hold my hand for my Window install please!

rod gervais wrote:

It nevder ceases to amaze me the people in the industry who are ignorant about the products they specialize in.

Me too. But the guy said there was no glass in it. So it made me scared to pay all that money for something that might be the wrong thing. I put so much weight on what you say that anything that contradicts it makes me hesitate. It also delays my project which I don't like.

Hey Rod thanks for this post it has made window installation make a lot more sense to me. I have a few questions though. What thickness setting blocks should I use? Do they just go on the bottom or do they go on the top and sides? Does 1/3 bearing locations mean 3 setting blocks spaced evenly across the bottom? What thickness butyl tape do you recommend? My windows are 5'x3' and 3'x3' with 1/2" and 3/4" laminated glass Thanks Lief

Lief, The thickness of the setting blocks I think are determined by keeping the glass off of the frame and level. They need only be placed on the bottom. I think Rod suggested either 1/8 or 3/16th thickness glazing tape in his book, i don't have it in front of me, so i'm trying to pull from memory... As for placement, the way I understand it is to divide the window into thirds (or quarters for larger windows) and that should give you your placement of the setting blocks. so... 3 setting blocks spaced evenly on the bottom makes sense to me... hope yours goes better than mine did~ good luck! kevin

Leif, Kevin pretty much hit the nail on the head: setting blocks at 1/3's would mean a block at 1/3 of the window length - and one at 2/3 the window length. So just 2 blocks for thirds - 3 blocks if supporting at 1/4's...... the width of the blocks should be the thickness of the glass - about 1" long and 1/4" thick. the tape should be 1/8" thick..... blocks go just on the bottom when you caulk you should be neat and clean - you only caulk the thickness of the glass...... tool it off nice afterwards so it's flush with the glass face and make sure it has no air pockets...... the cleanest way to do it would be to use painters tape- tape the glass edge - tape the jamb flush at the face of the glass- then caulk. when you're done caulking - tool the caulk with your finger neatly to the glass face - let any excess caulk ooze off onto the tape. After tooling - wait just a few minutes - and then carefully peal the tape away - leaving a perfect caulk job behind. Let the caulk cure fully before adding your next set of stops. Rod

eruss wrote:

the guy said there was no glass in it.

What a fricken idiot - it is a plastic laminate sandwiched between 2 plates of annealed glass....... how can he say there is no glass in it??????????????? Sounds to me like you need to find a new glass company........ Also sounds to me like he is talking about plexiglass......... what a moron.......... Rod

Thanks guys this thread has corrected a few wrong ideas that I had and I appreciate it.

On a 3/4" x 3/4" window stop, what should the width of the butyl be? I'm guess 1/2"?

it could be 1/4"x3/4" or 1/4"x1/2" should be fine.

gullfo wrote:

it could be 1/4"x3/4" or 1/4"x1/2" should be fine.

Thanks. I got 1/8" thickness x 5/8" width.

That should do it...

Can green glue acoustical sealant be substituted for the butyl caulk? Also, for the neoprene setting blocked. Would open cell neoprene work for this?

Great thread...Is there any risk of out-gassing (off-gassing) with these caulks and sealants? Just concerned that these potential gasses might fog up the windows on the inside (inside the air gap between the 2 panes), where they cannot be reached for cleaning.

( moved post to my own thread : https://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22581 )