Hart Voice Overs VO Booth Build

EDITED TO ADD: My goals at this point are to make my booth sound as good as possible for voiceover work given the dimensions. My budget... always a hard one. I'd like to keep the remaining costs under $1500 if possible but I can expand that over time if necessary. It's a pay as you go deal for me so I can order a batch of 703 at the time or whatever but not much more than that at once right now. Once I finish the booth and get some more income coming in the door I want to look at modifying John's bedroom studio plans to fit my main room's needs but that will be a different project and a different thread in the future. I'm putting this info in for archiving and informational purposes right now. I don't have any specific questions in this post (see farther down though) - just about everything I need I've answered in searches here and on other forums. My VO booth construction is basically done: I've uploaded the sketchup file - look about 5 posts down for it. More photos here: http://flickr.com/gp/radiobiz/0L41C9 Construction info: The house is on a concrete slab - one story so the booth sits on the slab. The booth is a closet I've converted - no exterior walls. Sheetrock on wood stud frames. The interior side of the booth walls and ceiling are two layers of 5/8" sheetrock (one run horizontally and one run vertically so the seams intersect at right angles) with approximately 2 tubes of green glue per 4'x8' area as recommended by the manufacturer. The "exterior" side of the walls are whatever the original builder used, probably 1/2" I filled the cavities with insulation. All sheetrock on the first layer is caulked with GE Silicone II to the studs, floor and every seam. On the top layer of sheetrock most seams are silicone but some are Green Glue since I had a little left over. The floor to wall and wall to ceiling joints are caulked with Green Glue on the top layer. On top of that I've got tape plus 3 skim coats of joint compound on the seams as I would do for standard construction. There are two electrical outlets and two wall panels for TRS/XLR jacks and KVM. The panels use conduit inside the walls. One has three 90 degree turns, the other has four. Each end of the conduit is stuffed with scrap foam to help seal it and I've used the silicone caulk to seal up anything I could around all that. Other than the door I think the isolation is pretty well taken care of for my needs. I'm still working on a door design but it's on the backburner since I'm out of money. I have a design in mind for ventilation but again I'm out of money so it will have to wait - without the door it isn't a problem yet anyway, ha ha. The big deal right now is treatment. As the photos show I've just got some Auralex studio foam stuck up willy nilly. I built it - I wanted to put the mic in and see how it sounds - terrible at the moment :D . I'm building some panels to hang in there right now - taking a break and posting this stuff. That's about it for now. Feel free to comment good or bad. I know it's not an ideal space but it's what I had to work with.

Hey, how's the weather in Foley? You really want to make a soft ceiling in this booth. Parallel walls need attention in such a small space, the flutter has to be addressed. But killing it completely may not get you what you want. In any event I would take those things you have on the walls and make certain they are at least placed from waist high to above the mic/head in height. It is too late for this but the Silicone was not the best choice for caulk. You could have gotten acoustically caulk for what you paid for the GE stuff.

Which Exit 4? I bet I drive by you a lot. It's rainy and nasty here today. I wanna go where it's warm! When you say make the ceiling soft are you talking something like a cloud or placing material on the ceiling's sheet rock? That pointed corner is a big problem area too. I've been thinking about trying to turn it into a big trap by hanging a panel from floor to ceiling out in front of it. Maybe put it on hinges so I can get back there if I need to? I dunno, still reading up on that stuff and digesting it all. I've got enough Auralex to cover every inch of the walls and the ceiling if I have to but I'd rather not. Actually, if I was rich I'd call up GK or Ethan over at Real Traps and say make me what I need. But I'm not. So I'm dealing with the foam for now and hopefully I'll make a little change so I can replace it with panels in the future. Good to see another Alabamian on here. Come on down when it warms up. We'll go sailing.

Well it was warm here today until it got rainy and nasty :) Yes a cloud on the ceiling and if that is carpet on the floor, get rid of it as well, it is unpredictable in what part of the frequency range it will affect but highs and mids get lost easily.

xSpace wrote:

highs and mids get lost easily.

NOT what I want. Okay, I've got to put some thought into the floor. Cloud: Good, I've got a sort of template/framework for one out in the garage I've been playing with. Glad to know I was on the right track there.

John that looks AWESOME! One day I hope to build a studio out behind the house for my VO business if I ever get it big enough or if I win the lottery :D . I'm bookmarking that one. I also posted a note on my blog about it. On my plans: I was thinking about an absorber or two like John has in the corners of those plans for my booth - As a proof of concept i've knocked something together out of 2x4's and put in my pointed corner. Seems to help some already. I supposed I should put one in the flat end too. I need to come up with some rockwool or something. A local supplier has started carrying Johns Mansfield stuff. Mental note to self: call them today. For the final (for now) build I was thinking of using a bed sheet I have to cover them. It's breathable and I'm broke. While I'm not expecting to have anybody but me in there I do want to be safe. So if I get some of that spray on fire retardant and put it on the sheet will that suffice for now or do I just need to save up the cash and buy something like Guillford of Maine sells? Another mental note to self: come up with something for the cloud. Another thought on walls: The two long walls are parallel. I was looking at John's small studio plans last night and thinking about building something to help skew that a little bit and add some absorption without taking too much space out of the room. Gotta go find the picture of what I'm thinking about and look at it some more. Cloud: I did find one of his designs for a cloud in this thread: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... f=1&t=5457 Basically that's what I was building but not as nice. Glad I found it. I'm thinking I'll actually have two sections for mine. One that is a rectangle that fits above the "rectangle" portion of the booth (well, with a corner cut off for the corner absorber) and then I can build a smaller frame for the remaining 5 sided section over the pointed end of the booth and attach it. The cloud is going to block the only light fixture so I need to shop around for something I can add into the cloud, or hang around it to light the space. I recall seeing somebody use ropelight and it was cool but I'm not sure that's going to put off enough light. Other light thoughts - I could use the ropelight and put a lamp in. What about some low voltage track lighting in/on the cloud? Need to go research how to do that without it being a fire hazard. I am a SketchUp klutz and have almost no idea how to use it. My brother was kind enough to draw up a SketchUp of my space for me. All dimensions should be accurate within 1/2 inch or so.

Afternoon update: As I mentioned above I've framed out the trap for the pointed corner, and I've started one for the corner of the 66"/44" wall. Now if I could just get my hands on some insulation to put in them. I did some digging around for a local supplier of OC 703, Johns Manville Insul-shield... something. Anything. Argh. Being in a small town sucks sometimes. The closest thing I could find is Owens Corning QuietR Duct Board. That company has Type 800 which is 1 1/2" (38mm) thick and comes in 4 ft by 10 ft sheets. I've got the specs but I don't know what any of this means: I did some searching here on the forum and since I can't find any mention of QuietR I'm assuming it's not an appropriate material. The search continues. I've got two more local places I can try and if that doesn't pan out I guess I'll have to order from someone online. I looked at lighting options while I was out. I like the idea of rope light around the cloud and it's doable as long as I stay away from the LED ones. TOO expensive. Halogen is bad, fluorescent is bad. What about Xenon bulbs? There was a 3 bulb set I saw that I could work into the cloud very nicely. Basically I'm turning this thread into a diary. Did I put it in the wrong section? Should it be moved or should I start over somewhere else? What's the capital of Madagascar? Should I keep my inner thoughts to myself?

"add some absorption without taking too much space out of the room." You could make one (of the two parallel) wall absorbent with your tiles and leave the other a hard surface entirely. The real "tell all" is to record in the booth, measure if possible, and make decisions based on that.

So I'm digging around in John's recording manual and bam, you post. Sound samples - These are how it sounded when I first tested it (before I started posting here): http://www.hartvoiceovers.com/blog/wp-c ... amples.mp3 http://www.hartvoiceovers.com/blog/wp-c ... Booth2.wav Those are dry audio, no processing at all. I'm running a MKH416 mic in a John Hardy M1 pre. TOO much room. After talking to my VO mentors the general feeling is I should deaden the room entirely. Then if it's too uncomfortable to work in I can look at adding some highs back in. I'll post more if anybody's interested after I get the corners and the cloud in. Measurement - I just read one of Knightfly's comments about that actually. I'll try to come up with something -begged borrowed or bought.

One of the things that John's sketch up he posted viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14147 shows is the corner broad band absorption with the slats. This helps to reduce the buildup of unwanted frequencies but preserves some of the highs with the slats. Always a good option. The male voice can hit some low frequencies and can build up quickly in a small booth, so these things have to be considered.

Yeah, I thought that was a great idea too. John (I think that's who drew it) has a sketchup on here somewhere with one of those with the alternating various slats and spacing sizes I wanted to use as a plan. Maybe 1", 2" and 3" slats? Does that ring a bell? I remember reading about it a couple years ago but I can't seem to find it with the search. I'm sure it must be in a sticky somewhere. I'll keep looking. And I'm an idiot. I found it with google instead of the forum search: http://www.johnlsayers.com/HR/index1.htm I think I need to basically start over - I've got so much crap going through my head even I'm getting confused. No idea how anyone else can follow this tangled mess I'm posting. I'm going to order my thoughts and sketch out a plan of attack that makes some semblance of sense based on what I've read and reread yesterday and today. I'll post a summary of where I'm at tonight or tomorrow that might make it easier for you guys and me to follow.

Summary So here's where I'm at: Can't do the cloud without the corner absorbers. Can't do them until I know the final floor height. I need to slow the F down and think this stuff through. So I'm going to go find some reclaimed hardwood to go ahead and do the floor while I try to figure the rest out. While I'm doing that any help you could give on planning would be appreciated. Here's the booth (read the first post for construction details) I've drawn in my idea for placement of 2 corner absorbers. The one in corner A will be John's slat design. I was thinking I'd do a smaller version in corner C. And after I get those built I will finalize and install a cloud. 3 questions for now: 1. Is corner C acceptable for the other one? I'd prefer to leave corner D open for the video monitor but that's not required. 2. Can I make this absorber smaller or does that screw it up? 3. Should it have slats too?

Okay, scratch that drawing. I've been talking with a fellow much more knowledgeable than I and he's done up a a plan for me to get this booth sounding good. I'll post more on that when I have time but I feel confident in his expertise and am proceeding with his suggestions on the bass trap, treating the walls and hanging a cloud. On flooring: I hit a home run today and found some very nice looking laminate and a good quality underlayment/vapor barrier at our Habitat for Humanity store - more than enough to do the booth. It's sitting right here now getting acclimated. Since I see no need to do a floating floor and I've installed hardwood floors before I think installation will be a snap. I'm anxious to get the carpet pulled up and see how the concrete slab looks. Lord I hope it's level and I don't have to smooth it out.

Chances are good that all you will find under the carpet/pad will be sheetrock mud and dust. It would be hard to imagine it could be so irregular as to need leveling, but even small imperfections can be floated over with the adhesive glue you will spread after cleaning up the concrete.

I think so too but with my home's builder you never know, lol. Today's been a good day. I just ordered 5 bags of Johns Manville Insul-Shield from a supplier in Pensacola. We figure 3 to 4 bags to do the booth and some left over for treatment in the "control room" (the bedroom I'm using). Based on the current design the big bass trap in the corner will have 6", the cloud will have 4" and the walls get 2". I've also found a few places to shop around for a door. Since I'm replacing all my Auralex with the insulation I'm going to sell it. I should have some money left over to buy a suitable door and get the framing beefed up. YAY.

Here's the current design: I'm figuring out how to use the calculators but with the 6" trap that far off the corner it should be interesting. I've decided to kill off everything since this booth is only for VO work. If it's too dead we'll deal with adding some highs back in after we get the insulation up. I've got specs for a door/jamb/threshold etc and I'm doing some shopping around for that today seeing if the local shops can work something up that's suitable. The door will also have a 2" panel on it. I'll tear up the carpet today too but that will have to be about it. I'm way behind in my school work and I need to deal with that. It's fun being a 36 year old college student. :lol: UPDATE: I didn't get to the carpet today after all. Too much school work. But did I order a solid wood door with a good frame they're making to fit the non-standard walls and a L.O. type sill. I've got them working it up it so it will be easy to put on the GM trunk seal. I'm pretty stoked about that. Once I explained what it was for they were really helpful in making sure I got what I need. It might even be ready on Monday. I looked at fabric options at lunch time. I'm leaning towards burlap for the cost savings. I'd treat it with a flame retardant. Once upon a time I didn't concern myself with such things but now that I'm a home owner and a father I worry.

Ok, today's flooring day. I'm mostly caught up on school work so I can devote all day to it. More on the door: I ordered a prehung 6'8", 1 3/4" thick 20 minute fire rated door from a local shop yesterday. It's very nice, very heavy, and should have enough mass to do what I need. Well it would be fire rated except for the sill design. It's solid oak and should provide a nice stop and solid seal for the door when closed. Kerfed weather stripping, so as I mentioned it should be pretty easy to beef up the seal with that GM trunk stuff. They are making the jamb to fit my non-standard walls too. Should be a nice tight fit on the walls but with a couple inches around the rough opening left to put insulation in and caulk it up. I'm not sure what the policy on posting vendors here is so I won't unless someone says it's okay. I will say this. This local shop gave me a HECK of a deal on the door. Roughly $200 cheaper than the big box stores quoted for comparable doors and he will most likely have it ready for pickup on Monday. They make their doors in house. Now I think he gave me a discount because the construction company I sometimes work for uses him but his usual prices are still really good. If you're within driving distance of Foley, AL pm me and I'll give you the store and shop manager's name. They also have locations in Mississippi I believe. QUESTION: I've told him to cut one hole for a door handle but after re-reading some in Rod's book I'm questioning that. Here's my thing. I have a 3 year old son and I'm scared to death of putting a commercial door closer on there and having him get hurt by it. So my thinking is that I'll put a knob, or perhaps a deadbolt, on the door and stuff the cavity with as much insulation as I can fit in there and then caulk it up really well. I'd really love some thoughts on this. Should I call him today and tell him not to cut the hole?

Typically a door closer will mount at the top side of a door. Without one, in the event that this door is ever moved by these little hands and is allowed to move all the way to the jamb, due to the weight and mass, it can hurt those fingers (in the worst case) badly. Some people install a pull type handle on the interior of the door and use a barrel throw bolt. Your concern with smaller children is certainly valid so what ever you do, make it out of their reach :) A door knob hole can reduce the isolation ability of doors when you look at all the little things together that can diminish isolation. Still, a typical closet type (none locking) door knob, installed like you mentioned would ease your concern. edit: What are you doing about getting air into this room...anything?

xSpace wrote:

Typically a door closer will mount at the top side of a door. Without one, in the event that this door is ever moved by these little hands and is allowed to move all the way to the jamb, due to the weight and mass, it can hurt those fingers (in the worst case) badly.

Good point, maybe my thinking on that is backwards. I currently have a child gate across the main door into the studio so he can't get in here without parental supervision for now. But he's smart. He's going to figure out how to open that thing sooner or later. Maybe I need to think about putting a keyed lock or a throw bolt up high on the studio door to keep him out of the whole area when I'm not around.

edit: What are you doing about getting air into this room...anything?

Yes, I'm still working on the design and would appreciate any thoughts. If you look at the last picture I posted for reference: My current thinking is to build a plenum box out of MDF and line it with insulation. There's some knaupf stuff at a local store that I think will be suitable if I double the layers. I'll mount it vertically it on the outside of the booth to the right of the door (well left in that view but on the right of the door on the outside wall) in that picture. with the booth side opening on the low end and the room side "air intake" on the high part. That will be a passive air intake SEE DIAGRAM IN NEXT POST Here is a diagram and photo of a similar system I started to build but never installed for my last booth. I wasn't planning on using the flexible duct on the passive side this time though. The active exhaust will have a similar plenum box placed in the attic directly above the booth just to the right of the 6" absorber. I was thinking there will be flexible insulated duct connecting it to a squirrel cage type fan placed several feet away so it sits above another part of the house. I'm still working that out but I suspect I will end up building a platform for it to rest on over my guest bathroom area. I'd probably use some heavy rubber or neoprene "feet" between the platform and the joists to minimize vibration and noise. I haven't found a suitable fan yet so if anybody knows a good one for this project please let me know. Ideally I could put a variable speed control on it and run a switch down into the booth so I could adjust the speed for any fan noise as needed. I made notes on that when I was researching my last booth but I think I've lost them. With this plan fresh air will enter the booth low in the bottom right corner and the air flow will lead to the left and exit out the top left of the usable booth area. I'm not an HVAC expert at all. Is there any issue with bringing air in from the living space and pushing it out into the attic? I figure bathroom exhaust fans do it so I'm okay.

Here's a drawing I threw together in paint real quick that's easier to understand. The thick black things are my plenum boxes.

And the floor is done! I'm pleased with it. Here's what it looked like this morning after I ripped the carpet out: And here it is now: After I took the carpet out I saw that I hadn't done a very good job caulking the sheetrock/subfloor joint so I corrected that mistake. Overall it was a very easy job.

Pleasant surprise, the door was ready today so I picked it up. Here's an iphone photo. Man that beast is heavy. I really shouldn't have moved it by myself but I did. I looked around locally for some trunk seal. Not surprised I can't find any. This is the stuff Rod mentions in his book: GM Type "K" style trunk rubber and that's what I'm going with. So either tomorrow or Monday I'll get the door installed and all sealed up. On the door closer, I was rereading Rod's book while looking up the trunk seal and read what he had to say about it. I've decided Xspace and Rod are right and I was wrong. For safety reasons it needs a door closer.

Cold beer and acoustic design, what could possibly go wrong?

Cold beer and acoustic design, what could possibly go wrong? your acoustic design - I gave you a real one and you ignored it.