This is going to sound really geeky, but that conduit work at the box is something that I would probably just stand and stare at for great lengths of time if I had built it. 8)
Very nice work, Aaron! 8) I'm really glad you're back up and rolling again.
--Keith :mrgreen:
Floating floor over basement concrete. (Artifact Recording)
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 839.
Me too. Except, now I've got something else wrong in my lower left gut. Went and saw the doc today. If it gets worse, I'll need to go get a CT scan. Back on the damn pain meds again. I am soooooo sick of taking pills!!! :? Why can't they just invent a one time fix it all pill? :roll: I'm still movin' around though. Plan to terminate a couple more runs here shortly. :)I'm really glad you're back up and rolling again.
Exactly....
Especially anyone who has done this sort of work before, they can see the 'beauty' in it -- even if it is a utilitarian beauty...
You can just imagine the handiwork,,, and lots of it...
Damn pretty, I have to say...
This is going to sound really geeky, but that conduit work at the box is something that I would probably just stand and stare at for great lengths of time if I had built it. 8) Very nice work, Aaron! 8) I'm really glad you're back up and rolling again. --Keith :mrgreen:
Thanks. :wink:
I won't know what to do with myself once I finish this project... :lol:
Hopefully making lots of records and get some Grammy nominations. Or better yet, one to sit on my console. :D
Aaronw,
Eh, repeating what every one else has said, looks good. 8)
All this talk of conduit thought I throw this in... Last night a guitar player friend on mine was on the same gig location, we got to talking electrical stuff and about properly bending conduit. He's been working part time doing commercial installations. What I found real interesting of what he said about conduit runs:
Apparently you can not have more then 360 degrees of turn/bend in a single conduit run, if you need to do more than 360 degrees of turn then a J box has to be installed (in an accessible location), wires spliced in box and you then can bend another 360 degrees in 2nd run of conduit past J box. Reason is to not damage the wire when pulling through to many bends and ease of pulling.
I know I’m going to sort through the NEC to verify this one for residential installs, BUT my friend said it does not matter what voltage line you’re running, no more then 360 degrees of bend for safety sake. :roll:
Marc
Mark:
Notice the use of the 'pull elbows' for just that reason...
I'm not sure but I'll have to look at that NEC again, just to make sure that they count as 'pull points'...
Aaron? Is that so?
K
Aaronw, Eh, repeating what every one else has said, looks good. 8) All this talk of conduit thought I throw this in... Last night a guitar player friend on mine was on the same gig location, we got to talking electrical stuff and about properly bending conduit. He's been working part time doing commercial installations. What I found real interesting of what he said about conduit runs: Apparently you can not have more then 360 degrees of turn/bend in a single conduit run, if you need to do more than 360 degrees of turn then a J box has to be installed (in an accessible location), wires spliced in box and you then can bend another 360 degrees in 2nd run of conduit past J box. Reason is to not damage the wire when pulling through to many bends and ease of pulling. I know I’m going to sort through the NEC to verify this one for residential installs, BUT my friend said it does not matter what voltage line you’re running, no more then 360 degrees of bend for safety sake. :roll: Marc
Er..uhh..oh..hmmm. Well...I do believe I've exceeded that rule. Oops! (At least with a couple of the 1/2" lines) The 3/4" lines don't exceed that.Apparently you can not have more then 360 degrees of turn/bend in a single conduit run, if you need to do more than 360 degrees of turn then a J box has to be installed (in an accessible location), wires spliced in box and you then can bend another 360 degrees in 2nd run of conduit past J box. Reason is to not damage the wire when pulling through to many bends and ease of pulling.
I don't have a copy of the NEC, but I need to get one.Notice the use of the 'pull elbows' for just that reason... I'm not sure but I'll have to look at that NEC again, just to make sure that they count as 'pull points'... Aaron? Is that so?
Suppose you could always put a junction box or conduit body somewhere in those runs, but of course it depends on how much slack you have in the conductors, and there would then be splices where there aren't any really needed otherwise.
Check out this thing I found...
It's curious, but I'm not sure the author is completely correct about a couple things:
http://www.lanshack.com/DesigningConduitRuns.aspx
I find this one excerpt very interesting:
"568: 4.4.2.6.3 states “Boxes shall be placed in a straight section of conduit and not used in lieu of a bend.” "
http://www.iaei.org/subscriber/magazine ... neive.html
"Apparently you can not have more then 360 degrees of turn/bend in a single conduit run" Er..uhh..oh..hmmm. Well...I do believe I've exceeded that rule. Oops! (At least with a couple of the 1/2" lines) The 3/4" lines don't exceed that.
Alright...Won 10 more IG recepticals on Ebay! Will just need a few more to finish all the outlets.
Also won some more variacs for the light dimmers. The others I purchased disappeared somewhere last month when I flew out of town. Now I can finish up the lighting.
Just need to pick up some more wire to finish the last two runs, and a couple more pieces of conduit to finish up the last run to the tracking room 1.
Then it's time to insulate the rest of the tracking rooms, and YES, then it's time for drywall!!! Yippie!
I would say in the next two or three weeks I should be slingin' mud and squirtin' caulk. :lol:
Truckin' right along... I installed insulation in another wall last night...
Then added the RC1 on to the framing...
Aaron:
All seems to be progressing at great speed,,, I'm jealous!
I got a couple questions I was wondering about...
First, is what prompted you to use steel framing instead of wood?
Second, is that I've heard using RC on steel, or with separate leaf framing is not necessary... Am I seeing that use here, or is there something I'm missing?
The issue with steel comes with things like condensation, etc., when an area might get wet...
thanx, keep up the progress..
K
Several reasons. 1: When I started the project, I was getting a lot of it free, and it was also cheaper than wood. (3 years ago). 2: Moisture. The studio is in a basement. 3: It's a heck of a lot easier to work with than wood. 4: Sound transmission. 5: And a few others I can't think of at the moment.First, is what prompted you to use steel framing instead of wood?
With 25 quage you don't need it. It's flimsy enough. With 20 AWG (beginning of structural studs) it's recommended.Second, is that I've heard using RC on steel, or with separate leaf framing is not necessary... Am I seeing that use here, or is there something I'm missing?
...although condensation could be an issue with steel framing, which would promote mold growth... Yes? :roll: Wood framing can absorb a lot of moisture in the air without condensing and without condensing, thereby inhibiting mold growth... Right? :? I recall that Steve (knightfly) has read and posted a lot about this phenonenon. I hope I'm doing his findings justice. :roll:2: Moisture. The studio is in a basement.
...although that's not really an issue when you're doing double framing, right? I thought steel framing was better for single framed walls because of its relative flimsiness... :roll:4: Sound transmission.
Even with double frames though? :roll: --Keith :mrgreen:With 25 quage you don't need [RC]. It's flimsy enough. With 20 AWG (beginning of structural studs) it's recommended.
Heck if I know. :lol: I hadn't read up on anything recent the last couple years on it. Basically, my main reason as to the start of this project 3 years ago was free materials. Most of the control framing, I got free. With the new construction I've done, I'm really not too concerned with moisture (or mold for that matter), for three reasons: 1: The new construction sits 4 1/2" away from the block wall all the way around the entire basement. 2: I run a dehumidifier 24/7. Part of the design I included into this with the 4 1/2" away, and the location of the dehumidifier, it pulls the moisture out from all the way around the structure. 3: I'm using mineral fiber, which, supposedly, doesn't promote mold growth...although condensation could be an issue with steel framing, which would promote mold growth... Yes? Wood framing can absorb a lot of moisture in the air without condensing and without condensing, thereby inhibiting mold growth... Right? I recall that Steve (knightfly) has read and posted a lot about this phenonenon. I hope I'm doing his findings justice.
Yes. I'm trying to reduce "Flanking" noise by floating the walls away from them (on the 20 AWG) stud walls. Now, I need to double check my measurements, because I think I may have planned that wall to not have RC on it. I've got to go back through my design notes to double check. So it may be coming back off anyway..??? That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it. :roll: Unless I've been misinformed otherwise from previous early learning a couple years ago.Even with double frames though?
I can't open WMF's at home. I'll have to wait until I go back to work Monday.
What is it?
Evil spam bot. :evil: This bot has infected numerous threads. Hey, you've got moderator privileges -- kill that user and all its posts!
The only thread I have privileges on is the tech thread. I don't believe I can delete users or their other posts in other threads.
I would if I could though.
Weekend update.
Saturday I added 2x4's (ripped down) and slid them into the steel framing around the 36" doors for the tracking rooms. Since this was something learned "after" framing the entire studio, these 4 doors are the only one's that will have that added support and anchor for the door frames. I should be ok with the 32" doors, but knowing the 36" doors are even heavier, and I hadn't sealed them in yet, I went ahead and did it. I'll try and post pix later today.
Did Nada on Sunday. Had to go out and hook up a PA system.
OK, here's the pix I promised this morning...
My batch of IG's came in today, so maybe tonight I'll get some more outlets wired up.
:D
I got the powerstat wired up for the other tracking room Thursday night. They too were on my door step when I arrived home Thursday.
Just terminated 10 more recepticles for the tracking rooms today. Only need 6 more to finish it out.
I've taken pix, but haven't uploaded to the computer and resized yet. I'll get them posted when I do.
Also went ahead and removed the RC from the one wall in the previous pix. I checked, and I guess I got a little over anxious, and forgot I wasn't putting it on that wall. :roll: No biggie.
That's the latest here. I'm hoping for spring as a rough date to have most everything completed. That's my latest guess-timation. :wink: Then it's time for gear...
Sharward, I now have moderator privileges for all threads. If you see some that I don't catch, just drop me a PM. I'll delete them.Evil spam bot. This bot has infected numerous threads. Hey, you've got moderator privileges -- kill that user and all its posts!
Hi Aaron.
Just wanted to say, your threads inspiring.
Youve gone through some hard times, and your still hitting the studio hard.
Is there any chance of a quick layout sketch, so we can see the the LR's and sound locks?
Keep up the amazing work.
oZ
Thanks Oz.
About the only part I have actually drawn up is the Control Room, Iso Room, Mechanical Room, and Tech Room. The tracking rooms were roughly sketched on a previous drawing, but have since changed, and I haven't had the opportunity to sit down and add onto the CAD file. Not to mention, I've removed all my personal files from the office server.
I'll at some point draw it up, but for the most part, I just held onto the seat of my pants and put the new walls where they felt good, and moved things around until they fit.