framing progress

Awesome! Could you add that source to the Building Products forum?

Man, that pic looks surprisingly like a sketch I drew recently... :wink:

Holy cow -- I missed that! See Steve? We actually are paying attention to you! 8) --Keith :mrgreen:

Man, that looks really good. Can't wait to see more pictures.

Thanks Steve the doorway is much better now. I listed the Roxul in San Diego on the building products page Sharward, Thanks for pointing that out and thank you Cyeazel for the motivation. Pic of the cieling of the room thats far right on the first page design. the ceiling is 10feet high . 1x2s inside rafters to mount dry wall at an angle between rafters. also the inside of ceiling is sealed with cualking and insulated with 2in. roxul

this is storage space for mics and cables what not , the 2x4 stud wall is angled at 17 degrees. now if I slat the front of this wall and seal the back with drywall and isulation would it work or should I do it another way?

I'm sorry I didn't ask about this before... I must have missed it when you posted the pics for this... But what's the deal with the ceiling here? Please describe exactly what you're doing there, and why, and whether there will be any additional materials/layers/ceilings beyond what we're seeing there. I'm basically concerned about third leaf and/or flanking really screwing with your TL... What I'm not seeing is the customary "beef up between joists" scenario often discussed here. :roll:

The angled dry wall on the ceailing is to deflect from paralel floor their is a roof 5 feet above that.

So, above that ceiling is an attic then? If so, is the attic vented? If so, I don't think you have a very high performing two leaf system. I'm concerned that your ceiling won't keep up. Do you care about containing your noise? In addition, I'm suspicous of what that zig-zag ceiling is going to do to your acoustics. I don't think I've seen that type of ceiling before... Perhaps you should post a question about that in the Acoustics forum here. Overall I'm not confident in what I'm seeing... :roll: Hopefully I'm wrong and just overreacting to things with which I'm not very familiar. Anyone else also generally uncomfortable with this? :?:

the atic space has 3 small vents One on top and 2 on the side I have one layer of partical board on top and one layer of drywall on bottom of the cieling. If I understand you correct I should have more mass, more layers on top and bottom to have better sound control?

Yes -- more layers, and decoupled. However, at this point we don't know what your ceiling joists are, so there's risk of overloading them. A collapsed ceiling/roof could be deadly. :shock:

The joist are 2x6 x16 at every 16 inches since one wall is at an angle one side is 16ft and the other side is 12ft

According to the span calculator I use, using Doug Fir #2 2x6 16" o.c. with 20psf live and 10psf dead (i.e., not especially strong), the maximum span should be 12.25 feet. The longest span I see in your sketch shows about a 16 foot span. This probably means that the species and/or grade of lumber used in your house is stronger than the one I specified. However, it does prove a point that you may be overloading your joists, even adding just one layer! I therefore recommend you stop what you are doing immediately and consult a professional to verify the strength of those joists can withstand what you are putting on it! Although it may not collapse under normal conditions, it may collapse the next time someone crawls into the attic over that space! Or, worst case, it may collapse while you and your all-time favorite people are under it! Adding literally hundreds of pounds to a ceiling is significant and must be taken seriously!

Will do. thanks

here's the deal with the cieling,choose to add a beam down the center and the longest span will be 8 feet or redo the joist with 2x12 .

Crap -- why didn't I think of that?! :evil: But seriously... ;-) ...Either seems like a winner plan. Of course you'll need to consult a pro to make sure the calculations are in synch with the idea. Please keep us posted -- this is good brain food. --Keith :mrgreen:

Ruben, is this what you have so far? Questions - What instruments, etc, do you intend to record in the room? How bright a sound do you want? What's the current ceiling height (lower ceiling, not roof)? Is this room-in-room construction, or?? Details or sketch or both Forgive me if already covered, but inner, outer sound levels and isolation needs? Your current construction IS already 3-leaf; the canted wallboard will act as a variable-spaced third leaf. Roof is first leaf, MDF is second, and wallboard is the third one which will weaken isolation at varying frequencies due to variable air gap depth. When I get your answers to the other questions, I'll make some suggestions for changes/additions... Steve

I intend to track drums in this room How bright ? Like a short ambient bright. Your sketch is right on but the roof has a curve and I'll take some mesurments and take a picture of it asap. The current cieling is 10 ft and this is a room within a room.

While you're doing that, (from your earlier post) this is storage space for mics and cables what not , the 2x4 stud wall is angled at 17 degrees. now if I slat the front of this wall and seal the back with drywall and isulation would it work or should I do it another way? You can do it that way; if you put heavy gypsum or MDF on the mic locker side of the frame, then rip 2x stock to 1-1/2" square for cleats, place the cleats at the rear (away from the main room) to keep insulation toward the slats - then 2" rockwool in cavities, dark cloth cover stapled to studs, and if you use 1x6 slats (actual 3/4" x 5-1/2") spaced 3/8" apart, you'll get a center freq of approx. 300 hZ which works well for drums (primary mode of kick drum shell for 22 or 24" diameters) Keep in mind that any absorption will partially WEAKEN the wall behind at that frequency; wouldn't hurt to put an extra layer of 5/8 gyp on the walls/ceiling of the mic locker to compensate for this. HTH... Steve BTW, for that purpose I'd NOT do the angled gypsum ceiling; while it's true that would reduce flutter, it will also reduce isolation and add weight. Instead, I'd add layers to the MDF on TOP of those joists, fill the cavities with rockwool and cover with garbage bags (or similar weight plastic) and ADD that beam you mentioned across the room, shortening your spans to 8 feet or less. You can cover the beam with more rockwool/cloth to kill reflections. The thin plastic will contain any shedding from the rockwool AND increase the brightness in the room by a few dB; stay thin with the plastic though; too thick and you may get a bit of flutter. If, after you're done with the room, you still have some flutter - you can add slats to the ceiling joists (all or part) - same dimensions, the extra depth will lower frequency center to around 240 hZ. If you did a LARGE area I'd vary slat spacing to broaden the absorption frequency a bit... Steve

Thanks Steve, I'll go with the layers of mdf on top. If I add slats on cieling joist, are you thinking on bottom of joist or at an angle between the the joist?

I've not actually done this, but would think that angling the slats would be VERY time-consuming; from an acoustic standpoint, angled would probably be more useful - less chance of flutter, more variability of surface, probably a bit brighter than thin plastic over insulation but LESS absorption in the mids - which isn't a BAD thing; one reason foam makes rooms sound "boxy" is more mid absorption than lows... Steve

here is the pic of the roof above the cieling but not much lighting. hard to notice but it has a curve.

Sorry I've been M I A for so long folks I lost my Interrnet service for a while (3 months) and I had minor surgery. alot has been done without pics since Im the only one taking them with my cheap $25 camera .So there's a gap of no pics that were never taken by my partner and friends. so far the control rooms almost done.The restroom is done :D

Welcome back! Glad to see you've been making progress. Hopefully the surgery wasn't serious...

Thanks for the welcome Sharward It was a sebaceous syst on my mid upper back and the real problem was it got infected. It took the doctor a good 45 minutes removing that thing and he did real good. It took a about 4 weeks to heal after all that. I'm good now :lol: