studio_drums's 1 Car Garage Conversion thread- FINISHED!!!

Okay, here's the official start of my studio build thread. I'm converting a 11 x 20 garage into a music studio. Here's the before pics. They're self-explanatory. You can see that the concrete pad was sloped on one side and in the middle and I have no choice but to replace it.

Concrete guys are here today. Pad is already broken up and being removed. It had been reinforced with wire and had no cracks, but apparently there wasn't much of a rock base, as it settled over time due to water draining INTO the garage from the outside. I know. Nice.

Here is a basic sketchup file of the room framed out, dimensions are accurate. Getting into the studio is a problem right now. It appears I won't be able to build up against the existing house door. Any ideas? Also, a wall detail.

Concrete was poured on Friday morning. Here are some pics. The slab is 5" thick, 4000 psi mix. The resonant frequency of the slab is well below the threshold of human hearing. Time to get back to worrying about the walls!

I attached 2 more layers of 5/8" drywall to outer walls with green glue in between. It took 6 cases. Ouch! (I still have to do the inner room!) I have now begun framing the inner room.

It's just my opinion here...24" layout, cutting overhead joists, one top plate...you are asking a lot from your structure to support it's own weight plus the weight of more heavier items. Get the few extra studs to get your layout on 16" centers and even if the joists are not going to be up sized to a 2X8 at least place them on a typical overhead 16" center as well. Don't cut yer joists. Drop your wall height before you do that, you need that support overhead more then you may want to consider. Your about to put something in the neighborhood of half a ton +, on the ceiling framing and over your headache not to mention what the walls have + this ceiling. Brien

Thanks man for the reply... I did some more researching on the internet. It seems my ceiling joists will be fine since I am only dealing with a 'dead' load and not a 'live' load. I found some IRC tables here: http://www.ci.auburn.in.us/departments/ ... 0areas.pdf But these are for "floor" joists with a given live load and dead load. I also found this, which is closer to my scenario: http://newstore.southernpine.com/images/ref202.pdf Referring to table 17, Ceiling Joists, For 2x6 24"OC The max span is over 15 feet. So, that gives me a substantial margin for error. With 3 sheets of 5/8 drywall and 2x6's 24" OC I'm looking at less than 10 psf dead load.

Here's the 1st corner of the wall framing

studio_drums wrote:

Thanks man for the reply... I did some more researching on the internet. It seems my ceiling joists will be fine since I am only dealing with a 'dead' load and not a 'live' load. http://newstore.southernpine.com/images/ref202.pdf Referring to table 17, Ceiling Joists, For 2x6 24"OC The max span is over 15 feet. So, that gives me a substantial margin for error. With 3 sheets of 5/8 drywall and 2x6's 24" OC I'm looking at less than 10 psf dead load.

Studio, what species of lumber are you using - SYP would suprise me - and do you know what grade it is? Rod

So you don't think you are building a flimsy structure? That every time you cut a corner you push these members closer to the edge of their expected performance? Brien

Thanks Rod, S.P.F. #2 KD-HT (for both 2x4's and 2x6's) also says "MLB" and "203 NLGA" Spruce-Pine-Fir, correct? It's consistently 5 or so inches less than Southern Pine for joist length I see...so not quite as strong... FYI- joist span will be 9' 5" xspace: I don't know. But Rod will be able to answer that question beyond the shadow of a doubt...we'll see. I'm definitely not cutting corners...(did you see I've used 6 cases of green glue on the outer walls? LOL) I'm just going for maximum isolation- and intending to satisfy the code requirements (IRC 2003) along the way. I appreciate your input, but don't take it personally if I want a second opinion ;)

I'm not working ya boss just asking questions. Rod is "the" man to discuss this with if he desires to do so. But you are missing my point. When you cut those corners, one top plate instead of two, you lose the ability to de-couple that very heavy non-standard ceiling layout from the rest of the structure. Then you add more weight then should be placed overhead in a structurally deficient frame and expect this minimal framing to support a maximum weight. But, I don't know the complete details only what I see here. But you are welcome to another opinion:) Brien

Well, I am certainly not an expert, in fact, I am about as low as you can go on the studio construction food chain, so take my comments with a grain of salt... Your wall detail drawing looks to me like it might be a 3 leaf system rather than a 2 leaf system. I would think that you if you are putting up another wall inside of the garage, you should remove the existing drywall layer rather than beef it up! Your 3 leaves: Outside wall (siding) - - Inside wall (3 layers gypsum) - - inside wall (3 layers gypsum) Like I said, I am not qualified to offer any expert advise, but thought I would at least bring up the issue to see if someone else can clarify. Best of luck with your build out!

Thanks double, Yes, it's a 3-leaf system. It's a compromise I made since there was no rigid surface to attach drywall to (only foam and siding)- the 2 layers of drywall w/green glue are intended to compensate for this. Good news is that in preliminary tests, it seems to be working in that regard. 8)

Hi guys, Well, I'm even lower in the studio construction foodchain, I'm still a foetus :lol: . Sorry about my "humour" :oops: But, to qualify as a "leaf", a wall, or skin, should be airtight, right? I'm thinking that the siding/foam insulation layer, and especially the garage door and entry door would not be airtight. So the 2 layers of drywall and GG will be the only "leaves"... But I couldn't see anything about your window treatment - how will you make it airtight? And will there be another window in your inner wall to bring in some daylight? And how about fresh air? (Sorry if you explained all that before!). Geoff :)

Framing is done- inspection is next Tues (pics forthcoming).

Hey Everyone, I am also seeing a 3 leaf system with the garage door enclosure. As Rod writes in his book "Build It Like the Pro's" "Two leaf walls systems are good- two leaf wall systems are your friend. Three-and four - leaf systems evil devious fiends that suck up the money in your wallet and give you less than nothing in return" I am going to have to enclose a 16' garage door and will be faced with the same issue. I will be using concrete based "hardy plank" siding over layers of thick sheathing which I will leave a gap all the way around for backer rod and acoutic caulk. I will seal under the sill plate with neoprene. Of course this wall will be insulated but the inside will contain no sheetrock. I will build the interior wall next to this "enclosure" open on the back as well with sheetrock layers on the inside (control room). This will be a 2 leaf system.... "mass - air - mass". The extra leaf in the middle can decrease your STC rated by over 20!! That's why Rod's quote needs to be understood loud and clear. I also understand that for the optimal ST isolation between rooms, outside, etc., it is neccessary to tear out existing drywall becuase this creates that dreaded 3rd leaf if you don't. I have a bonus room above my garage (teenage dauthers bedroom), which will also require me to tear out the ceiling drywall as to increase isolation when I build a secondary ceiling creating a 2 leaf ceiling system. I also have to do the same with the wall with windows. I plan on dealing with the windows by adding a secondary window on the inside constructed on laminated glass and secured/sealed to the interior double wall. If anyone sees any holes in the construction plan for my garage opening, please let me know. I will be framing in opening very soon. Dan

You may want to start another thread...replete with pics, etc.

Framing is done- passed inspection- here's some pics:

I have this to look forward to after insulation goes in: That's 60 sheets of 4x10 5/8" kids... (FYI- Steel beam directly underneath, joists running perpendicular)

Cool! Is your electircal also in yet? Dan

Studio Drums, can you elaborate a little bit on what you did to your garage door? Also, what size is your finished space?

Dan Scott wrote:

I am going to have to enclose a 16' garage door and will be faced with the same issue. I will be using concrete based "hardy plank" siding over layers of thick sheathing which I will leave a gap all the way around for backer rod and acoutic caulk. I will seal under the sill plate with neoprene. Of course this wall will be insulated but the inside will contain no sheetrock.

So what will your layers be: garage door - insulation - sheathing - siding? I've got a roll-up door to deal with as well and I'm curious what you've got going on there.

Boomka, I did exactly that. The first layer was a sound fiber board using backer rod and acoustic caulk. Second layer was standard OSB, backer rod/caulk. I will use a concrete based product called Hardy Plank siding for the finish. I also framed a secondary wall inside of this wall with 1" spacing which should provide good isolation. I also got a little creative with some "fake" windows that mounted to the OSB but look like they have blinds behind them. I didn't want to compromise the look of the exterior of my house with a huge blank sided opening seeing that my house is brick. I am posting photos on my thread. http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9584

So you've taken the actual door itself out of the equation and blocked off the remaining opening?