Small room for tracking and mixing [G-Sun, no]

I'm starting over with my plans. (Design1, Design2, design3 stranded..) It's for a small tracking and mixing room. Overall update: See post viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18383&start=15#p129881 I know the volume is small/not ideal, but else, I hope this could work out to be a good room for me to work in :) Tracking: Mostly me alone, e.g. guitar, vocal, maybe a drumset. 2-3persons doing voicover, small band. Mixing and mastering: As good as it can get, within space and tight budget. The space available is: Lenght: 3037mm (9.96feet) Edit: 3007 (adjusted for 2 leafs of 15mm gypsum) Width: 2767mm (9,08feet) Edit: 2737mm (2leafs of inner gypsum) Height: 2513mm (8,24feet), not adjusted for inner-roof Edit height adjusted: 2375mm (7,8feet) That is adjusted for - outer wall: 98mm studs, 15mm gypsum - airspace 10mm - innerwall: 15mm gypsum (and the studs goes on the inside with insulation) Sound isolation goals are 50-60db. Site details: This is currently a double garage Floor: Concrete with radiant floor heating Walls: 1 (west) like this download/file.php?id=46292 1 (south) I presume is 98mm studs with 22mm wood panel (to bathroom) These walls will be refitted with 15mm gypsum (like described here.) I have 2 doors available: - 1 soundproofed one, I belive it's 35db - 1 normal solid-core door Door is planned east (down on the drawing) Main construction concerns: - Min 3mm leveling concrete for the floor - Radiant heating is for the whole garage. Could turn out impractical. Maybe I should go for a separate solution for my studio? - Do I need a separate power-circuit for my studio? - Do I need 2 leafs of gypsum for my inner walls? - How should I construct my roof to maximize acoustic, and make it doable construction-wise? - Room-proportions. Should I make adjustments here? Main ideas: - Basstraps in most corners - Soffitmounted monitors 90degree in corners - Pc-box on the outside? This is first sketch, so I'm prepared to make adjustments (minor and major), provide detailed info/images and work out detailed plans.

To make the room-length available to me, I have to deconstruct and move a garage door opener motor with rails. Hopefully I'll manage to maintain the door functionality, as we like the space in front of the studio for bicycles and stuff.

So, it's important for me to have a basic plan regarding inner-wall-roof -to be able to calculate room best room ratios. Is something like this my best shot? I want to maximize room-volume/acoustics, yet making the construction doable for me. I have some 30mm high density rock-wool stored that I thought I could use here. Then maybe adding basstraps in all ceiling-corners (not shown in the drawing)? Grey is gypsum. This design gives me 138mm lower room height (airspace 10mm included)

Something like this for the floor: The old part is mostly guesswork. I know it's radiant heating in there, but the depth and insulation is guessing. Depron is a recommended underlay for radiant heating, comes in 3 and 6mm I believe. One big question is: Can I now use both old and new radiant heating? This will give 15mm height.

Monitors Ideally I should have a good pair of reference-monitors so I could fine-tune my build physically and acoustically. But, what I have is a pair of budget ones krk Rookit5. One solution is to buy new ones, before I nail the design, another one to leave room for upgrade. I've been looking at the Event 20/20 and Krk vxt6, but the best for me would be getting something second hand (so I could sell them again if they didn't work). Any way I have to look closer into what physical dimension I can accommodate.

I'm thinking of putting up one new el.circuit for the studio of 16A. Radiant heating: Max 1100W (typically on/off by thermostat) Additional heating: Typical 500W (typically on/off by thermostat) PC: 500W Light: 100W That leaves 1400W for outboard (mostly a few preamps) and stuff

Do you recommend tilting the monitors (what's prefered angle?), or should I better avoid it?

I'm a little unsure about what I should go for regarding monitors. The room is small, and a typical near-field-monitor like Equator D5 could be suitable. Known for good image, details, small size and appropriate SPL. But, is it a good idea to soffit-mount a near-field-monitors? Or is it better to fit a bigger monitor like Adam A7 or F7, to get a better reference for the bass? Edit: I'm now thinking Adam F7, with back-panel mounted on the wall

Or is it better to fit a bigger monitor like Adam A7

Personally, I'm a fan of Adam monitors, so I'd certainly take a close look at the A7X, or maybe even A8X, if your budget will stretch that far. - Stuart -

Thanks Stuart! Just as I was to declare this place dead, you pop in :) Geir

:) :thu: - Stuart -

Sitting dimensions: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18278#p127919 First design for desk: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18309

I'm thinking of using, For standard insulation: (walls, roof and basstraps) - Glava Proff 35 Plate (Fiberglas) 100x570x1200mm 6,84 m2/pk, 55Nkr/kvm (>>) or - ROCKWOOL FLEXI A-PLATE, 1200x575x98mm, 4,14 m2/pk or A-Plate Extra C600 100x570x1200mm (Mineralwool), 58,32Nkr/m2 (>>) High density mineralwool (For inner ceiling and basstraps/locker doors) - ROCKWOOL Lydplate, 1195x595x30mm (I have some ready for use) - ROCKWOOL Lydplate, 1195x595x50mm (>>) Price, space and performance are the important factors. Especially I'm wondering if I can use the 30-50mm rockwool for a basstrap/locker combo. And, if rockwool as standard insulation would be a benefit for me (edit: Seems like fiberglass is a tad preferable as standard insulation)

I can't really read those descriptions, as I don't speak the language, and Goolge translate isn't doing such a good job .... But from what I see, this stuff seems to be about right: - Glava Proff 35 Plate

if rockwool as standard insulation would be a benefit for me (edit: Seems like fiberglass is a tad preferable as standard insulation)

It doesn't really make much difference: both work just fine, so whichever is easier to find (and cheaper!) where you live, is fine. - Stuart -

Soundman2020 wrote:

I can't really read those descriptions, as I don't speak the language, and Goolge translate isn't doing such a good job .... But from what I see, this stuff seems to be about right: - Glava Proff 35 Plate

if rockwool as standard insulation would be a benefit for me (edit: Seems like fiberglass is a tad preferable as standard insulation)

It doesn't really make much difference: both work just fine, so whichever is easier to find (and cheaper!) where you live, is fine. - Stuart -

Thanks! Sorry about the norwegian pages :)

Some discussions: http://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-b ... sible.html http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass-tra ... -room.html

I've made a plan for my walls, like this: Discussion: http://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-b ... un-no.html

In general it looks fine, but I'm wondering what you mean by that "damp protection" going up just inside the outer layer of gypsum. Are you talking about a vapor barrier, or something else? - Stuart -

Soundman2020 wrote:

In general it looks fine, but I'm wondering what you mean by that "damp protection" going up just inside the outer layer of gypsum. Are you talking about a vapor barrier, or something else? - Stuart -

Quite observant :) Yes, vapor barrier, and it's on wrong place I see. I'm thinking on the inside, for the exterior wall that must be. Reason is that the exterior wall joins the wall of my garage, and I need vapor barrier for that as well as my studio. Thinking again, maybe I can drop tha vapor barrier for the part of the wall that's not part of the garage-structure. Mm.. yes that must be correct. One big question though: If the vapor barrier is placed in the mid of the cavity, will it affect the soundproofing?

One big question though: If the vapor barrier is placed in the mid of the cavity, will it affect the soundproofing?

It won't affect soundproofing, but the vapor barrier should NEVER go in the middle, as far as I know: it should be tight up against one of the leaves, inside the cavity. - Stuart -

Soundman2020 wrote:

One big question though: If the vapor barrier is placed in the mid of the cavity, will it affect the soundproofing?

It won't affect soundproofing, but the vapor barrier should NEVER go in the middle, as far as I know: it should be tight up against one of the leaves, inside the cavity. - Stuart -

Thanks! One of those small details that is good to know..

I'm rethinking the overall plan for the build. As it was, the garage-door with engine and rails, put a limit to the length. We're now thinking demounting it and closing the door-opening, leaving space for a hallway with storage. Approx. like this: Door for studio is down-right. Monitors up. This gives me inner dimensions like: L: 4207mm W: 2767mm H: 2408mm Where the length is tweak-able both ways. That gives a plot like this: Issue: Length and width collide on 123-124hz. How is important is that? And overall plan, looking better I believe?

I've teamed up with John Brandt and he will do the design and help me. Seems like a very good idea :)