What kind of doors are you guys using?

Is a double door enough with air between? See many custom made doors, so I am wondering what is better... See in some drawings that some builders using glass sliding doors, think to use a standard wooden door with glass inside, but then double...

Well, glass is a lot more expensive

If you have a few hours and the stomach for reading: The sound insulations of studio doors: Part 1: Door Blanks. G.D. Plumb, R. Clark and The sound insulations of studio doors: Part 2: Door seals. G.D. Plumb, R. Clark Neither article addresses your question specifically but more gets to the nuts and bolts of what door, seals and thresholds can do to improve any situation. Having this kind of information can only help you if you do make a back to back type door, or any studio related door area for that matter. Good luck.

xSpace wrote:

If you have a few hours and the stomach for reading: The sound insulations of studio doors: Part 1: Door Blanks. G.D. Plumb, R. Clark and The sound insulations of studio doors: Part 2: Door seals. G.D. Plumb, R. Clark :blah:

Wow that is very interesting information :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: thx :mrgreen:

jbassino wrote:

Well, glass is a lot more expensive

Problem is that I need glass, have to see or someone is outside the CR waiting to come in... we will have an electronic lock on the CR and studios... have to use this to prevent that someone walks suddenly in the studio during a session... Need also a double door with glass between studio 1 and studio 2.... studio 1 has a grand piano and studio 2 can function as drum booth... we record lot of stuff with synergy and record the entire band on the same time... doors has to be opened when we record bigger groups...

Been awhile since I was here, but wanna throw a coupla' bits and pieces on the fire... Door closer's and mag seals are a bit tricky. Here in the states, if you are building a studio that ends up being a commercially rated building, you have to deal with ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) which gets to be pretty anal about the amount of pressure it takes to break the seal and open the door. Rod is advising me to use a "standard" deadbolt and grab bar handles. I inquired; "So for all of the interior doors, I only need to be concerned about a deadbolt and handles?" In my build thread over at R.O., http://www.recording.org/ftopic-21631-810.html Rod states;

yes - outside coming in - which puts the person in the room always in control of the lock using the thumb latch.......... That also allows you to lock people out of areas they are not paying to use - Rod

While it would be my preference to use magnetic seals, IMHO, dealing with ADA just ain't worth the hassle. And... for anyone building here in the states, I would recommend you consider this issue if your studio is detached, or at some point could be considered a "commercial" structure. I'll also mention that doing a studio build and taking ADA into consideration is not really so bad, and actually a pretty good idea... In that, if you, as a studio owner, should ever be confined to a wheelchair, crutches, a walker or similar situation; whether permanent or temporarily, you'll be happy you did so... besides, most muso's (myself included) aren't exactly known for being all that graceful. Back to the door hinge issue.... I noticed a coupla' folks mentioned the EHD ball bearing hinges... I am using 4 - Stanley FBB168 EHD sealed ball bearing hinges, per door. http://stanley-hardware.com/default.asp?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=cht_highfreq.htm&LEFT=left_cht_highfreq.htm I found a coupla' dealers who sell on eBay, and snagged em' for about $4/ea, in a lot purchase.

The doors of Perception by Aldous Huxley, would have used Jim Morrison and his band, but they decided to check out early. . Sorry, bit of a silly comment. . I live in the UK, and am on a tight budget. Found some 30" 45mm solid core doors for £75.95 inc VAT. Which can also be cut down to make smaller. http://www.doordeals.co.uk/eMerchantPro/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=145&idproduct=741 . The same shop sells interior and exterior door frames too for good prices too. . :-)

I read through some of this briefly but what do you think of this setup? When I am finished I am going to have a small live room (18x16x9) and want to connect it to my small control room (18x10x9) with a door with a window in it. It's the best way for me to conserve wall space and create an easy route from one room to the other. I found a cheap door on craigslist (36"x80"). It's a insulated steel door with a huge opening for a window to be installed. What do you think? What's the best way to go about this. Thank you.

statictrash wrote:

I read through some of this briefly but what do you think of this setup? When I am finished I am going to have a small live room (18x16x9) and want to connect it to my small control room (18x10x9) with a door with a window in it. It's the best way for me to conserve wall space and create an easy route from one room to the other. I found a cheap door on craigslist (36"x80"). It's a insulated steel door with a huge opening for a window to be installed. What do you think? What's the best way to go about this. Thank you.

It is better than nothing. But a solid core fire rated door would be very beneficial to your isolation critical between tracking and monitoring rooms.

Excuse me, I am looking at your picture, and am goint go to the same kind of doors. How big sound isolation have you now? What are those doors layers you draw on the sketchup made from? And how thin they are? thank you

I got good isolation with mine (a modified ro's design) The important part here is the seals rather than your door. You can have a 60stc rating dor but if your seals suck, it isnt worth

Yes, OK, thank you but what are those layers made from and what is this yellow in the lower part of the door at the picture?

Read the post carefully and you'll find out :D (if you mean about Ro's door)

I'd say, start with them stickies (oh, wait.. this IS a sticky. :mrgreen:)

Hi guys! Very nice threat!! :yahoo: I am about to replace a faulty door in my studio. The idea is to screw 2 mdf boards 3cm x 2 for a total of 6cm solid mdf door. I have left some epdm rubber sheets 2,5mm weight 5kg/m2. Is it a good idea to place one or two layers of this between the two mdf layers?

Yiannis wrote:

I have left some epdm rubber sheets 2,5mm weight 5kg/m2. Is it a good idea to place one or two layers of this between the two mdf layers?

That's about 2000kg/m3 about 3 times the weight of MDF... seems like a good plan.

The problem now is that my carpenter worries about how to glue that door with two sheets of rubber in the middle :roll: He says that the door might bend at the top or bottom because there will be the rubber in the middle and the the two mdf sheets will not have direct contact. .Would it be better if I tell him to glue the two mdf together and then put the rubber on one side of the door and cover it with another sheet of mdf (1cm) but not glue it, just screw it? What do you think?

No glue, just screws. The order of layers doesn't really matter.

I got interested in this, because I'm trying to make a bedroom (which is directly adjacent to a TV room, in a house with teenagers) quieter. The sources and suppliers I found -- in the US -- are ID'd here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15528 Briefly, a company called Trustile (in Colorado) makes MDF doors in 3 different thicknesses, in any dimensions ordered. A company called Zero International makes gasket hardware for doors. Also note that there is another entire thread on doors, here on this board. Here's the link: viewtopic.php?t=1662

I ordered solid core MDF pre-hung exterior doors at Lowes. Just a thick, simple slab. Nothing fancy. They have worked well. They came with the gaskets already on them. Exterior doors mounted inside my studio. They are part of my 64dB isolation between rooms. I may have more than that when I measure again, after adding a window. I could also add hinges and "beef up" to a super door someday, if I wanted to. But I've been happy with the isolation, as is.

Hi guys! I have been looking for the answer of the following question, however I haven't been able after some hours of research. Are cold room doors (filled with polyurethane, steel, sealing jambs...) good for a studio and rehearsal rooms? I have attached a couple of images. I was able to find 3.5", 2.5" and 1.5" width doors, and it will be installed on an existing wood frame. Looking forward to read what you think. Cheers!

A cold room door is designed for a thermal environment. An acoustic door is designed for sound/vibration....the difference is the mass of the acoustic door which the thermal cold environment door has none of. The seals are good, magnetic in nature, but the mass is not there.

Hi man, thanks for the fast answer! I think I will go for an hybrid: seals from the cold room door but instead of the polyurethane, a rigid solid solid 1 3/4 door. Cheers!

Let's talk about sliding doors! :D I know the best bet would be to get a door made that has a thick, laminated glass piece. However, for the life of me I can't seem to find any of those here in Sweden. So, I've been looking at some normal sliding doors made for year round use on terraces, backyards, balconies etc.. They most often have like 4mm glass - 12mm air - 4mm glass. It sounds like it will not be isolating sound very well compared to a let's say.. 12mm total laminated glass. I found some information by searching, but I couldn't really find an answer to the following: How much of a STL loss are we talking about when comparing those two types of glass types? Are we talking about completely useless or just sub-optimal? Thanks in advance!

the 12mm (2x 6mm glass w/ laminate in-between) would be nice as would 19mm. a single 4mm air 4mm arrangement could be used in vox booth as it's probably 30db or so. here's a company in Sweden that makes acoustic doors and may be a lead on a slider door http://www.daloc.com/

On the topic of sliding doors,Would it be possible to use something like a super door on a sliding rail? I do not have the funds to buy glass right now and i have mdf and gyprock in abundance.