GroffStudio Recording Room (edited)

Hi, I hope no one would crucify me for this request, because I didn't post my thread/diary here at RSD forum. :mrgreen: If you do, I probably deserve it. I'm on the beginning of my recording room project but acoustic department of RO is a bit sleepy for some time, at least for what I need. If you're in the mood and have some free time to see the pics and the project, you are welcome. I would like to hear your comments and advices before I do something wrong. I will appreciated your help. http://recording.org/ftopict-38022.html Thank you very much in advance Greetings from Croatia

Aloha and welcome to the forum, groff! Congrats on your studio build! Any chance you could please:

Edit your profile to include your location. This is very important, because this is a worldwide resource, and as such, material costs and availability vary widely. For example, masonry is cheaper than gypsum in some parts of the globe, whereas it's the exact opposite in other regions.

You'll probably get more of a response by doing so and this will really come in handy two or three posts down the road. It's also part of the forum guidelines: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7572 http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3231 Thanks! :wink: Looking forward to your build! Aloha 8)

Sorry for the profile. Done. I'm long time lurker here (over a year) and I readed all those sticky stuff before and, of course, many threads. Awesome site with great info. I have learned a lot, but there always would be a field for some questions. It's nice to know that at least one pair of experienced eyes watching on me from time to time. Thanks best regards

Very impressed so far with your studio build on that other site

Aloha groff, Is/was this a diagram of your live room or control room? Red – windows/door sound barriers Yellow – open/close barriers Blue – fire resistant boards Green – slot absorbers Aloha 8)

Aloha to you too, Kendale It's the live room. The (yelow) plug on the right side will not be there. Just the barrier. One window-plug (left side) would be enough.

Aloha, Thanks for updating your profile! :wink: BTW, since you've joined the RSD in August 2006 and now completed your profile, you are no longer an "outsider." Welcome to the forum! :D Say, if you would, could you post your pics/questions/current status anew here, please. This will help to get us up and running and on the same page alot faster without having to toggle between two sites. Thanks! :wink: Aloha 8)

Hi, Thanks for kind words of welcome, Kendale :D No problem at all, I will resume my diary, few questions with pics and post here tomorrow. Thanks. See you soon. best regards

I'm practicing image update .... :lol: :twisted: :oops: so be patient for a while..... i'm trying to figure out how to paste uploaded photo between the text, not just under :oops: nothing. i will split the storry in few posts. sorry.

I'm turning the part of old European masonry into my temporary recording location (home/project studio), starting with recording (live) room. The building (a house with arched basement, ground floor and one floor above) has massive brick walls, most of those are over 19’’ (50 cm') covered with stucco (plaster). The bricks are solid, without „air chambers“. Recording and control room are surrounded with other rooms (empty and out of use) and only one side of the room (with windows on north side) is exposed to street with moderate traffic. Nobody lives in the house. Recording room is 16.4' (L) x 15' (W) x 10.5'(H) (5 m x 4.6 m x 3.2 m)

Because of room dimensions (it's already too small) and budget limit I can’t play with the room in the room design so the only way for stopping noises from outside is to make some frames and fill/cover it with gypsum boards and OSB. Of course there would be some flanking noises I have to live with, but the less the better. Lumbers are 4.3''x 3.5'' (11 x 9 cm) and the frame is 5.9' x 9.8' (180 x 300 cm). Similar construction, but with the door, would be on the right wall with existing two wings door between the live and control room. Here’s what was done: wooden floor is replaced with reinforced 2’’ concrete, windows are fixed and repainted, many old layers of wall paint are removed, lumber frames are attached to the wall. Few photos:

Now we go to - act two. First, I’m planning to fill the lumber bays with one OSB layer then with 2 – 3 layers of drywall. The OSB will be attached with screws on the inner wooden frame and then drywall layers on the OSB. After that, I will add one OSB and 3 - 4 drywall layers on the face of the lumber frame (room side). After reading Dan’s thread (6th pg.), I’m not so sure about adding more than 2 layers of drywall (2+1 OSB) inside the lumber bays. The mass and density of wooden frame is the weakest link so adding more layers into the bays seems to be throwing the material and money. I suppose adding more layers on the face of the frames will be better for higher value of STC and TL. http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=2274&highlight=cloud Question one: With how many layers of drywall inside the bays and how many on the face of frame to go? Hmmmm … OK, I will rephrase the question. Have you any data about comparison of the mass and density between gypsum and wood?

Next one. The surface of the plaster (and the wall) is uneven and far away from being flat, so there are gaps between the frame and the wall. Some of those are small but some are inch deep. Here’s “my” idea how to fix this: I will cut drywall board in few inches wide „stripes“ and glue it with flexible tile adhesive on the plaster surface. In combination with extra added stripes on lateral sides of the lumber and caulk/backer rod should help to seal the gaps. Question 2: What do you think about it?

Now, what bothers me a bit more, is caulking the bottom edges of every gypsum layer inside the lumber bays of my frames. It's common practice to leave and caulk usually 1/4'' gap around the perimeter because of „swing and breathing“ caused by temperature, moisture, etc during time. But why the gap under the bottom edges? The whole mass of inner gypsum boards will be supported by the horizontal lumbers, the inner frames and screws just keep and prevent the boards from falling off. If the lumber moves slightly down (or banding up) mass should follow. That was initial idea. Now if I leave the gap under the bottom edges of drywall boards, the whole mass would be hang on inner frames. Hmmmm .... that's not good. Question 3: I’m wondering what’s gonna be if I put the caulk bead on horizontal lumbers and immerse the bottom edges of boards in, without the bottom gap?

On the end, I would like to show you the sketch of the plug-wing with double duty: sound barrier and ventilation. The air is good. From time to time.:lol: This plug will be into one bay and only on the left frame. Dimensions are 50’’x 33’’ x 5’’ (129x85x13 cm). Because of its mass I’m planning to use the metal frame as main supporter. I think the drawing is self-explanatory. Of course all “edges” will be armed with double neoprene seals. Opinions are welcome. Thanks a lot. Enough for this time. Best regards.

Aloha Groff, Nice post. Keep 'em coming! :wink: Hre's a few links on some the how's & why's of caulking/sealing off windows from the Reference Section. http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2125 How to drywall and caulk? Step Sequence.... http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=20003 Caulk and Insulation - the name says it all - http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2045 More on Caulking - scroll down about half the page http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... c&start=15 Even More on Caulking - http://toolbase.org/PDF/DesignGuides/FP ... s_Outs.pdf Sealing off bedroom windows acoustically - Just like it says... http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=272 Hope these help. Aloha 8)

Thanks kendale. I will read this again, maybe I mist something. I'm working on caulking the gaps around frames, more pics soon.

uh ...

Hi, I'm done with first layer on outer/lateral sides of frames. It wasn't hard work, just goes slow and takes lot of time for drying between steps. The moisture resistant drywall attached on the wall with flexi tile adhesive. Nothing much different than doing regular tiles. 24h drying time. The big problem was to find the backer rod because it is not in common use here. After long and frustrating searching I found it only in one store, but they won’t sell less than 2 miles !!! No words can tell you how angry I was. So the only option left is to cut the foam and make it by myself. And dammit I did it. The gap filled and caulked. 3 days of drying. Next drywall comes on lateral frame side. I'm using primer on the contact edges for better surface adhesion of caulk. I did the test before (with/without the primer) and adhesion was enormously better. This drywall is attached with caulk on the back and screws. Then the backer rod and caulking again. The second layer goes after placing OSB and drywall in the frame bays, but before that I have to do revision of the window plug. I realize that, according to my previous plan, this plug goes over 80 kg. It's just too much. Best regards

part two

finale

Aloha groff, Looking good so far. Keep up the good work! Aloha 8)

Hi, Some progress … On the door frame OSB plates are mounted on the inner frame and caulked, then the first drywall layer is on.

Few details of caulking the wider gaps (window frame) using pieces of drywall. The space between the lumbers and wall is tightly filled with closed cell foam and with extra backer rod.

Behind the old wood strips are cotton sheet (only decorative) and dense foam touching the glass. From the inner window glass to the last drywall on the frame this would be one leaf. Filling the cavity with insulation: mineral wool, old cloth but mostly old feather/plume pillows are compressed in garbage bags.