Lost Studios new construction build Portland Oregon

Well I just had my inspection and it took about 2 minutes Houston we are a go. :arrow: Next pictures :shock: you will see a big ole piece of concrete woo hoo

Congratulations! 8) It's always a great feeling to get the official sign-off from the powers-that-be. I see you got those rebar caps in place! :D Great picture too... In fact, I just added it to my recent post in the "Safety During Demolition, Construction" thread! :twisted: --Keith :mrgreen:

Well no one fell in and we didn't bury the dog either I forgot how much hard work it is to move that much concrete. Took about 3 hours from start to finish and we were tired. The sun stayed behind the small clouds most of the time which made it easier for sure I have the wood being delivered tomorrow and will start framing right away

Those forms are really cool! Kind of like a soft sided pool! 8) Congratulations on the pour. Big milestone!!! :twisted: --Keith :mrgreen:

Tom: Is that some sort of well in one of the pics?.... Hey, it all looks cool; if you don't mind us asking, how much was the concrete in volume, cost per volume, total cost... Is it any 'special' type of concrete (additives, aggregate, etc.)? I suppose you'll be waiting 28 days before building, right? K

The thing that looks like a well is a wash-out, cement truck empties any unused concrete in the hole then washes the troughs in to it. When everything is dry it looks like a huge cow pie. :lol:

The well thing is the start of my pond/waterfall 8) I will keep sending updates of that as I complete it also Kenni, 28 days is full cure for a slab, 7 days is initial cure that can be driven on but I am starting the framing tomorrow...wed. As long as you dont try and cover with floor coverings or overload you can do just about anything on day two. No additives 24 yards in total and $93 per yard so what about $2300 The wood for the exterior walls and t-111 came to $1700 I have to match the house siding per city regs. They are getting a quote together today for the trusses. They actually came out and field measured the slab just to make sure I think it important for all of us to post how much we are spending because when I first started looking at this a year ago I could not find very many dollar values Maybe Steve can make a sticky for all to post their costs I know regions have different materials/costs but for the most part we are talking concrete, stick and dry wall More pictures to come on thursday

TomVan wrote:

I have the wood being delivered tomorrow and will start framing right away . . .

From what I have read, it's best to wait a few days (maybe a week? :roll:) before framing on a newly poured slab. I don't think you have to wait the full "28 days" that is often quoted as the amount of time it takes for curing to the point of being able to withstand the full strength for which the concrete is mixed for. I'm not an expert at this, mind you... So take with a grain of salt, and always verify with a real expert when in doubt. --Keith :mrgreen:

I dont know how they build in Sacramento but here its about 30 days from start to finish for a typical house 3 days before they strip forms and start framing. But up here we do not pour slabs for homes in most cases. Its foundation with post and beam so all your weight is on the foundation and footing pads What most people worry about "is the slab"..... but your footings are much larger and stout where the initial framing begins. Dont load the slab with weight and dont drive on it for 7 days is rule of thumb

Well its raining now. Looks like it will be an uphill battle to get the roof on. Worked pretty hard this weekend and am realizing "I am old" ---NOT Getting Old-----Like I always say. It was muggy all weekend and that definately took it out of me A special Thanks to Kevin, Andrew and Michael for helping lift those huge walls. Didn't realize how tall it was going to end up.

Tom: I'm confused a bit... I see what appears to be a header or lintel... is it an LVL or a glulam? If so, is this for a garage door or some huge plate-glass window, or...? On your original floor diagram, it doesn't seem apparent... K

Kenni, It is a header for a garage door that I will "not" be putting in. I wanted the shell of the building to be built as a shop or garage for resale down the road. After I get some of the interior leaves built I will close it in. But for now it is great access to get large materials inside. And another reason for pictures and permits is to let the buyer (way down the road) see the shell and know it was constructed properly. And can be converted back into a garage or shop. Tom

Great thinking, Tom!! 8) I would think that would be a best practice to follow for any studio construction involving new buildings -- frame in some headers for non-existant windows and doors. It's so easy to do and could pay big dividends later on. --Keith :mrgreen:

Tom and Keith: Tom, I almost thought that the header was for a 'future' purpose -- wish I'd said it (so that it doesn't look like I'm just trying to make it appear that way)... Great idea. And I agree with Keith's statement; that's pretty much the reason I'd like to make sure the centerbeam and such in my basement are beefed -- to account for the possibility of future vertical additions, that might require the added strength, and especially to avoid having to tear out any of the to-be finished basement and studio... Oh, in lieu of me talking to my engineer about this (she's on another vacay!), does anyone know if a switch from a rafter/joist system to trusses in a roof require the outer bearing walls to be beefed up? Just curious, although it would seem that the outer walls might take about the same load either way?? (tension along the grain of the ceiling joists prevent the outward lateral movement and dropping in pitch of the rafters, and a center bearing wall is there to keep the joists in place, i.e., horizontal and perpendicular, but isn't directly taking any roof loads?) Tom, I would presume that you would be using trusses for the roof, or are you framing rafters and ceiling joists... K

sharward wrote:

Great thinking, Tom!! 8) I would think that would be a best practice to follow for any studio construction involving new buildings -- frame in some headers for non-existant windows and doors. It's so easy to do and could pay big dividends later on. --Keith :mrgreen:

Luftweg wrote:

. . . does anyone know if a switch from a rafter/joist system to trusses in a roof require the outer bearing walls to be beefed up?

I'll bet Rod does! 8)

Tom, I would presume that you would be using trusses for the roof, or are you framing rafters and ceiling joists...

Truss system The county said they had to be engineered I could not build a roof system myself. These are the pictures I used to get permits and the county guy wrote on them in red pen saying they need to be engineered and have plans on site after delivery. I am going to pay for them tomorrow just got my price. $1,547.00

Tom, I can understand the disallow to make your own trusses (I suppose unless they were submitted for engineering tests), but you mean you wouldn't even be allowed to frame-up a joist and rafter roof the old-fashioned way? Yet, trusses are reasonably priced it seems... no? I was thinking of the scissor truss myself, or even the parallel chord truss pictured below (maybe even with unequal pitches for each side)... It seems to allow a steeper vault, and deeper cavity for insulation and soffit-venting at the ends, and possibly purlins (?). The gable trusses are for the ends -- no matter what goes in the middle of the building, right...? Another question I have is whether assembled trusses can be placed in the roof 'in viva' (in other words, while the existant roof is still on -- e.g., through a gable end)... not that I'd necessarily want to do it that way, it's just a thought, as it seems it could allow protection of an old house during construction from having NO roof at all for a period of time (?). Oh, and what about steel trusses? stronger/truer? advisable? unnecessary? condensation/coldness/insulation issues? And is there any utility or desire for 'King Post' timber trusses, or is that just for post/beam or log cabin construction. K

Steve Here is a picture of the bucket your were asking about. My guy told me they weld the piece on so they can do trenches easier and smoother. better fo grading

Well we did all the grading this weekend and layed the gravel for the drive and parking. We also installed a perf pipe along the back side of the building because the slope is pretty heavy. We also installed the sewer hook up for the bathroom. Happy its all in and the big piles of dirt are now smooth. Ready to reseed. The trusses arrive on wed morn but I probably wont get the roof all on until this weekend. Then the fun can start on the inside

Tom, thanks for remembering the bucket question; that's similar to what I'd planned for mine, only I've found a way to make it removable for more aggressive digging. Truss vs. stick built roof - if anything, the stick built would exert more spreading force on bearing walls - weight differences would be very little, with the stick built likely to be heavier than the truss built since much lighter chords can be used with engineered trusses, so total roof weight bearing on the tops of the two bearing walls would probably be LESS with trusses, not more. Lookin' good, Tom - if I ever get to where I'm just a few YEARS behind, maybe I'll be able to check it out in person... Steve

TomVan

It is a header for a garage door that I will "not" be putting in.

Hi TomVan, What is the span of that header and how is it constructed. LVL, double 2X10. Thanks

Orange, Its a solid piece of fir that is 6"x12" by 20'. I cut it to 17'6" and put double 2"x6"crutches on both sides. Tom

I was hoping I wouldn't have to work too hard this morning but they couldn't get the truck and trailer up the drive. Too long. SOOO we dopped them in the front yard. They drove the truck up the street and dropped the trailer. Drove up to the studio and couldn't reach the front yard by about 7 feet. So we unbundled the trusses moved them about 15 feet by hand and then they swung them over the house and onto the studio. Whew. Broke a sweat on that one But happy to have the next step waiting for me. I think I have enough help to get the roof on this weekend. Maybe not shingled but hopefully sheeted and felt paper

That is four thousand times cooler than my famous "concrete truck rounding the corner" picture -- right up there with Stick's "HVAC lifted onto his roof with a crane" picture! Congratulations! That's must have been quite a site to see! :D --Keith :mrgreen:

Solid fir, 6 by 12... now that's a header From what I'm led to believe, a solid piece is stronger than a built-up one (say, with four 2 by 12's)... Even though an LVL of the same size and species would perhaps be stronger (but not necessarily stiffer?) than the solid member, it is nevertheless a kinda-sorta 'built-up' piece... Of course, what gives the strength is that the LVL is made under exacting conditions (hi pressure glued)... I think any 'field' lamination of pieces is automatically 'downrated', assuming the least competent technique (so, in actuality, a field laminated, built-up member COULD perhaps be as strong or maybe stronger than the solid member, but NOT by simply haphazardly gluing and screwing (need great pressure and proper adhesive/glue to ensure definite transfer of forces across the individual members) , AND all the individual members would have to be the entire length -- no staggered sections)... As far as I understood it from my engineer, when using separate pieces to make up a member -- when they are joined properly and intimately -- any defects in an individual piece, at a specific point, will be compensated for by the other pieces, and vice versa (isn't this one of the principals of plywood anyway?) -- thus making the member stronger than the sum of the individuals (Gestalt!). Anyway, what I'm getting at, is that a solid member must be without significant defects in order for it to be considered definitely better than a built-up, no? What's your ideas all? K

TomVan wrote:

Orange, Its a solid piece of fir that is 6"x12" by 20'. I cut it to 17'6" and put double 2"x6"crutches on both sides. Tom