converting a loft (or do you say attic or roof? Sorry I'm UK

Wow. It's almost as though you've been here! John, have you got my speakers soffit mounted on that diagram. I think I will be using stand with them as discussed on the speaker forum. The angulation(?) of the room in your diagram cuts off corners. What would your advice be for absorption in this room (panel absorbers, slot/slat diffusers etc)? MANY THANKS :)

I'm just showing how to create angular shapes within what you have. I realise the ceiling is lowest where I've put your speakers - fine put them on stands, and the other puter is also in a low ceiling area leaving your walking/working area in the full height regions plus you get that booth you hoped for. cheers john

Now, I ralise that this may sound like I'm rally thick and haven't been listening to a word you've been writing but, here goes (gulp)... With me not having an abundance of space I'm loathed to angle the walls. If I trap evey wall (ala Ethan - low/high bass panels and mid/high absorbers) can I not get away with the existing shape. I know it doesn't really look like a "recording studio" but I feel that this loft isn't going to be my final resting place, studio-wise, if you get my drift. I have to consider resale value but want to make it more than just a bog standard room. Surely there is a happy medium? (Don't say Uri Gellar!) CHeers, then. All the best

Well - you room is angular anyway because of the way the ceiling goes. cheers JOhn

That's true. So is that enough angulation in your opinion?

Yes, but, what you add can be angular like this. You said you prefered panel absorbers, try doing this with a panel absorber. :) cheers john

What angle is that John? Is there a minimum it needs to be? May panel absorbers ae going to be angled in themselves ie. 6" at one side an 5" at the other. If I angle out the panels absorbers on the opposing wall that will give me some tres crazy non-parralel walls, non? Thanks for the help Cheers

you need around 12 degrees difference IMO cheers john

John, on that last diagram you did of my room aren't the speakers (what studio designers term) "firing into compression"? Or am I usuing language here that I have no business to? I like the idea of having the separate booth but am still having problems giving away great swathes of my room to angled walls. Out of interest, would all these angled walls be best made with slot resinators and, if so, what would the optimum slot/slat/slut :lol: and trap depth be? Cheers Oliver

No it's not firing into compression Oliver. You can make the walls out of slots or panels - whatever. The staircase created parallel walls so all I did was break them up. cheers john

Hi John, I'm back!... ... and they're coming to start the loft on...MONDAY. Well erecting scaffolding and so forth...so I really need to take stock with all my bits and pieces. My wooden floor joists (about 8' span) are resting "in the web"(internally) on RSJ's. Would I achieve better isolation if I floated the ends of the joists on neoprene rubber and if so what thickness would I need. I realise it depends on how heavy my floor is going to end up being but I wondered if there was an average estimated weight of studio floors taking into acount the thickness (2"), spacing (16") and legnth of joists (8' approx) I can get hold of neoprene rubber 2" thick and I imagine this has quite a lot of "spring" in it but will it be enough with a studio full of gear or would I be better of abandoning the floating joists idea?

Hi mate - wondered where you go to :) You might as well float it because you can - steve has a formula for the neoprene - not sure where though - may be a search?/ cheers john

...well, I'm back (3 years later) Did the loft conversion. Spent £38,000, £8,000 of which went on sound isolation. Upgraded floor (3 1/2" thick), 5 1/2" thick door, seals, triple glazed windows, etc, etc All worked rather well and was quite happy with the result. Didn't get total isolation but my 3 and 6 year olds bedrooms were directly underneath and even at full volume I never disturbed their sleep... What was the attenutaion then? I hear you say. Well... I never actually got to find out cos.....we've moved Ah well, I'll be back becasue my new place has got rather a nice garage which has been earmaked for my studio which is 18'x10' with a 11' head height so, plenty of scope. Thanks for all the previous advice. I'm kinda gutted that all my research and work and, not least, your advice in the loft conversion has now been left behind at the old house. However, I now view it as a learning experience, a "dry run" if you will for this new studio from which I can learn many lessons due, in no small part, to all the terrific advice I got here Cheers Oliver

can't believe it's 3 years since my last post. Haven't been idle....well, i have actually. OK so this garage conversation. Yes 18'x10' 11' head height but this will reduce by about 4 inches or so as building regs require me to insulate the floor (sand then cellotex) It's an integral garage with one wall being an outside wall. the construction is cavity wall. Brick 4" gap filled with mineral wool insulation, then light weight thermalite block. My first question. It seems to me I should really add mass to the light weight blocks and the best way to do this would be to render with sand and cement. Is this correct or should i dry line it? I'm not interested in building another wall in front of the existing one as I've already got a fairly good isolation (nearest neighbours 25 yards from the outside wall) and I want to keep the room as big as possible for drums and a grand piano. Also what do you think of this green glue stuff? Is it gimicky or what? This would be for a doulble layer of sheet rock fixed with aforementioned green glue.. Great to be back BTW. Oliver

Sounds good idea to start with, if i reach a result i will post it. [NO YOU WON'T POST A RESULT; SINCE YOU HAVE BEEN BANNED AND YOUR SPAM SIGNATURE HAS BEEN DELETED BY MODERATOR]