Thanks Berner. Are you aware that I'm using a dbl-framed wall? I was under the impression that I should use open-faced insulation, placed against the outside of my Int. wall (yet to be built). I believe I read to fill 50% of the cavity space, between the inner & outer mass. So if I have a 1ft. "Air Spring" then 6" of open-faced insulation against the 4 walls & ceiling. If I have an 8" Spring, 4" of insulation against the wall etc. I'm afraid to have the VB against insulation, however, in fear that moisture will collect within the insulation, creating mildew and problems.. Currently brainstorming about my door situation as well, since the dbl-framed wall makes it a bit tricker. Thankfully, I have a bit of time to read & think before confronting this issue.Arsenic, use paper faced insulation, it helps get your vapor barrier in the correct location. It will also help with keeping the fiber storm down. Staple inside your stud cavity rather than on the face of the studs. This will aid in finding studs when rocking and help prevent fastener failure or "popped" screws. If you have more questions you can PM me.
Jam Room
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 13825.
If you only fill 50% you will be compromising on isolation. Fill your entire cavity, or as near as you can get to filling it completely. A half filled cavity vs. a fully filled cavity can cost you anywhere up to about 8 dB of isolation, depending on how deep it is, etc. That said, it is also important to not stuff too much in. Just enough to fill it, but no m,ore. If you start jamming it in too tight, you will once again compromise isolation, since you could create a flanking path through the insulation itself.I believe I read to fill 50% of the cavity space, between the inner & outer mass.
The entire cavity is the spring, not just the part that is empty air. The insulation is also part of the spring, and is also the damper on the spring. It is a system: you can't really think of it as being separate parts. The masses on each side, the studs, the air, and the insulation are all part of one single system. Change one thing and you change the resonant frequency and the isolation of the entire system. - Stuart -If I have an 8" Spring, 4" of insulation against the wall etc.
Kraft faced insulation is not specifically mentioned for these types of builds. And it really has no alignment feature that aids in the correct installment of a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier is a material that does not let vapor penetrate so the vapor will condense on the barrier and become moisture. The plan is to have a system in place that will be able to extract the wetting of the walls/ceilings and not allow the continued condensation to develop. I understand the want of people to give benefit of their education in the areas that they may have knowledge in. But the bits and pieces need to align. I also recognize I can get things incorrect as quick as the next person. But I try hard to not continue to give bad information after I once have seen that what I am saying may be incorrect. For me, until you can show that somehow you have an understanding of what a vapor barrier actually does, when it is required, where and when to use it and when to accept that maybe what you are saying is incorrect (I say this for me as well) maybe the placement of a vapor barrier or a vapor retarder is not your strong point. But I am thinking that sheet rock is, and this is an area that we can all use some experience in, if you are so inclined to continue with information beneficial to that end.Arsenic, use paper faced insulation, it helps get your vapor barrier in the correct location. It will also help with keeping the fiber storm down. Staple inside your stud cavity rather than on the face of the studs. This will aid in finding studs when rocking and help prevent fastener failure or "popped" screws. If you have more questions you can PM me.
Condensation happens on the warmer side of the wall. The reason for a vapor barrier is to allow this vapor a membrane to condense on, to keep it from penetrating the wall and developing mold or wetting the insulation. You hvac has to be able to extract the moisture from the room(s) which is why it is in high order to have it sized correctly and return air paths are almost always required for each individual room. Probably, if you have a fear of something, you should get in touch with your local builders to make an attempt to understand what it is they would suggest. Still, they will say that the plastic membrane, the vapor barrier, goes to the inside of the room. What they may give you is information on if it is even required in your situation. This can be altered by the exterior siding, what kind of substrate was used under that siding and what kind of drainage plane was installed for that exterior wall. It never gets easy :) BrienI'm afraid to have the VB against insulation, however, in fear that moisture will collect within the insulation, creating mildew and problems.
Arsenic, use unfaced for outer leaf wall then paper faced for inner. So the whole space, filled, not over filled and the last pieces of insulation paper faced with the paper facing you. For reasons above. Your ceiling may not call for a VB but you can use it anyway with the benefits mentioned.
believe it or not, although delayed due to circumstances beyond my control, were still making progress (tho, very slow obviously).
Rather than having an inner and outer wall, I was forced to build a "Super Wall" of sorts. This consists of 2 layers of 5/8" drywall, as well as machine room panels (which i have no idea how to explain). I was forced to hang a flat ceiling also :( i know... Centered are three, 2'x2' drop ceiling lights. The ceiling was framed and drywall hung. However, So far, it is only a single layer of 5/8" drywall. I'll have to add something up there.
The floor is still concrete. The door was installed one day while I was out to work (some things are out of my hands as this is not technically my house :/ ). Its just your basic exterior door.. I figure if we can have a spot to play, it'll be a plus, at this point. I can tighten spots up later.
I'll get out there & snap some photos, when I get the chance.. Just wanted to let ya know, im still alive over here :D
Pictures are perfect...
I'm thinking.. (lookout :p)
I have three 2'x2' "ceiling tile" lights at my disposal. We framed, drywalled & wired the ceiling, appropriately, with this in mind. However, I'm starting to love the idea of LED lighting.. Less heat, more visibility.. Plus, the three openings would no longer be a factor..
I would likely use 2x4's to create something I could simply "fit" into these openings (dropped in). Perhaps the change of mass could even be helpful? I'd drill a hole dead center for fixture wiring, cover the ceiling in whatever absorption material you might recommend, blow in insulation above & call it a day.
I'm also hesitant to "finish" my walls.. I'm going to cover the walls with panels anyways, right? I could run any wiring neatly along the walls and simply use the panels to cover it (fitting the panels neatly around electrical outlets, guitar hangers & maybe a spot here & there for a cork board or dry erase board.)
and then there was Flooring.. I'm considering the constructing of a drum riser, along the back wall. Hardwood up to that and cover the riser in some type of anti-slip material.
With these 2 steps, I'd then be able to move in the equipment & schedule band practice... My door would be the weak point.. I'm not super happy with the idea. However, it could be renovated at a later date, should I decide that an isolation upgrade is necessary.
Thoughts?
edit: ehh.. dont forget Heating/AC, Josh.. My current plan is to use some type of all-in-one unit with a single, small 5" duct.. ehh.. to the thinktank!