converting a loft (or do you say attic or roof? Sorry I'm UK

I've posted this question elsewhere on this forum but never saw it come up so ...her we go again. I'm doing my attic into a studio. i need help with bass trapping etc Got loads of questions. Wanna get it right. Don't mind spending (some) cash if the result will be good. Are there any designs for triangular prism shaped bass traps to hang in the ceiling void of a loft? Thanks Oliver

I'm new to this acoustics stuff, but I don't see why you couldn't use a corner absorber like this one: I got the image from John's Wall Units page http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/index1.htm John or some of the other guys here might have a better idea though.

Oliver - any chance of you posting a picture of your setup?? so we can see your layout?? cheers john

Yes, John. I'll draw it out and post it forthwith. Cheers

Righty ho. Here it is! My attic studio is still very much at the "pre-build" stage to the extent that the staircase isn't in nor the floor or plasterboard walls. I wanted to get some ideas before these things were done so that I didn't miss the boat so to speak for insulation, floating the floors etc. I've included three drawings. All measurements are fairly approximate as the whole thing will end up smaller anyway. For instance the new floor will be at least 6 inches higher than shown onm the plans. My architect (who is coming for his first site visit next Saturday 15th March) thinks I maybe able to put some kind of dormer window to the side elevation. This is dependant on the local council plans but shouldn't be a problem. It will probably be an extension of the ridge all the way to the side wall forming a gable end. It may or may not be the full width of the roof again this depends on the planning permission. More details when I have them. So to my studio. All i need is a control room (plus a small live room in the dormer if I go ahead with it?) With great acoustics. Sound leakeage isn't really an issue but any suggestions that aren't too expensive will be implemented. I am a pianist and singer, you see, and I want a place to record my albums so the live room (if I have one) just needs to be big enough for a full size keyboard and me. A great vocal sound is important to me (I have a Rode Classic mic) as these CD's are for release so I think I need a fairly dead live room, if that makes any sense. As mentioned elsewhere on this forum I would like to soffit mount my speakers if this is an option with actives. the only other idea i have is regarding the chimney breast wall. My architect says that a stud wall will nedd to be erected 6 inches in front of it. This would leave a void of 6 inches in front of the chimney breat but a wacking great 18" in the alcoves either side. I was therefore wondering if utilizing this space, odd-shaped though it is (see side elevation drawing) for bass trapping. Ok I'm all done talking here are the pix. www.oliversheen.ukgateway.net

and side

and rear

I resized your drawings Martin as they were huge :):) Ok the plans are a bit confusing at first glance so I've tried to interpret them as a 3D. Martin - is this what it's like?? cheers JOhn

very, very close. Only two things wrong. 1) The two brown struts of wood that come to a point on the floor are flush against the chimney breast and not on the other ends of the perlins as you have them (althought there is no way of telling this from my drawings) 2) My name is Oliver, not Martin although feel free to call me Martin if that helps!! Cheers By the way the probable location of the staircase will be coming up alongside the back elevation facing the right chimneybreast alcove and then turning in on a quarter-landing to face the right elevation. This will require a small dormer to accomdate regualtion head-height at the top of the stairs. Oliver

He he - sorry "Oliver" - I'm sure it's a slip many make :):) My appologies. I'm still not quite sure how the staircase is going to get upstairs. It appears that somehow you are going to need to break through one of the horizontal perlins. Could you draw it please as it's crutial to the layout. You only have a small area with a regular head height in the middle of the room. cheers JOhn

The headheight goes upto 10'6" at the apex and the perlins are all about face height so there is approx 10'x 12' area to walk about in before the roof slope hits you in the face. The stairs will need a small dormer to allow head height at the top of them which I've shown in my drawing (which hopefully is now a more managemable size :oops: ) Yes the perlin will have to be cut but this is common practice for dormers isn't it. Don't they just support the perlin either side with vertical props? Sorry about my drawings hopefully you get the idea. Cheers

John, I've attached another drawing of my loft (at a different angle) showing where the stairs will go. I have measured it and there will be enough room providing a small dormer is placed over the stairs. I think even without a big dormer on the side elevation roof I will still have a fair sized room simply because I have so much head height at the apex of the room. what do oyu think? Cheers

Yes that staircase makes sense and the dormer will allow access. If you look at my attached drawing you will see that to stand at 6'6" (US basketball player) you will have an area of around 8' x 8'. But I assume you will be sitting at a keyboard so you can get a wider space. Do you have a puter recorder or what?? The lower sections can be made into traps and fortunately all you walls are angled :) I don't see a chance of having a separate live room but you could make the main room sound good for both recording your vocal and keys as well as mix in it ok. cheers john

Yes I record onto VST. What do you mean the lower sections can be used for trapping? What are the lower sections exactly. Do you reccommend boarding accross the chimney breast and putting panel absorbers on the plaster board or is there some way I can use the depth of the chimney breast for this. It would be very nice if I cou;d use that space as it would be redundant anyway and, asyou have shown on your drawings, space is kind of at a premium in my room. Cheers :D

What do you mean the lower sections can be used for trapping? What are the lower sections exactly.

this area. cheers john

Should I put acoustic hangers in these two areas? and if so do acoustic soft, semi rigid or rigid fibreglass glued to each side. Thanks a lot (I'll resist saying "cheers" this time :wink: ) cheers

Should I put acoustic hangers in these two areas?

well - you could use hangers, panel absorbers or slot resonators. cheers john

Presumably, in the case of hangers the larger the area of panel the lower frequency it will absorb? Can the hangers be triangular shaped to hang in my roof void providing they are the correct surface area and does the place where the hangers hang need to be airtight? Cheers Oliver

The new joists will be mounted either on the existing supporting wall or new RSJ's. Is it worth laying the joists on neoprene rubber to prevent as much of the structure borne noise going downstairs or will the difference be negligee Cheers Ollie

Yes they can be triangular Oliver - also, say in your roof, vary in size (vertical depth). Yes it's advisable to float any new floor on rubber. Have a look at S.Productions at the Construction site. What sort of noise problem are you going to have with rain noise on your roof?? cheers john

From the dimensions on the SAE site it appears that the hangers have a surface area of .9m sq. (1.8m x 500mm low) and .36m sq. (1.2m x300mm low/mid) Is it critical that my triangular panels are this area also. With regards to rain on the roof - don't be silly. this is Britain. We don't have rain :lol: Seriously, I hadn't thought of it. What is a good solution for this? Cheers oliver

Have just been to S. Productions on the Cons. site. How thick are those rubber pucks? Cheers Oliver

The pucks are 1/2". Go to luis studio again and look at how he's done the ceiling. cheers john

How thick and what sort of insulation should I use on the panels? What is the ideal size of gap between the panels? Cheers :?

On your elevation3 jpeg, John, you have the roof void sloping towards the front. Why is this and is it better than it sloping back. I think my architect will insist on flat supporting trusses for the roof timbers there. Cheers