Cyeazel's project studio...... planning and preparing

Quickcrete is a brand name, not a product. You'll have to be more specific.

Alright, since I don't know much about quikrete(obviously), then forget that for now. Keith, what would you do to level off 1/16" to 1/32" 'dips' on a concrete surface?

Those are pretty tiny dips... Do you have to level them off? If yes, I'm not sure what to use. I'd be concerned about the fills flaking/cracking.

I was thinking it would be important to level off the surface of my concrete for any future door seals. I don't know, maybe overkill. I'm kind of brainstorming "outloud", trying to locate any potential problems whether they are major or minor while I wait for my floor ratings. I pretty much can't do anything until I get those results. :x

http://www.sider-oxydro.com/floor_coatings.htm 8)

I would think that floor imperfections under walls can be addressed with Sill Seal. Under door thresholds, a liberal bead of quality acoustic sealant should do the trick. You have my permission not to worry about it. :) Perhaps others more qualified than I will write their permission slips here! :lol: --Keith :mrgreen: Edit: Knightfly's post crossed mine. Does this mean he thinks it's worth worrying about? :?

Yes, for door seals; if you're using a drop seal, you want to be able to cut coke on that part of the floor for best seal (not that I'd know about that - if I had enough money for coke that doesn't come in a can or 2-liter bottle, my own studio would be finished and WSDG would have more pix on their site)

I guess I always assumed there'd be a threshold for the door to seal against... I never pictured the seal pressing against the bare concrete floor... :?

Thanks for that link Steve. I will take a way closer look at that when I've got more time. From first glance, it looks like they'll have exactly what I need. So judging by your comment ''cutting coke'', that would indicate a very, nearly perfect level surface. Sorry if I'm a little slow on that one, just making sure I'm reading you right. Keith, I thought about acoustic sealant too but I do want to use drop seals for doors.

I was figuring on drop seals onto a perfectly flat threshold, which is sealed to an imperfect floor using an acoustic sealant.

Yeah, that would work too. Never thought of it that way.

Steve, would this be a good choice. http://www.sider-oxydro.com/concrete_bonding__repair.htm The actual product is the Sider Repair.

Yeah, the main advantage to drop seals is that you can have a perfectly flat floor for rolling racks, etc, thru doors without lifting. Also zero tripping hazard. http://www.sider-oxydro.com/floor_coatings.htm They don't give enough info on the site to make a decision; I'd contact them about their epoxy-based self-leveling Sider-Floor Finish HCR. Sounds pretty durable, so wouldn't erode like cement based products might. We did a floor at work several years ago, guys came in and spread this type of stuff around on a concrete floor - they wore these "sandals" that look like an upside down "hindu bed of nails" and walked right through the stuff as they spread it; It's been really durable. IIRC, though, it took several days to dry. Be sure to ask about that part too... Steve

Yeah, that Sider Level stuff looks way better. I totally missed the whole Floor covering link and went straight to concrete repair. I'm gonna call them over there and I'm pretty sure that the sider level stuff is what I'm gonna get. Just the description on the site seemed to be enough. Thanks Steve. :D

I forgot to ask this earlier. I have a layer of ceramic tile on the concrete. Should I tear up all the tile and repair the bare slab, or should I just fix up the bad spots on the tile? I figured I might want to know that one before I look into a leveling repair product. :oops:

By reading Julian's thread, I think it inspired me to fill my hollow blocks with foam too. Turns out my understanding of damping wasn't quite accurate but I trust the experts here.

I want to put a layer of drywall on the inner sides of the block walls along the stairs, mainly for aesthetic purposes. Is it important to plug the airgaps between each block before putting up the drywall for resonance reasons or is it not really a big deal? If I do plug the gaps, should I use a mortar compound or can I just use my butyl rope or some kind of calk? Still waiting for my engineer. On the bright side, all this waiting has motivated me to get going on all the boring but neccesary sealing of outer shell work.

If the block was installed correctly there shouldn't BE any gaps; can you take a close-up pic so we can see what you're talking about? Also, are these blocks hollow and do you intend to foam them first, or?? Steve

Yeah, I can post a picture later today. I think my description was a little off when I called the spaces gaps. What I meant was the perimeter of each block where I feel like there should be mortar is unfilled leaving about a 1/4" airspace around the perimeter of each block. In reguards to filling the cores with foam, I wasn't planning to because these walls are only on the first floor and the studio is on the second. I would only want to fill the cores of the upstairs walls.

I've got my HVAC engineer coming today. Still waiting on the structural engineer but I'm glad to finally get started on the HVAC. I"ll be sure to post questions and progress with this issue too. Man, I'm all over the place.

Here's a couple of pics I hope will better explain what I was trying to ask about the block wall along the stairs. I'm not even sure if I need to worry about this issue seeing as how these block walls stop at the second floor deck. They aren't crucial to isolation (I don't think), but I figured I'd ask in case you think it would be beneficial to go ahead and fill up those spaces before the drywall layer goes up.

I'm getting confused; you said this isn't part of the studio - so why do acoustic considerations enter into it? :shock:

It is part of the studio in that the stairs are the main way up and into the studio. I just thought that putting a layer of drywall over the blocks would look nicer. These walls are not crucial to isolation or acoustics but I figured I'd ask about the airspaces on the block wall just to be safe. If not filling them would give the walls a funny resonance or have a negative affect on them, then I'd like to fill them, even if it only makes a small difference. Just trying to be safe, unless you see this as a non issue.

Are you still confused? Let me know if you are.

IMHO, it's not necessary. Is this you trying to do something because it's frustrating to not be doing something? If so... Don't just do something -- stand there! ;-) --Keith :mrgreen: