Hi Sullen, and welcome!
raising the floor at least 1' from the concrete floor make a wood frame with insulation material in it and the hardwood floor on top, it this will work to stop sound vibrations transferring to the house below?
Nope! Probably not. That would qualify as a "floated floor", and be very hard to get right.
I suggest you read this:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8173
If you want to float your floor, it is possible, but it requires mountains of careful calculations and LOTS of mass to get it right. "Lots" as in several tons. And if you get it wrong, then you make things WORSE than they would have been otherwise, so you waste a lot of time, effort, materials and money, for worse isolation. It is really hard to get it right....
Probably your best bet is to isolate that floor from below: Whatever ceilings you are planning to use underneath it for the house, forget it and install decoupled ceilings. Maybe do something like RSIC clips with hat channel and a couple of layers of drywall underneath, or metal joists on hangers with multilayer drywall, or something similar.
Since you will be shaking the entire shell of the entire house, you might want to consider decoupled
walls down below, too: "room in a room" works both ways. You can also use the same concept on a smaller scale for the rooms in the living area. That would help to eliminate the need for a floated floor above, in the studio. Fortunately, you have the budget to do that!
And what would be the best method for the room within a room case?...
Mass-Air-Mass. Basically, you have two totally separate leaves to that make up your wall: the "outer" leaf which faces the real wold and has to be very massive, and the inner leaf, which is the inner surface of the room itself, and has to be very massive. In between these two massive "leaves" of this wall, you need a large air gap (several inches) filled with insulation (fiberglass or rock wool are excellent). So you have Mass, then Air, then Mass. MAM. More correctly called "MSM", for "Mass-Spring-Mass", which is the principle of Physics on which it is based.
You need totally separate studs for your inner-leaf walls, 24" OC framing (wood or metal. Metal is slightly better, but wood also works great), two or three (or more?) layers of drywall on the inner side of the studs ONLY (you do not want to build a three-leaf wall!). The inner leaf ceiling rests on the inner leaf walls and does not touch the outer leaf at all (neither walls nor roof). There is no mechanical connection AT ALL between the leaves. They are totally decoupled, except for the fact that in your case they have to rest on the same floor (you have no choice there, as you will be on the second floor, unless you correctly float your floor).
Everything must be sealed absolutely hermetically airtight. Double doors (back to back) between rooms (or Rod's "superdoor"). Don't forget to consider HVAC, electrical and cabling now. It's too late to do that later. All glass is thick laminate glass. All doors are thick heavy solid core doors. Everything is very massive, very heavy.
So, seeing that you will be piling a huge amount of mass on top of the second floor, your very first act should be to hire a structural engineer to inspect your current structure, especially the floor, and see if it can take anything like the enormous additional load you are wanting to place on it. We are talking many tons of additional load. Can the existing walls and floor handle that? Probably not. You will need to get the engineer to tell you how to reinforce the existing structure, so that it can support the load.
I'll also buy a copy of Rod's book hehe!
That is the very, very best thing you can do! Also get the "Master Handbook of Acoustics", by Alton Everest. It is the "Bible" of acoustics.
Have you considered the other option? Build the house upstairs, on the second floor, and the studio down below? It would be an awful lot easier, and less expensive!
- Stuart -