basement studio in construction. green glue before or after?

so i have finally started building the studio after stripping the room down. i put up studs along the outer walls, had spray foam all the walls and ceiling. put 10" thick insulation (i know, i know, not the best) in the ceiling and then put my drywall on the ceiling. now, should i do the green glue and next layer of drywall before or after i do my double walls. after all this is done, then i begin to build the actual mixing room and mic booth.

What I am doing (from outside in) is: Outside covering (probably Stucco) then 2 layers of OSB sheeting (Mass) then my 2x6 framing to hold the OSB exterior walls then R-19 unfaced insulation in the 2X6 cavities then my air space (AIR) then my 2X4 framing (24" on center) for inside wall (2nd wall "leaf") and make sure the whole 2nd wall/ceiling assembly is TOTALLY uncoupled from the exterior walls and building then a layer of 5/8" drywall then Green Glue on every sheet then 2nd layer of 5/8" drywall (MASS) then paint on interior wall. If that dosent do it, well then the neighbors will just have to hate me. :lol: :lol: (kidding) but I think that should to the trick. Hope that helps. Have a Merry Christmas and Safe Holiday Season!! AJ

gdaddio wrote:

so i have finally started building the studio after stripping the room down. i put up studs along the outer walls, had spray foam all the walls and ceiling. put 10" thick insulation (i know, i know, not the best) in the ceiling and then put my drywall on the ceiling. now, should i do the green glue and next layer of drywall before or after i do my double walls. after all this is done, then i begin to build the actual mixing room and mic booth.

WHat exactly are you doing? Spray foam really has no place in studio construction...many have done this only to realize they've made the situation more difficult and expensive to achieve their goals. Did you put the studs right up against the outer wall or did you leave some spacing??? Are you sure you've gone over your plans before sinking all this time and money??

gdaddio, I'm not picking on you. Really. But you're asking what you think is a simple question, when in fact your project is much more complicated than that, and just from the small amount you've already shared, it seems you've made a lot of expensive mistakes already. The way I see it, you don't need a simple answer to a simple question. Rather, you need to share extensive details about what you have and what's been done already so that we can help you remediate the situation and try to undo the damage that's been done. :roll: To give you an answer to your A/B question without extracting many more details about your current state of affairs would be irresponsible of us. Please follow all of the rules in the sticky threads and tell us everything we need to know in order to help you. I'm sure you thought you were being considerate by keeping it short, but keeping it short is not your friend right now. We'll never come down on you for being too verbose. ;-) --Keith :mrgreen:

ok, im gonna have to put drawings up later. to make it simple though, lets just say i got a room 23 feet by 15 feet with 7 foot celing in the basement. two walls are concrete and the other 2 border rooms. the walls that border rooms i was gonna double stud, but then realizing if i build a room inside of that it would be a triple leaf, so i might just build the walls to the mix room as the double walls. they would still be touching the ceiling that is gonna be 1/2" drywall,green glue, then 1/2" drywall. then i was thinking about putting green glue on all the walls, this is getting frusterating. if everyone would just be quiet and not move at the house then this would be alot easier. any suggestions. as we speak i just have drywall on the ceiling and the 2 walls that have concrete behind them.

It seems that footfall is your biggest problem that you're trying to solve, yet with only a 7 foot ceiling, you're very limited in your options. I think code calls for 5/8" drywall on ceilings... Although two layers of 1/2" might pass. You'll need to check with your local building department. But the greater concern is the 7 foot ceiling: most codes call for 7' 6" minimum for habitable space. Check with the building department on that before you go further. You're also adding a lot of weight to the joists. How sure are you that they'll handle the extra ~5 psf weight? Ventilation? Is the floor above air tight? Sometimes 3rd leaf can't be avoided. Sometimes it can if you rip the drywall off what would hae been the middle leaf. Pictures are worth 1,000 words. --Keith :mrgreen:

thanks so much for trying to help. not sure if the joists can hold 5 psf, is that two sheets of 1/2" drywall or just one? the ventilation thing i think i got under control. yes the floor above is air tight cause all 4 walls and the ceiling in between joist has sprayfoam which helped ALOT on the creaking of the wood and also the hammer noise from the water pipe. now i cant hear neither, but i do still hear footfall even though its alot fainter and like i said, if i know im gonna be recording then i can tell the house not to walk upstairs over the mic booth. really i guess i only need the mic booth to be soundproof, the mix room i can suffer with a little noise here and there. so how do i figure if the joist can hold the drywall.

It's the third post on the "Safety During Demolition, Construction" thread. Digest the entire thread -- there's lots of good stuff in there to keep you alive and unhurt. --Keith :mrgreen:

ok, that link was a little to technical for me so maybe someone could help on that, do you think 10x2 joist spaced 16 inches spanned about 12 feet would support two 1/2" layers of drywall in a place that doesnt hardly ever get heavy snow. and the furniture upstairs is light.

I'm not going to answer that question, because if I'm wrong, people could die. I hope this doesn't come across as rude or unfriendly (I try hard to be neither), but looking back over this thread, it appears you're not willing to get your brain dirty with the things that are necessary to proceed with safety and success as the outcome. You'll get a lot more support from me and others if you take your own project as seriously as we're trying to. --Keith :mrgreen:

I'm not going to answer that question, because if I'm wrong, people could die.

Got to back Sharward on that and verify he is not being rude. None of us on this forum are qualified to give an answer to that question, let alone try to guess an answer it without seeing it in person or at least a pic. At least get a qualified person like a structural engineer to look at it and give you the numbers to what you can safely add. You'll have both a dead load and a live load for the joists. Dead load = all the parts of structure, and Live load = all the furniture and people that could be above. That fact that "the furniture upstairs is light" has nothing to do with making a decision about what load you can add to the joists. This is a huge safety concern... imagine you just built with out factoring in any loads... 10 years down the road you or a new property owner throws a family party for 20 people and the floor gives out !!! OUCH. If you want to start and guess look for an online "span calculator". Figure in 40 psf for the live load above (OR look up your local code to find out required loads for room type above) AND add up weight of all existing structure and what you plan to add for dead load (requires a search for weight of all materials) THEN add in a safety margin (say 10% to 20% ??)... and you'll end up with a GUESS number that I would NOT trust until you have a PRO check it out. Please let us know how you make out. Marc

Thanks for backing me up on that, Marc. FYI, I think the link he found confusing was the one(s) to the span calculator and the article that taught me almost everything I know (which isn't all that much) about dead loads vs. live loads , etc. Leading to water...... :roll: --Keith :mrgreen: