Farmhouse home studio construction

all that nice caulk all covered... :cry: :mrgreen:

gullfo wrote:

all that nice caulk all covered... :cry: :mrgreen:

Yeah! what a shame :D

Framing update! I started inner framing at this weekend. Pic 1. I started it with the short back wall. Inner wall frame won't touch the outer frame. Only wool at the ceiling loosely touches at inner top plate. At the front you can see first piece of inside-out wall frame which goes on left side. Pic 2. Drilled 3 holes for cable conduits. 1 hole for 40mm conduit and 2 holes for 30mm conduits. Pic 3. First piece of three part inside-out wall standing. Pic 4. Cable conduits won't touch the wall frame. I drilled those holes 10 mm bigger than the conduits and stuffed backer rod around them and finally caulked to air tight. Angle iron holds temporarily in place that wall part. More to come soon :D -janne

Framing update again :D In my last post I said that more to come soon.. So it's been one and a half months since my last post... Been two weeks vacation in Mexico 8) and then spending all my time at working really hard to pay the visa bill :cen: :D Pics. 1-2 Second part of an inside-out wall under construction. I used only one layer of 15mm drywall at the back. I could beef up another layer at the stud cavities if needed. Pics. 3-6 Inside-out wall part lifted up and installed in place. Pics. 7-10 Last part of inside-out wall installed in place. I had to drill couple of holes through the drywall because of electric cables, but I used lots of caulk to minimize air leakages :D I hope I could finish opposite wall at this weekend. That's going to be regular wall (drywall facing inside). I must install a vapour barrier in this wall because behind that wall is sometimes -20 degrees celcius :D In Finland and other cold climates we must use vapour barrier at inside face of outside walls. -janne

how are you securing the tops and bottoms of the walls?

bottom of the walls are fastened to the concrete floor with bolt like this. (Don't know the term in english) anchor bolt or something like that. Don't know what do you mean to secure tops of the walls? I'm going to build inner ceiling also (inside-out). Ceiling elements attached to the walls with long screws. I know construction like that might move a bit side to side especially at the middle of longer walls. I was thinking to use sway braces to prevent that. -janne

Small update. Inner walls allmost done. Running out of wood so I must finish inner doorway later. My little helper inspecting the results :D Clarification to Glenns question how I'm going to secure bottoms of the walls. As I said in my last post that I'm going to attach walls to the concrete floor with bolts. As you can see I used two bottom plates. I bolted first 2x4" to the concrete floor, then I carved nut places to the upper 2x4" and made the rest of the wall. finally nailing the wall to the bottom 2x4". I hope that I'll have a time to start making inside-out ceiling elements next weekend. Must buy more wood first :D -janne

Last weekend's progress: Inner ceiling almost done! I had some help from my father and we ended up doing whole ceiling on saturday. I rented sheet lift which was nice helper also. Pics 1-3. Inner ceiling consists of 4 elements like above. Elements are made of 2x5" wood studs. Top of that is one layer of 15mm drywall. Ceiling elements attached to the walls by screws. Pic 4. First element lifted in place. We had a little problem with AC inlet duct :shock:. As you can see the duct came just right in the middle of the stud. Pics 5-7. Second element under way. Pics 8-9. Third element lifted in place. Pic 10. Fourth and the last element was trickier to make because of that angled wall and AC duct. We made a little mistake here.. (sorry, I made a mistake :oops: ) I nailed the stud 25mm wrong place so we didn't have any wood where to screw that angled drywall piece. You can see how we fixed that problem :D. When you are tired you'll make mistakes very easy :idea: :D Pic 11. All four elements attached in place and secured with lots of screws. Diameter of screws I used was 8mm and lenght was 90mm. Luckily we had a good cordless drill :D Still my hands were shaking on sunday. -janne

Very nice neat work!

This one page alone should be stickied to address every time someone asks how to raise an insideout ceiling panel. With out four strong burly men and a few tall children...this is what you do!!!

Thanks a lot for your nice comments Glenn and Brien! :D My wife made nice cathouse from the waste materials I was going to throw away. There is styrofoam floor covered with soft blanket so it's warm at winter :D Our both cats like it a lot, especially her who likes to be in photos. -janne

My lightning plan. I was thinking 9 pieces of 3,5W led spotlights installed in 3 rows. Maybe that should be sufficent. Those white pipes shows my AC outlets. I'm going to instal couple of KRK RP6 active monitors in my liveroom. That's the great idea I stole from Greg's thread (again) :D viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11485&start=240 That's the option if an artist wants to hear his/her performance with real speakers and don't want to walk other side of the house where my control room is going to be. -janne

update! Pic 1. Inner door frame finished. Pics 2-4. AC ducts sealed. I stuffed backer rod carefully around the duct and then burst lots of caulk over it. Then I nailed frames around the ducts where I can fasten air vents. Pic 5. I spend 400 euros to different electric equipments. Floor heating mat, led spot lights, fuses, fusebox, cables, wall sockets etc... Pic 6. Fusebox with fuses. Pic 7-8. 3 pcs. of wall sockets installed. -janne

very nice work! i did notice a couple of the wires weren't perfectly straight though... :wink: :twisted:

Thanks Glenn! I'll fix those wires instantly :lol: More pics!! Pics 9-11. Vapour barrier on. Pics 12-13. Sheetrock installed to the walls and ceiling on small hallway. Pic 14. I left a 10mm gap between edge of the sheetrock and inner leaf wall, so there are no hard connection between inner and outer leaf. Pic 15. Joint boxes, switch to the out light and portable trimmer to AC installed. Next mission is to design inner door and build it. I'll show you my plan soon. That's going to be heavy piece of a door :D -janne

It's been over two months since my last post :? Not much studio construction over that time.. Me and my wife were two week vacation in Mexico and 12 days in Scotland :D . Last winter I promised to my wife that I build a greenhouse for her right after all the snow goes away.. ..so I had to build it... Pic 1. shows you the proof :D Well there happened something in my studio also :twisted: Pics. 2-5. I've been working on my inner isolation door. Firstly I made a sketchup model of it (I could post it here if someone likes to see it). I used old bathroom door which I manage to get free of charge from my neighbour. It was not solid core door so I had to "beef it up". I fillet it up with 2 layers of 15mm drywall and a layer of 12,5mm drywall. It got pretty heavy. My cat was ispecting the results :D I covered it up with a layer of plywood. Pic. 6. Door frame is made from 45x125mm pine. I used same lumber in my ceiling panels. I used four quality adjustable hinges. I can move the door up or down if needed. Pics. 7-10. Heavygoddamn door lifted, installed and adjusted in place :twisted: Pic. 11-12. I found that there are smaller gabs on hinge side of the jamb than the other side, so I ended up using O-profile EPDM rubber seals on both jambs. It can be used in 1-7mm gaps. I installed four cupboard style magnets (4kg pull load each) two up on the frame and two down. I bought also a door closer which is designed for 60kg doors. I'm gonna install it in place next weekend. I hope that it closes the door perfectly against the seals and the magnets do their tricks to finish it perfectly airtight.. -janne

nice work on the bank vault seals! really nice work on the greenhouse!

Thanks Glenn! :D Here comes the next update: Pics. 1-5 I installed a door closer, but it didn't close the door completely against the seals. And those cupboard magnets weren't strong enough to keep the door close properly. I added two stronger neo dynamic magnets 15 kg pull load each. One upper corner in the door frame and the other bottom corner. So I have now 4 magnets (two 4kg pull loads and two 15kg pull loads) "sucking" that damn door close against the seals :D And it's working :yahoo: Pics. 6-7 I bought couple of remote controlled electrical feed boxes to feed the power to my liveroom monitors and ceiling spotlights. Pics. 8-9 Layer of 15mm Drywall installed. I'm using only one 15mm drywall layer on inner leafs. Pics. 10-12 Drywall layer mudded and caulked! Glenn, Brien or Stuart. I've started to desing my control room. Should I open new thread in desing forum or should I post my plans here in this thread? -janne

you can keep using this thread for the CR design and build out. that way you have a single reference thread.

I've finally made first desing of my future control room :D . First pic. LR-CR shows newer part of my house where my liveroom is also attached to. Older part of the house is not shown in here. Next to the liveroom are sauna and bathroom. Next to the sauna and bathroom are WC and small closet room (1,1m x 1,25m) which I could use as a machine room and a storage room. And finally my coming control room. Narrow room below my CR (If you look at the picture) is hallway. Older part of the house be located in next to the control room and hallway to the left. Entry to the older part is at hallway, but it's not shown in the picture. Second picture shows the main dimensions of the control room W=2,8m, L=3,4m, H=2,5m and also window and door positions. I know it's tight to fit proper control room in there but I have to live with that... I've seen here in this forum lots of nice designs almost the same sized rooms as mine. Here's just one example: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15547&start=30 That's Glenns nice desing. Third picture shows the first version of my control room design and it's room within a room construction. Isolation: Gaining a bit. It's pretty good so far without gaining any. But I was thought to add 1 layer of 15mm drywall strips between to outer leaf studs. I live in quiet neighbourhood so isolation is not my main concern. Construction: My original idea was to build walls and also the ceiling as inside-out, but maybe I'll build ceiling in normal way (drywall inside) and add a cloud over the mixing position. It's a bit easier to do in that way.. Window on the right can be covered with the wall. I don't have to see in my neighbours backyard while I'm mixing :) Soffit mounting: I've decided to soffit mount my speakers. I've now KRK RP6 speakers but maybe I'll update them. On the other hand I'm pretty get used to them nowadays.. External treatments: Entry door to my CR and door to storage room are extremely wrong place so I have to live with couple of movable absorbers on a back wall corners. Slot resonators on sidewalls. And finally few real photos of my room: Pic. 1. Front wall where the soffits are going to be. Pic. 2. Right hand wall where the window is. Pic. 3. Back wall where the storage room is. You can also see my analog mixer Studiomaster Trackmix 24. It's a bit big in my room but I love that mixers sound, so I'm gonna keep it in there. :D It's in wrong direction now pointing at the front wall, I'll have to rotate it :D Pic. 4. Left hand wall where the entry door is. Actually I don't have any specific questions right now, but I really do like to hear your comments, proposals about my design plan. Anything has not build yet so I can change my plans if needed. Thanks, -janne

Small of the smallest update.. Pic. 1 I replaced the old sheet siding of my house with the same wood paneling as on my liveroom, so it's uniform now with the rest of the house. Pic. 2 Entry to my liveroom. Pic. 3-4 I started the floor construction. Thermal insulation going in. I used Finnfoam closed cell foam insulation. http://www.finnfoam.com/ Rest of the construction will be: Top of thermal insulation 2 layers of plywood seams across, floor heating mat, and finally wood parquet. My plan was to build liveroom floor first, then carry all the stuff out of my future control room into the liveroom so I finally can manage to start constructing my control room :D Has anyone nothing to say about my control room plan design :?: :D -janne

I made a little mistake :oops: That Finnfoam closed cell foam thermal insulation which I bought was wrong choice. I cutted one package to right siced pieces and covered half the floor. Fortunately I tried to lay couple of drywalls over that and found that the result was way too hard sounding floor. Like a drum head... I returned unopeden Finnfoam packages to the store and bought 50mm rigid Paroc stone wool slabs with density 80-105kg/m3 http://192.49.230.181/CSharpSite/extran ... ublic=true Way much better now! :D I'll post floor construction pics soon.

That Finnfoam closed cell foam thermal insulation which I bought was wrong choice.

Yup! Not only that, but CLOSED CELL foam is not very useful in acoustics anyway! Glad you got rid of it: it would not have helped with your floor. (Fine for thermal insulation: not so fine for acoustic isolation).

50mm rigid Paroc stone wool slabs with density 80-105kg/m3

Much better, but probably a bit too dense. It will still work, but density of around 50 kg/m3 is better. - Stuart -

Thanks Stuart! :D Your comments and thoughts are always welcome!

Soundman2020 wrote:

Much better, but probably a bit too dense. It will still work, but density of around 50 kg/m3 is better. - Stuart -

Wouldn't that be too soft? I found this link: download/file.php?id=34159 It says that rock wool density should be 100 kg/m3. Anyway, I think that floor should work way much better with a bit too dense rockwool underneath than closed cell foam insulation batts :D -Janne

You were right Stuart. After searching a bit I found that drywall and insulation manufactures recommends to use ISOVER OL-K, Paroc SSB 2t mineral or stonewool slabs at floating floor constructions like mine. Both have density at 65kg/m3. What I bought, Paroc WAS 25t has density 80kg/m3. I hope that will be fine.. I already cutted in pieces those slabs :) -janne