River Nile Build

Just like all the other decoupling and caulking exercises - leave the gap, then use backing rod and and caulk to seal. This way you're avoiding any solid contact and still sealing it as desired. Worst case you periodically need to recaulk because small movement from the door opening and closing loosens it a bit (years).

Thanks Glenn I have another question: what should i do with the two back corner traps? should i cut triangular pieces of rockwool and fill the entire space since i am putting slots on front? Or should it be 703 accross the behind the slot and fabric leaving the air space behind?

put a layer of 703 behind the cloth behind the slats :) and fill the remaining space (lightly) with pink (or other lightweight) insulation.

Glenn I have some 1'' reclaimed rockwool can i use that to fill the rest of the space? or is it too dense for that purpose? Also i was thinking of putting plywood along the top of the front wall and perforate the two side peices and leave the middle solid. look at pics below

you can use the rigid insulation if you have it but it may be cheaper to use the pink stuff for filling larger air spaces. if you're not soffit mounting, you can perforate the faces shown.

gullfo wrote:

if you're not soffit mounting, you can perforate the faces shown.

So do i have to Seal(air tight) the space behind the Perforated ply ? Because i was going to have some hangers or fill behind there with insulation.And remember it's open all the the way accross and down on the bottom where i made those openings for the sound to have acces to the hangers. I guest in my case it would not be acting as a tuned broadband Perforated panel absorber?It would just be more so that the back of my speaker has somewhat of a absorbtive panel behind them right? And also providing access to the hangers/insulation. Thanks for the responses Guys.

the perforation could be used as a Helmholtz resonator or simply as some additional absorption by leaving it open.

gullfo wrote:

the perforation could be used as a Helmholtz resonator or simply as some additional absorption by leaving it open.

Thanks Glenn I was hoping that would be your response since i did not want the extra work to seal off that space behind the perforated ply :yahoo: One more thing though,i was going to use a piece of pegboard as the template for me to drill the holes into the 3/4'' ply. Is that cool? Or should the holes and distance be a little bigger and farther apart? Also is there a way to change the title of this thread to River Nile Studio Build? I think fireblocking is :?:

Here is what i have been up to these past few days. Critiques wellcome :)

you could use the peg board as a guide but skip holes so they are at least 3" apart. put tape over the holes you won't use. you could also get creative and create a design with the holes so it's not solely an even pattern as it's providing some porous membrane absorption. shoot for around 2% perforation.

Thanks Glenn I will post the measurements of the perferated panels and mybe you guys could give me ideas how many holes and hor far apart they should be. In the meantime here are some more pics. The Hangers are not exactly Cute but i hope they work :lol:

you will be lining the hanger cavity with insulation? you might be able to add a couple more as well.

Thanks a lot Glenn I totally was gonna skip that step of lining the back there. You guys dont miss a thing! thats why i love this forum so much,they let you have it good or bad :lol: Once again thanks for pointing that out Glenn.

More Pics I lined the center with pink fluffy stuff before i put in the 2.5pcf rockwool I now realixed that the other rockwool i had is more dense than this last set i baught,is it still ok for filling the back corners? Glenn, You pointed out that i could use the holes in the perferated panels as a design and i should go for 2% perferation. So my question is 1) the panel size is 57''(H) by 45'' Wide if i want to use the hole to spell out : RIVER NILE PRODUCTION On both sides what should the hole sizes be ? aprox? I want it in the middle of both panels Thanks

maybe shoot for 3/16" holes? maybe draft it out on paper? or perhaps a scroll cut instead of holes? a dremel/router with an 1/8" bit?

Thanks Glen. Whats a scroll cut? is it a long line? I forget to tell you that i am building the traps according to your drawings you posted in this thread so if my room dont sound good it gonna be all your fault :lol: Hey i might just keep it simple,what do you think of these panels? http://www.trikustik.at/produkte/wirkun ... ro-m1.html Which one is better suited for my room?

hello guys i am now getting ready to cut out the salts board but i dont understand somethin. I am trying to use John's diagram but when i convert 100mm,50mm and 25mm to inches its giving me some wierd numbers. like 100mm=3.937 inches. there was a diagram i found on here that was in inches does anyone know where to find it? Should i just round the numbers up to the nearest whole number? i am tryin to get this look thats on this side wall http://www.johnlsayers.com/Pages/Shanghai_Twang.htm

when i convert 100mm,50mm and 25mm to inches its giving me some wierd numbers. like 100mm=3.937 inches.

Yes, that's correct. 100 mm is 10 cm which is roughly 4". Why do you think that is weird? - Stuart -

So stu, You still didn't answer my question,should i just round it up to the whole number? Should i use 2'' ,3'' ,4'' slats. is that what it work out to? And in the diagram it said slots vary from x to y mm ,i need help here. I am cutting the lenght for the wood but i need to get the exact sizes before i start stripping these out of the 1X6'S THANKS

The difference between 3.937 inches and 4 inches is so small you cannot readily see it and it will not effect a layout until after about 31 inches...at 48 inches you will lose almost 3/4's of an inch. Round up, since you are trying to mix two different measuring standards. The one you are attempting to use is more exacting, but if you don't get it...then it's just another learning curve :) And it would have to be implemented from the start and used religiously...not a mixing of the two.

Like Brien said! :) Also, John's slot wall design is for a broadband device: not tuned to exact specific frequencies, and just covering the low end in general, so precision dimensions aren't really that big of an issue, I reckon. Especially if you are mounting the slats over a varying depth cavity (deeper at one end of the slat than at the other end). I'd just round to the closest Imperial equivalent, and not worry about it to much. That 1/16th of an inch difference would only be important if you were aiming at a specific problematic frequency, and needed to hit it precisely with a high Q device, for whatever reason. But for a broadband low Q device, it doesn't really make much difference. - Stuart -

So 2'' 3'' and 4'' slats is fine then? what about the varying slot spaces?what should those be? thanks

More pics

xSpace wrote:

The one you are attempting to use is more exacting, but if you don't get it...then it's just another learning curve :) And it would have to be implemented from the start and used religiously...not a mixing of the two.

?? I didn't get that Brien

make sure the slat resonator cavities are sealed air pockets. then your 2-3-5" slats can be spaced with 1/8, 3/8, 5/8" slots - try: slat slot 1.5" 1/8" 2.5" 3/8" 5.0" 5/8"