Yeah, shove a 2x4 (or two?) in there so that the steel stud wraps around the wooden one(s).
Floating floor over basement concrete. (Artifact Recording)
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 839.
Unfortunately, I learned that AFTER I have framed 7 doors already. The new framing, I can probably do it, but I'm S.O.L on the other 7. :roll: That's one of those things that no one told me until 2 years into the project. And also seeing it done recently on a construction site. Doh!!!!! Oh well. We'll make it work. All the door frames are 20 AWG steel. I was told by a framer friend that we should be OK. I'll know soon enough.Looks like yer using the metalstuds to hang doors too? I would use a wood frame door for that since the metal studs were not build to HANG stuff on the side (only front and back, where the gypsum is)
I have a 2x4 frame around the door that leads from my garage to my laundry room, which is on self-closing hinges... And every time it slams shut, I see the entire wall bow. That's with 2x4 along the edges of the framing.
Is there no way to fix that, Aaron?
Was there not a framing inspection? :roll:
--Keith :mrgreen:
The walls are solid. The "rough in" for the doors (which is the steel frame) is 2" bigger all the way around for a door frame. All door frames will be custom made to fit and probably made from solid oak. (yeah I know, expensive as hell). Also, the doors will have closers on them to keep them from slamming shut. I'll set them for a slow close.I have a 2x4 frame around the door that leads from my garage to my laundry room, which is on self-closing hinges... And every time it slams shut, I see the entire wall bow. That's with 2x4 along the edges of the framing.
Which part are you referring to? The doors for the control room/sound lock area's, the walls are already sheetrocked, caulked and sealed. Also, in the control room, the framing has RC, so it has helped to strengthen the framing some.Is there no way to fix that, Aaron?
20 gauge is lightweight, to hang doors you should atleast use 25. Still I would reccoment a woodframe.. Haning cardboardboxed doors (the ones used in home constructions) would be less of a problem since they are lightweight.
But to hang massive heavy doors is another thing!!
Please, reconsidder before you continue. you would not have that heavy door tilt down and tear half of the wall structure with it, do you :(
you could also add wood INSIDE the frame perhaps (a 100mm C-stud could easily be used to add a piece of wood inside)
all the best!
Actually it's the other way around. 25 AWG is the light weight steel. 20 AWG is a structural steel.20 gauge is lightweight, to hang doors you should atleast use 25
Just thought I'd bump this to the front page. It was half way down the 2nd page. :shock:
Here's an update. Haven't done anything new the last couple weeks since the party. Been too broke to move forward. Had to raid the change jar as it is. :roll:
Getting ready to run some additional conduits, etc for additional wiring throughout the house as well as running new alarm wires for the studio. My contract w/ my current alarm company expires this summer, so I've got another company coming in this evening to give me the run down of their prices and what they offer. Also, the company I work for, we've just started dealing w/ camera's, etc., so I may plan to prewire for that ability as well around the property.
Well, that's the latest news here...
I have been looking through these pages and pics about your project, and I'm very curious about a couple things (as, of course, it relates to my in-progress project):
Now I understand you used 'makeshift' isolation brackets for (some of?) the top plates.
So, the frames of the walls will be isolated from the above joists.
But how will you achieve an air seal for the space between the above floor and your ceiling?
In other words, how do you put up the sheetrock of the outer leaf walls to BOTH get this air space sealed AND to maintain contact isolation of the whole outer-leaf wall from the joists and floor above?
(See the attached picture below to see what I mean)
The same sort of question I have with any connections between outer-leaf stud walls and concrete basement walls.
If you isolate the frame of the stud walls from the concrete, how do you maintain the between leaf air space seal and keep the drywall isolated from it?
Also, if you were NOT floating your floor, would 'float' the bottom plates of either the inner- or outer-leaf walls?
Would this just be an isolation from direct contact (much like the isolation brackets used between the top plates and floor joists), or does this set up some 'big' sort of mathematical resonance situation?
Maybe I'm just being dumb about all this stuff, but I have not found a concise answer to this question (even after looking through Rod's book)....
Anyone can help me out here?
thanx,
K
There can (and should) be a firm connection between the outer leaf wall and the outer leaf ceiling. The decoupling should occur between inner and outer leaves. There is no need to decouple one outer leaf assembly from another outer leaf assembly... Just as there is no need to decouple one inner leaf assembly from another inner leaf assembly. Remember, the goal is to prevent sound energy from following a structural path from the noisy place through the inner leaf along a firm connection to the outer leaf and into the quiet place.
--Keith :mrgreen:
Although, a direct connection would not apply to where the layers of sheet rock meet at the corner intersections, right? So, I connect a top plate directly to the above floor joists? I don't think a 'direct' connection to the floor joists is the best, but rather a connection through a resilient material (in order to allow deflection of the joists under load, and not have floor pressures on the basement stud wall). Should I use Celotex or something for that? My idea for the outer-leaf wall was to: 1.) use isolation brackets on the top plates 2.) have the outer-leaf sheet rock extend up alongside the joist, but spaced about 1/2 inch away from the surface of the joist 3.) fill the gap with rock wool, firestop latex, and acoustic sealant (or just the Boss 816 which might serve both the firestop and acoustic purposes ?) (see pic below) Then again, I'm thinking that this seal might not hold under deflection of the floor joists.... hmmm.... Thanx for the help... I wish I could see what you are thinking in pictures... Is there any way you could direct me to such? Remember, I'm not floating any floor, but just using the concrete floor as both the inner and outer leaf.... yet the walls and ceiling will be true double-wall, double-leaf construction.... KThere can (and should) be a firm connection between the outer leaf wall and the outer leaf ceiling. The decoupling should occur between inner and outer leaves. There is no need to decouple one outer leaf assembly from another outer leaf assembly... Just as there is no need to decouple one inner leaf assembly from another inner leaf assembly. Remember, the goal is to prevent sound energy from following a structural path from the noisy place through the inner leaf along a firm connection to the outer leaf and into the quiet place. --Keith :mrgreen:
Luftweg (k),
I don't know if you've read the whole thread yet, but here's a couple direct links to pictures as to what I've done.
The control room floor is floating. The walls for the outer shell sit on the floating floor and the top plate is decoupled from the above floor joists w/ the custom brackets.
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... &start=209
Click here: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... &start=255
to get more of a feeling for what I had done. Basically I hung the ceiling last. (In typical construction, ceiling would gone on first). I attached RC to the bottom of the joists, then attached the drywall to the RC, being very careful not to short out screws into the joists. Only into the RC. I suspended 2 layers of 5/8" drywall on the ceiling. Caulked and sealed between each layer. I even added some additional insulation so it would touch the drywall for dampening. Granted, this isn't THE best way for isolation, but provides enough for my use, since I have a low ceiling in the basement, I had to keep as much as I could.
All right. Got a few more things done this weekend amidst the spring ritual of mowing the lawn again.
Started working on the frame work for the 703 in the first sound lock (going into the Control Room). I must admit, if there's one place I F**ked up on in construction, is was the tight quarters (or corners rather) of the Sound lock. Didn't quite give myself enough room, but I managed to make it work. Tight squeeze...and a slightly out of square wall...Doh! Fortunately, it's the only one I really screwed up, but once the 703 and fabric's up, you won't even notice. :D I guess that's why they call it rough construction and then trim out. :wink:
I'll post a few pix later...
Dude, I just read this whole thread. My eyes are tired.
I really wanna get started on building my own studio, but I guess I first have to find out where to put it :P Donations? ;)
[warning: pun ahead] There's a lot of people who might wanna tell you where you could put it.... But seriously, how can you even think of building a studio unless you already have some (or are intending on having some) real estate somewhere to use? Then again, if you're starting from scratch (as it seems), and have the required funding (sorry, I don't consider studio-construction a registerable charity), why not build a new building? Anyway, sounds like you need more planning, and I probably have more questions than answers for you.... good luck on your venture... KDude, I just read this whole thread. My eyes are tired. I really wanna get started on building my own studio, but I guess I first have to find out where to put it :P Donations? ;)
[warning: pun ahead] There's a lot of people who might wanna tell you where you could put it.... But seriously, how can you even think of building a studio unless you already have some (or are intending on having some) real estate somewhere to use? Then again, if you're starting from scratch (as it seems), and have the required funding (sorry, I don't consider studio-construction a registerable charity), why not build a new building? Anyway, sounds like you need more planning, and I probably have more questions than answers for you.... Perhaps someone else here could be of far better assistance... good luck on your venture... KDude, I just read this whole thread. My eyes are tired. I really wanna get started on building my own studio, but I guess I first have to find out where to put it :P Donations? ;)
Yeah I know. But I wasn't really asking for help :P
And I am intending to have some real estate, the question is as usually when it'll happen. :)
OK, here's some of the pix I've neglected to post recently...
Here's some of the framing for the sound lock 703 panels...
And talk about makin' a mess...good thing I'm doing this outside...
I've mostly been busy on a little side project building an SSL Clone compressor this past week, but yesterday I managed to hang some 703 in the sound lock and fabric...
Here's cutting the fabric and installing...
Here's the other side...
And the section just above the door...
I ran out of 2x6 to do a custom cut around the light in the ceiling, but got most of the frame done last night. I should have this done in the next day or two when I get a chance.
Then it's off to the other sound lock on the other end...
:D
Looks great! 8)