no prob man.
you're right, they go from the soffit side 2" out to 8". if i had more width to my room i'd have gone to 12" or so but i was tryin to save inches.
as far as air space/sealed/unsealed/ regarding the slot resonators, you should really read up on this forum, and on the AES site.
here's a few links to some of the main info on these.
http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/index1.htm
http://www.saecollege.de/reference_mate ... encies.htm
http://www.mhsoft.nl/Helmholtzabsorber.asp
they have similar info, but i referenced them all throughout my build. you really want to have a solid understanding of how these work, and how to design/build them for your room. and how to TUNE them to your room.
here's a link to the room mode calculator that will help you tune your resonator, if you need to. i took the varied/broadband approach, but you can zone in on cerain frequencies if you need.
http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm
lastly, here's a link to Silva Productions studio build in Mass. i copied a bunch from these guys.
http://johnlsayers.com/Studio/Mainpage/ ... ctions.htm
i like knowing a least a few people are watchin my build, especially anyone getting excited WITH ME!!! so don't feel bad about questions.
the Stiz build diary - FINISHED!
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 8205.
eruss, i forgot.
DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2441
read that post 200 times if thats what it takes to figure out how to do and apply what Steve suggests.
i was lost the first time i read this, way back in the design stage. but without it, you could have your speakers, or your ears in a TERRIBLE spot.
i think this post is another DEFINITE to understand and apply.
i can try the best i can to help you through it if you get lost.
this is how i calculated the measurments for my soffits, to put my speakers the right distance off the from wall, off the side walls, and between the ceiling/floor.
it's almost time to CHILL, sip some WINE, and MAKE SOME MUSIC!!!
i have a lot more to do still, but i can feel it. the end is near. or shall i say, "the beginning is near"
I have read that many times as well. I was just wondering about your sawtooth resinators. Do they angle back to the back wall or forward?eruss, i forgot. DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!! http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2441 read that post 200 times if thats what it takes to figure out how to do and apply what Steve suggests. i was lost the first time i read this, way back in the design stage. but without it, you could have your speakers, or your ears in a TERRIBLE spot. i think this post is another DEFINITE to understand and apply. i can try the best i can to help you through it if you get lost. this is how i calculated the measurments for my soffits, to put my speakers the right distance off the from wall, off the side walls, and between the ceiling/floor.
they angle forward, check my layout in my first post, the only inaccurate thing with the drawing is the back wall of the vocal booth, it slants the opposite way to make the doorway into the storage space bigger.
Lookin' good Mike! Hey, you're moving right along I see. Got 3 questions for ya...
1.) What type of wood did you use for your resonators?
2.) Where did you get the flooring and who is the mfg. & floor style name?
3.) How long do you estimate it will be until you're done?
Thanx
thanks Cam,
i have 3 answers for you!
1) pine, i guess cuz it was cheapest and i know how it looks stained. never really read anything on wood types for slot resonators.
2) i got the flooring from ifloor.com who i highly recommend. they have crazy sales all the time, and a lot of great styles/makes. they also have a GREAT article called "floor wars" i think. it's got all you need to know about laminate floor.
the one i got is from a new company called Westhollow. it's in the Heritage Collection, and it's called Cinnamon Heartwood. i just looked for it again, and i think it's discontinued, which is probably why i got it for so cheap. in another room in my house i got Wilsonart Hawaiian Bamboo, that one looks great too. anything is better (and alot of times cheaper) than the stuff from Lowes/Depot
3) this is the question i get asked just about daily by the locals. idk. it was supposed to be this month, but it's looking like it'll be another month or 3. my work picks up like crazy in the summer, so it may be hard for me to find free time. i dont want to think about it though. . .haha.
the vocal booth is at a stand-still till the light fixture i ordered comes in. i just changed my order today actually, because the one i originally ordered has been back ordered for 3 MONTHS!!! i just switched to a light bar like the ones in the CR, only smaller. it won't look as cool as the original i ordered, but i'll work fine. and save me $100.
Another question if you don't mind:
Why did you build the two types of absorbers?
Didn't the slat absorbers give you the braod band you needed?
Why then buld the sawtooth resinators?
the big slats helped me create my RFZ, but did nothing about the long stretch of parallel wall behind me. my room was already too narrow for false walls, so i just decided 6' of sawtooth slat resonators would be cool, and easy enough to do.
not too mention they look sick!
One common misconception about slats is that the various spacing gives you discrete frequencies of absorption (spearate resonators). This is only true if the cavity behind EACH slat is sealed. If the space behind multiple slats is not partitioned off, the effect of various slat spacing is moving the center frequency of the whole slat panel, not the individual slats. Take the average slat spacing for the whole panel to calculate where the panel is tuned. Of course, wool inside and behind the slats widens the absorption bandwidth of the entire panel as well.
The really GOOD thing about the various spacing is a better diffusion of upper frequencies as they bounce off the slats. Bottom line is that unless you are partitioning the resonator, don't bother with a calc as it would be an estimate of center frequency at best. Just vary the spacing in some fashion, perhaps even a decorative one, and you should be good.
-ashley
Is it true that the thicker the insulation the lower the bass frequencies the absorber will absorb?One common misconception about slats is that the various spacing gives you discrete frequencies of absorption (spearate resonators). This is only true if the cavity behind EACH slat is sealed. If the space behind multiple slats is not partitioned off, the effect of various slat spacing is moving the center frequency of the whole slat panel, not the individual slats. Take the average slat spacing for the whole panel to calculate where the panel is tuned. Of course, wool inside and behind the slats widens the absorption bandwidth of the entire panel as well. The really GOOD thing about the various spacing is a better diffusion of upper frequencies as they bounce off the slats. Bottom line is that unless you are partitioning the resonator, don't bother with a calc as it would be an estimate of center frequency at best. Just vary the spacing in some fashion, perhaps even a decorative one, and you should be good. -ashley
Thicker insulation widens the bandwidth of absorption, spreads it out. Think of it as a Q control on an EQ. The combination of cavity depth, slat dimensions and slot size all determine the center frequency of absorption in the panel. Don't have the formula off hand.
-ashley
here's a poor shot of the finished floor.
and some pics of the finished walls/ceiling of the vocal booth, including the slot resonator.
Can't you at least put a boom box in the room to see how that sounds?
haha, boombox.
the room sounds good, i can hear when i sing, when i strum an acoustic. . . i know that already.
the main concern is the monitoring. . . the specifics of the placement of the speakers, and the flat EQ response in the listening position.
it's very obvious that the room itself sounds good, as a live room, just as it is obvious that a bathroom has a lot of reverberation. i know someone could say about LF's and how that can't be heard in a voice or with a guitar. . .but there is not much i could do about that now anyway, if i were to have a problem in that range. as for now, there is no flutter echo, nothing weird or strange happening with the few tests i've done.
I suppose you're right. Is the listening position 38% the distance of the room from the front wall?haha, boombox. the room sounds good, i can hear when i sing, when i strum an acoustic. . . i know that already. the main concern is the monitoring. . . the specifics of the placement of the speakers, and the flat EQ response in the listening position. it's very obvious that the room itself sounds good, as a live room, just as it is obvious that a bathroom has a lot of reverberation. i know someone could say about LF's and how that can't be heard in a voice or with a guitar. . .but there is not much i could do about that now anyway, if i were to have a problem in that range. as for now, there is no flutter echo, nothing weird or strange happening with the few tests i've done.
yeah, 38%, just about.
it may be a little more or less.
after i drew up that thing from the "are my speakers in a null" thread, i found exactly the right spot for my ears and of course my monitors. as expected it was somewhere around 38%
Ok. Cool!yeah, 38%, just about. it may be a little more or less. after i drew up that thing from the "are my speakers in a null" thread, i found exactly the right spot for my ears and of course my monitors. as expected it was somewhere around 38%
finally got a chance to work in here again, the summer was a killer with my job, but i'm ready finish this thing!!
installed the light in the vocal booth. looks great.
installed door seals.
just got more speaker cloth from my local fabric store, so i decided to tackle 2/3's of the back wall.
the corner trap used up almost all of my scrap 703 to fill it, then 3" of roxul to make the face nice and SMOOVE!
the other corner is going to get a moveable corner trap (naturally- so the door can still open)
tonight i finished my 'moveable' bass trap for the remaining corner.
this needs to move to keep access to the door which leads outside.
i didn't finish above the trap yet. it will be a matchin angle so when the trap is in place, it looks like a full size bass trap.
if you've been silently following my build, you may have noticed a name change in the title thread. . . here's the story.
i had my small basement studio running for a number of years prior to this move/build. i was planning on changing the name to U N I studios, because my pseudonym is Jive the Universal aka: Jive the U-N-I.
after speaking with my accountant, i was made aware of how annoying it is to change the name of a legal business. after all that, i'm going back to my original name. annoying. but i'm fine with it. . . i think.
your buildout diary is awesome... i'm probably going to steal your moveable corner bass trap design... hope you don't mind!
thanks for posting all the pix.
k
thanks o'sandled one.
been checkin your build too. stone work looks awesome!
anyway,
i only had time to hang my new (outside) door and build the skeleton for the rest of the back wall/corner. you'll see more when its done, but you should get the idea. acoustically i don't think this is too crucial, but every bit counts, and its gonna make it look way cooler.
my glass finally, finally, FINALLY, FINALLY got here. $500 worth. 1/2 and 3/8 in laminate. good Lord are these things heavy. i decided to go with the 1/2 first, on the outside. everything was done as Rod's book suggests. the glazing tape is EXTREMELY sticky, but otherwise - it was easy.
didn't finish yet. but i'm confident the other side will be just as smooth.
and SOMEBODY LEAVE ME A COMMENT!!! i'm gettin lonely over here.