Studio Design for New England area

Best bet - keep the bezel to 1/4 inch or less. Round the edges where they meet the soffit face so you have a smooth transition in the surfaces.

Glenn do you mean the outside edges of the bezel?? The face of the soffit would "mound" up onto the bezel??

Is this to low for the vent port, or too large???? :oops:

Looks fine to me! - Stuart -

Looks fine. Yes, the outside of the bezel. You want the surface of the bezel to be flush with the speaker so it's a smooth transition to the wider soffit.

Just a quick question I have been pondering. I have 2, 125 degree corners in my control room where the walls splay. Due to the location of the entrance door it is not possible to enlarge the bass trap depth in one of the given corners . However if I do, it will only measure 8 inches across and be a tad over 2 inches deep. Should I still try and put some type of absorptive treatment there or is the angle too wide to even bother??? Thanks guys

yes, use the smaller absorber but do it.

Your drawing has soundboard and two layers of drywall. The soundboard is not doing anything worthwhile. If you want three layers in the wall, use a third drywall layer. ------------- (Spam signature deleted by moderator. And the poster will also be deleted if he keeps on trying these stupid tricks)

This just popped up on craigslist in my town- would the two panes make this a deal breaker?? 2 92" x 34" double pane (insulated), tempered (safety glass) panels (no frames). Each panel consists of 2 sheets of 3/16" thick tempered glass separated by an aluminum spacer around the perimeter that is bonded to the glass with a black rubber adhesive (silicone?). The total thickness is 5/8". The seal is in great condition. No moisture between the glass. They are HEAVY! These can be used in a solar project or in a house/garage remodeling project. I'm selling 2 for $50.00 each" What do u guys think, can I utilize this at all??

Theoretical resonant frequency of two sheets of 3/16" glass over a 1/4" air gap: approximately 220 Hz. It will start isolating at about 300 Hz (below that: no isolation), isolate reasonably at about 450 Hz, and isolate well above 650 Hz. Your call... :) - Stuart -

Yep Stuart, decided against that. But I'm goin to get some quotes tomorrow so just a few q's I haven't been able to find- 1 what is the typical size (height) of the setting blocks used in a window, my stops are 3/4 height 2 are the outer stops usually nailed in or screwed 3 laminate is best, plate is will do, tempered is a no no?

If you can get the two double insulated panes far enough apart from each other...for the price, it would be difficult to turn down. Tempered is not the last on the list...regular window pane glass is :)

Hey guys :D I wonder if anyone remembers me haha. It has been a while since I posted anything on here, but rest assure I have been following and continuing my build, and will share some new updated pics below. I do however have a few questions that I need answered, so if anyone could kindly oblige, it would be appreciated. 1) I have ordered my glass panes for my control room, custom cut 3/4" and 1/2" Float. The laminate was outrageous for what I was quoted. Anyhow in Rod's book, it says for outer stops to use 3/4" quarter round. I am worried that this may not support the front weight of the glass, even though it will be sandwiched between the two stops. Should I go thicker? 2) On that note, I am aware to use the 1/8" thick glazing tape for the stops to glass contact, but what about the height? same as the stops or lower and fill the small remaining gap with butyl caulk? Double sided adhesive I'm assuming? 3) Are 16 gauge finish nails recommended for holding the stops in place to the frame? Gun or hand - I don't want the glass to break

Hi Native! I've been folowing your build allmost at the begining :D I can't answer your questions but I must say that your control room looks amazing!!! Great workmanship!! Keep the pictures coming :D -janne

Hi Native same as Janne… you build is amongst my bookmarks (I learnt so much from your work). That room is just fantastic ! Please more pics !! :-)

Thank you both!!! I really hope you were able to learn from my mistakes, and all the advice Stuart and Brien gave to me. I promise I will get you more pictures, but I am only able to use my phone until I can get my digital camera back up and running. Now hopefully someone will chime in on my questions above.

NativeLuv17 wrote:

Hey guys :D I wonder if anyone remembers me haha.

Hai native! sure "we" remember, dude!

1) I have ordered my glass panes for my control room, custom cut 3/4" and 1/2" Float. The laminate was outrageous for what I was quoted. Anyhow in Rod's book, it says for outer stops to use 3/4" quarter round. I am worried that this may not support the front weight of the glass, even though it will be sandwiched between the two stops. Should I go thicker?

Outrageous... what was quoted?. 3/4 stops will hold the window in place, there's hardly any weight on it. Unless you have them panes skewed too much. Just use enough height to support it.

2) On that note, I am aware to use the 1/8" thick glazing tape for the stops to glass contact, but what about the height? same as the stops or lower and fill the small remaining gap with butyl caulk? Double sided adhesive I'm assuming?

. The height of the tape should be 6mm lower, at least, than your stops. you will need that 6mm for your sealant.

3) Are 16 gauge finish nails recommended for holding the stops in place to the frame? Gun or hand - I don't want the glass to break

As said, there's not much weight (usually) on the stops. Secure them with a nail or screw which is about 3 times the length of the stop. Breaking a piece of safety-glass isn't easy. Gun'm if ye can :) I did...

Good to see you still around Ro, I must admit it is partially my fault as to why the panes are so expensive, which is because I designed them with a slight taper at the top and run parallel with my soffit walls. Stupid I know, but it 'll look tre cool. So I was quoted $320 for 1/2" plate @ 6.2lb psf, and $600 for 3/4" plate @ 9lb psf, which is what I ended up getting. Apparently no one, not even any of the 5 glass companies I went to around here, makes 5/8" lami. 3/8 is as high as it goes, which would run me $900. I also kept getting really frustrated with everyone telling me, "Oh I did a window for a studio with 2 panes 1/4 inch lami with an air gap in the middle, and it sounds great." I mean I'm not trying to cut corners on this build but I thing 900 for 11 and a half square feet is a bit steep. I just wanted to follow up on your answers for me, as to which I thank you kindly sir -

3/4 stops will hold the window in place, there's hardly any weight on it.

3/4" quarter round will? Don't think I lack faith in your knowledge but, that will have enough surface area to hold the window? Would the finishing nails splice the quarter round?

Secure them with a nail or screw which is about 3 times the length of the stop.

So if my stops are 3/4" I'm looking at nails 2 1/4" long? Thanks Ro

I can provide no expertise on window stops ... If your concern about splitting the wood round ... you could pre-drill the holes at the proper angle, thereby taking some of the 'expansion' pressure off. As a side note ... At one of the studio I worked, they used screws when mounting the stops. Though, I think their stops were thicker stock. Of course, the dual panes of glass were about 8 ft wide and some 4 ft tall.

I found that the design layout which you have shared here is amazing and it is very nice idea to use proper space of the field. Still I can say that you have to get an idea from [SPAM LINK REMOVED BY MODERATOR] designer about it to make it more useful and well furnished.

wow, those quotations are of the roof. I recently bought 2 pieces of 1/2" laminated (6:2:6) glass (which equals about the mass of 3 sheets of 1/2" GB/MDF which make up the surrounding wall) for 200 euros.. for both :) Do as I did, ask the dealer to install the glass for you. Just prep the sills yourself and be specific about the installment. As in: seal off the whole perimeter and seal the stops. Most glass setters only seal the stops. They will nail the right stops for you, you only need to paint it :)

NativeLuv17 wrote:

This just popped up on craigslist in my town- would the two panes make this a deal breaker?? 2 92" x 34" double pane (insulated), tempered (safety glass) panels (no frames). Each panel consists of 2 sheets of 3/16" thick tempered glass separated by an aluminum spacer around the perimeter that is bonded to the glass with a black rubber adhesive (silicone?). The total thickness is 5/8". The seal is in great condition. No moisture between the glass. They are HEAVY! These can be used in solar panels project or in a house/garage remodeling project. I'm selling 2 for $50.00 each" What do u guys think, can I utilize this at all??

Do you still have the panels or tell me right source to get similar panels..I am searching for them for a while.. Hope you will reply.

Hey everyone, hope you are all well. I have a quick question. My vocal booth is built with 2 layers drywall gg in between, against 2x6. The outer leaf is kinetecs ISO clips, hat channel with 2 layers drywall. Question is, do I use two panes of glass or just one? I would assume 2 since this is still MSM but it would mean both panes would share the same frame?? Any help, would be much appreciated, thanks :)

Right! I would do it as two panes on the same frame, but work carefully to decouple the glass from the frame, with suitable rubber seals, carefully calculated to "float" the glass... That might be overkill, depending on how much isolation you need, but I'd still do two panes with an air gap. - Stuart -

Thanks Stuart!!!!