
Hi Nikodemos, I am keeping to the 2 leaf system where possible, so with the outer brickwalls as the first leaf then plasterboard on the outside of the studs as the second leaf. Then on the other side of the stud (inside the rooms) there will be MDF slats all around the rooms filled with insulation Between the rooms (corridoors) I am keeping to the 2 leaf system. Once the rooms have the doors/windows I will measure what STC, maybe around 57 from outside the building and about 50 between internal new rooms. Ill try take some photos of how Ive done the walls.
well this sounds quite like the "allternative" wall John describes on the SAE page....yes? When you say MDF sluts you mean an actuall mdf wall from top to bottom or something like John's design to create an inner absorber wall? you see english is not my power point :oops: N
Hey Redeye, I'm not so sure it's the 6x2 frame as much as it is the king studs being attatched to the jack stud, being attatched to your door jamb. I would think it's the strength of all 3 studs that helps support the extra weight. The weight of the door would be pulling more from the hinge side of your frame I would think. Also, as I said, you have STEEL framing so it COULD be that the steel would be strong enough to support a heavier door. If you have Rod's book, check pg. 93-98 for some good info. Here are some other links that may be helpful... http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... c&start=15 Be sure to check Andy's comments in this link... http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... c&start=30 Aaron is using steel studs...check out this link... http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... &start=690
Yes its the slats top to bottom for some acoustic treatment.
So sorry for not posting latest pics, but here are some new ones.
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Painted the floor but have now fitted a carpet and rug. Ill get some pics with instruments in rooms.
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