Soultree Studio Garage conversion build Queensland Australia

Hi Sharward, My sincere apologies... I just can't get enough of the Sharwoods indian curries and have it on the brain :lol: Can anyone please describe " 30 pound roofing felt" in more detail as it draws a blank at all the trade places I've rung and a few roofing specialists as well. cheers N Y M O

Hi Sharward, Thanx for that url. I have beefed up the insulation...is it right now ?? Cheers N Y M O

Maybe. I just don't want to state anything too authoritatively because you're going about this in a way that I would not do so myself. (Actually, in a way that I had planned to myself and then I abandoned such a plan for a host of reasons.) I will say this: if you're only going to use two layers of wood sheets (and I'd probably say this too if you were planning to use three), I think Green Glue would be a very good product to try to further dampen the sheets. The insulation will do a pretty good job, but Green Glue will do an excellent job. I think they'll still resonate, but at least the resonance won't sustain nearly as long. Beyond that, I really have to bow out of "quasi expert mode" on this project... It's not that I don't want to help... I just believe strongly in "do no harm." --Keith :mrgreen:

Thanx for your advice Sharward, You maybe wondering on my motives for all this, but this will be a temporary room..2 or 3 years max and will later become a live room(or a garage) when the new control room is built. I live on acreage and the nearest house is about 150m away.. so that total isolation is not a premium problem as it is to most people on this list. I am trying to get a basic floor done , then the walls..and then I'm sure I'll receive some flack for the ceiling :lol: I appreciate all the help you moderators have shown me and yes, even though I'm over 50, I'm still a wayward child :lol: cheers N Y M O

NYMO, As Sharward discussed - I think your options on the green glue are either 1. look at importing it (I can't see it in materials but a search will give you some guys in QLD that bought it by the carton. 2. Bostik Firecaulk - 10 L tubs approx $270 each. Available locally - not stocked by anyone though (that I know of) so the wait is a few weeks. I used equivalent of 20 litres ($540) and 60 sausages (@$10) 3. There are equivalents but hard to find Hudsons stock some sausages of similar - I think it is called Firesound. But be prepared to buy a LOT! :) Hope this helps a little buddy. Si's studio is called "Suburbia". ;) We are looking at him possibly producing some of our next offering - went for a meeting to catch up and have a cuppa and ended up talking about maybe doing 1 or 2 songs at his studio as well to see if we can try some different ideas with different pools of musos/producers.

Thanx Sideshow, Any chance you can help me with this ?? http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8157 Cheers N Y M O

Ok...first layer floor is going down...this is a glue'n'screw ! Jimmy and Marty are doing the work. I've attached a photo of the join...does that need to be accoustically sealed?? What about the screw holes...do they need to be sealed as well ?? Cheers N Y M O

Hey buddy, Yes seal everything that has a path to the outside world. I did and it pays -and it costs ;) In relation to the other quizzes at the building products forum I will be compiling a list of Oz stuff with USA and UK guys so we can track this. Bradford custom make batts approx 36kg cubic m. Semi rigid with cloth backing. Insulco alos do a semi ridid that does the job. Do you mean soundcheck (13mm)? The 16mm fire rated gyprock is the best for this application. Go with tailor made 13mm stuff if you want - it tests OK too. Hey why aren't you doing anything in the photos?????!!!! :shock:

Hi Sideshow, Thanx for your reply :) I am still stuck at the flooring stage. (Ok Don't laugh) :( I have put the first layer of yellow tongue..but someone has told me that i should have put 2 sheets of MDF down instead :oops: I am NOT going to pull that flooring up. Should I... 1) Add a layer of 16mm boral fyrchek(which i have obtained already) and then a layer of 16mm mdf ?? 2) or green glue one layer of 16mm mdf to the yellow tongue ?? it would cost $968 AU for 2 boxes of green glue...ulp Any thoughts greatly appreciated ! Cheers N Y M O

Nymo, Unsure of the question... :oops: For the walls just go with the Fyrecheck 16mm....why the ply? I suppose it can't hurt but that green glue is expensive...as you say. In the grand scheme of things what's another grand...;) I know....pain - but I am about 25% over budget now BUT I started recording last night - the killer was things like architrave and my wife's choice of lounges and chairs......woooooah!!! I wanted a $400 couch - but home we came with almost $2500 worth of "essential" furniture.... In short - pay the xtra now and know you did your best - and you won't get that "if only'' feeling ;) Re the floor - there will be quite a heavy load on it so beefing it is best. BUT you know I didn't float the floor this way (I simply used laminated floor on rubber on concrete) so it may be best to grab hold of someone here that has floated a floor with frames successfully 8) Cheers buddy

Thanx Sideshow for your help (Love the web site BTW !) Ok..got some good advice from a studio designer here in Brisbane. The second layer of floor is on. I am on the job doing really important stuff like the vacuuming 8) Next is to fill in the windows...got my wife to yell at the builder...he's coming a few times a week now :wink: Also got a server isolation cabinet that should prove some fun installing and sealing...questions coming soon.

next step...covering the windows As you can see in the larger window, the builder has siliconed sealed the first 5/8 mdf in. He has then glued 3 in insulation onto the back of the board. We are then placing a double layer board as a plug after insulation. Question Does this look OK ?? As the room is so small now , we have decided to put the iso box thing so it is on a platform behind the roll a door and will be sticking about 12 inches onto the room floor thru the wall frame. Question What will I have to do to seal the front of this between itself and the frame ?? Cheers N Y M O

ok..this weekend the windows got covered over. a layer of 5/8th mdf was siliconed into the window frame and then insulation was glued to that...then 2 layers of 5/8 were used, the inner one in the window frame, then the outer layer bolted to the wall using rubber and metal. It actually proved to be a lot harder than anticipated and a large amount of pressure had to used to keep it all together. onto the framing next....... Cheers N Y M O

ok next stage ...the frame. Also from the book of " How not to do it" ! :wink: It is a steel frame and i had the idea of using the hat channel (or whatever its called) on the back of the frame to basically hold the insulation in when it goes in. I have seen several threads where they have been tield with a twine, pallet wire etc The hat channel had silicon put on every screw to stop any vibrations and that has seemed to work so far. The corners of the frames are butted against each other with the rubber pucks left over from the flooring float. I can see your faces grimacing in horror as you look at the ceiling. :shock: For various reasons, I have decided not to replace the ceiling and the top of the frame is bolted through to the roof joist with a 100mm roofing bolt which has the neoprene . This is through the bottom of the top of stud frame and then goes through the 15mm rubber which is slightly compressed as it is against the drywall on the ceiling. I understand there are various acoustic crimes I have committed here, but I really didn't want to redo the ceiling. If anyone thinks I should think again (or be locked up) please respond :twisted: Standby for the next exciting installment...electrical and HVAC :)

for those of you still interested.... The wall insulation is now up. The electrical has gone in. A small a/c unit should be in by the weekend. The builder is constructing a door frame as we speak. Question For various reasons I cannot put a wall in front of the garage door so, as you can see from the photo, i will have 2 layers of 16mm drywall and then the insulation... should I put a 16mm layer of drywall on the other side ?? should I leave it blank ?? should i put something like a 10mm drywall on ?? My stage gear and the sony 3348 will be going in that small area outside the actual studio walls. the hole in the wall is where my sound iso box will be. next installment coming soon :)

Hey man, looking good. Don't worry; we're all here watching yer progress ;) Why can't you add a wall in front of the garage door? Is it being used as the entrance/exit of the room? If so, that garage door really is THE weak link. I'd replace it with solid doors and add a SECOND door at the place where the wall should be. Haven't really payed attention to your plans/sketches (if any) and such but, again, the progress looks good.

Thanx Ro, Its good to get some encouragement :) Where that Samsung airconditioner is now, will be a sony 3348, 48 track digital tape machine. the hole in the wall that is there now will be filled with the iso box (pic up above) . the rest of the space will be used for my stage gear..i play about 3 shows a week so it has to go in and out all the time...thats why i need the garage door, not only for security but for the gear as well. On that inside wall will be 2 layers of 5/8th drywall...i am asking what i should put on the other side (that the sony will be on)...one or two layers of 5/8 drywall or something thinner ? Cheers N Y M O

Anyone want to comment on the door construction ?? I showed the builder the detail from Rods book...hopefully he got it right ? Cheers N Y M O

Hi there, A couple more weeks go by...a bit more gets done :wink: The walls have all been drywalled and the iso box has been put in place. This will house the console psu's and all the computers , hard drives and some of the interfaces Sonic solutions etc. Of course I am making sure the iso box is REALLy sealed as it breaks thru the wall. This wall will have another layer of 5/8 drywall on it internally. On the rear is 1/2 in. For those interested, I actually helped a friend install the drywall...so i have been relegated above Vacuum Cleaner Status :roll: I am gettind a *pro* mudder/finisher to do all the walls. Question Does every bit of the mudding have to include acoustic sealant or is it only on the wall/ floor /ceiling joins etc ?? (a reply would be greatly appreciated) Until next time...

So, I see you have a Samsung mini split air conditioner. What will you be doing for fresh air supply? Surely you know that your mini split does not provide any fresh air... :roll: --Keith :mrgreen:

Hi Sharward, Mmmmm...fresh air...thats one of the great things about Australia and where I live....i can leave the door open now and again to get some in :lol: Cheers N Y M O

That is not going to work, nymo. Anytime you build habitable space (and you are) without operable windows, you must have "mechanical ventilation" supplying fresh air supplied to the room while it is occupied. I believe the minimum is 15 cubic feet per minute per occupant. Quoting from the esteemed Rod Gervais from this thread (which you should read fully):

The requirements I noted in my last post - that's for general buildings - not super duper air tight recording studios - where there is NO air infiltration due to the construction. Once you're done weatherstripping those doors - what the hell are people supposed to breathe? You have a very bad - VERY unsafe situation there - and if i were you I would seriously consider making your landlord do something about it....... I would hate to be a person in your iso booth for 10 to 15 minutes breathing in my own carbon-dioxide instead of oxygen....... you had better be installing co2 alarms in this studio of yours.

Your plan to open the door once in a while is what I had planned to do myself. When I presented that plan to my city's building department senior inspector, he literally laughed me into submission. The fresh air requirement was a major challenge for me in my design phase, along with whether or not to float a floor. (I ultimately did not float a floor.) I decided on a fresh air system that will be based on a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) with befy silencers to preserve isolation. It's really unfortunate that you didn't study my thread before you started your build. To be honest, you have made and are still making many of the same mistakes I started to make on paper and would have been destined to make in construction if I hadn't been committed to our building permit process, following building codes, and getting as much professional (and helpful amateur) advice here before driving my first nail. --Keith :mrgreen:

So what will happen Sharward....will he suphocate?? I have worked in some of the tightest basement studios imaginable, with ZERO ventilation, and actually lived to tell about it. Just curious.

I'm not a health expert, but I've been told by multiple construction experts that it's illegal and unhealthy, and that's all I need to know. That being said, I just looked it up -- here are excerpts from what the United States Environmental Protection Agency says about indoor air quality:

The term "sick building syndrome" (SBS) is used to describe situations in which building occupants experience acute health and comfort effects that appear to be linked to time spent in a building, but no specific illness or cause can be identified. The complaints may be localized in a particular room or zone, or may be widespread throughout the building. . .
Indicators of SBS include:
• Building occupants complain of symptoms associated with acute discomfort, e.g., headache; eye, nose, or throat irritation; dry cough; dry or itchy skin; dizziness and nausea; difficulty in concentrating; fatigue; and sensitivity to odors.
• The cause of the symptoms is not known.
• Most of the complainants report relief soon after leaving the building. . .
Causes of Sick Building Syndrome The following have been cited causes of or contributing factors to sick building syndrome:
Inadequate ventilation: In the early and mid 1900's, building ventilation standards called for approximately 15 cubic feet per minute (cfm) of outside air for each building occupant, primarily to dilute and remove body odors. As a result of the 1973 oil embargo, however, national energy conservation measures called for a reduction in the amount of outdoor air provided for ventilation to 5 cfm per occupant. In many cases these reduced outdoor air ventilation rates were found to be inadequate to maintain the health and comfort of building occupants. Inadequate ventilation, which may also occur if heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems do not effectively distribute air to people in the building, is thought to be an important factor in SBS. In an effort to achieve acceptable IAQ while minimizing energy consumption, the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) recently revised its ventilation standard to provide a minimum of 15 cfm of outdoor air per person (20 cfm/person in office spaces). Up to 60 cfm/person may be required in some spaces (such as smoking lounges) depending on the activities that normally occur in that space (see ASHRAE Standard 62-1989). . .

(The above are excerpts from Indoor Air Facts No. 4 (revised) Sick Building Syndrome.) Mick (et al), the experts have spoken on this. It's a fact: fresh air ventilation is required for health reasons, is required for compliance with all modern building codes, and is especially necessary within the context of air-tight studio construction. Respectfully, anecdotal "I didn't have fresh air ventilation and I didn't have any problems" type testimony is, to be honest, not a legitimate argument against. To raise it implies this is a matter of debate, when it honestly isn't: we're humans and we need oxygen -- end of story. :) --Keith :mrgreen: