Getting started finnaly on THE METH LAB

Hey guys thanks for all the replies. Man im bummed about the RC knightfly. I should have guessed it would be something hard to get, 703 took me 6 months to track down. Thankfully a guy on this forum hooked me up and shipped it from Cleveland cheeper than I could drive to Dallas to get it. Some of you lucky guys with easy access to all this junk could make some money off us cats in romote areas! Forget the RC, Im ready to be DONE! Im picking up the AC on my lunch break. Picking up the dry wall Saturday and by Sunday I plan to be putting this puppy to bed! We have not jammed for 2 weeks and we have a HUGE album to record. I bought a Presouns firepod and new stereo mics I have not even unwrapped since January! Im ready for the lights and sounds man! Ok another question: untill I can afford more drywall my partition wall will be uneven in drywall layers. The inside of the control room I will be starting from scratch, including the ceiling. There is already a layer of 1/2 on the outside of the partition. I have enough money to do 1 layer of 5/8 on the inside and 1 over the 1/2 on the outside but would I be better off doing 2 layers on the inside instead and just leave the 1/2 on the outside for now? Would that even make a differnce? Also, I couldnt find the 3 1/2 insulation UN-FACED. I had to buy the craft face batts, Thats not gonna cause a 3 leaf problem will it? If it is a problem I guess I could take a razor down the middle of each batt before drywall to let the batts breath better? PS you guys Kick ASS! Thanks so much Len-Morgan you are DA MAN, Thanks for the offer, as much as id love to record in a real facility, I love the process to much to take you up on your generous offer. I do however still want to come check out yur place when Im in the neiborhood.

Also: I suck at using the search function. I think John posted plans for beefing up a hollow core door using drywall at somewhere. He made plans for a seel and everything BUT I CANT FIND IT!!!! Anyone know where thats at?

Carpfttx, The offer still stands and you'll always be welcome at the studio. As to being a "real facility," the jury's still out. :-) You'd be surprised what a little paint and some stained wood can do! :-) I think the door you are talking about was posted by Knightfly and the gist of the idea was to use a HOLLOW core door (i.e., real cheap) and then bond (w/ glue and screw) a layer of 3/4" MDF to each side. This gives you a M-A-M structure which he felt might be a dB or 2 better than a solid core door (and a lot cheaper too). This is how I'm building the doors in my studio that are NOT solid core. You should remember though that you should NOT use this where you have have double doors (like the passage between my big room and my vocal booth) because you end up with m-a-m-a-m-a-m (a quad leaf). Hope that helps. len

Carpwftx wrote:

I couldnt find the 3 1/2 insulation UN-FACED. I had to buy the craft face batts, Thats not gonna cause a 3 leaf problem will it? If it is a problem I guess I could take a razor down the middle of each batt before drywall to let the batts breath better?

Actually, it could make a difference (and not a good way) if the kraft paper is not pressed against the drywall. The kraft paper will act as a middle leaf, dividing your air gap into two. That's not good! Make sure you apply it towards the correct side so that you don't end up with a "condensation in the wrong place" problem. I'm not going to tell you the correct side because I don't want to be wrong and advise you incorrectly. Do your research on this. I'm thrilled for you that you are moving forward again, but please, do not rush, or you're almost certain to make mistakes in your haste. --Keith :mrgreen:

Ohhhhh Keith you cant leave me hanging like that man!!!! Whats this condensation thing are you taliking about? I had a feeling the paper would be an issue and of course its not intalled perfectly to meet up with the drywall (look who is intalling it!) 8) Knightfly Lord of acoustics....please lay your wisdom apon thee!!! Can I slice the paper up real good with a razor before drywall to avoid a possible 3rd leaf? Yeah I know Im rushing it :cry: ........But I cant wait any longer! Maybe I will get an STL rating of 10 but at least I will be jamming again! I just ordered some new Isolation headphones, Im sure they will come in handy :lol:

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... +core+door Test

Ya found the door thingy; now here's the deal on kraft paper, vapor, moisture, zen, and the art of saying NOTHING with the most words :? If you're talking about a wall that has no appreciable temperature difference between one side and the other, it's a non-problem; temperature DIFFERENCE is what drives vapor/moisture, and it will drive it from the HOT side to the COLD side; so Kraft paper (a VARIABLE-permeability material) needs to be placed as the first item behind the drywall on the HOT side, so vapor can't be driven INTO the wall - in addition, there needs to be NO such vapor barrier on the OTHER, COOLER side of said wall; this way, any moisture that DOES manage to get inside the wall still has an ESCAPE route and the wall will dry out. OUTSIDE walls - vapor barrier goes OUTSIDE the studs when there will be more cooling time inside; vapor barrier goes INSIDE the studs when there will be more HEATING time inside (as in, number of heating or cooling days per year) Acoustically, any vapor barrier that's part of the insulation WITHIN a wall needs to be against one or the other inner layer of wallboard, but NOT half-way BETWEEN the two - for a double-framed wall, this means that (for example) if your space is built in a bigger space, and that bigger space will NOT be kept at the same temperature as the INNER space, then you need to follow the upper paragraphs and put your Kraft facing toward the side that will be HOTTER more of the time. IF, however, the inner and outer space will both be controlled by the same heating/cooling system, then it doesn't matter as long as the paper is against ONE or the OTHER inside layer of wallboard. For OUTSIDE walls; follow the "barrier goes on the HOT side" rule, and ONLY on one side. RC - unless you have limited space and are using the same frames for inner wall layers as you are for OUTER wall layers, don't use RC at all. Just use 2x4 stud frames (two of them) spaced an inch or more apart, fill the ENTIRE cavity with "fluffy stuff" (if you can't get un-faced, get THICK, and follow above rules) - if you'll support your inner ceiling on your inner wall, be sure and DOUBLE the caps on the inner wall frames for better support. 2x4's on 24" centers gives better wall performance than on 16" centers - OFFSETTING the inner frame from the outer one by a foot MAY improve wall performance a dB or two (no tests to back this) but will make it a PAIN to walk around before all the wallboard is up. IF you can only put one layer on one side of your CR wall, I'd put the lighter one INSIDE; no difference in isolation between the two choices, but you will see a slight but noticeable improvement in low bass control INSIDE the CR PROVIDED you've slightly over-stuffed your insulation to prevent RINGING - this, because drywall on studs is your basic "low bass trap" centered somewhere around 60 hZ; the slight overstuff of insulation will broaden this peak (good) and damp any ringing (also good) Did I forget anything? (Hell, I ALWAYS forget something; it's what I do :roll: ) ... Steve

You tha man Steve. Lucky for me I intalled the craft side correctly without even knowing! Also lucky for me, I way over estimated my dry wall needs so I WILL have 2 layers on each side of the partition. Some progress notes- First layer of drywall is up, A/C is installed and running good, The entire performance room has been painted! We are just a couple days from bieng done! We did run into a few minor problems. Nothing is square in this building so the dry-wall didnt come out perfect on the cieling. I have some Arkansas enginering to come up with to deal with the problem. Im thinking the second layer of dry wall will lock it in good, lots of caulk, and mud is the best I can do I guess. I knew I wouldnt perfect everything especially the construction, but Im gonna make sure its air tight! Yeah I found your door plans, I started my door before I found it. I used 1/2" Dry-wall instead of MDF....... :o . I hope that deosnt mess something up. I have to build a threshold from scratch so Im sure a few "WATCH YOUR STEP" signs will be in order when im done. Hey here is a question, where do you get them Neproteen rubber pucks ??? (I cant spell) I was thinking of using some for drum risers and 4x12 cabinet stands. Dont tell me I have to order them from freaking Brazil or something!