Hey, does anybody have any advice about how far off the corner I should mount my door? ...is it ideal to center it in the wall in which it's mounted (when possible), so the corners can be treated effectively?
Thanks.
Looking for some insight regarding my garage build...
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 21628.
Depending on the use of the room, you'd want it at least 24" from the corner, 36" would be better, and centered would be excellent.
However, do also take into account traffic paths: you don't want doors opening directly into places where people are walking regularly, or where it is likely you'll have gear, instruments, mic stands, speakers, cables, furniture, etc. in the way. Also, don't put doors at first reflection points in a control room if you can avoid it, as that makes it harder to treat, and also don't put them where you need windows for good sight-lines into other rooms... unless you also plan to have glass in the door.
Lots of stuff to take into account with studio design! Even for something as simple as where to put a door...:)
- Stuart -
Great, Stuart, many thanks for the super quick reply!!
...so yes, I thought I had the design locked down pretty well, regarding traffic paths, gear, etc., but this one oversight (door in the corner) will in fact change much of my originally intended plan, unfortunately; I was looking to build a booth right outside of my main LR, thus why I wanted to put my door in that corner, but moving it inward will hinder that option...
Well, back to the ol' drawing board. :cop:
Appreciate your time!
-Chris
I moved the door frame out of the corner, hopefully everything's looking good now.
Much better! :thu:
You still need to add those extra noggins, though...
- Stuart -
Sweet!...I'm sure glad that you brought up the door issue before I went Rambo on it, haha! 8)Much better! :thu: You still need to add those extra noggins, though...
On first read, I misunderstood what you meant here (which you couldn't have described much better, sometimes, I'm just stupid), but now I think I actually get it; install multiple noggins (5ish) vertically in the first two stud bays (L & R) where the door frame will mount to, and then in the second bays (L & R) from the door, do the same, with less nog's (3ish), but stagger them as much as possible, so they are not too close in line with the blocking in the first bays. Easy enough. ...Stuart, when you mentioned that you sometimes use a 2x6" along the inner studs, is that in tandem with the noggins, for the maximum anti-twist factor? My door is a tank on hinges, so I'd definitely rather go for the gusto. As always, thank you doesn't say enough! -Chris...but first you need to complete the framing around your door. Studio doors are massive, and heavy. So when you swing it open, there's a huge amount of stress and tension placed on the framing. It needs to be beefy... if not, the framing can bend, sag, twist, or otherwise warp slightly over time, and your door will end up binding, and not sealing properly. Place noggins at 24" or even 16" intervals up the stud bays to each side in the first bay, then half that spacing, staggered, in the second bay. If your door is excessively heavy, then I have been known to put a 2x6 flat across the inner faces of the studs, facing the cavity, if there's enough gap to do that.... - Stuart -
...and I may as well ask, again, just to confirm it's correct, since it doesn't really make much sense to me; for my first layer of drywall on my outer leaf, I simply screw it to the studs like any other job, right (no adhesives, cleats, etc.)?
...and once that layer is up, ideally, I'll then Green Glue the next layer of drywall to the first (w/seams staggered), and again, screw through the first layer of drywall and into the studs, just like I did with the first layer, but with Green Glue this time, correct? I'll assume the same approach for my inner leaf walls also...I believe that Greg gave me his blessing with this, just looking to confirm before I commit.
The question that eludes my understanding here is weather or not the green glue will actually offer any extra benefit, since the two layers won't act independent of one another; I do recognize the value of the GG's low frequency heat dissipation characteristics, and I imagine that is the main, if not only, real world benefit here?. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
:horse:
Exactly! Yes, that is indeed, the correct way to use Green Glue.for my first layer of drywall on my outer leaf, I simply screw it to the studs like any other job, right (no adhesives, cleats, etc.)? ...and once that layer is up, ideally, I'll then Green Glue the next layer of drywall to the first (w/seams staggered), and again, screw through the first layer of drywall and into the studs, just like I did with the first layer, but with Green Glue this time, correct?
Most definitely! See their website and the rather large section of technical testing they have had done on walls built with their product, at independent acoustic testing labs. It is quite well documented.The question that eludes my understanding here is weather or not the green glue will actually offer any extra benefit,
Why not? I don't understand your doubt here. You have two layers of drywall, separated by a visco-elastic polymer: why are you concerned that this could prevent them from acting independently? That's actually the point here: they layers do still act independently, and are able to flex and slide past each other as the waves cause the surfaces to vibrate in different manners. The Green Glue compound acts on that independent movement, damping it, as well as damping other vibrations that involve both surfaces together. If you were to use construction glue, for example, or any other type of glue other than Green Glue, then the layers would NOT be able to act independently, and that's a different acoustic scenario. In that case, they would act as one single, solid mass, and therefore the coincidence dip would move down to a lower frequency.since the two layers won't act independent of one another;
... and it achieves that precisely BECAUSE the two layers remain independent! That's how constrained layer damping works! You have a damping material that is constrained between two layers of building materials, that are otherwise free to vibrate independently. The relative motion between those two layers is damped by the CLD, and converted into low grade heat. That's how CLD's work. But this is not just a low-frequency issue: it also works at higher frequencies. For example, at the coincidence dip, where the bending wave is causing both layers to follow the same vibratory motion as a single unit, the motion of that wave across the surface of the leaf still causes some relative motion between the layers (thin about it....), and the CLD still acts to damp that. Thus, a wall with GG shows improvement in isolation at low frequencies as well as in the mid range, where the coincidence dip occurs. And therefore, it improves overall isolation across the entire spectrum. - Stuart -I do recognize the value of the GG's low frequency heat dissipation characteristics, and I imagine that is the main, if not only, real world benefit here?
Ok, great, thanks for the assurance. :mrgreen:Exactly! Yes, that is indeed, the correct way to use Green Glue.
The question that eludes my understanding here is weather or not the green glue will actually offer any extra benefit,
I should've used different wording here, as I meant to convey an incorrect understanding that screws may somehow negate the value of the Green Glue, and I was just curious if it would be wasteful or not, in my configuration, to which I fully recognize it is not..."is there any extra benefit?" Hahaha.. :oops:Most definitely! See their website and the rather large section of technical testing they have had done on walls built with their product, at independent acoustic testing labs. It is quite well documented.
since the two layers won't act independent of one another;
I've always said that the best teachers can paint a picture well. 8)Why not? I don't understand your doubt here. You have two layers of drywall, separated by a visco-elastic polymer: why are you concerned that this could prevent them from acting independently? That's actually the point here: they layers do still act independently, and are able to flex and slide past each other as the waves cause the surfaces to vibrate in different manners. The Green Glue compound acts on that independent movement, damping it, as well as damping other vibrations that involve both surfaces together. If you were to use construction glue, for example, or any other type of glue other than Green Glue, then the layers would NOT be able to act independently, and that's a different acoustic scenario. In that case, they would act as one single, solid mass, and therefore the coincidence dip would move down to a lower frequency.
I do recognize the value of the GG's low frequency heat dissipation characteristics, and I imagine that is the main, if not only, real world benefit here?
I'm clearly still in cleat mode, haha, again, I visualized each screwed layer as NOT being independent. Noted. Many thanks!!... and it achieves that precisely BECAUSE the two layers remain independent! That's how constrained layer damping works! You have a damping material that is constrained between two layers of building materials, that are otherwise free to vibrate independently. The relative motion between those two layers is damped by the CLD, and converted into low grade heat. That's how CLD's work. But this is not just a low-frequency issue: it also works at higher frequencies. For example, at the coincidence dip, where the bending wave is causing both layers to follow the same vibratory motion as a single unit, the motion of that wave across the surface of the leaf still causes some relative motion between the layers (thin about it....), and the CLD still acts to damp that. Thus, a wall with GG shows improvement in isolation at low frequencies as well as in the mid range, where the coincidence dip occurs. And therefore, it improves overall isolation across the entire spectrum. - Stuart -
Like a drum head that is anchored down very tightly around the entire perimeter, the skin still vibrates back and forth. So between every drywall screw, there is the ability for resonance. Yes, a piece of drywall anchored between studs with cleats and sealant WILL have the ability to really resonant, we have to remember that typically between these studs/joists, there is usually way less than 24". So, between drywall screws, there isn't much of a difference in the amount of drywall able to flex/resonate. GregI'm clearly still in cleat mode, haha, again, I visualized each screwed layer as NOT being independent. Noted.
Noggins: This is what I mean....
The NOGGINS run HORIZONTALLY, between studs. They are SPACED vertically at smaller-than-normal intervals, such as every 12" or 16". There are more of them in the FIRST bay, right next to the door, and fewer in the second bay, further away from the door. Assuming your first layer of sheathing is thick plywood or OSB (or even MDF), then you get excellent structural strength like this, and the doorway should remain square and plumb, with very little movement, sag, twist or other deformation due to the weight of the door moving around as it opens and closes.
Of course, I'm also assuming that the sole plate is firmly bolted to the slab on either side of the doorway, in a couple of places...
- Stuart -
That's a perfect example, Greg, very well illustrated. Another Van Gogh! 8) By the way, I hope that you're doing well, I know you had some sh*tty hoops to jump through recently. Godspeed my friend!Like a drum head that is anchored down very tightly around the entire perimeter, the skin still vibrates back and forth. So between every drywall screw, there is the ability for resonance. Yes, a piece of drywall anchored between studs with cleats and sealant WILL have the ability to really resonant, we have to remember that typically between these studs/joists, there is usually way less than 24". So, between drywall screws, there isn't much of a difference in the amount of drywall able to flex/resonate. GregI'm clearly still in cleat mode, haha, again, I visualized each screwed layer as NOT being independent. Noted.
...now I think I actually get it; install multiple noggins (5ish) vertically in the first two stud bays (L & R) where the door frame will mount to, and then in the second bays (L & R) from the door, do the same, with less nog's (3ish), but stagger them as much as possible, so they are not too close in line with the blocking in the first bays. Easy enough. ...Stuart, when you mentioned that you sometimes use a 2x6" along the inner studs, is that in tandem with the noggins, for the maximum anti-twist factor? My door is a tank on hinges, so I'd definitely rather go for the gusto.Much better! :thu: You still need to add those extra noggins, though...
Those pictures say it all. 8) ...and MDF (1/2" or 3/4" ?) as a first layer (outer leaf/door wall) seems like a brilliant approach, for the anti-twist factor. Great idea! Also, my sole/sill plate is in fact lagged into the concrete at a few key points on both sides of the doorway. It's a great reward when a few 'simple' descriptions provide wholesale clarity, because each time that I get stuck over-thinking something (a good thing, I know), I ask my questions, you chime in, and then I attain the epiphany moment; it's great for my confidence (and sanity), having you guys as a resource/mentor. Hopefully you read that how I mean it, out of sheer respect and appreciation. :D I get genuinely excited each time that my email dings with a John Sayers notification. You guys are the best. Happy weekend!The NOGGINS run HORIZONTALLY, between studs. They are SPACED vertically at smaller-than-normal intervals, such as every 12" or 16". There are more of them in the FIRST bay, right next to the door, and fewer in the second bay, further away from the door. Assuming your first layer of sheathing is thick plywood or OSB (or even MDF), then you get excellent structural strength like this, and the doorway should remain square and plumb, with very little movement, sag, twist or other deformation due to the weight of the door moving around as it opens and closes. Of course, I'm also assuming that the sole plate is firmly bolted to the slab on either side of the doorway, in a couple of places... - Stuart -
*ding*
For doors, on the SketchUp 3D Warehouse, gullfo has kindly uploaded some amazing designs with part descriptions even! Check it out:
Greg
Ding indeed, haha..
Those are some pretty spiffy door models! Nice work gullfo!
...I'm still trying to nail down my Sketchup design, in critical depth, from the outside in, but am definitely finding it to be a slow learning process. There is a "House Builder" extension that looks promising, but I'm apparently to stubborn to have already signed up, downloaded, and begun any new studies with it.
I have, however, found some of your Sketchup tips (Greg) somewhere around here, recommending the basics, such as the learning of layers, groups, entities, and what not, which has helped me get off on the right foot, I think. :blah:
Always, always, always group all the parts of a newly-created object using "Make Component", give it a suitable name, then immediately put it on a "layer". You can group related components together into other components, and put those on a different layer, in a hierarchy. So you could have a layer called "CR: Control Room" that contains all of the components that make up the control room, then have a "lower level" layer called "CR: Studs" and another called "CR: Drywall" and another called "CR: Insulation" and another called "CR: Furniture"... etc. SketchUp does not provide any method for actually organizing layers into hierarchies, so I use carefully crafted names and just arrange them in alphabetic order (which is the only order that SketchUp implements!). You can then create "scenes", which are just camera view points that also allow you to select which layers you want visible or invisible. And by arranging a series of "scenes" with slightly different camera positions and different selections of visible layers, you can create rather sophisticated animated "walk-throughs" and "fly-throughs". It takes a while to figure it all out, but it is well worth the effort. - Stuart -I'm still trying to nail down my Sketchup design, in critical depth, from the outside in, but am definitely finding it to be a slow learning process
I'm baaaaaacckkkk...
What a month, stupid winter....but I am getting a little better with Sketchup, which is a bonus.
So, I'm finally getting back to my L/R build and just realized that I have an obvious issue that exists at a section of my outer leaf, which obviously went undetected till now.
In the attached picture, with the red and green lines, you are looking at two exterior walls and the ceiling to my L/R (outer leaf). On the opposite side of the L/R ceiling (my C/R), I built knee walls about 3' inward, away from the exterior walls of the building (from the red line and to its right). My issue is that the mass of the outer leaf (from the left of the red line to the green) is only 3/4" plywood, which clearly lacks the extra mass of the 1/4" rubber underlay & 3/4 finish planks in the C/R.
Can I simply apply mass at these locations, underneath the subfloor, about 4' out, and then just seal them really well, for example...I'd rather not have to beef up the entire length of each bay, like I did the walls, but it seems a patch isn't quite the same as having the entire mass on the same plane.
Any recommendations? More questions coming soon. Thanks!
Cheers! :mrgreen:
I don't fully follow what you're saying but I hope this answer will clear up your question --> Make sure everywhere has the needed amount of surface density. If only part of your subfloor is lacking the mass, then all you have to do is add the mass where it is lacking. GregIn the attached picture, with the red and green lines, you are looking at two exterior walls and the ceiling to my L/R (outer leaf). On the opposite side of the L/R ceiling (my C/R), I built knee walls about 3' inward, away from the exterior walls of the building (from the red line and to its right). My issue is that the mass of the outer leaf (from the left of the red line to the green) is only 3/4" plywood, which clearly lacks the extra mass of the 1/4" rubber underlay & 3/4 finish planks in the C/R. Can I simply apply mass at these locations, underneath the subfloor, about 4' out, and then just seal them really well, for example...I'd rather not have to beef up the entire length of each bay, like I did the walls, but it seems a patch isn't quite the same as having the entire mass on the same plane.
Hey Greg,
Yes, I certainly over complicated the question.
Basically, there is a section of my LR ceiling/outer leaf that is only 3/4" ply, rather than 1-3/4", because the extra inch of attic flooring terminates about 3' from the exterior walls/outer leaf, as there is a knee wall in the attic...so I visualized that beefing it up from under that shallow area in my L/R wouldn't be ideal, because maybe the new beef material (being on a different material plane?) would only serve as a 'patch' but not a proper application of mass...again, over complicating, if any of that makes sense.
...also, I am getting to the point where I can start building my inner leaf walls, and I have been scratching my head with all of the different approaches I can take to install the ceiling.
Luckily for me, it seems, my stud bays are free and clear of conduit, ducting, braces, etc., which leads me to believe that I am afforded a couple different installation methods for this application.
...so, I am looking to use my outer leaf's 11" ceiling stud bays to house the inner leaf ceiling joists, which I've gathered is a common approach that helps to avoid losing critical ceiling height, however, I haven't seen one single example/picture that portrays the way I plan to do it, which is to simply build the inner leaf walls and add the ceiling joists above them, in between the existing ceiling joists & obviously decoupled entirely; besides not being able to install a rim board around the inner leaf ceiling joists, why wouldn't I simply notch them at the ends and straight-nail and toe-nail them in through the upper sill plates?
The main issue that seems problematic to me is that the notches decrease the joists load carrying ability, which doesn't seem significant with the fairly small span I have to run and the amount of space I have in the bay, which could allow for notched 2x10"s (or 2x8"s), which seems adequate to me. I realize that the lack of rim boards aren't ideal, but I can't really believe that to be the deal breaker with my approach.
...I do enjoy the inside-out ceiling look though, with the joists exposed (under the drywall look)...which would actually match my control room's exposed collar tie look.
It's one way, yes, but as you already discovered, it's complicated, hard to get right, and you run the risk of inadvertently creating flanking paths that you can't even see... On the other hand, doing an "inside out" ceiling will get you greater acoustic ceiling height, better isolation, and is easier to do right, with nothing hidden and less chance of messing it up... :)so, I am looking to use my outer leaf's 11" ceiling stud bays to house the inner leaf ceiling joists, which I've gathered is a common approach that helps to avoid losing critical ceiling height,
Yup! :thu: - Stuart -...I do enjoy the inside-out ceiling look though, with the joists exposed (under the drywall look)...which would actually match my control room's exposed collar tie look.
Hey guys, happy Friday!
I've been reading Rod's book, and have stumbled upon a statement that is conflicting with my thought process; regarding Door Frame Construction, he says, "I'll let you know right now that this is one place I don't worry about maintaining the separation of wall assemblies with the frames, even when using totally separated assemblies...tests have proven that a through jamb does not effectively lessen the total isolation value of a wall assembly to any great degree. So don't worry about any minuscule amount of isolation you may lose."
For me, this statement has serious implications that assuredly conflict with what is routinely preached here at J.Sayers (i.e. a single nail creating a flanking path, for example). Obviously, it gives us noobs a loud warning to make us acknowledge the severity of the situation, and to avoid it when possible, but as a result, I've never even considered tying the two leaves together at the door frame, which certainly would be an ideal option for me, (assuming that it won't drastically compromise my isolation)...I do have a massive studio door w/ magnets, beveled lowering hinges, etc., which hopefully will provide the isolation I need without the need for an extra door. Any thoughts, advice, or recommendations here?
Secondly, I'm close to buttoning up my outer leaf entirely, and I have some rough ideas about my HVAC, lighting, etc., but I can't locate any information that illustrates the best way/location to bring in/run my electrical service (conduit, boxes, etc.)...similar to the 'no door in the corner rule,' would it be ideal for me to route my main conduit service feed through both leaves, somewhere in the middle of whichever wall I choose to penetrate?...or does it matter little, as long as I seal it up heavy and tight?
Thanks in advance, I hope you're all doing well! :D
I have never tested Rod's "single frame for two doors" technique (I always do dual frames, one for each leaf), but it also raised my eyebrows when I first saw that, years ago. Then I got to thinking about, and the probable explanation here, is "mass and rigidity". The framing around doors has to be very substantial in any case (one frame or two frames: Still needs to be massive), just to handle the huge weight of a typical studio door, and even more so for Rod's "superdoor". The frame has to be able to keep the door perfectly vertical at all times: open, closed, or anywhere in between... without sagging, twisting, bending, or otherwise distorting in any way. Normally you have at least studs on each side of the door, plus additional noggins, an over-sized header, and tie-down bolts in the sole plate, close to all that. So there's a LARGE amount of mass, just in the rough framing. Plus the mass of the door frame itself, plus the mass of the doors, which normally have higher surface density than the rest of the wall, to help compensate for the lack of insulation in the cavity, and the simple fact that they are doors.
Both the doors themselves and the frames they hang on are also very rigid, in addition to being very massive. So those are not going to move much. Airborne sound isn't going to have a huge effect on them. Tying them together isn't going to reduce the TL by anything substantial either.
That's my theory, but I don't have any data to back it up. And as I said, I haven't ever tried a "single frame for both leaves" approach, so I can't say much about how effective it is, or isn't.
This is the way I normally suggest for doing that: One single power feed into the room, then distribute it from there. That normally means that you'll need a sub panel inside the room, with breakers for your individual circuits, and possibly also an RCCB or ELCB, if required by code (or just for being smart). All of the actual wiring inside the room is done with surface-mount raceways and fixtures, such as these: ttp://www.calcentron.com/Pages/fram-tra ... aceway.htm http://www.export.legrand.com/EN/dlp-wa ... ng_95.html https://www.electriduct.com/Cable-Raceways.html For the actual cable penetration, here's how I do it when I need high isolation for the room: In words: Use thick PVC or metal conduit, bent in a gentle curve, one in each leaf, well sealed into its penetration hole, and perhaps with a putty pack around the penetration, to beef up the mass a bit. Line up the two pieces of conduit so they face each other but with a gap between them, then wrap that gap with a sheet of very flexible rubber, attached to the conduit with glue and zip-ties. Pull the wiring through in the normal manner. Stuff insulation down the end of the conduit where it comes through the wall, pushed in as far as you can get it, then cap the end of the conduit with abundant caulk. If you don't need very high isolation, then you can probably skip the "gap and rubber" part. However, do check your local electrical code to see if that is allowed. Where I live, it is compulsory to use conduit in walls for power feeds, and flexible couplings are allowed, but there might be some quirks in your local code that messes up this plan. The conduit also just makes it so much easier in the future, if you need to replace the wiring or run additional wiring. You can pry off the caulk, fish out the insulation plug, then the conduit is open for business again. There's probably other techniques too, but that's what I do. Of course, if you don't have a slab yet and will pour one, then just embed the conduit in the concrete! One word to the wise, here: make your bends GENTLE! Don't get tight elbows, or you'll never be able to pull heavy wiring through. Use wide radius curves... - Stuart -but I can't locate any information that illustrates the best way/location to bring in/run my electrical service (conduit, boxes, etc.)...
Hey Stuart, thanks for the advice/references!
I still have very much to do, but am feeling really good about where I currently stand, and I can't give you (and Greg) enough praise for the time you have given me, to help guide me through my build. 8)
Damn, I was hoping you'd say something like, "yes, that framing method has been overly tested, tried and true, and because you have a high quality, massive studio door, of course you should go about it that way, so you don't have to buy/make another inner leaf door." Hahaha, in a perfect world, pigeons also sh*t gold.I have never tested Rod's "single frame for two doors" technique (I always do dual frames, one for each leaf), but it also raised my eyebrows when I first saw that, years ago.
I have visualized this to be the case, but the obvious issue with flanking (a term I understand, but know little in regard of what to expect in the form of a measurement) has encouraged me to utilize a truly decoupled system; I now, with the above statement in mind, think I will in fact opt for the single door/tied leaf construction at the frame...and if it (bad isolation) becomes a nuisance in the future, it wouldn't be entirely frustrating to add an inner leaf door after the fact. :thu: -Electric/Conduit-Both the doors themselves and the frames they hang on are also very rigid, in addition to being very massive. So those are not going to move much. Airborne sound isn't going to have a huge effect on them. Tying them together isn't going to reduce the TL by anything substantial either.
I'm going to have to get crafty here, as my garage breaker box is in my LR outer leaf wall (between leaves & in the air cavity), so I'll probably need to install a small door for access to it, unfortunately. :evil: ...but great, I recognize the electrical approach illustrated and will be getting to it soon. :mrgreen:This is the way I normally suggest for doing that: One single power feed into the room, then distribute it from there. That normally means that you'll need a sub panel inside the room, with breakers for your individual circuits, and possibly also an RCCB or ELCB, if required by code (or just for being smart). All of the actual wiring inside the room is done with surface-mount raceways and fixtures, such as these: ttp://www.calcentron.com/Pages/fram-tra ... aceway.htm http://www.export.legrand.com/EN/dlp-wa ... ng_95.html https://www.electriduct.com/Cable-Raceways.html
Nice, this is actually what I was thinking I'd end up doing; my 'acoustical' intuition is finally developing. What a great feeling....Use thick PVC or metal conduit, bent in a gentle curve, one in each leaf, well sealed into its penetration hole, and perhaps with a putty pack around the penetration, to beef up the mass a bit. Line up the two pieces of conduit so they face each other but with a gap between them, then wrap that gap with a sheet of very flexible rubber, attached to the conduit with glue and zip-ties. Pull the wiring through in the normal manner. Stuff insulation down the end of the conduit where it comes through the wall, pushed in as far as you can get it, then cap the end of the conduit with abundant caulk.
Oh yea, Stuart, I've played the ol' tight bend wire pull game before, and yes, it sucks bad. Noted. You're the best, my friend, many thanks! Enjoy the weekend! :inn:One word to the wise, here: make your bends GENTLE! Don't get tight elbows, or you'll never be able to pull heavy wiring through. Use wide radius curves.
:thu:
- Stuart -
Happy Sunday, long lost friends, it’s been awhile, I hope you’re all doing as well as can be, in this crazy Covid world!
Anyhow, I’m looking to get back to it. I have my outer leaf air tight, have designed a system for my air needs, and am about to get to laying out the conduit for the electric/audio. I’m finally beginning to feel good about this room.
So, I am still a little lost on the inside-out ceiling. I thought there was a link in this thread, but I can’t seem to find it.
If there is a solid picture process of this approach in action, can you please help me find it? Expanding on this, if I do the inside-out ceiling, is it common to pink fluffyglass the Live Room INTERIOR ceiling bays and burlap, or rock wool and burlap? I’m so close, it’s really starting to eat at me, haha! As always, thanks in advance! I hope you’re all well. Cheers!It's one way, yes, but as you already discovered, it's complicated, hard to get right, and you run the risk of inadvertently creating flanking paths that you can't even see... On the other hand, doing an "inside out" ceiling will get you greater acoustic ceiling height, better isolation, and is easier to do right, with nothing hidden and less chance of messing it up... :)so, I am looking to use my outer leaf's 11" ceiling stud bays to house the inner leaf ceiling joists, which I've gathered is a common approach that helps to avoid losing critical ceiling height,Yup! :thu: - Stuart -...I do enjoy the inside-out ceiling look though, with the joists exposed (under the drywall look)...which would actually match my control room's exposed collar tie look.