Sorry, Mike I meant from the OUTSIDE... Steve
Studio Design for a 28' by 22' garage
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 3463.
Sorry Steve, Ill snap those tomorrow.
As I'm planning my eave seal, I'm begining to look at whats next. I scrolled through Keiths post checking out his beef up, but hes doing so many layers, I dont think his methods really apply to me much.
Now just to remind all, I am not beefing old garage stucco, for it is thick enough, but the 4' extension is new style stucco with the foam insulation and less stucco. Its obviously lighter than the old stuff. My last conversation with steve it was concluded I should do 1 layer beefup, I think... So I guess Id like some feedback there once more. Should i do 2? If I do 2 should I add green glue? Can I use green glue on the paper and do 1 layer? Has there been a "best" attaching plan through all the deliberation on keiths post?(I know Im lazy, but Ill read up, just fishing for some cliff notes until I can get through it all.)
The extention borders the control room front, and port of the iso booth/entry way. Im just trying to keep it close to the rest of the garage, I guess.
Oh, I seem to remember reading that drywall should ONLY touch paper, not metal or stucco. The bottom of my 4' extention has flashing over the paper. Its about 2" high. Do I need to cover this metal with more paper before letting beef up drywall go in, so it doesnt touch the bare metal?
If you're only going to use one layer, and since the area isn't too large, perhaps you should consider using one of these products (all similar/competing, just different names):
- Hardibacker® (by James Hardie)
- WonderBoard (by Custom Building Products)
- Durock (by USG Corporation)
Veto at will. ;-)one layer of that should be approximately equivalent to maybe 1-1/2 thicknesses of 5/8 gypsum. (source)
Ya that sounds fine, got any ideas which one ? I'm assuming one layer is much simpler to add than multiple layers, so would this be better, cheaper and/or easier than 2 layers added? Best method? The flashing issue is a thin strip at the bottom that I know can be covered. I remember little tid bits of stuff that ring in my head. I just need to know if the drywall ( or heavier substitute) should or can come in direct contact with metal. I just seem to remember reading that metal and concrete are no-no's, and Im to literal to understand if this pertains to thin strips too. using Beat detective on a crap drummer , not to klik and at a estimated tempo with altering straight sixteenth feel and shuffled sixteenth feel, on a shitty song, is funner than reading some of this monotinous, boring crap. AND THERES ALWAYS MORE!!!!! gotta love it..If you're only going to use one layer, and since the area isn't too large, perhaps you should consider using one of these products (all similar/competing, just different names):etc....
Coke, Pepsi, RC -- they're all colas under different names. Take your pick. Your friendly neighborhood building supply or brother-in-law in the construction biz can probably only get their hands on one of those brands, so go with whatever you can find.
I'm pretty sure there's no problem putting the cementeous fiber board (i.e., those three products linked above) against paper and a metal flashing.
I don't think this stuff will be cheaper than drywall -- quite the opposite. But, I think it's money well spent.
--Keith :mrgreen:
cool, i think I will do that then. that is, use one of these 1 1/2 times as heavy, waterproof boards. But just to clear my mind, was I crazy about the metal concern with normal drywall true?
Is the wonder boards better than 2 layers?
I don't think it's better than 2 layers iso-wise.
Please don't hate me if you don't enjoy the experience -- them things are very heavy! :?
Some timely advice on StudioTips about fastening Durock.
In your case you'll probably just do cleats and glue, and maybe some screws into what I assume is OSB.
First, sheet rock is ALREADY covered with paper; not sure where you heard that...
Second, if you use the cement board for beef up against stucco, I would fill any areas around each perimeter that are larger than about 1/8" with the concrete version of Fixall - this will maintain similar mass around edges of the inserts.
http://www.azpartsmaster.com/shopazp/Co ... +(CBP33180).html
Look for this at your local Homely Despot, it's available usually in anything from a 4 pound box to 25 pound bags, probably even 100 pounders if you're insane :?
OK I looked at wonderboard and hardibacker and I liked hardibacker because it seems easier to work with. Id use 1/2" and one layer? 1/2" is the thickest, and one layer will do I hope.
So, can I cut this like drywall, or at least easier than wonderboard? thats why I think its easier, so if im wrong?
I would glue(?) it to the paper and then caulk edges (do cement fix all like steve said for hardibacker?) Then place 1x2 cleats in place, screw them in with 1.5" screws straight(?) into stud, or angled. Caulk new edges and done(?)
soung good
what glue?
Should I green glue 2 pieces together beforehand and do this same procedure for 2 layers?
If I have some gaps between stucco,flashing/cement foundation, and what would be an adequate sealant for those gaps. Indoor/outdoor silicone or something different?
Be sure and read the warnings on Hardiboard. If I'm not mistaken, if you cut or drill it, the dust is a health hazzard. You'll have to wear eye protection and a respirator.
len
wow that dont sound easy at all..
well, is it easy to cut wonderboard or durrock(theusg stuff, sorry bad spelling)
or is green sheetrock ok to use on this 1 and1/2 inch strip of metal flashing that is exposed. I still dont know if this is a big concern or if covering with a thin strip of paper wouldnt just do it or nail/screw a piece of PT 2x4. over strip and start dryall beef up from there up
if this exposed metal is bad, is it hurting the studs?
Hey Mike -- come out, come out, wherever you are!
Hey, I just noticed on your profile that you just celebrated one year on the forum! Happy Anniversary!
Now get that darned studio of yours going! :lol:
--Keith :mrgreen:
:?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:
I just heard from Mike -- he's been flying under the radar for a while, but hopefully he'll pop onto this thread and post something soon! :)
Hello all,
Sorry I've been away, but I am here again. And like a relative after you win the lottery, I want something. I have been searching for my insulation and R-13 isnt available in unfaced around here so far. Can I use R-19 on a 2x4 walls. Keep in mind I have a 12" airspace with 2x6(new) on one side and 2x4(outer wall) on the other. The unfaced is for the unvented conditions.
I would think that unfaced R-13 is available, just that you're not looking hard enough. ;-)
Not sure if R-19 would be too compressed or not.
Is AMS in Sacramento too far for you?
I noticed that the home depot pro in my area has a lot more variety of insulation than my regular home depot -- particularly that they have more unfaced stuff. but i don't remember the specifics.
so what is that, 12 inches of insulation in a 10 inch airspace, or what are the specifics?
Ok shurewood your right. I found it at AMS, but then I just found some in Modesto at Goldstar insulation. For much cheaper.
Hi Dan.
Hi Mike, good to see you ... i was worried you might have given up :lol:
By the way i was watching a Modern Marvels on the Chunnel and they used that spray-on concrete in part of the tunnel to reinforce it temporarily. i think it even had a name like spray-crete or something. anyway, i thought of you.
Folks, should I let that go? Or should I get even with mikekluelesster? :twisted:Ok shurewood . . .
Hey, oldtimers -- remember this guy?
Well, I had the pleasure of hanging with Mike yesterday backstage (and even onstage! Woo-hoo! :twisted:) as he performed with Smash Mouth (one of the many "lives" he lives) right here in Sacramento, just four miles from my house! 8)
I took lots of pictures, but here are some highlights:
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.sharward.com/photos/albums/2007-06-16_smash_mouth/normal_Smashmouth_007.jpg
Mike posing between songs
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.sharward.com/photos/albums/2007-06-16_smash_mouth/normal_Smashmouth_019.jpg
Mike going nuts
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.sharward.com/photos/albums/2007-06-16_smash_mouth/normal_Smashmouth_037.jpg
Percussion (Mark Cervantes), Drums (Jason Sutter), and Keyboard (Michael Klooster)
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.sharward.com/photos/albums/2007-06-16_smash_mouth/normal_Smashmouth_040.jpg
Guitar (Greg Camp), Vocals (Steve Harwell), and Bass (Paul DeLisle)
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.sharward.com/photos/albums/2007-06-16_smash_mouth/normal_Smashmouth_035.jpg
Hmmm... It seems a few people have heard of Smash Mouth. ;-)
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.sharward.com/photos/albums/2007-06-16_smash_mouth/normal_Smashmouth_045.jpg
Mike being a great daddy with his son, Cosmo
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.sharward.com/photos/albums/2007-06-16_smash_mouth/normal_Smashmouth_048.jpg
From left: Mrs. Sharward, me, Cosmo, Mike, and Fred (my friend from work)- http://myspace-257.vo.llnwd.net/02038/75/25/2038235257_thumb1.jpg
Walking On the Sun - from stage right, with lots of female fans plucked from the audience
http://myspace-744.vo.llnwd.net/02038/44/75/2038235744_thumb1.jpg
I'm a Believer - from the audience, good sound quality
http://myspace-175.vo.llnwd.net/02038/57/16/2038236175_thumb1.jpg
All Star - last song of the set, from the audience, good sound quality