Soffit construction and insulation update!
Pics. 1-6
Soffits filled with loose insulation.
Upper soffit vent made of chicken wire to secure that insulation won't block the air circulation.
Pic. 7
Soffit baffle in place.
Pic. 8
Insulation in.
Pic. 9
Back wall insulation.
In the left corner is superchunk bass absorber.
Angled absorber in the front isn't completely filled with insulation.
Pics. 10-11
Left and right side resonators filled with insulation.
The room is pretty dead now. Surprise :idea: :mrgreen:
I was planning to cover the ceiling with thin plastic layer to return high end in the room,
and finally cover the ceiling with cloth. Maybe back wall bass absorbers the same.
-janne
Farmhouse home studio construction
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 14333.
Looking good! :)
- Stuart -
Update!
Pic. 1
Soffit front baffle made of 15mm parquet. It's chestnut or something like that, don't actually know.
I got few slices from my friend and he didn't know what it was. Don't matter, looks cool :D
Pic. 2
Removable pieces of the front baffle.
Now I can easily pull the speaker out if I need to make rear panel adjustments.
Pic. 3
Ceiling cloth. I stapled thin 0,22mm plastic foil under the cloth to keep a little HF energy in the room.
Pic. 4-5
Resonator wall cloth stapled under the slats.
Pic. 6
Slats. Pattern is (from up to down)
Slat 70mm
Gap 5mm
Slat 30mm
Gap 5mm
Slat 70mm
Gap 2,5mm
Slat 120mm
Gap 10mm
Slat 30mm
Gap 10mm
Slat 120mm
Gap 2,5mm
and so on...
Pic. 7
Slats stained.
Pic. 8
Slats in place :D
Next: right slat wall finishing, Cloth stapling to the rest of the walls.
-janne
Great job Janne !
I'm watching your build closely…and learning :-)
Thanks for sharing your progress.
SImo
This is a truly inspirational build :D
Thanks a lot Simo :D I've followed your build also. And learning too.. :D Very neat job so far! Very cool layout. I'm waiting your next update :wink:Great job Janne ! I'm watching your build closely…and learning :-) Thanks for sharing your progress. SImo
Thanks Roguejackal! It's always nice to read positive comments :mrgreen: -janneThis is a truly inspirational build :D
New years update! :D
Nothing much done, really.. Been quite busy :blah:
Pics 1-2.
Both sidewall resonators done. stained and varnished twice at half mat laquer.
Pic 3.
Back wall corner absorber done! Slats added to keep more HF energy in the room.
Same slat pattern goes also the other back wall absorber.
Happy New Year to everyone!!!! :mrgreen:
-janne
Update!
Pic 1.
Both superchunk absorbers at the back wall finished with 70mm slats. Gaps are 30mm!
Pic 2.
Center slat resonator done!
I'm not fired speakers yet, but the room sounds pretty good when speaking, yelling, "singing".
My favourite records sounds also good and clear when listened from the old cd player.
I bought Behringer's measurement mic (ECM8000) and downloaded RoomEQWizard to do some
measurements next weekend if I only learn that software easily :D
Flooring still needs to be done and to do some finishing, moldings, battens, etc..
Maybe a cloud over the mixing position...
OMG! my control room is nearly finished :D
-janne
Again fantastic look, really like your build and ideas.
Thanks Roguejackal! :D I've been stolen pretty much all my ideas I've used. :mrgreen:Again fantastic look, really like your build and ideas.
I've connected the speakers finally and listened all kinds of music from R&B to Motörhead :D
I must say that I was a bit of surprised about the result. I build this thing WTF?? :shock:
Frequency responce is a bit bass heavy to my ears but the stereo image is very accurate and solid.
I can feel that whole front wall is one giant speaker!
Then I did the first measurements..
I used behringer ECM8000 measurement mic and REW software and couple of foster's beer cans.
First pic shows my measurement setup.
Second pic shows my first room frequency response measurement ever.
Both speakers at the same time.
The mic was a bit of too front. About a top of where my mixer is going to be.
I was bit of surprised about that huge dip about 115-120 Hz.
It might be a heavy room mode??
Also there is a slightly boost in 55-60 Hz. That might explain that bass heaviness??
That's only my guessing :D
Third pic shows the room modes of my room. Maybe that explains someone to something :D
Then I pulled the mic a bit back, about 30cm.
Now It's about where my head is going to be when I'm mixing.
First curve is only the left speaker on.
Then only the right speaker.
The last one is both speakers at the same time.
There are still light boost on 60 Hz and a dip on 115-120 Hz.
Maybe cloud might be a solution to my "problem" :?:
Don't know..
Maybe I'll build that cloud therefore it looks cool :mrgreen:
I would be appreciative your experts (Stuart, Glenn, Brien, Brihar) opinion about all of this :D
Thanks!
-Janne
Hmmmm.... Just wondering about that bass boost... Did you set the bass rolloff correctly on your speakers? Are those Adam A7x? Looks like it. If so, then there's a control on the rear panel for doing that, when you flush-mount your speakers. To me, if you ignore the "120 dip" and imagine that the curve was flatter there, then it looks like you have a roughly 6dB bass rise starting up to around 300 Hz, which is exactly the frequency that the shelf control starts from on the A7x, and pretty much what I'd expect if you forgot to adjust it. That might be part of the problem. Maybe pull the speakers out, adjust the shelf to -6 dB, and try again.
That leaves the "120 dip": According to Bob Golds, you have three modes in close proximity there:
118.5 hz 2.91 : 1.45 : 0.73 (2,1,0 Tangential)
123.0 hz 2.80 : 1.40 : 0.70 (0,2,0 Axial)
123.3 hz 2.79 : 1.40 : 0.70 (2,0,1 Tangential)
... I'm thinking that maybe it's one of those, perhaps the 0.2.0 axial (width) mode. What's on your side walls, further back where the slot walls end, behind the cloth?
Also, I'm wondering about those slot walls: Did you seal them airtight? I mean the boxes behind the slats themselves: are they sealed tight to the walls, floor and ceiling? They won't work as Helmholtz resonators if you don't seal the air cavity.
Also, did you put lots of insulation in the gap behind the slats? What about the dimensions of the slats, gaps between them, and depth of the air cavity? Is there any chance you migh have inadvertently tuned several of them to the same frequency?
In one of your original models, you had included a pair of gobos (I think you called them "moveable absorbers" or some such). Have you built those yet? If so, they might help you determine if this really is a width-related issue.
Just my US$ 0.02 musings for now, thinking out loud...
- Stuart -
Thanks a lot Stuart :D
Yeah, Adam A7X. No I didn't do any adjustments yet. I left all the adjustments in the middle for the first test. I'll do that -6 dB adjustment and run that test again.Hmmmm.... Just wondering about that bass boost... Did you set the bass rolloff correctly on your speakers? Are those Adam A7x? Looks like it. If so, then there's a control on the rear panel for doing that, when you flush-mount your speakers. To me, if you ignore the "120 dip" and imagine that the curve was flatter there, then it looks like you have a roughly 6dB bass rise starting up to around 300 Hz, which is exactly the frequency that the shelf control starts from on the A7x, and pretty much what I'd expect if you forgot to adjust it. That might be part of the problem. Maybe pull the speakers out, adjust the shelf to -6 dB, and try again.
There is 70mm at rockwool insulation behind the cloth.That leaves the "120 dip": According to Bob Golds, you have three modes in close proximity there: 118.5 hz 2.91 : 1.45 : 0.73 (2,1,0 Tangential) 123.0 hz 2.80 : 1.40 : 0.70 (0,2,0 Axial) 123.3 hz 2.79 : 1.40 : 0.70 (2,0,1 Tangential) ... I'm thinking that maybe it's one of those, perhaps the 0.2.0 axial (width) mode. What's on your side walls, further back where the slot walls end, behind the cloth?
Yeah, everything is sealed, every seam. They are seal proof :DAlso, I'm wondering about those slot walls: Did you seal them airtight? I mean the boxes behind the slats themselves: are they sealed tight to the walls, floor and ceiling? They won't work as Helmholtz resonators if you don't seal the air cavity.
Gap is filled with isulation but the insulation still don't touch the slats. Air cavity is vary from 350mm to 70mm because of it's angled. Slat and Slot pattern is following: Slat 70mm, Gap 5mm, Slat 30mm, Gap 5mm, Slat 70mm, Gap 2,5mm, Slat 120mm, Gap 10mm, Slat 30mm, Gap 10mm, Slat 120mm, Gap 2,5mm, and so on..Also, did you put lots of insulation in the gap behind the slats? What about the dimensions of the slats, gaps between them, and depth of the air cavity? Is there any chance you migh have inadvertently tuned several of them to the same frequency?
Stuart, you have a very good memory :D I've fully forgotten those gobos... Maybe I could build a pair of temporary gobos before the second test. Putting them both side of the mixing place I assume? I'll do the following changes before the second test: Adjusting the shelf to -6dB. Making a pair of temporary gobos and putting them both side of the mixing place. Let's see what happens... Anyway, everything is far far far far more better than it used to be. But why not make it even better :D Thanks again Stuart, -JanneIn one of your original models, you had included a pair of gobos (I think you called them "moveable absorbers" or some such). Have you built those yet? If so, they might help you determine if this really is a width-related issue.
New measurements!
I adjusted -6dB bass roll off at the Adam's rear panel.
Music sounds much better after this adjustment. Not so bass heavy as I was earlier mentioned.
After new measurements I added pair off hanging rockwool panels at both side of the mixing position.
Mic is exactly the same position as earlier measurement. I marked mic stands place at the floor with tape and marker pen.
First graph is only the left speaker.
Second graph is only the right speaker.
That 120Hz valley is 10dB deeper when running only right speaker??
Really don't know where that comes from...
Finally both speakers running.
No significant improvement about that 120Hz problem with those extra absorbtion panels..
Maybe next I could build cloud over the mixing position and do some new measurement after that.
-Janne
Is that so uncommon? In a repeating pattern, designed to address a few key frequencies, this would be normal would it not?Is there any chance you migh have inadvertently tuned several of them to the same frequency?
Maybe I could build a membrane trap tuned on 120Hz?
The problem is, where to place it or them...
One option would be to place it at both sides of the side walls where the resonators ends?
Inside the wall cavity maybe...
I'll firstly build a big cloud over the mixing position and do some new measurement after that.
I have a question concerning about the cloud construction:
Should I leave it open at the top or should I close it with a layer of plywood :?:
Thanks,
-Janne
Damn it's freezing here in Finland :-? This morning thermometer showed -20 degrees celcius....
Cold airmasses from Siperia came here to freeze everything. I'm glad that at least our homes are warm :D
Cold weather still didn't prevent my cloud construction project...
Here comes the pics:
I used 100mm rockwool insulation and plastic sheet on both sides.
I left it open at top. Frame is made of left over materials 2x3" lumber and plywood.
I angled it a bit so it's lower at the front.
New room response measurements soon...
That place is starting to look reeeeealy nice! Can't wait to see it finished.
- Stuart -
Ya know, duct tape is the tape of choice for rednecks where I live...and to see it on the cloud, man...it almost brings a tear of joy to my eye!!!!;)
Yea, that place is looking smokin' hot..
Thanks guys! I appreciate your comments! :D
-janne
I'm sure you know ... but ... GORILLA makes a duct tape that is FANTASTIC ! ... just NOT sure you can ever peel it back off. [which may bring tears to the eyes]. :DYa know, duct tape is the tape of choice for rednecks where I live...and to see it on the cloud, man...it almost brings a tear of joy to my eye!!!!;) Yea, that place is looking smokin' hot..
Measurements as I promised.
First two pics:
Left speaker measurements before and after cloud.
It got slightly better on 120 Hz.
Right speaker measurements before and after cloud.
No significant imoprovement on 120 Hz dip.. Otherwise a little better.
Left speaker waterfall plot after the cloud.
Right speaker waterfall plot after the cloud.
RT60 plots. Left and right speaker.
Both doors at the back are still untreated. Might cause some reflections.
Still wondering what causes that 110-120Hz dip at the right speaker..
Maybe it's just a curse of the way too small control room :D
-janne
Here's also whole spectrum plots on both speakers.
Octave smoothing is 1/3.
-Janne
Hi Janne,
If i compare your measurements I noticed something.
Your left speaker measurement is since begin around 7db better than the right speaker drop at 110hz. In vertical view your room is very symmetric and the horizontal view has one door at the rearwall and one angled part like a small basstrap.
How deep is this angled part and what rockwool did you use in it?
Before you added the cloude there was a 7db difference and i beliefe this angled rockwoolpart at the rearwall is the reason for it.
To get most absorbtion you need to do a calculation, wavelengh/4 = thickness of purous absorber 77cm. Depending on what type of rockwool you used this can be effectively >15db with rockwool 40-50kg.
Comparing your harddoor and there is only 5-10cm insulation between the studs (expected from the pics) that i belief is a reflecting part for 110hz to the right rearwallside were you have insulstion with a wall space of around 30cm that is better but not thick and effective anough for 110hz.. This could be the 7db difference between both speakers. 30cm insulation vs 5cm in this area.
From the pics i see you have build in nice corner traps on the frontcorners but there maybe should be much more deeper space for porouse material in the middle and outer middle part too. This is the opposide of your door that might reflect and theres only the end of the cornertrap that is maybe 5-10cm rockwool on both sides. Maybe this two front and rear areas could be the reason for the standing wave.
Since you added the big cloude everything got some db better. But the mode was shiftet a little up cause of the additional material that makes the room smaller. Since the cloude is angled and deep the front part of the cloude seems to improve the horizontal mode too.
This assumption that the room lengh is the cause is supported by the calculstion of the second room mode freq=343 / roomlengh. On your first site you wrote the room is 3,4m long but you added drywall and additional mass, so it would be interesting what the actual lengh is from the drywall to door. I assume 3m so this seems to be a second room mode 343/3=114hz. The Room width was 2,8 without drywall? So lets say 2,5m would be 135hz that does not fit to your freq problem. Also the heigh can not produce the mode of around 110hz if the measures are correct.
You can do a additional simple test. Put a large thick woodpanel in front of the angled rearwall part faced to the rearwall. The 110hz on the left speaker shouldnmove a bit up and should get more worse. Or put two rockwool bags stacked before the angled part and measure again to see whats happening.
If you open the door and put in the doorway two rockwool bags from floor to ceiling. What happens to the right speaker?
If it is the case you recognize differences you might have the same "probl" like me :? What i would do and i will test it myself,
Sawing two big holes into the reflecting wall. Near as big as a door. Now you have the option to build in big boxes with a panelabsorber or simply use as much space as much you have for the box and put in rockwool. It is only worth if you can get the deph >40cm for absorbing min 10db of 110hz and if you enlarge the room this way the mode might change a little bit to 105hz. If you have only a wood construction house you could build some nice looking boxes from the inside to the outside of the house. Looking similar like a tool shed or an electric tower. Stuffing it with low dense rockwool.
In my case everything on the rightspeaker measurement was better when the door was on the right side. It was a very light and thin door that i think worked like a panel absorber and let the mode freq pass. This was the idea integrating a new doorlike light and vibrating material in the rearwall but as a real panelabsorber, maybe 4mm plywood. I can paint it on the floorside and can make it look really nice AND do not have to deconstruct anything in the inside as i can do the whole box from the outside of the room.
I will upload some skizzes today in my thread to hopefully get more opinions on it.
Stay tuned to fix it.
Regards
Aaron :)
Thanks Aaron!
It's nice to get other aspects to the problem :D
I'm suspecting the same thing as you are. Angled absorber is only 250mm deep at the middle. It's stuffed allmost full with rockwool. (density is about 40-50kg/m3). Right corner I've super chunk bass trap as you noticed. But in the left corner (where the right speaker points at) I've got nothing as the door have to be there... And that corner might be my problem. Front corners are stuffed full with insulation (upper boxes) and bottom ones I've hangers. In the middle part is 100mm rockwool. I'm not going to do any major changes in the room as I'm nearly finished :D but I'm definitely doing the tests that you suggested. I should have measured the room more earlier... :oops: I'm waiting your skizzes and your next update! Good luck with that :D And thanks again! -JanneHow deep is this angled part and what rockwool did you use in it? Before you added the cloude there was a 7db difference and i beliefe this angled rockwoolpart at the rearwall is the reason for it.