Lost Studios new construction build Portland Oregon

mm, shoes make excellent decouplers ;) haha, concrats on the winnings.

I graduated from Evergreen as well...1991 And for some reason, your name seems familiar.

Aaron, Grad in 1982, little brother in 85. Lived on NE 124th ave and 5th Tom

TomVan wrote:

thats pronounced warsh-in- tony-en . . .

Um... No, it's not. :twisted:

It was just a joke, Sharwood :roll:

Well the siding is finished on the garage door rocked,caulked and insulated. Started on the bathroom and breakroom. Had to break for the game which turned into a nap. Tom BTW I cranked the stereo up today and walked around the building. Not too bad but found some leaks that I pulled apart and recaulked. I am also going to caulk all around the outside prior to painting anyway. Need to get a decibal meter and will post results

A very productive weekend and a good use of time. Put up many walls and a lot of wiring. 1500 linear feet of twine on the back of walls to hold up insulation. Now I am tired of stapling. :lol: Hope to have it ready for rock in about a week. Cross your fingers for me Tom

Hey Tom -- don't you need jack studs to support the horizontal window frame pieces? :roll: --Keith :mrgreen:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/wind ... raming.htm Scroll down to Fig. 1 - you're missing jacks, trimmers, and a header. Other than that, it's PERFECT :wink: Steve

Steve Actually missing quite a few. Ran out of gas around 6PM. And I knew someone would say something.......... :P I have some jacks and trimmers in and need to put in more but no Headers for interior walls. My understanding (and correct me if I am wrong) but there is no load on these walls from above. Not to say there isn't two layers of sheet rock and a few studs hanging above them. If I need headers I can have the glass trimmed down. Tried it myself a few times and cant cut 3/8" without breaking it. There is a liquidation store that had 30" square pieces of 3/8" glass shelves for $2 a piece. Its not the lifting that gets you its all the bending over :shock: Gettin old here Tom

Only thing I've seen that relaxes code a bit is slightly longer span per inch depth for "walls not supporting floors or roofs" - but I tend to overkill on most stuff if it's not gonna overload something ELSE... Also, is that wall gonna be a single frame as shown now, or a double? Personally, instead of cutting down the glass I'd chop the upper jacks and insert the header; especially if those king studs have had trimmers added inside the window sills to support a header... Steve

Only thing I've seen that relaxes code a bit is slightly longer span per inch depth for "walls not supporting floors or roofs

I don't uderstand what you are saying here. Can you spell it out fo me dumb peoples. :? The last few hours I have been thinking about cutting the wood instead. If I have too. And yes walls are double framed ..Just need eight more walls and I am finished. Yesterday had a wall fastened/anchored and noticed I had put it in upside down. Tearing it out wasn't any fun. :oops: Tom

Sorry, should have quoted the resource - now I'd have to find it again. Found a code reference to a city back east that shows a table for non-loadbearing walls and headers - nowhere does it say you can leave the header OUT, it just doesn't have to be as wide (tall) - standard 4x wide headers are minimum of 1 nominal inch per foot of span, but the table I saw for non-loadbearing let you go 10 feet with an 8 inch header, etc, and below 4 feet (IIRC) there were just dashed lines in the column, presumably meaning no header required... Steve

Steve Ok decided to google it and this is what I found. http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/bu ... endix3.pdf Now does that mean that I have too tall of an upper area above the control window that I need a header? Looks like the small windows are fine and the doors. Not to say over kill on framing isn't a desire. At what point are you throwing money away. Now I do have say you posted something on Marc/Guitardads thread about solid core doors being heavy and needing support. I will agree with you on that since I have had to move mine 3 times so far to get them out of the way. I think I will revisit the rough door frames. Let me know what you think Tom

While that's a good guide for ENERGY and MINIMUM requirements, I guarantee that if you use that guide you'll be back wanting us to help "lick your wounds" long before you're through wanting to use your studio - besides the major headache of first GETTING, and later MAINTAINING, a good seal on your doors, keep in mind that glass weighs just under 4 TIMES what gypsum weighs - unless my eye is off, your big window looks like a 3070; which also means that you're using 16" centers for your framing - this will cost you maybe 2-3 dB of TL at the low end, where it's hardest to come by. 24" centers keeps a wall a bit more "floppy" in the panels, which works kinda like the "soft" martial arts... Also, since glass weighs nearly 4 times what gypsum weighs, if you use 3/8 and 1/2" glass the total weight of glass in the light side would run around 9 PSF, or about 200 pounds - the thicker side would run maybe 225. Given that, does your framing still look strong to you? Now, add to the fact that you're using double frames - this means that having extra wood inside the wall will NOT increase coupling to any degree, and where it does, the MASS will be increased to compensate for any decrease in average air gap depth - so the only DOWN side to beefing things up here is more cost up front, a bit more labor, in exchange for knowing you won't ever have to do it AGAIN. Your choice, I think you already know the way I would do it... Steve

Steve, Yes I already knew what you would do.... :lol: ...And cost is not the issue. Making sure it doesn't fall or collapse would be the main issue. Already started working it with a header. My long walls with no doors or windows are 2' OC and the walls with doors and windows are 16" OC. Figured that one out quickly. Thanks again for that cautious eye and sleepless nights worrying about us kids Tom

worked on a few things tonight one being the header over the control booth and got side tracked knowing the bathroom and break room could be sheet rocked so I worked on the silencers for fresh air and attic venting and will put them in place with the hot water heater tomorrow over the bathroom. Going for a beer and the couch Tom

Awesome!!! 8) I'll be making some of those pretty soon myself! :D I'm actually planning to line mine with plastic so that the fibers don't get dislodged under the current. You might want to do that too... Unless you think I'm nuts. :lol: What kind of insulation are you using in your silencers? --Keith :mrgreen:

Keith, 703 for the insulation. I agree with the thought of the fibers being released into the air but thinking about lining them afterwards with plastic?? Would that not defeat the absorption of the insulation? Maybe a filter that is interchangeable at discharge? Need to think about that. Maybe a removable filter just like a furnace that would stop dust from outside entering the system too!? I have been procrastinating on building these but it took me about an hour to do. They are very rough but will never be seen by the public. Caulk the crap out of everything Tom

Tom, Thanks for posting detailed pics of your silencers, I'm coming to terms with the fact that i'll need them for my build and the pics take the mystery out of them! What are the dimensions?

My silencers (all four of 'em) will be seen. They'll be soffits.

Adam, Size is around 16"x16"x4'. I had seen someone else build them awhile ago but could not find the thread. They built them larger. Maybe 2x2x3 I did a little research and noticed there wasn't too much to them. Keith, Its been a few months back but I got the basic info from you via Steve.

Sory, but i didnt get the porpouse of the silencers... It must be somewhere in your post, but i missed me... But i liked the pictures and im curious...is it 4 air conditiong?? Sory my ignorance.. http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... c&start=30 thats my studio buliding... Djo (if you leave spaces either side of a pasted link it actually shows up as one, and we can just click on it. Changed it for you... Steve

Djo, Its for fresh air into the studio. Since everything is caulked air tight without fresh air it gets warm/smelly. My last studio they had to open the door after every take just to air it out. The second one is for the rafter area. Removing the warm air between the roof line and ceiling. Keeps it cooler in the summer In theory as the sound finds its way through the duct to the silencer it dissapates the sound before leaving the building Tom

Tom, you're welcome - if I wasn't losing sleep here, I'd be losing it somewhere else :? soon as I figure out how to lose it COMPLETELY, I'm planning to take over the world (actually, if I ever felt responsible for the freakin' mess the world is ALREADY in I'd probably look for one of those Japanese swords with the "special" holder... Steve