Peel Productions - JohnG's Studio Thread

Been a while but heres a small update. (1) New false wall for front of the control room. this will have insulation and stretched fabric. (2/3) Live room - ceiling sanded and painted, spots in, power on, bass trap framed, celeco fabric starting to go on walls. The black wall will be a 1x6 slat resonator. White walls as is except thin timber strips to cover staple lines. JohnG

Hey John Your studio is looking great! Doesn't look like the "finish" line is too far away. :) I had some questions in looking at your thread... 1.) On page 6 in the very 1st picture (the false front)...those blue straps...are those some type of nylon straps you used to hold up your insulation from the rear? Did you use them in front? They look like some strap material I've seen on my job. If they work pretty good, I've got an UNLIMITED supply of it. Did it work ok? 2.) The wallbox in the live room...Did you buy that as is or did you make it? It looks like it's going to be flush with your wall. Did you build a housing for it (some typ of box covering it from the rear and sides), or is it mounted to the studs with insulation around it? Keep up the good work!

Hi Stan, To answer your questions (1) The blue strap is that plastic carton strap you can get at Home Depot etc. Works really well at providing an insulation backing where theres a gap. I just stapled it up. (2) The wall box is actually a plate I had made to my spec. I just made a small wodden box for it and screwed that to the studs. Once the cloth is on it will stick out about 1", just enough for a timber moulding to go around it to hide the cloth staple lines. Thanks JohnG

The strapping works well; but if you use staples, be sure to use LONG ones; T50's only come in 9/16" or shorter, that length would be minimum IMO. I prefer to use a coil roofing nailer and 1-1/4" large head roofing nails... Steve

Slat resonator, bass trappy thing finished today. Looks Magic!! JG

atleast is LOOKS great! But uhrm, a slot resonator in a corner. Does it absorp bass too? (depends on your resonator config I quess) I'm still a bit confused on basstraping/broadband absorbing/slot resonaters and all. Have to do more readings.... It that a BUILD in corner trap? (what materials behind it etc.?) r

Aloha,

But uhrm, a slot resonator in a corner. Does it absorp bass too?

From the John Sayers Productions website - Wall Units http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/index1.htm

THE CORNER ABSORBER - The following are drawings in imperial and metric for a corner slot resonator for low-mid absorption. It consists of a MDF box with varying slats on the front installed with varying gaps. The variables are the depth from the wall, the width of the slats and the width of the gaps between the slats. The box created must be completely sealed to be airtight. The only access to the outer air is via the gaps between the slats.

Aloha 8)

hmm, yeah. but it's Narrow band, right. hmm, still learning...

Aimed at about 450hz down. Thanks for the comments guys - and as a side note don't you all know that looks are 3/4 of the battle? The first thing I always get asked is "do you guys have protools" - this seems to clinch 95% of the work I get. I can say, totally honestly "yes it is" as I look across at the $500MBOX in the corner, still in it's box, that never gets turned on. Perception is everything in this game. "Maximum illusion - Minimum Voltage" -(Mixing with your Mind) JohnG

Aloha John, Looking good! :D Aloha 8)

Another slat wall in the live room - needs edge boards to tidy up some small gaps around the top and sides but it's just about done: It's amazing how small this room looks in these photos - that slat is 7feet wide but looks half that!!

A few more snaps of the live room walls finished with timber mouldings. I have one wall left to do then the floor needs to be varnished and some clouds hung along the ceiling and it's just about done!!

A long overdue update: (1) The control room cloth covered front wall with trimmed power outlet hole (2) The control / live room window and wall finished, trimmed and painted. (3) The rack you guys helped with (Argosy knock off) made from stained MDF. Wiring is done tomorrow, carpet on Friday, gear in this weekend. A few traps and panels to do but its getting there!!

That cloth covered wall looks absolutely stunning john! (same as all the other stuff.. looks like you've got a great eye for (design) detail) Did any tests (sound) already?

No real tests yet except a gtar amp cranked up inside to test rough isolation - nothing to scientific but for me its no biggie anyway as its mainly for personal use anyway Wiring is getting done as I type and the carpet layer comes on Friday. JohnG

Hey, that's lookin' GREAT John! Got some questions for ya... 1.) What kind of wood is it that you're using on the absorbers? 2.)How long do you estimate it will be until you're finished? 3.)What was your ORIGINAL estimated finish date??? Thanx!

Hi There, (1) All the wood is New Zealand Radiata Pine - It availiable in the US and Lowes and Home Depot. I work for a sawmilling company and this is what we cut and make. (2) The wiring was done yesterday and the carpet is down in the control room tomorrow. I have some bass traps and ceiling panels to do and I need to laquer the live room floor but I have a vocal session booked in for next week. (2) I was hoping to be done late last year JG

Well only really some cosmetic stuff to do like varnishing the floor and hanging some acoustic treatment and bass traps. Heres the latest snap of the gear all installed and the lights flashing. Carpet is down, wiring and all gear connected, door handles done etc since last time. Heaps more photo's at www.peelproductions.net.nz Thanks JohnG

Hi John, Sorry for hijacking here, I really need help to finish up my walls, but apparently there's no reply. My thread is here: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7183 Anyway, if you could, can you tell me how did you finish up your walls (note the red circle from your pictures) Thanks so much!

No problem, What you are seeing is what we call down under "flameguard" or "Canite". Its that soft white faced board you stick drawing pins into. What you do is cut it to the gap size in the window or door with a craft knife or small saw and then wrap it in cloth - I used black - and staple the cloth downon the back. Then just glue it into the gaps. Hope that answers your questions JohnG

Thanks for the tips mate! do you think it can be substituted by something like "cork" I noticed something similar between the two wood strips on the floor part of your door frame.. do you forsee any issues if your client (with small legs) or ladies with high-heels were to step on it? Thanks & Regards, [Charles]

updated website with some recent pictures including drums and a drum riser I made. www.peelproductions.net.nz Enjoy JG

Looking great John! Nice job! So, how does it sound???

Sounds great - I need to put up a bit more absorbtion in the live and control room but mixes are coming out pretty true. JG

Off the Hook, thats all i can say Man. Well Done.