Floating floor over basement concrete. (Artifact Recording)

Yikes! I like the product, especially the "product code STC 2". I just called them to get an idea on price, big $$$!!! Here's the "SLRP" they gave me: 770: $19.29 ft. 367A: $80.41 (32" door) 564: $7.06 ft. 119W: $1.93 ft Bronze & 3.10 ft Stainless Steel 950: $137.06 They gave me a local distributor here in Nashville: Sterling Sales & Marketing... [removed].

It took me a couple of minutes to find out what "STC 2" was. It's "SOUND TRAP-52 STC" which consists of product codes "564, 367, 770, 119W, 950" http://www.zerointernational.com/educat ... /page7.pdf

I meant to put that in there. Oops :oops: Thanks. Here's also another diagram from page 3 that shows layout and parts. http://www.zerointernational.com/produc ... g.asp?pg=3 If you download the catalog, it's page 10. The thing about this particular model, is that you can't use door stops w/ it. The seals and assembly are used as the door stops. So this would be perfect if your building your own frames. The cost though, is little out of my budget. Considering I have about 6 doors at the moment that will require them, maybe a couple more. Aaron

Back to windows for a minute...

Aaron, the fiberboard is just laid in there loose, so it won't hard couple between leaves - I've been working on a more detailed CR window/wall drawing, but it's not finished and I'm (as usual) better supplied with projects than I am free time - possibly in the next week or so... Steve

Steve, Any luck on finishing this drawing? What about the other 3 sides (sides and top). I wouldn't think you could just "lay it loose" without it possibly coming down at a later time. Thanks.

Sorry, haven't even had a chance to open the file in the last month, let alone the week I so optimistically mentioned - Gonna be tight for at least another week too, I'll be in Phoenix for consultation during my next days off. I might be able to get some time on it during night shifts if it's slow, but that's sort of a "crapshoot" - Here's a quick concept til I get time for the CAD version, hopefully it will help start an argument at least :? Steve

OK, they're hot off the press. Here's the latest including lots of ceiling pix.

And some more...

...

...Starting the ceiling...

RC on ceiling...

Drywall starts to go up...first layer. And no, that's not me. It's a friend of mine that does drywall for a living. :D

The first layer is up...

And here we have the first layer finished w/ mud and caulked all the way around...

Here's the step between iso room and sound lock to CR... There's a piece of 703 sandwiched between the little gap. Then I just need a longer Threshold to cover it.

Wow, these pics sparked a question I've had for ages. At the vertical jambs around the window and doors, what or how is the sheetrock/jamb joint delt with? There is a gap between them, and normally, you have a stud to nail the sheetrock and trim to, but in this case, the sheetrock terminates to nothing but the end of the RC, correct? So what are you doing at those points Aaron? fitZ

Well, I haven't gotten there yet, but I'm guessing the trim will go on w/ something like liquid nails or an adhesive. Or, it may even stay put w/ some acoustical sealant? I am trying to figure out what to do between the 2 walls though. But I'll ask this question when I get there. I have to put the flooring down before I start building the door jams. I have to finish the walls, ceiling, etc, before I can finish the floors. I'm getting ready to put the second layer of drywall on tonight in the CR on the front side of the beam soffit. Then I can start working on the front soffit wall and bass traps... :D Then I still have the entire back side of the CR to do yet. But, need to figure out the HVAC layout... :? :? :? Aaron

..... :roll: nevermind......double walls. Sorry. fitZ

Boy your fast :lol: You stuck that in before I could post a quick edit about the RC. I realized you are only using RC on the ceiling, and double walls so no RC on them. I've never seen a detail on how people deal with RC at the condition at the jambs. Oh well, I'm not doing it myself anyway. Thanks for the reply. fitz

Actually... I did do RC on the CR walls. But the second walls do not. Look above or click here to see the wall structure: http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic ... &start=256 2nd picture down.

OH! Ok, can you tell me what you plan on doing between the gyp bd. edge and the jambs? It would seem that the jambs still have to be fastened to the studs, so I would assume you are just caulking this gap, and fastening the trim with adhesive. Is that correct Aaron? BTW, are those boxed studs at door openings? Are you covering the gap between the two jambs(2?) with fabric over 703 filler? And how are you going to trim this out? Are these openings for double wood doors? These sort of details have never been posted that I know of, hence all my questions. Also, I've never had to deal with steel stud construction. How did you cut this thinwall stuff? Thanks fitZ :)

OH! Ok, can you tell me what you plan on doing between the gyp bd. edge and the jambs? It would seem that the jambs still have to be fastened to the studs, so I would assume you are just caulking this gap, and fastening the trim with adhesive.

I'm still figuring this out, but so far, yes, I'll be caulking the gap where the RC is between the gypsum and stud.

BTW, are those boxed studs at door openings?

Boxed? :? I used 20 guage on the frames.

Are you covering the gap between the two jambs(2?) with fabric over 703 filler?

I'm still trying to figure this out. I've been looking at a few studios around town to try and figure this out, but no luck yet.

Are these openings for double wood doors?

In this particular picture...NO. But it could be used or reframed this way down the road if I make any changes.

Also, I've never had to deal with steel stud construction. How did you cut this thinwall stuff?

Piece of cake. A pair of tin snips. Mark your measurement, cut the sides, fold it back and forth 5 or 6 times, and it snaps off creating a straight edge. If/when I build another studio...I'll probably do the steel studs again. So much easier to work with. :D If you mess up. Back out a couple screws and move it. If you cut too short, or have scraps, you can splice them together. Can't do that well w/ wood (and pass codes).

Update: the second layer of drywall has been hung on the ceiling on the front half of the CR. I'll be reviewing more of the front soffit wall designs and what we've already discussed through the thread, but I'm sure I'll have some questions about this that will be more specific as I move forward. Thanks. :D :D

Thanks for the reply Aaron. Good luck with your construction, it's lookin REAL good :) fitZ

Thanks. :D 8) :wink: Looks like we broke 10k on views today. 8)

Aloha y'all! Say, I was just wondering if you've got any updates on your project? 8) Thanks!