Cyeazel's project studio...... planning and preparing

i would probably build rectangular isolation walls and then build the treatments inside. the control room should have the speakers shoot down the long end but in this case, it may be sensible to just have the rear wall more dead to reduce any reflections back at the desk.

Gullfo, You must be almost flat out providing help to almost all posts all over this place, thanks for your good work and encouragement, keep it up. A quick question I hope :wink:

i would probably build rectangular isolation walls and then build the treatments inside.

I can see in your attachment that broadband/broadband and broadband/bass trap treatment share the same cavity, is that intentionally or is it just an side effect of using objects being cut'n'pasted? :D

Thank you very much for your advise. I appreciate it. Building the isolation walls rectangular will be much easier. Is there a way to avoid the 3 leaf effect when building the acoustic walls (slat resonators) inside the isolation walls or will these type of walls not cause the 3 leaf effect in the first place? Oh and thank you also for the drawing too.

Kaj - yes, much of the more intricate details are missing like the cavity separators, etc but none of this is copy and paste... 8) the slat resonators aren't a third leaf.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, if I build in this fashion, the slat resonator walls will not act as a third leaf? Again, thank you for your time.

thats correct. and on the deep parts of the slat resonators, add a dividing panel to split the cavities.

thats correct. and on the deep parts of the slat resonators, add a dividing panel to split the cavities.

If you have a chance, would you explain this a little more for me. I'm not 100% sure I understand what you mean. Oh, and just out of curiosity, why do slat resonator walls not cause a third leaf? I obviously don't know much about slat resonator walls :?

i think for it to act as a leaf it has to be air tight. where as the the gaps between the slats lets air through

technically, the slot resonator has to act as a third leaf because it has some amount of trapped air volume (even with the openings) which transfers energy to the isolation wall at frequencies not neutralized by the Helmholtz effect or dampened by the rigid insulation inside) but i believe its a marginal amount of third leaf effect. the dividing panel separates the air cavities and improves the efficiency of the absorber. if you're worried, you could choose another set of treatments... either way, having your floor coupled to the exterior walls will eventually be the bigger issue for isolation than the slot resonators...

either way, having your floor coupled to the exterior walls will eventually be the bigger issue for isolation than the slot resonators...

This won't be an issue because I'm using the Kinetics RIM flooring system to float my new studio floors. New walls will rest on top the floated floor resulting in a continuous cushion of trapped air b/w inner and outer shells.

if you're worried, you could choose another set of treatments...

I assume you mean using foam and other pre-made products right?

foam, premade, or diy rigid insulation absorbers, etc. you'll need some of that for the ceilings in any event. what type of floor? cement over forms? or just wood? also, why trapped air?

what type of floor? cement over forms? or just wood?

The new floated floor will consist of a 3/4" plywood layer, then 2 layers of 5/8" drywall with green glue between, another layer of 3/4" plywood and a final layer of 3/8" plywood.

also, why trapped air?

Sorry, I wasn't trying to be misleading. I was just referring to the continuous airspace between inner and outer leafs when building a "room within a room" for isolation purposes.

cyeazel; what program did you draw this in?

re: the drywall in the floor - doesn't that risk fragmenting since its generally brittle? wouldn't MDF maybe be a better choice? denser, less likely to break up?

Never thought of it that way. I was just following the kinetics drawing example. Maybe I'll talk to kinetics about that just to be sure. I'd have no problem going with mdf if there is an issue with the drywall, as long as it weighs close to the same.

It's been awhile. How's everyone doing? Progress is slow but I'm back at it again. I just have one quick question about something. I've got an existing block wall that is rendered on the outside with 3 inch clay brick. However, the interior side of the wall is the exposed 8x8x16 blocks and they aren't all totally flush with eachother. I've already taken the time to repair all the mortar joints between each block but I still want to be sure I have an airtite surface. My question is am I better off leaving the wall as is making sure that all small holes and joints are filled in and then add a coat or two of paint.... or would adding a layer of 5/8" drywall directly to the surface be better even though there will be some small airgaps between the drywall and block wall because of the block walls uneven surface?

Personally, I think I'd render the entire wall. You might call it different things ("plaster", "stucco", etc.), but basically it means covering the entire surface with a thick layer of mortar, plaster or some other compound, using an exterior grade product that has water-proofing included in the mixture, or that you put in as an additive. Then when its dry, seal it and paint it. It might sound like overkill, but that way you are absolutely guaranteed that you have it sealed tight. I have a very similar situation with my build, except that is is a brick wall, and I'm planning to do exactly that. It will cost a bit more and take longer, but I think it's worth it to get it right. It also adds mass to the wall, which can only help. By the way, I noticed that earlier on this thread (last year) you said you were planning to float your floor: are you still planning to do that, and if so have you read this thread? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8173 - Stuart -

So I'm better off not using drywall then right? Do you have any pictures of your project in reguards to your brick wall that you rendered, or are planning on rendering? Also, yes, I'm still planning on floating my floor. I actually sorted thru all the issues and pre planned right when that floating floor thread was written. Sharward actually helped me out with it. Floating is my best option only because I took the time to make sure weight and spring rate were worked out correctly. Not floating in my case would mean poor isolation. Thanks for looking out though.