New (Small Home Studio) Build, Norway

Started with my small ventilation system. Remains finishing the exhaust outlet and building the inspection hatch. Electrical has been pulled but will be connected along with the rest of the electrical in the room when the time comes.

Outlet air finished. Started on closing the ceiling.

Mounted first ceiling panels

Awesome, have you made some progress lately? I'd love to see some more pics.

New update. Finished mounting the ceiling panel. Started on the drum riser ("drum riser" method, that both Glenn and Rod suggest).

Rain wrote:

Awesome, have you made some progress lately? I'd love to see some more pics.

I will try to post as regularly as i can :)... Im getting good progress now and will start on the door and window installation after the drum riser is finished

studioNorWay wrote:

Rain wrote:

Awesome, have you made some progress lately? I'd love to see some more pics.

I will try to post as regularly as i can :)... Im getting good progress now and will start on the door and window installation after the drum riser is finished

How to make the room riser? 1 layer of OC 703 with three ply of MDF?

cgomez_blacksun wrote:

studioNorWay wrote:

Rain wrote:

Awesome, have you made some progress lately? I'd love to see some more pics.

I will try to post as regularly as i can :)... Im getting good progress now and will start on the door and window installation after the drum riser is finished

How to make the room riser? 1 layer of OC 703 with three ply of MDF?

I am not an expert on drum riser so the description below is just what I went for. It will have to be up to the experts to explain the best option. My drum riser was made to prevent for the impact noise made for my guitar amplifiers. My drum riser is resting on my original concrete flooring. I made a frame resting freely with space around the walls for calc. I did not use OC703 but Rockwool. Also I finished it of with two layers of 22 mm chipboards (screwed-glued). I will finish of the floor with Linoleum.

Glenn posted these images of his design for a drum riser, several years ago. I haven't come across a better design yet! It's self explanatory. And this photo: - Stuart -

Soundman2020 wrote:

Glenn posted these images of his design for a drum riser, several years ago. I haven't come across a better design yet! - Stuart -

I see now that I have misunderstood the whole concept of Glens drum riser design. Yes, It's self explanatory. I will have to redo mine as you have mention above. Thanks Stuart for clarifying this for us.

The important thing with Glenn's design is that the ONLY part that touches the floor, is the insulation. The entire platform rests only on insulation. The wood skirt around the edges does not touch the floor: it's only there for cosmetic reasons: to hide the edges of the wood and insulation. But there's a half inch gap between the bottom edge of that skirt, and the floor. - Stuart -

Soundman2020 wrote:

The important thing with Glenn's design is that the ONLY part that touches the floor, is the insulation. The entire platform rests only on insulation. The wood skirt around the edges does not touch the floor: it's only there for cosmetic reasons: to hide the edges of the wood and insulation. But there's a half inch gap between the bottom edge of that skirt, and the floor. - Stuart -

Thanks Stuart for clarifying. Some questions though. I don’t know how to get 703 in Norway. Will 22mm 0.787 inch Rockwool boards work?

studioNorWay wrote:

Soundman2020 wrote:

The important thing with Glenn's design is that the ONLY part that touches the floor, is the insulation. The entire platform rests only on insulation. The wood skirt around the edges does not touch the floor: it's only there for cosmetic reasons: to hide the edges of the wood and insulation. But there's a half inch gap between the bottom edge of that skirt, and the floor. - Stuart -

Thanks Stuart for clarifying. Some questions though. I don’t know how to get 703 in Norway. Will 22mm 0.787 inch Rockwool boards work?

It seems that the rockwool Rw3 (60kg/m3) is somewhat simulare to oc 703. So 50 mm (2’’) on the floor will work or am I totaly waaaaaaay of here.

I have never tried that myself, but I reckon it should work just fine. - Stuart -

Thanks Stuart. I have ordered all flooring materials. Will arrive in a few weeks or so. Meanwhile Im installing the double doors. Doors are fitted with a roller locking mechanism so I dont need the holes for the door handels. The door will close on push and open if pulled. Finished the frame with foam rod into the cracks (both sides of the door) and then caulk. The inside between the frames will be fitted with cloth covered rockwoll. Still wating for my ordered cloth so this will have to come later. I havent desided what to do on the bottom inside the frame as walking on the cloth will destroy it. Any ideas will be appreciated.

Doors are fitted with a roller locking mechanism so I dont need the holes for the door handels. The door will close on push and open if pulled.

Can you link us to the manufacturer's specs for those hinges? I don't like the idea that you only have 3 hinges per door. For any heavy doors, manufacturers typically recommend at least 4 hinges, even when they're heavy duty models.

I dont need the holes for the door handels.

This is great, but personally I dislike the fact that the handles are on opposite sides of your doors. It will make entering or exiting the room more of a task. It's already annoying having to walk through two doors.

I havent desided what to do on the bottom inside the frame as walking on the cloth will destroy it. Any ideas will be appreciated.

You could just add a strip of wood across the gap, but leave a very small gap. You could fill that gap with backer rod and sealant to prevent debris from going down into the small crack while maintaining the decoupling. Here's a few pictures showing what I mean courtesy of Stuart: Greg

Hi Gregwor. Thanks allot for taking the time to give feedback. I really appresiate it.

Gregwor wrote:

Doors are fitted with a roller locking mechanism so I dont need the holes for the door handels. The door will close on push and open if pulled. Can you link us to the manufacturer's specs for those hinges? I don't like the idea that you only have 3 hinges per door. For any heavy doors, manufacturers typically recommend at least 4 hinges, even when they're heavy duty models.

I’ve attached a picture of the manufacture specification. Each hinge can handle a load of 120 kg. Do you think I should add one more hinge on each door? Each door is not that big; 200 cm (78 inch) height, 80 cm (31 inch) width. The weight of the door is about 80 kg.

Gregwor wrote:

This is great, but personally I dislike the fact that the handles are on opposite sides of your doors. It will make entering or exiting the room more of a task. It's already annoying having to walk through two doors.

I quite agree with you on this point. This was a decision a made due to the fact that the room is so small. From the outside I needed to get the door fully open to get equipment inside the room. At the same time the other door needed to open the other way so it didn’t come in the way of my equipment. See attached photo.

Gregwor wrote:

You could just add a strip of wood across the gap, but leave a very small gap. You could fill that gap with backer rod and sealant to prevent debris from going down into the small crack while maintaining the decoupling. Here's a few pictures showing what I mean courtesy of Stuart:

Not preserved: Site-built-door--BRAUS--109%2B--frames-shimmed-and-squared-2.jpg

Not preserved: Site-built-door--BRAUS--112%2B--inner-door-hung.jpg

Not preserved: Site-built-door--BRAUS--114%2B--both-open-seals-and-gap.jpg

Thanks allot. I will do as specified

I’ve attached a picture of the manufacture specification. Each hinge can handle a load of 120 kg. Do you think I should add one more hinge on each door? Each door is not that big; 200 cm (78 inch) height, 80 cm (31 inch) width. The weight of the door is about 80 kg.

Typically, on overall hinge specs like that, they are assuming you're using 3 hinges. So, I'd guess that 3 of your hinges TOGETHER will handle a door weighing 120 kg. As a final note on this topic, I will point out the fact that when hinges wear out, the door will sag. Sag is normal and accepted for typical entry doors. In a studio where the seals must be perfectly seated, sag is not acceptable. For that reason alone, I would over compensate and add a 4th hinge.

I quite agree with you on this point. This was a decision a made due to the fact that the room is so small. From the outside I needed to get the door fully open to get equipment inside the room. At the same time the other door needed to open the other way so it didn’t come in the way of my equipment. See attached photo.

I totally understand. I just hope it doesn't bother you too much in the future. Greg

Gregwor wrote:

I’ve attached a picture of the manufacture specification. Each hinge can handle a load of 120 kg. Do you think I should add one more hinge on each door? Each door is not that big; 200 cm (78 inch) height, 80 cm (31 inch) width. The weight of the door is about 80 kg.

Typically, on overall hinge specs like that, they are assuming you're using 3 hinges. So, I'd guess that 3 of your hinges TOGETHER will handle a door weighing 120 kg. As a final note on this topic, I will point out the fact that when hinges wear out, the door will sag. Sag is normal and accepted for typical entry doors. In a studio where the seals must be perfectly seated, sag is not acceptable. For that reason alone, I would over compensate and add a 4th hinge.

I quite agree with you on this point. This was a decision a made due to the fact that the room is so small. From the outside I needed to get the door fully open to get equipment inside the room. At the same time the other door needed to open the other way so it didn’t come in the way of my equipment. See attached photo.

I totally understand. I just hope it doesn't bother you too much in the future. Greg

Thanks for clarifying Greg. I have ordered two new hinges.

This weeks update. Started redoing the floor as specified (insulation - 2 layers of MDF - Finishing off with plywood an calc around the edges)

As soon as the flooring is done im going to start insulation walls. I was thinking I will finish of the insulation with plastic. This is to avoid the dust coming from the insulation and on to the equpment. And also ”plastic has the affect of retaining some of the high end (Air) in the room” (ref .John in this blog post: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1742&start=15) Will plastic be a good idea in my case? After the plastic I will finish of the room with cloth FR701. But in this case I need to make a frame for the cloth so that the plastic dosent make “waves” on the fabric. Does anyone have any suggestion on the best way to mount the frames on the wall/ceiling. Any suggestions or comments?

This week’s update. Floor finished, all wall and ceiling frames and joints caulked and isolated. My fabric has finally arrived, electrical will connected and installed at the end of this week and I’m currently looking to find the right kind of glass fo my window. Could I use plex class? Or must I use laminated glassing. Also, how thick must the glass / plex be? So next step will be getting the window installed so I can start doing some testing with the REW acoustic software before moving forward with the treatment. ¨ In regard to the last question i posted on how to install the fabric I will build frames for the walls, wrap the fabric around the frames and mount it on the wall.

I was thinking I will finish of the insulation with plastic. This is to avoid the dust coming from the insulation and on to the equpment

With caulk everywhere, I doubt this is necessary, but it won't hurt to contain the fibres and dust.

And also ”plastic has the affect of retaining some of the high end (Air) in the room”

If you're referring to your walls, yes. For your floor, this won't do anything because your insulation is fully covered up by wood already.

Will plastic be a good idea in my case?

For your floor, I answered above. For your walls, it depends on how you want your room to sound. You have a single room studio, so realistically you should be looking into variable acoustics for at least some of your walls. For your ceiling, maybe, some.

Does anyone have any suggestion on the best way to mount the frames on the wall/ceiling.

Brad nail them. Greg

Hi Greg! Thanks for replying

For your floor, I answered above. For your walls, it depends on how you want your room to sound. You have a single room studio, so realistically you should be looking into variable acoustics for at least some of your walls. For your ceiling, maybe, some.

Yes, i ment the ceiling and the walls. Mostly for keeping the fibers in but also to make sure that the room doesnt sound to dead. I will use platic on the wall and ceiling then do some measurements and treat the rest of the room accordingly (slots, base traps etc.)

Brad nail them.

Thanks, brad nail it is..

This weeks update. Finishing between the two doors.