Floating floor over basement concrete. (Artifact Recording)

I have looked at that option, but for the price difference it would be more cost effective or close to it, to do the pad by itself. I know some of the Pergo products are glue down types, any knowledge of these??? I'm kind of stuck on having to go the route of a laminate floor due to already framing doors, etc. Originally I considered real hardwoods, but decided not to due to the extra work to putting it in. Thanks. Aaron

I see nothing wrong with a laminate floor if you glue the seams. The issue you are dealing with here is when those bass frequencies start rumbling around will the floor rattle, but you can glue those seams and that should eliminate any potential rattle. Bryan giles

Most of this Pergo or other laminate wood flooring has a snap/lock w/ a sealant strip (or something like that) that helps keep it together. So I don't think rattling is an issue.

OK, I've got another roll developed. Let's post a few more pix. I've been working on the iso room mostly. I debated long and hard whether or not to do penetrations where the light dimmer and outlet and wall box for a sconce light, and as you'll see, I went with the penetration. I don't think I'll have any issues, but if I do, I'll deal with it as it comes... Here we go...

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Here I'm adding the 1st layer of drywall... and finished insulating...

More first layer drywall of iso room. Also hung a sconce that I had just to test the dimmer (variac) and to use as extra lighting temporarily...

Here's some pix of the rear wall of the CR... and other area's (sound lock, etc.)

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OK, quickie question on windows and framing. In reviewing the diagrams that john has posted on SAE, it shows using fiberboard covered w/ insulation and cloth between the 2 windows in a double wall frame construction. Now, here's my question...Wouldn't the fiberboard because of it's density, short out the isolation between the 2 separate walls? And cause the transmission of sound from one room to the other? If someone has a better or detailed drawing, please post or point me in the right direction. Thanks, Aaron

Aaron, the fiberboard is just laid in there loose, so it won't hard couple between leaves - I've been working on a more detailed CR window/wall drawing, but it's not finished and I'm (as usual) better supplied with projects than I am free time - possibly in the next week or so... Steve

OK. Here's another question, similar to windows, but the floor. The control room floor sits a couple inches higher than the iso booth. Between the iso booth and CR, is a space between the 2 floating floors. of a couple inches. Any suggestions??? Thanks.

First, a basic drawing showing relative positions of the two floors - second, some yellow paint where the "step up" is, so people don't trip... Steve

The pic is above, but here you go...I'll get you an exact measurement tonight. If you look at the studs, you can see what I mean. BTW...Update...The iso room is completely drywalled including the ceiling hanging on RC. I ran outta film, and forgot to take a pic of the ceiling construction, so I'll have to wait until I do the ceiling in the CR to take some pix. :oops:

OK, let's see if I remember what measured last night. The spacing between the 2 floors is: (on one side it's 2 3/4" & 3" on the other). The rough framing of the door is at 34" spacing for a 32" door. The height difference between the 2 floors (once again, slightly off from each other)... 2 3/4" on one side and 2 9/16" on the other side. As you can tell, I built the iso floor first, not knowing there was nearly a 3" drop from one corner of the CR to the other. I'm guessing I can just use 2x6's and rip them down where I need to. Part of my question is, what do I use to fill the gap between the 2 floors, how much of a space, etc. ????????? Do I allow the kick plate to touch both floors, or ?? And also, how is the best way to fill / cover the gap between the walls of the CR & Iso room? With out shorting them out. And remembering that a door frame is on one of the walls. Thanks.

So, is this basically what we're looking at? Pix are great, but sometimes hard to see perspective. You don't want anything making hard contact with your floated floor (other than the walls on top of it) so you either need to leave a gap or (in some cases where abrasion/impact aren't a problem) use celotex. A doorway isn't one of those places though - check my crude drawing and let me know if it's close... Steve

Close, but they're both floating floors. The main difference, is the CR is on additional blocks from leveling. The iso room is 2x4 framing on 1/2" rubber pieces.

OK, gettin' closer now; is the 2" gap you're referring to a horizontal one, as in not only are your two floors almost 3" different in height, but also there is a horizontal gap between them of around 2" ? What's left to put on top of each floor, or are you done except for thin flooring? Finally, am I correct in assuming that the two facing sides (one from each floor) are framing lumber on edge at this point? And AFTER finally, will there be two doors there (one in each frame) or just one, and which floor will it (if only one door) be on, the higher one or the lower one? Hey, this is fun - from now on, you guys answer and I'll ask the questions :? There, that's much better... Steve

Horizontal (between the 2 floors is about 3"), Vertical (height between them is about 2 3/4"). Flooring...laminate hardwoods; eg: pergo, shaw, or something similar. Yes the floor framing is 2x4's on edge (for strength, and conduit runs). And 2 layers 3/4" subfloor. Doors, there will be only one door on this frame. It will be on the iso room side, swinging into the iso room. I have yet to frame the wall for the other door, that will create a sound lock. Attached is the drawing...

It sounds like you may be able to just add a piece of 2x4 and a piece of 1x4 to the edge of one of the floors (even with the top of the existing floor frame) and run your flooring to within 1/2" of the other floor - if you really think that one of your floors might move horizontally, you could finish the gap with a piece of homosote. This way, you'd have a gap of around 1/2" between floors horizontally, which you'd probably need to use a crevice tool on occasionally to keep stuff from filling in the gap - As to the height difference, I wasn't kidding about the bright yellow paint (it's called Federal Safety Yellow in most places) - then, paint a sign in letters as tall as the step that says "step up" - Or, if that's not the effect you want you could always add 3" to your iso floor... Steve

I was actually considering putting a 2x6 and then another 2x6 ripped down to the proper height to level w/ CR floor. There will be a small gap. Wasn't sure what to put in the "gap" between without shorting out the 2 floors together. As far as moving one of the floors, you're kidding right!? Not with the floor and walls already built on. (just a couple thousand pounds...) They're not going anywhere. As far as the yellow paint...Let's go one step further (pardon the pun), I'm thinking of adding tape lights. Thanks, Aaron

Be sure to use a sound actuated controller for the tape lights :wink:

Sound actuated controller. Hmmm...

I've been searching threshold seals, and have found a few interesting sites. They've probably already been posted at some point in time, but here goes... http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/sea ... sholds.htm http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/seals.htm http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/prod ... d_565a.pdf http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/doors ... rseals.pdf Hmmm...

Aaronw: Here's another one. (BTW, reading every page of the catalog is better than trying to use the index to go right to what you want) http://www.zerointernational.com/