Update time again :D
This week I'v managed to do a bit more to the build,
Inside in the tracking room, 1200 gauge DPM, styrene insulation to take away a bit of the cold concrete feel underfoot hopefully, steel re-enforcement along with fibres for strength and isolation fibre between the walls and 0.5m concrete slab strip around the walls,
I decided to do it this way so that all the edge details against the walls would be right and also to get some of the concrete done to make it easier for me as I am mixing it all then having to barrow from my driveway down to the bottom of the garden where the build is then load into tubs and carry down to the slab level on my own :)
Started to put the first layer of insulation up before the studs, free insulation from a site I was working on and I fished it out of the skip,
between the studs will be another 100mm of insulation as well, then 15mm stirling board, 2 sheets of 19mm plasterboard and a plaster skim finish,
Lookin' good !!!
Isn't it amazing just how much caulk and backer rod these projects take :shock:
I ended up buying caulking in the 'super size' contractor package. Won't even mention the pillaging of Home Depot & Lowes of their backing rod stock [various diameters] :roll::lol:
Yes defiantly , I think it was 3 boxes of the 900ml tubes I bought and a large box of 8mm backer rod, can't remember how many meters it was,
Iv actually only got 3 sides to do as my wall with my viewing window is block and stone and already built.
I have also been lucky enough to get 30 tubes of acoustic mastic from one of my sites that I had worked on that was an over order :D
Some progress at the weekend managed to finish the first layer of OSB board all caulked up and started the first layer of 19mm plasterboard which I got for free.:D
Just a quick question to Stuart/Brein or anyone really, when I get to the point of treating the walls will the 30mm thick Rockwool bats be beneficial, they are quite hard or dense as they are for putting under floors when building an isolated floor, but I have enough to probably use as wall treatment all over my walls if it is beneficial at all?
Depends on the density. It sounds like it might be too dense, or too rigid. Find out what the density is, or better still call the manufacturer and ask for the acoustic properties. See if they have a document about that.
- Stuart -
Thanks for the reply Stuart, my initial pm back to you explaining that it was around 60kg /m3 I now think may be wrong, so i will endeavour to find out from the company directly.
Carl
Lookin' good !
Don't be disappointed when people say 'Hey ... whatcha been doing down there ... it looks the same'. :roll:
That second layer will get all the Love when the finishing look is applied :mrgreen:
I guess for me, what I do like is that so much progress is being made.
What I have questions about is the OSB that is not staggered at the joints and the interior sheetrock that is also not staggered at the joints, and the screw pattern which can potentially create loose panels that may create flapping between panels.
I think you have covered your bases, but if you would care to explain these things, if you are able, it would be my interest to listen :)
Bad I know with the OSB and first layer of plasterboard, but for the 2nd layer of plasterboard I have been staggering the joints, In the pictures some of the lines you can see are not joints they are lines i'v marked on the board for screws but i can see that it does look like joints, there are however more joints with the plasterboard as it is 2400mm x 600mm x 19mm thick you cant get 2400mm x 1200mm in 19mm thick in the UK as far as I know.
I was thinking of filling and taping this room as I could probably do this myself to save money but I may get it plastered again like the other rooms as I am earning a bit better money at the moment and I think its a little more mass and a better job.
As for screw pattern I have purposely been putting the minimum amount of screw in the first layers so that when it comes to the final layer of plasterboard I am using 65mm drywall screws every 300mm, is this ok?
If it all looks a bit 'rough' please remember I work on sites as a ground worker not a carpenter and the 19mm plasterboard was originally going to be used on a site I was working on for an acoustic floor in a large building but in the end was not required, though no holes are through the board, same with the OSB and plywood, I rescued out of a skip along with all the rockwool/saint gobain insulation I'v used so far on the build to date so as to save as much money as possible.
I appreciate your comments Brein so if theres anything else you think I should be doing please let me know.
"As for screw pattern I have purposely been putting the minimum amount of screw in the first layers..."
That part you have correct :0
Good Luck and Merry Christmas.
Merry Christmas & a happy New Year to you to Brein :D
Now getting there with the 2nd layer, defiantly great having that first layer of OSB sheeting so I can screw where ever needed :D
Have been staggering the plasterboard joints and lapping over the previous layers joints.
One question Brein, do you feel it's a better job having a plaster skim over all the board, or no real benefit over just filling and taping all the joints?
One question Brein, do you feel it's a better job having a plaster skim over all the board, or no real benefit over just filling and taping all the joints?
It isn't going to gain you anything except for the visual appeal. You could do this type of application but there are some things you have to do first. One is that you should prime the entire wall area first to allow the mud to stick directly to the rock, other wise it will flake and peal/fall off over a short period of time.
I once did something like this in a small room with really really bad and multiple joints just to get a plastered look. It was a lot of labor but it looks great and you could say it adds some diffusion. I doubt it does, but it looks good and she is happy:)
You especially want to prime the places where the paper its ripped off the rock. What happens is this. Sheet rock mud is a water based material so if you skim the un papered areas the water bubbles the blistered paper and starts to deteriorate the rock.
So you have to use an oil based (not Latex) primer in order to not have the primer do the same type thing.
Stone sealed, & render painted, all plasterboard walls have been sealed and 3 coats of emulsion so next is treatments for the live room, I also plan on building a drum riser,