One word answer for all that. POPPYCOCK! I am a licensed builder and I see it all the time. Building codes are generally a good thing.....they generally help save the consumer from unscupulous contractors etc...but there is as much fat and red tape in them as anything. IN MY OPINION Sharward, you take them to the enth degree. This is one of those cases. I have worked 16 hour sessions with musicians stuck in a 10 x 8 booth with no ventilation, and aside from the occasional "man it's hot in here", I have never seen single one drop dead, pass out, complain they can't breath, etc.. Am I saying fresh air is not a consideration? NOT AT ALL. But I am saying in the thousands of things you need to consider in building a studio, it is not even on the first 5 pages on priorities. Sometimes I think you get lost in the details.....but that's just my opinion.
Soultree Studio Garage conversion build Queensland Australia
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 8107.
Oh, how about we at least agree that it should be on one of the first four pages of priorities? :roll:
I take issue with the "enth degree" remark... I take codes as far as they are intended to be taken -- not more, not less -- especially as far as safety is concerned.
Uhh..Thanx for the discourse Sharward :roll:
The mudder came in and did his thing...sealed all the correct joins with the caulk.
Tomorrow he comes to put the second layer of 5/8 drywall on the iso wall...the rest of the room is only one layer (something John Sayers said
:wink: )
Next up is the door..not looking forward to that.
cheers
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Great progress!
And although I do agree that buidling codes are not always needed to be taken very strictly, I really would consider putting in two ventilations shafts and putting a ventilator in one of them.
Really, I cannot imagine anyone going through a great effort like you guys are doing and intentionally not putting in ventilation?!
Good luck,
Dirk
Hi Dirk,
Thanx for your concerns..i will look into it at some stage soon.
The professional setter came around today(Mothers Day) and put the second layer on the iso wall.
Amazing the difference in the look of the wall and there wasn't a 1/2" gap at the top to fill with caulk and backer rod !
He is also a chippy so he may be able to do the door as well, as the other guy is too hard too pin down !
More later...
cheers
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Nymo - you say that as if it's a good thing - when it is ( in fact) a bad thing....... RodAmazing the difference in the look of the wall and there wasn't a 1/2" gap at the top to fill with caulk and backer rod !
Hi Rod,
Thanx for looking at my thread.
I'm referring to the second layer of drywall that was put up today. It has about a 1/4 in gap ready for sealing.
The other three walls are single layer of 5/8 th drywall with between a 1/4 in to 3/4 in gap which was done by the first(not so good) drywall guy.
The new guy still used a lot of caulk to fill these gaps (even with the backer rod) but he is going to re do another layer of caulk over the areas where it has shrunk.
Is it Ok to do that ?? Or can one over caulk ??
As I told him....plastic glove...wet finger...narrower in centre..wider on the edges !
See..i have learned something from this forum
:lol:
Cheers
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Hi there,
Ok..this is a close up of the top of the drywall where it meets the ceiling.
As you can see it has cracked where the caulk is on the top of the board.
Any ideas how to fix this ??
Cheers
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Nymo,
The only way to fix it is to remove the caulk and recaulk it - the problem is that it was not tooled properly at the edge meeting the drywall - it was at the ceiling.
Rod
hi Rod,
When you mean not tooled properly ..what does that mean exactly (the guy is here at the moment)
Cheers
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Mr Rod means it simply was not done right! the calk was not calked in the gaps well! it should of been filled in more like from the ceiling and from the top of the gyprock so the calk sticks to both sexy areas!
WOW
did you get it fixed?
Woof Woof!
Hi Govinda,
Yea...a reply (us Australians are a friendly bunch!)
Yeah... I worked that out after a while ! (You know what tool means in Australia !!!)
It was done by a prof gyprock guy(who I'm paying)...he believes it is because the top of the wall gyprock has no paper on it whereas the ceiling part has paper on it , so it can't stick to the rock its self.
He has also re done the line of the ceiling ($300 later) photos of which I'll send later.
Just painting the ceiling and walls this weekend.
cheers
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Well he might believe that - after all there were those people who believed the world was flat - but (as we all know) believing a thing does not in and of itself make that thing true.......... The joint is much too big for starters (it should be 1/4 to 3/8" max.......) And I can see that it wasn't tooled proerly. Sinceely, RodIt was done by a prof gyprock guy(who I'm paying)...he believes it is because the top of the wall gyprock has no paper on it whereas the ceiling part has paper on it , so it can't stick to the rock its self.
hi Rod,
Thanx for your reply.
Let me clarify....the original drywalling was done by a "mate" and he left up to a 3/4 in gap in places. Then I got the pro in to do the second layer on the iso wall and to caulk the gaps and re do the ceiling.
Question
What should he do about the original gap ??
When you say it isn't tooled properley , i presume you are advocating the "wet finger, deeper on the edges, thin in the middle " tooling ?
cheers
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Nymo, I don't know what to do about a gapo that big except for to cut back the drywall and fill it back in with the proper gap. The reason we say a caulk joint of 1/4 to 3/8" max is bacause with 5/8" drywall that is the largest gap you can get backer rod to stay in and still have room for caulk - when I look at the joint in the picture I can't even imagine how there is backer rod behind it....... When I say tooling" I mean that the caulk has to be firmly compressed into the material it is sealing to. It should feather-edge down to literally nothing at it's outer edges...... I can see that at th ceiling - but I donot see that paper thin leading edge at the bottom of the joint. Sincerely, Rodhi Rod, Thanx for your reply. Let me clarify....the original drywalling was done by a "mate" and he left up to a 3/4 in gap in places. Then I got the pro in to do the second layer on the iso wall and to caulk the gaps and re do the ceiling. Question What should he do about the original gap ?? When you say it isn't tooled properley , i presume you are advocating the "wet finger, deeper on the edges, thin in the middle " tooling ?
Hi nymo,
been reading your thread tonight...good stuff.
Just trying to naswer your question about the 703 equivalent...I used Bradford's 75 mm soundscreen R 2.0 in my studio and it's great stuff.So I would say it's at least as good..will try to find a pic of package and post it if I can
cheers
here we go...
Hi Sen.
Thanx for making contact !
I actually used Soundstop under my floor.
The problem with it is that it is too light...best info on this list seems to be that it should weigh 48kg m/3.... good for walls etc
Cheers
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yep, that's what this stuff is.just about the right density I'd say.I think this was 35-36 kg / m3. Even if you need more for acoustic treatment later on when you tune your room, I would recommend this stuff. cheersThe problem with it is that it is too light...best info on this list seems to be that it should weigh 48kg m/3.... good for walls etc Cheers N Y M O
hi there,
I had the roof plastering re aligned from a couple of years ago.
All the walls have been painted (still need another coat) and the laminate floor boards are about to go down.
The light line on the red wall is where the 32 inch monitor goes(there is a wooden panel behind there.)
The door will be going in on the weekend.
Until nextime....
cheers
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Hi there,
Sorry...forgot...here is what the floor will be like.
Cheers
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Hi there,
Still haven't got a door..the guy never showed...apparently coming tomorrow :shock:
Most of the floor has been done and I had to get the rack in...it won't fit in after the door will be done.
Spent the day filling it (will send photo soon)
Soon....
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Hi there...I'm back :)
well..its nearly finished....thank god !
I've nearly packed away all the building tools.
Still in the process of putting acoustic treatments on and i was sending these photos to the company that is supplying them, so i thought i'd send a couple here (will send all photos when rtoom finished)
I did DIY front bass traps, clouds and rear trap.
Until next time...maybe not so long...
cheers
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