River Nile Build

Glenn to the rescue :yahoo: I just started to cut the slots for the back resonator,but i started to cut 4'',3'' AND 2'' :cry: Glenn, i need you ! You should have this post tied to your hip :yahoo: So your are saying i should go with the 5'' ,3'' ,and 2'' AS OPPOSED TO 4'' ,3'',2''? Are those slat measurements based on the dimentions i gave of my room? I went with the pegboard as a template and skip some hole to make them 3'' apart. I used ply and caulk to seal the back to make it a 4'' deep perferated panel. I decided to perforate the two middle pieces instead because that is where my rear ported speakers will be placed and make them perferated panel absorbers instead of porous absorbers as you said before. I am going to leave the two end panels blank for now as behind them is the Hangers and the rest of space lightly filled with Pink fluffy stuff. From my calculations its should be hitting 85-125hz a octive up and down. Each panel has 120 holes and the ply is 3/4'' thick.

The 2-3-4 and/or 2-3-5 will work since it is a broadband device. The wider slat may just drop the lower end very slightly. The perforations also work...

Thanks Glenn, I started putting up the slats accross the back corners ,i think i followed the sequence backwards. You said 2'' slat 1/8'' slot,3'' slat 1/4'' slot,5'' slat 3/8'' or 1/2'' slot. But because you i put up a 5'' slat first,i did 5'' slat,1/8'' slot,2'' slat,1/4''slot 3'' slat,3/8'' slot and so fotrh. Is that still ok? By the way i cranked up some sound in the room a couple nights ago and i went up in the kitchen to listen for leakage.all i felt was a little rumble,the island in the kitchen rumble a little an remember there is no doors or windows in yet. The room sound so tight and focus even without the clouds. what program can i use to test the response i'm getting? i am going to go to radio shack to get a SPL meter today. Also Glenn i saw in another thread were you said the rigid insulation should be 1-2'' behind slats. I have mine like 1/4'' to 3/8'' behind the slats and someplaces the rigid insulation even touches the back of the slat, Is that still ok? Or should i change that before moving forward? I have seen somwhere where it seem the 703 is firmly behind the slats and they said it was to prevent the slats from vibrating. Which way is correct? Thanks you guys Glenn,Brien,Soundman 2020 and of course Mr Sayers and Mr Gervais So far so gooooood :yahoo: More pics

Helloooooo ,anybody here? Anywhooo more pics

Nice workmanship! The insulation behind the slats (touching etc) will shift the response do to the impedence in the"throat" (slot) being higher which widens the Q and generally won't be a concern. Having the cloth snug to the back of the slats and leaving some air gap will generally keep any vibration down and improve the efficiency of the absorber with the cloth density providing a wide(er) Q. REW would be the tool of choice for measuring your room response.

Looks very nice!

Thank s Guys The Control room is almost finished. Glenn, I have a question as it relates to those slot boxes i see a lot here, whats the standard sizes of those ? I am talking about those in the live room of OASIS studio and also Container studio.

Even More Pics. I post pics because i know others could learn from them as i did from others :wink:

It lookin' GREAT !! and thanks for the pixs :)

RJHollins wrote:

It lookin' GREAT !! and thanks for the pixs :)

Thank you :D

you're looking for the slot resonator boxes John uses in many of his designs? I'm guessing they are around 5'-6' (1500mm - 1800mm) high, about 2'-3' (400mm - 900mm) wide with the panels on 12-15° angles and varying slot spacing and sizes. internally they are divided at the peak to the back of the box. the interior box itself is anywhere from 2-3" (50-75mm) to 12" (300mm) depending on space available and center frequency desired. I think there is a design in the recording manual and John may have even posted a component in the components.skp file.

Hi Glenn, Thats what i was looking for i saw a drawing with no dimentions in the recording manual but no sketch up file. So this is what i did, i looked at some of the rooms with then and i just kinda eyeball the measurements and made a guest based on some stuff in the rooms. So i made them 3' X 6' and the sides on the wall is 3''. Then i screwed them to the wall and caulk all around them air tight. Now you said they are supposed to be divided in the middle? i mus have missed that,now i am kinda stuck. And yeah so far it looks like what i did falls within those dimentions you gave,my box peak at 10'' and is 3'' ons sides. good guest :yahoo: Now what sizes should slats be? i want to do one with varying slat sizes and others with those big slats(i'm guesung 5'' or 6'' base on live room pic i posted. These are some pics of where i am now.

that looks good plus you can add some cloth covered absorption under them to the floor. the slots in the panels can be 1/4"-3/4" and varied the number and positions to break up the overall absorption. you could use John's 25-50-100mm slat or Newell's 3-4-5, or a numeric sequence (like a QRD 7/13 or PRS 11/13) to define the spacing. for the divider - just run a plywood piece from the wall to the peak. or leave it open in some to allow a larger single air cavity (such as on the units which the lower frequency target). the advantage of this approach is its relatively painless to adjust them later by adding or removing the cavity divider and changing the panels. as a general rule - target the frequency for broadband centered around the room mode - so if you have a 3rd order mode of 150hz on the midpoint of the room - make the mid-point unit center on 150hz and figure it to be +1/-0.5 octave (100hz-300hz).

Thanks Glenn. You basically build this room :D .i always wait for your post before i move forward. Thanks to everyone who chimed in :wink: Glenn, Let me through some numbers at you. My live room is 17'X13' and 7'-6'' hight,with a little nook thats about 4'X6'. The slat boxes as i have mentioned above is 3'X6' for two of them the third one is 4'x6'. Now on the two thats 3'X6' i was planning on going with 2'',3'' and 5'' slats with a router bit of Approx. 1/4''. I am just shooting in the dark at this point as to what freq those will affect but it seem close to every other ones on here. The plywood i am using is 3/4'' thick and the peak of the boxes are at 10'' with the sides being 3'' from wall. For the third box,what size do you think i should make the slats so i cover those modes you mention ? or what tool could i use to calculate these modes? Also how do i get a binary image like this to fit one of the panel?

that's a lot of holes to drill... i think just stick with the slats... if not, pm me for the BAD panel skp file. on the slats - consider using larger slots near the middle and smaller slots near the ends - maybe 1/4" on the ends and 5/8" in the middle, then another box with 3/8" for small and 3/4" for large, and another with 1/8" and 1/2". this will keep them from being all the same and some wider coverage. without actual REW measurements it's hard to say anything specific so the broadband is usually a good first start. worst case, you make a few new panels when you finally get the rooms setup and find you need some more fine tuning.

Glenn, Here we go. Tell me what you think.

I guess access to a CNC will always make it easier:)

xSpace wrote:

I guess access to a CNC will always make it easier:)

Well ,this guy lives 1hr 30min away from me,but i just had to do it :wink:

Hey Guys, How do i set the insulation in the slot box? Can i use pink fluffy stuff and fill the box or should i use 703 glued to the back of panels?

just Great ! ... really !! :P

Put cloth behind the panels, and fill the cavity with pink and a layer of 1" rigid in front of that, set it in about 1/2" or so from the cloth. Or just use the pink. Then again, I think those panels aren't really good so you should send them to me and I'll dispose of them... :mrgreen: :twisted:

gullfo wrote:

Then again, I think those panels aren't really good so you should send them to me and I'll dispose of them... :mrgreen: :twisted:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :mrgreen: So Glenn i think i am just gonna use the pink stuff as you said,cause i think now i finnaly blew the top off my budget. :cry: Would they be as effective without the 1'' rigid? Also i tried the pink stuff and i think it is gonna touch the back of the panel,should i just thin it down? More progress,

More Pics

Looking good! Just lightly fill the cavity and have it just touch the cloth should be ok. Worst case you need to go back and add the rigid later if you find it's not working as efficiently as desired.