redeye - starts construction

Started by redeye on 9 May 2007. 34 replies. In the Library under Build diaries. Key posts in this thread.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 8752.

Hi, to the construction threaders. I have a few (million) questions, if anybody wishes to stick there oar in, please feel welcome. Is there any way the design pics can be booted over to this one. cheers in advance for any help
Hai Redeye, You mean like already uploaded design pix prompted in another thread to show up here? yeah, prolly. Use the IMG tag and paste the pix URL within. If you dunno how that works, just point me to the thread and pic and I'll see what I can do. cheers.
Before the walls go up , boarded up windows with 18mm MDF filled with insulation. Some of the windows are bricked up from the outside already, and will brick up/fill the others later. Felt good to finaly get started
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off to a swift start...
Used the channels that were already dug, for any future wireing changes in the rehearsal rooms. It took a couple of days to dig them out then fire in some plasic pipe, Most of which was lying around from a previous tiolet upgrade from somewhere else. Cemented them in place and filled it back in the some rubble & earth.
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Hi, is there anybody there??? Im about to start building the walls ceilings on my project and im getting the jitteres about a few things. Im trying to answer all of my problems before, here are some ill stck uip some diagrams to help explain. From the pics on my prevoius design thread you can see its a 4.2m high walls and theres a pitched roof on top. The building is brick built with 2 dividing walls at 4.2m high ( roof trusses sit on these walls) with access doors and windows spaced around. some questions i have are. If I splay a wall ( for better room modes) and have it consist of 2 layers of 12.5mm plsterboard(mass) on 70mm metal stud filled with 100mm insulation(air) then an angled space between those walls and the outside brick wall(mass), 1.Is that OK, or should I try to fill the angled space between the walls with insulation as well. The same question for the ceiling but there isnt really a ouside(mass) wall, just a crap false ceiling up at the 4.2m high walls. 2. Do I put a on top of the ceilings another 2 layers of plasterboard on so that gives me the MAM I need for the ceilings. Please, can anyone answer this as its driving me nuts//// Steve
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the walls wil be 3m high metal studs on top of 10mm rubber on top of a concrete floor. the ceiling spanned accros these walls with 2 layers of plaster board on the inside. Its the gyproc system with metal I beams sitting in a perimier channel braced across. Do i just add another 2 layers on top of the brace(with insulation in between and thats my ceiling MAS sorted?
Even though I can decide make the walls inside out, or all inside, started the framing anyway.
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You're not going to use those plumbing fittings as conduits for pulling wire through, are you? :roll: --Keith :mrgreen:
Hi Sharwood, If there is a reason I should not use the plumbing conduit. Please keep the comments coming, Im on a need to know basis Steve
Made the walls on the floor and double sheeted, taped and sealed both layers. The biggest was 3.6m long and very heavy. Managed to get 5 seperate walls up in a day (12hrs), alot more of the same to do.
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with those nice tall ceilings it would be great to put in a false ceiling and a bunch of hangers to give you some more bass trapping. then again if you need it for isolation... if the existing ceiling could support additional layers of drywall you might be able to keep that space for treatment...
redeye wrote:
Hi Sharwood,
Ahem...... It's Sharward... (Please... :))
redeye wrote:
If there is a reason I should not use the plumbing conduit.
Yes, there are many reasons. You shouldn't (can't?) use regular PVC plumbing fittings for wiring conduit. See "Kathy's Barn Conversion" thread, page 2 for discussion on this. She made the same mistake and corrected it before she got too far along in her build. See also fender1973's "Mic Cable Conduit Help" thread. And absolutely don't miss andy_eade's "Warning - Audio Cable runs also subject to code / inspection" thread. --Keith :mrgreen:
Hi Sharward, Ill give the pipes a good test now, not to be sorry later. Hopefully with only a snake and some returns to go around 2 bends (4" pipe) and have the other 2" pipes as spares. But as the others have had problems Ill check it out now. cheers for spotting that. Even though Ive read the Kathy stuff, I still forgot to make it right. Doh steve
Glenn, with the ceilings, Ill probably finish them with plasterboard on the inside and then check the rooms out for iso. The existing false ceiling wont cope with anything more so will have to drop withing new room for more iso and treatment. as you said ,plenty of height there anyway. cheers
This maybe a dumb question but i'll ask anyway, if the walls are buil in sections and then faced against the brick wall, how do you seal the joints between the sections? Anyway, its all Looking good so far Cheers
hi medboyle, To seal the joins Im planning to do that on the inside of the rooms by cutting MDF to make a box shape linking the 2 walls.i.e. Screw through the nearest metal studs either side of the seal with 3" strip of MDF to give me an edge to attatch an MDF or double plasterboard panel, all sealed ,its the only way i can think of at the moment. Hows it going your way
it had me stumped. We are at a standstill just now till the insulation arrives hopefully it will either come at the end of this week or the begining of next. Were calling in favours to get the stuff so i cant moan if it is slow in coming. As soon as i get the insulation i think we should be able to get ther internal walls up pretty quick Cheers
Hi What type of insulation are you using, Ive got some Rockwool acoustic stuff (£30 for 100mmX1200mmX4800) at the moment but will be downgrading that, its way too expensive. Even the crown roll is costing.
As you see from the pics, started electrical roughs, ceiling frame and door window standards/sills.
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The pics. Had me first session with the acoustic sealant, takes ages, I do hope its worth the effort/cuts on fingers (lots of screws poking about ouch). and how quickly time flys when your doing somthing new.
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Hi, I'm using Knauf Rocksilk Universal Slab RS80 60mm stuff. How's the build going?
Ive got the 100mm rockwool acoustic roll, costs about £22 each. A few cuts, aches and pains, and its going as slow as I expected. gonna post some more updated pics.
A question about doors, in Rod's book he suggests GM trunk rubber for the door seals. Anyone one know of a UK similar product.